Draperies and Curtains

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 87, Issue 3, 15 September 1953, Page 281

Draperies and Curtains

By

MOLLY MACPHERSON,

Field Officer in Rural Sociology,

Department of Agriculture, Auckland and curtains are an important investment in both time and money. Therefore careful planning and workmanship are necessary from the time of choosing the fabric until the sewing and pressing are done and the draperies and curtains are hung. THERE is a growing tendency to simplify window treatments, and save in exceptional cases the rich, heavy draperies with interlinings and ornamental valances are giving way to lighter fabrics, which are more hygienic, easier to make up, and easier to keep clean. Aesthetically curtains are necessary to frame a window and to give a unity between walls and windows; they are necessary for the more practical purposes of giving privacy, preventing glare without excluding light, and sometimes to correct or obscure bad proportions, ugly woodwork, or an ugly outlook. Choosing the Fabric It is possible to buy pre-shrunk material for curtains or draperies. If the material is not pre-shrunk, it is wise to wash it and thus shrink it before cutting it or to allow sufficient material for shrinkage when cutting. The extra allowance may be turned into the hem or may form a tuck at the heading or hem until the curtain is washed. The colour fastness of the fabric is also important, and many materials carry this guarantee, sometimes on the label and sometimes on the selvedge. There are several points to consider when fabrics for curtains and draperies are being chosen. For long, narrow rooms: The aim is to make narrow walls look wider and long walls look shorter. If the window is on the narrow wall, the size of the design and the colour of the fabric do not want to be too eye-catching thus emphasising the narrow wall and the length of the

room. If the window is on the long wall, the choice of design and colour may be bolder, which will help to disguise the length of the wall and the narrowness of the room. For rooms with low ceilings the aim is to create an illusion of height. Floor-length curtains and , draperies appear to add height to a room. If the curtains hang straight, the effect of heightening is still greater. A large design in the fabric has a dwarfing effect on the wall and horizontal stripes reduce the apparent height of the room (as do deep pelmets) by carrying the eye across instead of up and down. Cool colours such as blue and green give appearance of more space. For rooms with high ceilings the aim is to bring the ceiling “down into the room”. Bold patterns and splashy designs are in proportion to a high-ceilinged room. With stripes, horizontal stripes are preferable, as they appear to cut the height of a wall, and deep valances and pelmets break the height of a wall. Small rooms: The aim is to make the rooms look as large as possible. Simple, straight-hanging curtains are best. Any distracting elements such as cross effects, ruffles, and valances tend to make a room seem smaller. The design in the fabric should be in proportion to the size of the room. Large patterns tend to overshadow a small room. Stripes will make a room seem higher or wider, whichever way the stripes are used. Plain-coloured draperies do not “break up” the wall expanse, and therefore make a room seem larger, particularly when a plain colour similar to the wall colour is used. Too many colours in a small room are distracting, whereas different tones of one colour (one tone may be used for the curtains) will suggest spaciousness and need not be dull. Cool colours give apparent spaciousness and warm colours have the opposite effect and make a room appear cosier, but the choice of colours will be governed by other colours in the room. If patterned material is chosen, the pattern should harmonise with other patterns and colours in the room so that the over-all effect is well balanced in colour and pattern and the room has not an overwhelming amount of pattern or different patterns, whether plain, floral, striped, or geometrical.

Type of Fabric The type of fabric is important. For a cosy effect fabrics for draperies should be. rough textured or gaily printed. The glass curtains may be of sheer rayon fabrics, provided they are full and ruffled. To achieve a cool and airy effect fabrics for draperies in cool colours need to be smooth textured and feel cool and to have, through texture or pattern, the effect of airiness; sometimes draperies may be eliminated and curtains only used. On patterned fabrics a widely spaced design gives an appearance of coolness. The glass curtains need to be light and sheer. Both draperies and curtains should be simple in pattern and style. - For a formal and conservative room the fabrics for draperies and curtains should be quiet and dignified .in pattern and generally of satin, brocade, damask, velveteen, or faille. The style generally should be heavy lined draperies in rich fabrics to floor length. The glass curtains need to be simple, formal, and in keeping with the draperies. For a casual, informal room the fabric looks well if it is patterned or dull textured or has a novelty weave. The style should never be stiff and formal. Plain styles can look attractive and ruffles are suitable. In informal rooms unlined draperies may be used without glass curtains and often sill length is preferable. An informal room should be colourful, but in keeping with a definite colour scheme in the room. Lengths There are three proper lengths at which curtains and draperies may be hung: sill length, apron length, and floor length (see Figs. 1 and 2). Sill or apron lengths are used generally in informal living and dining rooms and in most bedrooms. Floor-length draperies are more formal. Never hang curtains or draperies. half-way between sill length and floor length.

