Root Crops in the Home Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 89, Issue 4, 15 October 1954, Page 349

Root Crops in the Home Garden

DY thoughtful planning of crop rotations and successions the home gardener can avoid having cabbages, cauliflowers, and the like maturing in excessive quantities at one time, with shortages at other seasons. Spreading of planting and hence of maturity dates will help with crops of this nature. Root crops on the other hand can be harvested over a long period by use of the ground as the storage medium. In the first part of this article the growing of root crops is discussed by B. P. Coleman, Horticultural Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Auckland. The section on routine work for November is by W. G. Crawford, Horticultural Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Oamaru.

ROOT crops play a valuable part in the garden programme and because they are easy to grow and are practically constantly available, they may be planted in considerable quantity. The aim should be to have root vegetables of some kind all the year round. Soils and Manures Most root crops grow best in deep, friable, well-drained soils high in humus content but not acid. Fresh organic material not fully decomposed is a disadvantage, because it tends to encourage forking of the roots. Rich soils or those which have been heavily manured for a previous crop very often produce good root crops without the addition of more fertiliser. Nevertheless, provided that the land is reasonably well drained and can be deeply and thoroughly cultivated, roots can be grown quite satisfactorily in a wide range of soil types. Where it seems necessary to use fertilisers, and many soils will need them, the following balanced base mixture may be used at from 2oz. to 4oz. per square yard: 9 parts by weight of superphosphate, 10 . parts of bonedust, and 1 part of sulphate (or muriate) of potash. Suitable readymixed garden fertilisers are also available from seedsmen. Lime may be used at from 2oz. to Boz. per square yard according to the nature of the soil. A light dusting of nitrate of soda after the rows have been thinned may also be desirable. .

Cultivation and Care of Crops

Land should be thoroughly and deeply cultivated for all root vegetables, especially crops such as long-rooted carrots and parsnips, and the surface soil should be worked to a fine tilth for the seed. If fertilisers or lime are used, they. may be broadcast and worked into the soil or applied along the rows, provided they do not come into direct contact with seeds or plants. Drills jin. deep are suitable in normal circumstances for the seed of most root vegetables, but seed may be sown a little deeper if the soil is dry. If the surface soil is inclined to harden or cake, it is an advantage to sow a few radish or turnip seeds with those of carrots or parsnips, as the first two germinate quickly and produce strong seedlings which break the soil surface for the weaker carrots or parsnips. The early germinating seedlings also serve as markers until the seedlings of the main crop become established, when the markers should be pulled out. Thinning should be done before the seedlings are more than about 2in. high. Final spacings will vary from about 2in. apart for radishes and small carrot varieties to about

6in. apart for large parsnips or swedes. Early thinning gives the roots the best chance to develop good size and shape. Weeding between the plants is best done by hand, but between the rows the work can be done more quickly with a hoe. It is particularly important to keep weeds suppressed until the vegetable seedlings are . very strongly established, but it is always easier to keep weeds under control by fairly frequent attention while they are small. Shallow cultivation will keep weeds down and deep working is . undesirable because it is likely to injure the . vegetable roots. Selective weedicides are available for larger gardens and save a great deal of work, but they are not generally worth, while for small plots. Some are unsuitable for use within 6 to 8 weeks of harvesting, because they may cause tainting of the vegetables. Carrots Carrots are the most popular and important of the root crops. The following varieties are recommended: — Long types: These are suitable for deep, easily worked soils. . Varieties: James Intermediate and Morses Bunching. Medium types: These are the most suitable for average soil and climate.. Varieties: Chantenay and Manchester Table. Short types: These produce smaller crops but mature quickly and are thus suitable for early or very late sowing. Varieties: Early Scarlet Horn, French Forcing, and Oxheart (usually sold as Guerande). Carrots prefer a limed soil that is well drained but not subject to serious drying out. In most districts seed should be sown from September to

January, but earlier and later sowings may be made where the climate is mild. ■ Main diseases and pests: Carrot rust fly, aphides, leaf spot, and eelworm (see. page 351 for control measures). Parsnips Parsnips are a valuable vegetable for winter harvesting, and in fact their flavour is improved after light frosts. If the ground is reasonably well drained, parsnips left where they have grown will remain sound for many weeks after reaching maturity and consequently do not require special storage facilities. The variety Hollow Crown is probably the best to plant in most home gardens. ■ Parsnips have a long growing season and are usually grown from seed sown about November or December. They mature in autumn and winter. They do best in deep soils. Main diseases and pests: Rust fly, aphides, leaf spot, and eelworm (see page 351 if or control measures). Beetroot Beetroot may be grown quickly and easily, and successional sowings from early spring 'to late autumn are desirable. ; Recommended varieties are Detroit Red, Early Wonder, and Obelisk. The last is a longer rooted type. Beetroot grow well in almost all soil types, but need a well-limed soil. Though beetroot are usually grown from seed, seedlings are not difficult to transplant if set out in moist soil. Beetroot are of the best quality when harvested before reaching full size. Main diseases and pests: Leaf spot and leaf rust (see page 351 for control measures).

