Feather-weight Wool Fabrics for Underwear

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 83, Issue 4, 15 October 1951, Page 320

Feather-weight Wool Fabrics for Underwear

\A/OOL has travelled far since the days of grand- ” ’ mother's severely practical flannel underwear, and some people will be surprised when they see and feel the smooth, delicate textures of the new featherweight wool fabrics. Designers have found inspiration in these beautiful materials, and at many overseas fashion shows displays of wool underclothes, lingerie, and negligee in new sheer wool muslins, chiffons, and laces have stolen much of the limelight. The wool retains all its natural virtues of health and protection, its comfort and fit, its easy tailoring and washability, yet is so finely spun as to be in some cases almost transparent.

THE new fine wools confounded the unknowing ones who thought that wool lacked “glamour”, but their real importance lies in the fact that beauty and delicacy can now be combined with health qualities known to be essential in underwear. The most important clothing of all to health, in fact, is probably that next to the skin.

Wool keeps warmth in and cold out better than any other textile material, for not only does heat or cold pass through wool very slowly, but wool underwear provides a sort of natural “air conditioning” because of the large amount of air

entrapped in the porous fabric. . Wool and air together form the best known defence against chills, because they isolate the body from the treachery of the weather and keep its temperature constant. Absorbent and Elastic People perspire not only when they exert themselves, but to an often-un-noticeable degree all the time. With wool underwear perspiration moisture is removed instantly from the skin and absorbed into the inner structure of the wool fibre, so that the fabric remains dry, warm, and comfortable. Wool can absorb up to 30 per cent, of its own weight of moisture without

becoming damp. Once absorbed, the moisture is allowed to evaporate only by degrees, so that the wearer is not subjected to a sudden reduction of temperature. The old idea that wool underwear was something to be worn only in winter has been exploded. In summer, it is even more important that perspiration should be taken care of healthily, and cool, open-texture wool fabrics give the essential protection with a minimum of weight. Scientists have discovered that, while wool gives protection against the sun’s heat rays, it freely transmits the health-giving ultra-violet rays.

In contrast to other textile fibres, wool is springy and elastic, and these qualities are unimpaired by perspiration. That gives wool underwear its comfort, as it shapes itself to the figure but does not cling to it, gives gracefully, does not ruck up, and allows freedom of movement. The natural crimp in the fibre ensures healthy ventilation, preventing the fabric from lying flat against the skin, even when wet. There is always a cushion of air between the body and the fabric, which gives the skin breathing space and helps keep out damp ana cold. f

Unaffected by Good Washing Underclothes have to be washed more often than most garments, and their softness, comfort, and good fit must not be left behind in the washing water. Wool takes kindly to water if given reasonable care, losing none of its virtues even with repeated washing. The shrinkage problem, also, is now a thing of the past with new methods of control which should soon be extended to every wool undergarment.

The large amount of air held in wool fabric is mainly the result of the fibre’s elasticity and serrated structure. This elasticity is not affected by water, so that wet finishing or laundering makes little difference to the amount of warmth-giving air in the fabric.