Styles -- ' - Tailored curtains and draperies hang straight to whichever length is preferred. They require approximately a lin. heading and a hem in proportion (ljin. to 3in.) to their length (see Fig. 1). Tie-back curtains and draperies: With this style the tie-back raises the bottom of the curtain or drapery, but if an extra l|in. is added to the proposed curtain length, the curtain or drapery will drape attractively to the proper length (see Fig. 2) when tied back. Tier curtains or cottage curtains are double hung at the window (see Fig. 3), and hang straight, covering the whole of the window pane. When measurements are being taken for

these curtains material has to be allowed for a heading and a hem on each tier. Cross-over glass curtains may be fashioned to run on one rod and not two as is usually thought necessary (see Fig. 4). To fashion these curtains the two pieces of material for the curtains are placed over one another at an angle as in Fig. 5. The heading and seam ' allowances are folded down and sewn with two rows of stitching so that both curtains are attached at the top. The top outside corners of the curtains are cut off as is shown in Fig. 5. Calculating Amount of Material For draperies which are to be lined measure the finished length of both drapery and the lining and allow an

extra l|in. for the rod slot and Ijin. for the heading and seam allowance and the usual 2 to 3in. for the hems in both drapery and lining. In a large-patterned material further allowance must be made for matching the pattern in each pair of curtains. Measuring the Width Measure the length of the rod where the curtains will be hung. This will be the width of the window frame, unless it is desired to give a narrow window a wider appearance (see Fig. 6, in which the measurement is AB). Curtains look best if they measure altogether H or 2 times the width of the rod to give a pleasing fullness. Avoid a skimpy appearance which can result from economising on the amount allowed for the width and fullness. Cross-over curtains are an exception, as they are of very sheer material, and should be 3 to 4 times the length of the rod to give sufficient fullness. Draperies require the full width of the material, or 36 to 40in. width for each side of the average window. For very large windows 48in. wide material may be needed. To avoid a skimpy appearance with draperies that are to be pulled across the window and used instead of blinds 2 to 3 times the width of the rod should be allowed. Measuring the Length Figs. 1 and 2 show where to measure for length for each particular style (A to B, C, or D). To this measurement add 3in. for the rod slot, 2in. for the heading, and 2 to 3in. for the hem. If the material is not preshrunk, allow an extra inch per yard for possible shrinkage. Making Curtains 1. Before the material is cut draw a thread and cut on the thread line. If the fabric is not cut on a thread line, the curtains will ripple and pull and it . will be difficult to get the hems straight. If the edge cut on the thread line is not straigni, the fabric can be pulled on the true diagonal until the cut edge is on the straight.

2. Cut the draperies or curtains on a large table or on a clean floor to allow plenty of room to lay the fabric flat. 3. Cut the required lengths for the curtains and cut away all the selvedges. The selvedges are more tightly woven than the rest of the fabric, and often with laundering or cleaning they will tighten up even more. 4. Make the side hems before the lower hems and headings. The side hems may be double or single and lin. is a good finished width. Use a long machine stitch (10 to 12 stitches per inch) with a loose tension. This will prevent puckering of a delicate fabric and allow for possible shrinkage of the thread when the curtain is laundered. 5. Turn up the hem allowance and stitch in the same way as the side hems.