Turnips The principal value of turnips is their rapid growth and early maturity, especially for spring sowings for the months when other vegetables are scarce. Recommended varieties are White Stone, Early White Milan, Milan Purple Top, and the slower growing Golden Ball. Turnips must be grown quickly without check and should be harvested before reaching full size. They are not satisfactory in hot weather, because they must have an even and adequate supply of moisture to keep them growing quickly. Main diseases and pests: White butterfly and diamond backed moth caterpillars and aphides (see page 351 for control measures). Swedes The best quality swedes are those harvested in late autumn and winter after temperatures have fallen. The varieties recommended are the medium sized Laing’s Garden and Superlative. . Swedes prefer a well-limed soil. Seed should be sown from November to early February for late crops. Earlier sowings mature when ample supplies of more popular vegetables are ready and in any case lack the quality of late-harvested swedes. Main diseases and pests: As for turnips, but also boron deficiency. Radishes Radishes, which are popular for salads, are at their best in spring, but may be grown all through the warm weather. There are many varieties, of which the following are good: French Breakfast, White Icicle, and Long Scarlet.

A variety of a larger type is Chinese Winter. Radishes must be grown quickly and without check and must be harvested as soon as they are large enough, as quality deteriorates quickly. They prefer rich, moist soil, but will do quite well in many types of soil if it is well prepared. They are more difficult to grow in hot weather. Salsify Salsify (or oyster plant) is one of the less commonly grown roots. Its season is much: the same as that of the parsnip, though the roots may be dug and used before they are fully mature. Though a biennial, the plant is grown from seed and treated as an annual. The soil for this crop -must be well drained. If any roots are ' left over after winter, boxes or pots may be placed over the crowns to blanch the flowering shoots, which may then be used like asparagus. Black Salsify The flavour of black salsify is sweeter than that of salsify and it is preferred by some, but it has the disadvantage . that the root must be soaked before cooking to remove a bitter taste. The plants may be grown for a second season to increase the size of the roots. The leaves may be used in salads. Cultural treatment is the same as for salsify. Horse Radish Horse radish is used as a condiment, but is comparatively seldom grown in home gardens. If not kept under control, it can become a troublesome weed. Horse radish is propagated by division of crowns or by root cuttings. The best cuttings are- about- Jin. in diameter, 2in. to Bin. long, and taken from either tips or crowns of roots. Intermediate cuttings are less satisfactory.

Cuttings should be planted almost horizontally after side roots have been removed. The best time for planting is August. The plants may be kept for two or three seasons, but to keep this vegetable under control it is best to treat it as an annual. Spanish Oyster Plant The Spanish oyster plant (or golden thistle) has a prickly leaf, which is some disadvantage, and a flavour between parsnips and salsify. The edible roots are lighter in colour and larger than those of salsify and the yield is double that of the latter, which to some extent compensates for the prickly leaves. This plant may be grown from seed sown in spring or by division of crowns. Soil and culture are as for salsify. Diseases and Pests The table below gives the quantities of the various specifics for controlling common pests and diseases of root crops.

Work for November With < the better weather likely from now on, plant growth will no doubt be more rapid, but the same conditions favour the rapid development of insect pests and diseases. Control measures are linked very definitely • with good gardening . practices, because though spraying is in itself most necessary, attention to garden sanitation is also important. All crop remnants should be collected as soon as possible after the edible portion is harvested and either composted or dug into the soil. Long grass or weedy patches in the vicinity

of the garden should be cleaned up, as many injurious insects thrive in this cover. Only good quality seed and strong, stocky, healthy plants should be used. A system of crop rotation should be adopted as far as possible. Weak, sickly plants are much more susceptible to attacks of diseases and pests than are healthy ones. To keep plants healthy they should be supplied with as much plant nutrient as required and in the correct proportions for proper development. If this is possible, the plant will make vigorous growth and will be better able to withstand or offset disease and insect attacks throughout the season. However, regardless of what precautions are taken pests and diseases are apt to be troublesome at certain times of the year. Growing crops should be examined periodically and control measures applied immediately insect pests or diseases appear. They can become serious in a short time if allowed to go unchecked, and for this reason gardeners should have on hand sufficient spray materials to meet anv emergency. v Cultivation The hoe should :. be kept going between growing crops. Small weeds are easily killed, but large weeds are more difficult to control. Surface cultivation for weed control is all that is necessary. Deep cultivation close 'to crops injures feeding roots that are near the surface. The main object of

