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New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 91, Issue 6, 15 December 1955, Page 611

varieties often do well. Grown under good conditions dwarf beans come into bearing in about 8 to 10 weeks. Late January sowing in most districts should be in warm, sheltered situations, for even relatively light frosts stop the development of beans. Though beans grow in a fairly wide range of soils, they need a constant moisture supply. The soil should be well worked' before sowing and a friable, well-drained loam, reasonably supplied with organic matter suits the crop well. On poorly drained soils plants become yellow, due to death of some of the roots and consequently are weakened, particularly if the weather is wet or if they are frequently irrigated. Flowers of beans grown where temperature changes are sudden or on soils that dry out rapidly frequently drop off or fail to set or the young pods become malformed; they may curl or hook or even wither and die. Beans are not usually regarded as gross feeders, and generally on reasonably fertile soils only moderate fertiliser applications are necessary. On many of the richer soils that are well supplied with nitrogen, dressings of superphosphate alone at' about 2oz. to a square yard may give satisfactory results, though on poorer soils a complete fertiliser is usually advisable. As beans are not deep rooted water should be given if conditions are dry, as otherwise the plants may be slow in developing. Seed is best sown about 2in. deep in the bottom of a trench taken out with a hoe about 2in. deep. January sowings in dry weather should preferably be made a little deeper than early sowings. Rows should be 24in. to 30in. wide. Good varieties include The Prince and Tendergreen. Carrots Carrots are high yielding and usually easy to grow where the soil is fertile, but to obtain a succession in most districts several sowings have to be made. The housewife usually prefers young, medium-sized carrots, though it has been proved that grown under the same conditions, large carrots contain as much sugar and usually no more fibre proportionally than small ones, though there is considerable variation in the quality of different varieties of carrots. In most districts January is the latest that seed can be sown to produce a crop before winter and in the colder southern districts December sowing is often preferred. Late autumn (March or April) sowing to provide carrots for spring use is not advisable where winter conditions are cold enough to check growth severely. Even in favourable northern districts raised beds are usually an advantage at that time and a warm, sunny situation is necessary. In general, late autumn sowing in most districts is

rather risky and to ensure a continuous supply of roots throughout the year reliance should be placed on early spring and summer sowings. Types Carrots are available in great range of sizes and shapes and in shades of colour from yellowish white to deep orange-red. The stump-rooted or intermediate types are usually preferred, as they are easily dug yet large enough for convenient handling without being wasteful in preparation for the table. Short varieties are usually grown mainly for early or very late crops. They are also usually regarded as being especially suited to very shallow soils and to heavy, retentive soils where pulling is difficult. The long varieties are usually much more difficult to dig, but when. established are likely to be better adapted to dry conditions, as the fleshy part of the taproot is in the cooler, moist soil of the lower levels, though the fibrous feeding roots of both types range deeply. Seed should be sown about Jin. deep in rows 12in. to 15in. apart. In light or free-working soil thinning of most varieties is unnecessary if the seed is sown thinly. In heavier soils which tend to compact, or if large roots are grown, plants can be thinned to 2in. to 4in. apart. Good varieties include

Taranaki Strong Top and Red Cored Chantenay. Crops for Winter and Spring Use The main or late crop or a successional planting of celery can now be made as advised in the October “Journal”. Late autumn or winter greens such as broccoli (winter cauliflower), brussels sprouts, kale, savoy cabbage, and leeks should also be set out by the end of the month, though planting may be delayed a little longer in favoured situations where the autumn is mild enough to permit the plants to develop before winter checks growth. Though their capacity for withstanding dry conditions varies a good deal (celery, for instance, must be kept reasonably moist, but kale will withstand some dryness), adequate moisture is essential for good growth and fine quality in all these crops. Celeriac Celeriac or turnip-rooted celery is a good substitute for celery and takes less time and much less trouble to grow. It has a turnip-like root with a characteristic celery flavour. The roots mainly are used; they may be boiled, used in stews, or sliced -and eaten raw as a substitute for celery

