The Home Garden In October

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 83, Issue 3, 15 September 1951, Page 164

The Home Garden In October

By

H. P. THOMAS,

Vegetable Instructor, Department of Agriculture, Wanganui

WITH the approach of warmer weather renewed interest is created in home garden activities in October. Initial or successional sowings of most hardy kinds of vegetables may now be made, but small, regular sowings are advocated to avoid producing more vegetables than can be used when the crops reach maturity. Where there is little likelihood of late frosts seeds of half-hardy vegetables may be sown outdoors in warm positions. Tomato and kumara plants and main-crop potatoes may. be set out where conditions are favourable. . In the North Island frost-tender plants raised under glass last month may be planted out, but some protection for several weeks is advised.

CAUTION should be exercised with all frost-tender subjects, and experience should be the main guide in this respect. Early provision should be made for autumn and winter greens by making small sowings this month, Thinning, and transplanting of earliersown crops, may be carried out, and ' gaps filled in rows previously planted, A+tpnHnn should be given regularly , Attention isnouid be given regularly to work such as moulding-up and stakmg for support, hoeing to assist aeration and weed control, manuring, and spraying to aid growing crops. Sowing, Planting, and Maintenance m , The final preparation of the soil and small general plantings Will be the main work for the month. Areas dug earlier and left exposed to the weather can be lightly forked over to bring them to a fine friable tilth suitable for sowing and planting. Initial or suecessional sowings of most hardy vegetables such as peas, carrots, beetroot, lettuce, turnip, and spinach can be made during the month. m , , , „ , „ . Toward the end of the month in central and northern districts where there is little likelihood of late frosts seed of half-hardy vegetables such as dwarf and runner beans, melon, pumpkin, squash, marrow, and cucumber may be sown outdoors in warm positions. Tomato and kumara plants may also be set out in favourable districts and additional plantings of early potatoes may be made, and secondearly or main-crop varieties planted,

In southern districts, however, Novemher may be considered early enough for the sowing and planting of these half-hardy vegetables. A start may be made for provision of late-autumn and winter supplies by making small initial sowings of savoy cabbage, broccoli (winter cauliflower), curly kale, leeks, celery, and brussels sprouts. Chokos, which are suitable for growing only in the North Island> should be set out during October, as these vegetables require a long season o f growth. Jerusalem artichokes may still be planted. Prompt attention to the earthing up of potatoes planted earlier will be necessary to protect them from late frosts or inclement weather. Thinning nf Pnr li Pr sown nronq nf n b t g t tuC e and roots mavneed attention, and Should be carried out w&ever the state of thC Sound Berndts state ™ ground p 2,., x Silver beet, lettuce, cabbage, and cauliflower plants may be transplanted seedlings are ready, and any gaps which have occurred in previous plantmgs should be filled in. Earlier-sown neas will rermire mO uldin£ un and sunnortineto Drevent Sem comSi £T contact with the so?l th 2 m conmg in 4 contact with the soil, , Supports for tomatoes and runner beans can be placed m position and the ground worked up and prepared t° r planting later in the month. A enaMZ ,, If asparagus In northern districts established beds of asparagus will now be making

growth and any weeding necessary should preferably be done by hand to avoid damaging the young shoots. Weekly applications of organic liquid manure will be beneficial at this stage. Nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia, 1 to 2oz. to 4 gallons of water, may be used if animal manure is not available. When the spears are approximately 6in. long they should be cut 2 to 3in. below the surface of the soil with a sharp, long-bladed knife. Care must be taken during cutting to see that no damage is done to adjoining growths or crown buds. ■; Even with established beds it is not advisable to cut for more than 7 or 8 weeks each season. Beans (Dwarf and Climbing) In the North Island and Nelson an early sowing of either dwarf or climbing beans may be made from mid-October to the end of the month according to . local conditions. All varieties of beans except broad beans are frost-tender and succeed only during the warmer periods of the year. Danger of frost should therefore be considered as past before seed of dwarf and climbing varieties is sown. Both climbing and dwarf beans can usually be accommodated in most gardens. The runners (climbers), particularly some of the older varieties, yield more heavily and are slightly hardier than the dwarfs and with proper attention usually bear for a longer period. The newer, stringless, climbing varieties are also comparable in flavour and quality to the dwarf varieties. However, dwarf beans have the advantages of requiring less space for development, no support other than perhaps a moulding-up, and of reaching maturity more quickly than runners. .