6. Make a hem on the top of the curtain in the same way as the lower hem. An inch from the top sew another line of stitching to form the rod slot and a lin. heading (see Fig. 7). 7. After all hems have been pressed rods may be inserted and the curtains hung and arranged in place with attractive folds. Making Draperies Unlined draperies are usually made from washable fabrics and the making methods are the same as for curtains. However, draperies hang better if they are lined and it is advisable to have linings where the drapery material is expensive, as lining will protect the draperies from dust and sun fading. Making Lined Draperies 1. Draw a thread and cut the edge of the material on the straight. Again the fabric can be pulled if the drawn thread edge is not on the straight. 2. Place the fabric so that it lies flat for cutting. Cut one side drapery. 3. Cut the other side drapery (or the number that are required), matching the fabric pattern if necessary so that any patterns in the fabric will be on the same levels when the draperies are hung. 4. Cut away all the selvedges and sew the side hems. 5. Measure for the bottom hem. Fold, press, and sew with mitred corners. Weights to make the drapery hang better may be inserted at this stage. 6. Make the lining narrower and shorter than the drapery so that the lining is invisible from the right side when the drapery is hung. Allow for turnings on the lining, but cut it so that the hemmed lining will meet the side and bottom hems of the drapery as in Fig. 8. 7. Cut away the selvedges and stitch the side and bottom hems. 8. Attach the lining to the drapery at the top by turning drapery and lining right sides together and stitching both together at the top.

9. Turn the drapery right side out. Stitch through the drapery and the lining lin. down to form the heading and again IJin. down to form the rod slot. 10. Attach the sides of the lining to the sides of the drapery with slip stitches or occasional stitches. Allow the bottom hem of the lining to hang loosely. ■ Pleated Curtains or Draperies The methods for. making pleated curtains or draperies are as described for draperies, except, that the rod slot is not made. .: ,’r ; 1. Decide the amount of material to allow for each pleat (usually 3 to 4in.). Plan the space between the pleats so that they appear at regular intervals. 2. Sew the pleats as in Fig. 9A to the depth of the heading and rod allowance. These will be flat or knife pleats. ' ;■ Pinch or French pleat: Make the pleats as for knife pleats (Fig. 9A). Fold each pleat in three parts, and crease. Sew the pleats together at the base of. the sewn part, using firm over and over stitches (Fig. 9B). Allow the pleat to flare open at the top. Cartridge pleats: Make smaller pleats than French pleats, either grouped or spaced evenly across the width of the drapery. Stitch each pleat the depth of the heading and rod slot allowance. Then insert wooden dowelling or rolled card to round out the pleat (Fig. 90. The dowelling or card is removed before draperies are dry cleaned or washed. To hang curtains and draperies which have pleats, rings or hooks may be attached to the wrong side of the hanging. Rings or hooks may be used with all curtains or draperies in which case the rod slot need not be allowed for in measuring or making. Valance Frills Often windows have attractive wooden pelmets which are better left

uncovered and require no valance frill for the top of the curtains and draperies. ' - - Though frills at the top of curtains and draperies are not as popular as formerly, there are times when valance frills look most attractive. They may be gathered or pleated, depending on the style of the curtain, the pleated

valance being more dignified and formal, though the gathered ones are quicker to make. The valance is hung on an extra rod completely across the curtains and draperies at the top of the window. Extra material must be allowed when the window is measured up for the quantity of material for curtains or draperies. £

Buttering Bread for Sandwiches

IN food preparation. there are many little tricks for saving time, and one which few people seem to know is the quickest way to butter bread for sandwiches. Day-old bread is best for spreading, and for efficiency and speed both butter and filling should be the right consistency. To soften the butter cut it into cubes, stand it in a warm place, and cream it well. Never allow the butter to melt, as this produces an oily rather than a smooth, creamy texture. Use a thick, flat plate for creaming on to save dipping into a bowl when buttering. ; Savoury fillings can be softened with salad dressing or with white, anchovy, or tomato sauce. However, it is in the spreading that many movements are wasted, and for those who must make sandwiches daily a little practice with the following technique will prove well worth while.

1. Choose a knife with a comfortable handle and a straight, rather blunt edge. 2. Use a good-sized board or bench for working on. 3. Leave bread in piles of about eight to ten slices, and butter on to the pile. 4. Take sufficient softened butter on to the knife blade 1 for one slice of bread. With one stroke spread it thickly down the right hand edge of the bread, then with a circular movement, and using the full length of the blade, sweep it over the remainder of the slice. Remove the buttered slice from the pile with the left hand. This saves many small movements and consequently reduces time and labour.

—ELEANOR COUSTON,

Field Officer in Rural Sociology, Department of Agriculture, Timaru