in salads. Even the leaf stalk can be used when it has developed well. Plants may be set out now, but as celeriac is not as well known as celery, few seedsmen sell plants, though most sell seed. Because it is very hardy, does not require to be blanched, and succeeds on a wide range of rich, moist, well-drained soils, celeriac deserves to be more extensively grown by home gardeners who have a liking for the flavour of celery. Seed is usually sown jin. to Jin. deep in rows 15in. apart when the ground has warmed in late September or October, though a sowing can be made in January where conditions are favourable. Plants can now be thinned to or set out 6in. to Bin? apart in rows 18in. apart. Plants should not be set out deeply and should be liberally watered in dry weather. In very dry situations plants should be set out in shallow trenches to facilitate watering. Plants should be set out in a rich soil so that they make vigorous, continuous growth. During cultivation side shoots should be removed and the soil dragged away from the bulbous root, which should be kept trimmed of all suckers, as they tend to detract from its shapely development. In districts which experience repeated severe frosts the roots can be lightly earthed up in autumn for protection, but lifting and storing are unnecessary except in heavy, poorly drained soil in exposed situations. Varieties include Celeriac and Giant Smooth Prague.

Lettuce Where a succession of lettuce is desired seed in January is best sown in the situation where the crop is to mature. Though lettuce, like such subjects as cabbage, beets, and tomato, transplants readily, its ability to withstand transplanting depends on several factors. In such plants damaged and destroyed roots are normally replaced quickly by new growth, but this depends on the ability of the roots to absorb water readily, and the relative ability to absorb water depends in turn on the amount of suberin or corky covering on the roots; the thicker or more distinct the covering is the slower the absorption will be. Other factors such as the reserve of food in the plant are, however, also likely to be important. In January, when conditions are very . dry, the check of transplanting, even if the work is done with the greatest care, is likely to be so severe that sowing in the place where the plants are to mature is preferable. Lettuce thrives in cool, moist, welldrained soils and should be grown quickly or it tends to be tough and bitter. Seed should be sown thinly Jin. deep in rows 12in. apart. The soil should be cultivated to a very fine tilth and it should be rich in organic matter.

Good varieties for districts where conditions are hot include Great Lakes and Imperial 456. Where summer heat is more moderate almost any of the popular summer varieties, for example, Neapolitan (New York, Webbs Wonderful) or Success, are likely to give a satisfactory crop. Onions Weed control is particularly important where onions have not yet reached maturity. Weeds not only use up available plant food but when conditions are damp tend to create an environment unfavourable to the ripening of the bulbs. Though , many onion crops are ready for harvesting in January, those that were planted late or are . still growing well should be kept free of weeds and pests and diseases to induce them to grow to maximum size. Peas In most districts January is the latest month for sowing peas which .will mature before winter. In the cooler districts a quick-maturing variety should be chosen and in most southern districts it is advisable to sow early in the month. Peas thrive in cool but not cold conditions, and a moist, deeply cultivated, well-drained soil containing adequate humus is best. Soil preparation should be thorough. The ground should be deeply dug and where necessary organic material such as compost or farmyard manure should be incorporated, preferably some time before sowing, though peas usually do best following a crop that was well manured with organic and inorganic manure. The addition of superphosphate at loz. to 2oz. per square yard has proved beneficial on many of the heavier soils that have been kept in good condition by adequate manuring with organic material or by the digging in of green crops, but on the lighter soils a complete fertiliser is likely to give better results. Only moderate fertiliser applications are advised on soils in reasonably good condition. Too-heavy manuring, particularly with nitrogenous organic manures, tends to promote excessive vegetative or straw growth and makes the crop more liable to disease. Lime is essential on most soils and . can be supplied by .an annual dressing of 3oz. to 4oz. of carbonate of lime per square yard. Seed Sowing Seed should be sown in V-shaped or broad, flat drills usually drawn out with the hoe. Drills should be 2in. to 3in. deep, except where conditions are hot and dry, when they should be considerably deeper so that, though the seed should not be covered with more than 2in. of soil, the roots will be well ; down in the cooler and moister soil of the lower levels. This is very important where conditions are dry or i