cultivation is to destroy weeds, which use plant nutrients and soil moisture needed by the growing crops. Thinning It is a common practice to sow vegetable seeds fairly thickly so that there will be an even stand along the row and to allow for possible poor germination. Under these circumstances thinning out seedlings so that the crop will grow evenly and fast is very necessary. Thinning should be done as early as possible after seedlings have reached the true-leaf stage. Spacing of the crop should be sufficient to allow for full plant development. Harvested Crops Where a crop has already been harvested and the land used for it is required for winter cropping with brassicas, preparations should be put in hand. The ground should be turned over and limed at an early date. If time permits, a green crop, preferably a legume, which will add considerably to the nitrogen supply in the soil, can be sown for digging in later. Sowings Marrows, squash, and pumpkins can be sown in all districts toward the middle of November. .Several good varieties of each are available and the following are among those giving consistently good results: — J Pumpkin: Crown, Triamble, and Queensland Blue. Squash: Red Warren and Golden Hubbard. Marrow: Long White and Green Trailing. For smaller gardens Green Bush is very suitable. Cabbages: Sowings of Savoy Drumhead and Savoy Omega can be made this month to provide plants for setting out during early January. Cauliflowers: To provide plants for setting out in the second week in

January sowings should be made now of varieties maturing at different times. This will give a continuity throughout winter. . Several good varieties are available, but only those which do well locally should be sown. Cucumbers: Seed can be sown in Cucumbers: Seed can be sown m the open or plants set out from a hot-

bed as soon as danger of frost is past. Good varieties include White Spine, Long Prickly, Moneymaker, and Crystal Apple. Beans: Dwarf and climber beans may be sown from now on, but where late frosts are likely some protection should be provided. Good varieties of dwarf beans are Canadian Wonder and The Prince; Scarlet Runner and Fardenlosa are popular climber varieties. Peas, carrots, and beetroot: Small successional sowings may be made throughout November. Plantings Potatoes: Though the season is well advanced by November, main-crop potatoes may still be set out, provided this is done soon. Good varieties include Arran Chief, Aucklander Short Top, Inverness Favourite, and Dakota. Kumaras: Kumaras are grown mainly in mild North Island districts and plantings should be completed as early as possible. Good varieties are New Zealand Red and New Zealand Pink. Tomatoes may be planted in all districts throughout New Zealand during November. Good varieties include Moneymaker, Carters Sunrise, Potentate, and Stoners Prolific. Lettuces: Small sowings may be made throughout the season, but during November summer varieties, such as Great Lakes and Neapolitan, should be selected. Heading photograph by Sparrow.

CONTROL MEASURES FOR DISEASES AND PESTS OF ROOT CROPS Disease or pest Specific Quantity , Nicotine sulphate .. .. 7 teaspoonfuls to 4 gallons of water or H.E.T.P. .. ..4 teaspoonfuls to 4 gallons of water Aphides or T.E.P.P. . . .. 2 teaspoonfuls to 4 gallons of water (If nicotine sulphate is used, soft soap should be added; soap should not be used with the other spray materials mentioned) Carrot leaf spot i Bordeaux mixture .. 4oz. of copper sulphate and soz. of hydrated Parsnip leaf spot .or Certified copper com- lime to 4 gallons of water ; Beetroot leaf spot > pound .. .. .. 3oz. to 4 gallons of water Beetroot leaf rust Lime sulphur plus colloidal Beetroot leaf rust sulphur .. .. .. 3J fl. oz. plus 1J fl. oz. to 4 gallons of water Caterpillars of . D.D.T. dusting powder .. Dust on to plants white butterfly and diamond- or D.D.T. 50 per cent. backed moth wettable powder .. loz. to 4 gallons of water '■ ‘fj.' rnrrnt rust flv No effective control measures known, but dusting seed with lindane before carrot rust ry sowing may give partial protection No control except by soil sterilisation with D.D. or ’ chloropicrin, which is Eelworm not a h va y s practicable and on which advice should be sought if necessary 0111 from the nearest office of the Horticulture Division of the Department of Agriculture Apply loz. to each 10 sq. yds. of garden before Boron deficiency Borax .. . : .. sowing or planting. One application should • be effective for several years To control several pests, combinations of these spray materials may be used, but it is better to use nicotine sulphate rather than H.E.T.P. or T.E.P.P. in combination with Bordeaux mixture. '■ ; ■ ■ Nicotine sulphate, H.E.T.P., and T.E.P.P. are poisonous and must be kept out of reach of children. If the materials come in. contact with Hie operator’s skin, they should be washed off promptly with plenty of water. Operators should not smoke or eat while handling these materials.