Altering and Using Commercial Patterns

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 94, Issue 1, 15 January 1957, Page 108

Altering and Using Commercial Patterns

By

MARY HUNT,

Field Officer in Rural Sociology, Department of Agriculture, Christchurch NEARLY every woman gains a great deal of pleasure from wearing a well-fitting frock she has made herself. The need for ready-made patterns was met in the middle of the 19th century by the introduction of commercial patterns, which have made home dressmaking very much simpler. Commercial patterns are cut to fit people with standard measurements, but unfortunately many people differ from the average in one or more measurements. For this reason it is important to know how to alter patterns. Choosing the Pattern THE pattern should be chosen before the material is bought, as the style governs the amount of material needed. When a pattern is bought it should never be considered by itself, but always in relation to the individual and her needs. A pattern should be chosen which suits the figure, the personality, the material chosen, and the purpose for which the finished garment will be worn. It should be bought according to bust size, as it is easier to alter the waist line and the skirt than the bust. When it has been decided which view will be used the pattern pieces can be sorted out and those which will not be needed replaced in the envelope. All pattern markings should be clearly understood and the amounts which are allowed for seams and hems should be checked. Taking Measurements Measurements should preferably be taken over a slip, but they can be taken over a well-fitting dress with a smoothly fitting skirt and a normal waist line. If they are taken over a slip, all seam lines must be located and marked in with tailor’s chalk or a soft pencil. All measurements should be taken firmly, but not too tightly, in the way shown in Fig. 2. ' 1. Bust front and back, taken separately over the fullest part. 2. Chest width, taken 6in. down from the shoulder at the neck edge. 3. Back neck seam from one shoulder to the other. 4. Upper back width. 5. Width across the shoulder blades, taken 7in. down from the shoulder at the neck edge.

6. Blouse length at the centre front. 7. Blouse length at the centre back. 8. Blouse length over bust. 9. Blouse length over the shoulder blades. 10. Armhole depth from the shoulder seam at the neck edge to a line level with the bottom of the armhole. 11. Shoulder height, from the top of the armhole to a line level with the bottom of the armhole. 12. Under-arm length or side seam. 13. Shoulder length from the neck edge to the armhole. 14. Sleeve length, from the top of the armhole to the wrist with the arm bent.

15. Sleeve cap length from the top of the armhole to a cord tied round the arm, level with the bottom of the armhole. 16. Upper arm or sleeve width round the fullest part of the upper arm. 17. Elbow width with the arm bent. 18. Waist line: Take the front and back measurements between the side seams. 19. Hips at the fullest part. Record the distance from the waist. 20. Skirt length. All these measurements should be checked against those taken in the same positions of the pattern pieces. The bust will be measured 2in. below the bottom of the armhole on the pattern. The seams and ease on the pattern should be allowed for. Most

patterns allow 2in. ease over the front bust and lin. to 2in. at the back; 2in. to 3in. over the hips; and l|in.. in the sleeve above the elbow and lin. below. Altering the Pattern In altering the width of the pattern the difference should be divided between the front and the back, the amounts depending on the individual measurements. For instance, for a full bust more will be required in the front than in the back. 1. Increasing the width of the blouse: Cut the pattern from the waist to the shoulder parallel to the centre line as in Fig. 3A. Spread the pieces apart the required amount and pin in an extra piece of paper (Fig. 3B). Straighten the shoulder seam as shown by the dotted line.

2. To widen the bust measurement without altering the shoulder: Cut the pattern almost to the shoulder line and spread the pieces until the bust (2in. below armhole) is the . correct width (Fig. 4). If the waist measurement is increased too much, trim the side seam below the bust, as shown by the dotted line. 3. To decrease the width of the blouse: Cut the pattern in the same way as for widening, but lap > one piece over ’ the other instead of spreading (Fig. 5A and B).

Adjust the shoulder line in A and the waist line in B. 4. To increase the bust measurement and decrease the shoulder and

chest measurements: Cut the pattern as shown in Fig. 6A. The line XY is cut almost to the armhole, gin. above the bottom armhole. Lap section a over section b and pin. Spread section. c from section b (Fig. 6B). Measure the bust line on the new angle. Adjust the shoulder line, waist line, and side seams as shown by the dotted lines. 5. To lengthen the blouse: Cut the pattern below the bust line, parallel to the waist, and spread the pieces as shown in Fig. 7A. If the pattern, is

too short between the shoulder and the bust, cut and spread above thebust as shown in Fig. 78. 6. To lengthen the skirt: Add half of the required amount by cutting and spreading below the hip line and add the other half at the hem line (Fig. 8). Keep the centre front and centre back in a straight line. 7. To shorten a flared skirt: Cut the required amount from the hem line as shown by the dotted line a—b in Fig. 9A. To retain the full amount of flare cut from the hem almost to the waist line. (Fig. 9B) and spread the hem line to fit the cut-off piece, which should be pinned back over the pattern to hold it in place. Do not alter the position of the straight grain. 8. To widen the skirt: To enlarge the waist and hips cut from the hem to the waist and spread (Fig. 10A). Toenlarge the hips without altering the waist cut almost to the waist and. spread the required amount at the hips (Fig. 10B). If too much flare is

added, trim the side seam below the hip as shown by the dotted line. 9. To lengthen the sleeve: Cut the sleeve above and below the elbow and spread equal amounts (Fig. 11). Keep the straight grain line in position. 10. To widen the sleeve: Cut on the straight grain line from the shoulder almost to the wrist. Spread as shown in Fig. 12A and re-mark the straight grain line in the centre of the slash as shown by the large dots. If the wrist needs widening, spread at the bottom as well. This method increases the fullness at the top of the sleeve. I Widen a short sleeve in the same way, by cutting and spreading as in Fig. 128.