where heavy wind is likely, as the plants can to some extent be gradually earthed up the stems as they develop. Dwarf varieties should require no other support. Protection of newly emerged peas against birds is essential in some districts, though birds are mainly troublesome in early spring, when food is scarce and is lacking in variety. Pea guards made of wire netting are most effective, provided the ends are blocked, but they should be removed before the peas become entangled in the wire. There are numerous other methods of protection, but their effectiveness depends on thoroughness of application and other factors. Spraying with bitter substances such as an infusion of alum or quassia in water (with soap as a spreader) or dusting the rows with sawdust, lime,

sulphur, or superphosphate gives varying degrees of protection. Cotton stretched . over the shoots is also effective if a number of strands, which may be criss-crossed or stretched in parallel lines,, are used. Varieties Most seed catalogues give a list of varieties with heights and the approximate number of days each variety requires to mature. Popular varieties include the quicker-maturing varieties Little Marvel and William Massey and the intermediate varieties Victory Freezer, Green Crop, and Greenfeast. Shallots The food value of the shallot is stated to be not less than that of the onion, and considering the simplicity

of its culture it is rather surprising that it is not more commonly grown in New Zealand. Most crops have attained optimum development by January and water should then be withheld and the bulbs permitted to dry off. If shallots are carefully harvested when properly dry and then stored in a cool place, they should keep until the "following spring. Proper drying and sorting over of the bulbs before storage are important. Bulbs that have been fed with excessive quantities of nitrogenous manures are difficult to harden off and should be kept for short storage; damaged bulbs should be used at once or destroyed. Sweet Corn Sweet corn bears separate male and female flowers, the tassel being the male inflorescence and the ear the female. Pollination normally takes place as soon as the silks appear and development of the cob should be rapid thereafter; the edible stage is usually reached 2 to 4 weeks later according to temperature, usually when the tassel has just withered.

Maturity is commonly tested by thumbnail pressure. The young grains are first watery inside, then milky, then doughy, and finally the “dent” stage is reached, when the grains are too hard to be palatable. Cobs should be harvested with a gentle jerk or cut with a sharp knife when the milky part of the grain is beginning to thicken but is still milky. In very exposed situations it is advisable to stake sweet corn, but in most situations earthing up of the stems will provide all the support necessary. Suckers often develop, but there is no evidence that their removal promotes earliness or increases the number or weight of the ears on the stem. Swedes and Turnips In northern districts where conditions are not too dry and a reasonably long growing season is assured seed of swede turnips can still be sown as advised in the October “Journal”. Swedes are high yielding and usually considered richer in plant food than ordinary turnips and are especially useful during winter. To be of good quality turnips, like radish, should be

grown quickly. Soil for them should be well drained but moist and rich in humus and cultivated to a fine tilth. The crop can be grown on most garden soils, but a light loam is preferable. Superphosphate has given good results on many agricultural soils, though a complete fertiliser is likely to be most satisfactory on many of the less fertile, well-worked home garden soils. In most southern districts or in areas where adequate soil moisture can be maintained January is a good time to sow turnips. Elsewhere sowing is often delayed until cooler or more moist conditions are assured. Good varieties include Purple Top, White Milan, Purple Prince, and Golden Ball. A variety such as Golden Ball is often chosen for December to March sowing, because yellow varieties usually stand longer under adverse conditions than the white sorts. Seed should be sown thinly jin. deep in rows 12in. apart and plants later thinned to 3in. to 4in. apart. AH photographs by Green and Hahn.