Broad Beans

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 84, Issue 3, 15 March 1952, Page 217

Broad Beans

By

A. G. KEN NELLY,

Vegetable Instructor, Department of

Agriculture, Dunedin

“THOUGH broad beans are less generally appreciated, perhaps ■ because of their strong flavour, than dwarf or runner beans, they have a number of advantages over most other kinds of bean. They are easily grown, hardy, of fairly good food value, and can be 'grown to mature at a time when in most gardens fresh, vegetables are in short supply and lacking in variety; in reasonably favourable conditions most varieties can be relied on to produce a good crop with very little attention. THE broad bean (Vicia faba L.) is an annual belonging A to a different genus from the runner or the dwarf bean and unlike them is hardy, making good growth in cool weather. It has been cultivated since very ancient times. A limiting factor in its culture is its intolerance of hot, dry conditions, and therefore main sowings are made in late autumn. Soil, Manure, and Cultivation Broad beans do not require special soil, but it is not advisable to sow them in light soil that tends to dry out. They do well in fairly heavy, moist, well-drained soils that have been thoroughly cultivated and into which has been worked, if the soil lacks organic matter, a moderate amount of material such as compost or well-rotted farmyard manure. The principal plant nutrient required on most soils is phosphoric acid, which can be supplied by standard superphosphate mix or by bone manure, though on soils such as those in many home gardens that have been cultivated for many years without a ■ . ..•

balanced manurial programme being followed, a complete fertiliser containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potash is likely to give best results. Apart from their nutrient value, phosphates have a stimulating effect on the nitrogen-fixing bacteria. Broad beans require only a small amount of nitrogen. A mixture of 1 part of sulphate of ammonia, 4 parts of standard superphosphate mix, and 1 part of sulphate or muriate of potash, or ■ alternatively 3 parts of blood and bone, 2 parts of standard superphosphate mix, and 1 part of sulphate or muriate of potash worked in at the rate of 2 to 3oz. to the square yard (commercially about 4 to Bcwt. to the acre),, according to the fertility of the soil, will give good results on most soils that have been cultivated for many years. Standard superphosphate mix alone may give satisfactory results on new soils or soils that have been well dressed with balanced fertilisers for nrevi <5 r-on? ZT ST, previous crops fairly ?n^ S i- are tolerant of th acid-alkaline range (pH), nnnHWnSc a Vn h^ e V XC f SSIVe l y acid conditions, and in moderate, or heavynot k2L?+i tri r S ff ow -n ™ I P ost soil J h? JnnS 2 ed Y ll im P r °Y ad rL a? ,hn g carbonate ° + f h ™ e at the vTh ffi mI, + io 4 0Z ?? WT squa nll G a °i 1 12cwt. to the acre). it is best worked in some time before sowing Apart from weed control, beans should require little attention when young, but it is usually advisable in winter or early spring when the weather is boisterous to draw a little soil against the stems of autumn-sown plants to support them. In the home garden tall-growing varieties can be stopped when they are about 30 to 36m. high by pinching out the tops, ibis encourages the plant to develop sturdy growth and is often sufficient to check an attack of black aphis in

its early stages, particularly if the aphides’ natural enemies such as lace- . wing flies, ladybirds, and their larvae are numerous. In many gardens where tall varieties are grown it is advisable to support the plants as they develop or as they heavy with pods O e “-more strings run along the sides of rows and tied to stakes at intervals of 5 or will save the plants from being oiown over. , % w : nn „?,, . , , + . Beans sown early m autumn do not necessarily yield' pods earlier than those sown in late autumn or early winter, tor though the plants may make good growth m the late autumn and early winter, they are likely particularly where, winters are fairly severe, de danaa S ed and checked hy disease or by boisterous weather. rhe earliest flowers often fail to set because they are produced at a tune of unfavourable soil conditions and sudden extreme temperature changes. Spring sowing should not be delayed too long, as the crop is liable to be reduced if it matures in the hot, dry conditions of summer Broad beans are best set 2 to 3in. deep, preferably with a trowel, and 4 to 6in. apart in the bottom of a drill about 3in. deep in double rows 10 to 12n . apart, with each double row not j ess than 26in apart. Commercially the seed can be dropped in t o a drill drawn or ploughed out about 4 to sin. deep and the soil can then be worked back to cover it 2 to 3in. deep. Single rows are sometimes preferred; they should be 15 to 18in. apart. Germination is usually good, but in the home garden a few extra seed can be sown at the ends of rows and later , transplanted for filling in gaps; the young plants should be transplanted as early , as possible. Seed varies in size,, but a little less than a quart of seed will sow about 50ft. of double row. About