11. To widen the sleeve without altering the sleeve cap: Cut off the sleeve cap at a—in Fig. 13. Cut from the top to the bottom of the lower part and spread. Replace the sleeve cap. When the sleeve is

being fitted it will be necessary to ease it a little under the arm. Extra width may be needed in the sleeve cap and not the lower sleeve. 12. To decrease the width of the sleeve: Draw two cutting lines through the sleeve parallel to the straight grain l|in. each side of the top shoulder. Lap the pieces over equal amounts, taking care not to make the sleeve too narrow. Draw in the new top-of-sleeve line (Fig. 14). 13. To give extra width over the elbow: Draw a cutting line from top to bottom of the sleeve pattern parallel to the straight grain. Draw another at the elbow at right angles to the first (Fig. 15). Spread b and c from a as shown, allowing lin. fullness. Draw in a good elbow curve. Checking the Pattern Before cutting the material check the altered pattern carefully to see that seam and grain lines are in the correct position, that centre front and centre back lines are straight, and that sufficient ease has been allowed in all parts. Make sure that all pattern markings are understood. Preparing the Material If the material is not guaranteed shrink proof, it is always advisable to shrink it before cutting. Time spent at this period will not be wasted, as it will prevent the finished garment from shrinking and becoming unwearable after the first wash. When materials for washing frocks are being bought it is advisable to make sure that they are washable and colour fast.

Cotton, linen, and rayon can be dipped in cold or luke-warm water and hung out to drip, but the material should not be wrung out. It depends on the material whether it should be ironed while still damp or left to dry. To shrink woollen material it can be rolled up in a damp sheet and left overnight. It is then pressed on the wrong side with a cloth until it is nearly dry. The iron must not be pushed backward and forward over the material. The material should be left flat until it is dry. Laying out the Pattern for Cutting To assist laying out the pattern on the material a cutting guide is provided with the pattern. All pieces should be placed in position before cutting is started. Care is necessary in laying the pattern pieces on the straight grain of the material.

All checks and stripes must be matched on the seam lines. Matched patterns should always be tacked firmly to avoid slipping when sewing. If the material has a nap or one-way design, it should be in the same direction on all pieces. The layout must be checked and the pieces pinned down round the edges before the material is cut. It is advisable to cut all notches outward and not inward as marked on the pattern. When all the pieces are cut out construction markings must be transferred on to the material with tailor’s tacks, pins, or tailor’s chalk. Tacking and fitting can then be begun, care being taken to tack all close fitting parts firmly to get a true fit. The sewing guide provided with the pattern will give the best procedure.

Washing Leather Gloves

WASHABLE leather gloves of all grades will retain much of their original appearance and shape if a few simple rules are followed when they are being cleaned. First make sure that the gloves are labelled washable, hogskin and chamois skin being examples of washable glove leathers. An old and wellknown firm of glovers recommends washing such gloves in mild soap suds, using a mild, neutral soap or soap flakes. Soapless detergents remove too much grease'from the skin, resulting in a loss of suppleness and a feeling of harshness. The water should be tepid, never hot, as heat hardens and shrinks even the best of leathers. The gloves are completely immersed in the suds and are squeezed gently but thoroughly to remove the dirt. Any very dirty spots may have a few dry soap flakes rubbed in with the finger tips, but scrubbing with a brush is definitely not recommended. The bristles would score the skin surface and contribute unnecessarily to wear.

When the gloves are cl should be well rinsed in several changes of warm water, as contrary to popular belief, soap allowed to dry on leather does not improve the feel or prolong the life of gloves. The gloves should be gently pulled into shape and excess moisture patted out with a towel. They can be dried flat on a towel, placed on glove stretchers (wire frames shaped like gloves), or pinned on a line, but they should new be dried in bright sunlight, whit ~]d probably result in harden" ' fldarkening of the leather. W gloves are nearly dry gently rv. .nd work the skin until it feels soft and supple. A little lanolin cream first rubbed into the hands may be beneficial, especially if the leather feels at all harsh or excessively dry. { —BETTY M. JOHNSTON, Field Officer in Rural Sociology, Department of Agriculture, Wellington

Red Cabbage

I) ED cabbage is usually served cold as a pickle, but it can be used equally successfully served hot, making a colourful, sweet - sour accompanim ent for many meat dishes, particularly pork, veal, tongue, duck, or goose. It will lose its colour unless cooked with an acid, so vinegar and apples are used to retain this. The following recipe comes from Europe and red cabbage prepared this way will be popular either with a main course or for a tea or luncheon dish served with mashed potato and bacon. Recipe 1 small red cabbage Salt and pepper (or half a large 2 tablespoons of one) brown sugar 2 cooking apples, 1 cup of vinegar peeled and chopped 1 clove of garlic 3 or 4 cloves finely chopped Pinch of nutmeg Butter or other fat 2 rashers of bacon for frying . Method Shred the cabbage finely. Melt the butter and fry the garlic and bacon

in it for a few minutes. Add the shredded cabbage. Mix well. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well again. Cover the saucepan with a tight fitting lid and simmer until the cabbage is tender (about 1| hours). More vinegar can be added if necessary to prevent the mixture burning on the bottom of the saucepan.

—ELEANOR COUSTON,

Field Officer in Rural Sociology, Department of Agriculture, Christchurch