It is advisable to make successive sowings of dwarf beans if a continuity of supply is to be assured; most varieties of climbers will continue to bear until cut down by frosts, if the beans are picked regularly. Perennial climbing beans should be well manured before planting, because of their semi-permanency, and it is advisable to dig a trench and half fill it with compost or well-decayed animal manure before , topping off with soil. The best-known variety of runner bean is the Scarlet Runner, but other improved strains are Emperor Scarlet Runner, Princeps, Prizewinner, and Streamline. Because the scarlet runner type is a perennial it may be left in the ground for several years and will shoot again when the weather is sufficiently warm and produce pods a fortnight earlier than seed sown in spring. Sowing Beans can be grown on a wide range of soils, but a well-drained, easily worked loam with a moderate humus content is preferable. Clay soils and low-lying areas are unsuitable, as with insufficient drainage plants become yellow in wet weather and are seriously checked. However, lack of moisture at the roots during a spell of dry weather is a frequent cause of nonsetting of the flowers or check of growth of the young beans, and for that reason sandy soils or soils lacking in humus should be avoided unless a supply of moisture can be assured under such circumstances. A dressing of carbonate of lime at |lb. per square yard should be applied to soils not previously dressed. A fertiliser mixture of 1 part of superphosphate plus | part of sulphate of ammonia is recommended for beans and should be applied at the rate of 10 to 14oz. to 7yds. of row. The mixture should preferably be worked into the top 4in. of soil before sowing, but if it is lightly hoed into the surface alongside rows, a watering should then be given. Supports Where a suitable fence or trellis is not available runner or climbing beans should be provided, with supports. Single rows or double arched rows of poles or stakes (depending on whether planting is to be made on one or both sides of supports) approximately Bft. high are satisfactory. Beans may also be supported by a wire-netting fence firmly erected or by wires on a fence system with string or pea sticks running vertically from the wires. Another method is to embed 3- or 4 stakes Bft. or longer firmly in the ground 18 to 24in. apart so that they form a square or triangle and to incline them inward so that they may be tied at a point near the top.

Bean seed should be planted from 2 to 3in. deep, according to whether the soil is heavy or light. • Runner beans are usually sown sparingly so that seedlings can be thinned to from 8 to 12in. apart. If possible, rows should be 3 to 4ft. away from other vegetables. Dwarf beans may be staggered in wide rows of 2 or 3 lines with 4 to 6in. between seeds and 2ft. to 2ft. 6in. between rows. Some recommended varieties are: — s Perennial runner: Improved Scarlet Runner and Streamline. Tall or climber: Fardenlosa and Market Wonder.

Dwarf: Pale Dun, The Prince (early), Canadian Wonder (Burnley Selection), Tender Green, and Black . Valentine (main crop). Butter: Sure Crop Wax, Golden Wax, and Bountiful Wax. Lima Beans The culture of lima beans, which are fairly high in food value, is similar to that of french beans, but it is often advisable to sow the seed a little later, even though the beans require longer to mature. They are more sensitive to cold than even snap or waxpod beans and succeed only in favourable districts. Climbing and dwarf varieties are available and the beans can be shelled and cooked like broad beans or used dry in the same way as haricot beans. If they are used in the dry state, they are improved by being soaked overnight. There are dwarf and tall types of lima beans. Good dwarf varieties are Burpees Bush, Baby Fordhook, and Baby Potato; a satisfactory tall variety is King of the Garden. Edible Soya Beans z . Culture of edible soya beans is similar to that of bush lima beans. The soya bean will grow well in nearly all types of soil, but it does best in rich loams. Where plants are grown for the first time they usually make poor growth unless the seed has been inoculated. They require certain strains of bacteria not normally present in New Zealand soils, and if soya bean seed is planted in the same ground in succeeding years, there will be a marked improvement in growth. No further attention to inoculation will be necessary if soya beans are grown in the same ground at least every 3 years. A method often used in inoculating the seed consists of moistening a bushel of seed with a solution of 3oz. of glue or sugar dissolved in a quart of water and then thoroughly mixing the seed with 2 quarts of finely sifted inoculated soil. Inoculated soil may be obtained from an area where soya beans have been grown recently. Inoculated seed should be sown as soon as possible after treatment, and as strong sunlight may kill the bacteria, a dull day is best for planting. Seed should be planted 4in. apart 1| to 2in. deep in rows 24 to 30in. apart. , Varieties: For New Zealand conditions the most suitable varieties, in order of maturity, are Mandarin (100 days), Ito San (105 days), and Manchu (110 days). Beetroot Like most root crops beetroot does well in soil that has been heavily dressed with organic manure for a previous crop. The first of the successive sowings of beetroot should be made in October with the globe varieties. Cultivation should be deep and thorough, and good drainage is essential. Where the ground has been previously heavily manured a dressing of 1 part of blood and bone and 2 parts of superphosphate at. the rate of Jib. per square yard worked into the top 3in. of soil will give satisfactory results. As beetroot is sensitive to soil acidity, lime is usually necessary on soil not recently dressed. Carbonate of lime at 3 to 4oz. per square yard