2J . bushels are required to sow an acre. Germination can be speeded by soaking the seed for about 12 . hours before sowing. L j \z . •• ■•••<■• types and Varieties ■’ T „ • t f h d bpari arp grown in Ne yp Zealand> the broad . podded or Windsor type and the longpodded type. The broad-podded type bas rea tively short, broad pods usually containing about 3 to 5 large seeds. It is represented by varieties such as Broad Windsor, Giant Windsor, and Harlington Windsor. Long Pod and Mammoth Long Pod are examples of the long-podded type,. varieties of which may produce pods up ‘to 16in. long, though usually they are about 5 to 9in. on . and contain about 4 to 7 seeds. The Windsor type is usually considered to be of superior flavour, but t he i on g_ podded beans are hardier, yield more heavily, and are usually £ arlier „ „ , , , varieties are also sold u Small-podded varieties are also sold by some seedsmen. They may be tall or dwarf. The tall varieties, for example Tall Magazan, are low yieldm and . are not recommended. Dwarf varieties, however, are well worth growing, particularly in small' gardens or m exposed situations. They are also useful for 'sowing in ’ January, where conditions are not. too hot and dry (or even m February where the growing period is .long enough), to mature before / winter. They are mainly classed as fan-podded and may be from about 9 to 15in. high. The pods contain 2 to about 4 small seeds and are usually attached in fan form, The foliage is small, often fairly dark, and the internodes are very short, Examples of the type are Coles Early Dwarf and Dwarf Gem. . ' Broad , beans are also grouped according to whether the seeds are. white bi green..’ Many consider that the green - seeded kinds are more tender and tasty

than the white. There are greenseeded and white-seeded kinds in the Windsor, long-podded, and smallpodded groups. Red-seeded varieties were once fairly common, but they are not now listed by seedsmen. Harvesting and Marketing In the home garden harvesting can be begun as soon as the first pods are half grown. Commercial growers usually start harvesting when the first pods are well filled but the seeds still soft. The crop should be gone over once or twice a week. Picking is easier if the plants are well spaced. Under favourable conditions the longpodded varieties can be expected to yield 2 to 2J tons of mature pods to the acre. Marketing practices vary somewhat according to local markets, but broad beans are commonly sold in apple boxes; sugar bags are also used, particularly where the produce has to travel long distances or to be railed. The market demand is usually limited and influenced by the supply of fresh peas, spring cabbage, and cauliflower. Seed Saving Because broad beans are usually grown to mature at a time favourable for seed-ripening outdoors, pods can be left to dry on the plants, though the crop is likely to be bigger, because the plants will thus be encouraged to continue bearing, if the pods are harvested as they mature (that is as soon as the spongy, felt-like down on the inside of the pod has disappeared). Allowing the pods to dry on the plant is simpler and most growers obtain sufficient seed for their needs by leaving only the last few pods to dry. Bean seed should be dried thoroughly and stored in airy, reasonably dry conditions such as obtain in well-con-structed sheds or ventilated cellars. Seed remains viable for from 3 to 8 years according to storage conditions. If the pods are not dry at harvesting, they should be spread on open-mesh material in dry, airy conditions. When dry they should be shelled; most of the seed is then readily shed in handling. Only clean, unmarked seed should be kept for sowing. An acre of broad beans should yield about 12 to 15cwt. of seed.

To prevent infestation by weevils, clean seed can be stored in stout muslin bags or dusted with a 2 per cent. D.D.T. dust. D.D.T. dust will also protect slightly infested seed from further infestation. The dust should be mixed thoroughly with the seed at the rate of 2oz. to a bushel. Copper or mercury dusts, which are available as proprietary lines, will also prevent infestation if applied according to the manufacturers’ directions. Copper or mercury dusts also give some protection to newly sown seed against soilborne disease, though in that respect they are not as effective as an organic non-metallic fungicidal seed dust (tetrachloro-para-benzoquinone) sold in New Zealand under two different trade names and which has been certified by the Plant Diseases Division of the . Department of Scientific and Industrial Research for the treatment of pea seed for the prevention of preemergence damping-off or seed rot.

The dusts mentioned are poisonous and should not be inhaled and the skin should be washed as soon as possible after contact with them.

It is not commonly known that the immature pods of broad beans are delicious and may be eaten whole if they are sliced in the way usually adopted for preparing runner beans for cooking; young broad beans are quite tasty used raw in salads if they are shelled and the seeds skinned. Skinning is not difficult and with the seedcoat removed the beans are sweet and tender. Pests and Diseases The following are pests and diseases which affect broad beans: — Black Aphis Black aphis (Aphis rumicis), commonly known to gardeners as black fly or plant lice, is a common pest of broad beans. Infestation is usually confined at first to the young, tender growth at the tops of plants, and spring-sown plants are affected worst, as the growth on them is usually more tender than that on plants that have over-wintered. If the plants are tall enough and the aphis is noticed while infestation is. light, it can often be destroyed by pinching out the tender growth at the top of the plant. Aphis infestation can be controlled by either a H.E.T.P. (Hexaethyl tetraphosphate) or nicotine sulphate spray at a strength of 1 :800 (1 fl. oz. to 5 gallons of water). To be fully effective nicotine sulphate spray requires an alkaline substance, such as soap dissolved in water, and should be applied on a hot, still day. Chocolate Spot or Bean Blight Broad beans have tender, easily damaged foliage which reacts by the development of reddish spots or stains to rubbing or similar superficial injury that may be caused by insect pests or diseases. Two parasitic fungi cause superficially similar chocolate-coloured spotting or “blight” on broad beans. The commonest injury is caused by the fungous disease Botrytis cinerea Fr., which frequently attacks overwintering broad beans. Where conditions favour it, botrytis may be very destructive and cause extensive spotting, blotching, or defoliation. The chocolate-coloured markings on the leaves, petioles, and stems of plants may be superficial or may penetrate some distance and are commonly found on plants that have been subjected to severe winter weather. Botrytis is a common cause of non-setting, as infected flowers usually rot .and fall. Its spread is* favoured by cool, moist weather. Phosphate and potash deficiency in the soil renders plants more subject to the disease, particularly if the crop is dense and aeration poor and if the soil is poorly drained. A Bordeaux spray at a strength of 3: 4 : 50 is of value in combating the disease where it is likely to become epidemic. Spraying is rarely necessary, as the disease is largely influenced by weather conditions; as the weather improves the plants usually, develop new, healthy growth and overcome most of the adverse effects of the disease.

The second type of spotting commonly called bean blight is due to the fungous disease Ascochyta ' fdbae (Speg.). It is characterised by the

spots having greyish centres ana minute pustular fruiting bodies in the central area. Control consists of the use of clean seed, good drainage, long rotations, and the destruction of rubbish. Frost may also cause reddish dis coloration of the stem bases. Rust The fungous disease rust {Uromyces fabae (Pers.) De Bary) is characterised by small, dark brown, dusty raised spots (pustules) on the leaves, leaf stalks, and on the stems. On the leaves the spots are often characterised by & halo of slightly lighter green than the remainder of the leaf. The dusty appearance of the spots is due to the production of large numbers of spores of the fungus. Infection results, according to its severity, in reduced cropping, stunting, or, rarely, the death of plants. The disease is difficult to control, but its severity can be reduced by applying at 2- or 3-weekly intervals a spray made of 4 fl. oz. of lime sulphur, 1 fl. oz. of colloidal sulphur, and 4 gallons of water. Sclerotinia Disease Sclerotinia scierotiorum (Lib) Mass, is a fungous disease characterised by the development of copious white fluffy mycelium and later of comparatively large black sclerotia or resting bodies, often inside the stems. The disease commonly attacks the main stems, usually near the base, causing them to rot and plants to wilt and die. Seriously affected plants should be removed and burnt; if they are left, the resting bodies which develop constitute a source of infection for subsequent crops. Crop rotation, good drainage, aeration, and hygiene are the most important factors in control of the disease. Wilt Disease Wilt (Fusarium sp.) may cause yellowing of the leaves and wilting and death of plants due to blockage of the conductive tissues of the lower stem& and main roots. Moisture early assists the development of the disease and later dry conditions hasten the death of plants. There is no practical control of the disease in the home garden, as it will live indefinitely in the soil. Rotation should be practised and peas, which are also subject to the disease, should not be sown in infested areas.

New Sheepyards Bulletin

SHEEP farmers are always very interested is methods which facilitate the yarding of sheep, and as an efficient design of sheepdrafting yard is one of the greatest aids in this work, the Department’ of Agriculture has published recently Bulletin No. 353, “Design and Construction of Sheep-drafting Yards”.

The bulletin deals with all aspects of yard layout, emphasising the importance of a good site and good drainage. A section on construction materials, giving the advantages and disadvantages of concrete compared with wood, is included, and different designs of fences and gates are described and clearly shown in illustrations and drawings. The pens and branding and drafting ■ races are . fully dealt with, as is the incorporation of efficient foot-rot troughs and baths in the general yard layout. A feature of the publication is the six detailed plans of yards of different sizes, ranging from one for handling about 250 sheep to a large circular one which can deal with 2000 or more animals. The text accompanying each ; plan gives details of material quantities and costs. The bulletin is available free at any of the Department’s offices throughout the country.