and well worked in some time before sowing is normally all that is required. Care must be taken, ■. however, to see that too much lime is not applied. Seed should. be sown jin. deep in rows 12 to 15in. apart and plants later thinned to 3to sin. apart. Care should be taken when thinning is done to leave one plant only, as usually two or more grow from the same seed vessel. Good varieties are Detroit Dark Red, Crimson Globe, Derwent Globe, Egyptian Turnip Rooted, Obelisk (half long), and Maori King (long). Cabbage and Cauliflower As harvesting of autumn-planted spring cabbage should now be under way, planting from October onward must be considered. Cabbage and cauliflower plants grown from seed sown earlier can be set out 18 to 24in. . apart in rows 24 to 30in. apart. Where soils are likely to be acid a dressing of carbonate of lime at 4oz. to the square yard should be made. A fertiliser mixture composed of 2 parts of blood and bone, 1 part

of sulphate of ammonia, and -J part of sulphate of potash, all by weight, and distributed at the rate of Jib. to each 6ft. of row should give plants the stimulus necessary at this time. To avoid the possibility of burning the roots of the young plants, the fertiliser should be well mixed with the soil before planting. Varieties Plants of the following varieties of cabbage and cauliflower transplanted as soon as possible will give a succession of cutting through summer and autumn, because of their varying maturity periods. Cabbage: Golden Acre, Copenhagen Market, and Henderson’s Succession. Cauliflower: Early London or Phenomenal Early, Veitches Autumn Giant, and Phenomenal Main Crop. Carrots A successional sowing of carrots or the main crop can be sown this month. However, where the depredations of the carrot rust fly are severe infestation may be reduced if the seed of the main crop is sown in November or early December. The sowing of the main crop is sometimes deferred until late December or January if earlier sowings in the past have been seriously infested by carrot aphis. Ground that has been heavily manured for a previous crop should be selected for carrots. As with most root crops it should be well drained and deeply cultivated. Superphosphate applied at the rate of 2oz. per square yard and broadcast after digging will be beneficial on most soil which has been cleared of a crop that was heavily manured. If dry wood ashes are available, these may be broadcast over the, soil and raked in before sowing the seed. Fresh manure should not be used, as this causes misshapen or forked roots. Except in heavy soils, which consolidate and prevent expansion, carrots rarely need thinning if sown thinly. In heavy soils or where large-rooted varieties are grown plants can be thinned 4 to 6in. apart.

Seed should be sown to gin. deep in drills 12 to 15in. apart. Recommended varieties are:— Early: Early Short Horn, Early Krop, and Early Market. Main crop: Chantenay, Manchester Table, Nantes, and James’ Intermediate. Celery and Celeriac A further sowing of celery and celeriac may be made this month. If the golden self-blanching kind of celery is chosen, no time should be lost in sowing it in districts where early-

autumn frosts are experienced. The turnip-like roots of celeriac may be used for salads or cooked like other root crops. The culture of celeriac is similar to that of celery, but as celeriac is not blanched and is less exacting in its requirements, it should be grown more extensively in home gardens. Plants from seed sown now should be ready for setting out in the garden during December and January. Information on sowing and varieties of celery was given in last month’s “Journal”; Cucumber, Pumpkin, Marrow, and Melon The sowing of cucumber, pumpkin, marrow, and melon seed outdoors may be done in most districts during October, but where there is a likelihood of late frosts or inclement weather, particularly in the south, plants should be protected by using hot-caps or cloches. If the home gardener wishes to raise his own plants, sowing should be done as soon as possible and the seed containers (preferably small paper or crockery pots) placed in the warmest position. Where facilities such as a glasshouse, hot-bed, or cold, frame are not available a glassed-in porch, improvised frame, or cloches would be suitable. Young plants after attaining a suitable size should be hardened off before planting by gradual exposure to, outside conditions. Planting The recognised safe date for planting out frost-tender plants will vary from mid-October in the North Island to perhaps mid-November in the South Island. Further information on planting was given in last month’s issue of the “Journal”.

Varieties Of the many varieties the following are popular in home gardens: — Pumpkin: Ironbark, Queensland Blue, and Triamble. Squash: ■ Warren Squash (early), Green Hubbard, and Golden Hubbard (main crop). Melon: Several varieties of pie melon, watermelon, and rock melon. Marrow: Long Green Bush, Long White Bush, - and Custard Golden. Cucumber: Long (and Short) Green Prickly and Crystal Apple. Leeks Leek, seed should be sown without delay. - Leeks require a long growing period, and although very adaptable as to soil conditions, are gross, feeders . and respond well to liberal manuring, and watering. Leeks together with other winter-maturing vegetables play such an important part in ensuring a continuity of yearly supplies that they are worthy of any extra time and effort which may be needed in their initial stages of growth and establishment. Onions In most South Island districts it is customary to sow main-crop onions in September. If this has not been done, a sowing may be . made early in October. For long storage Pukekohe Longkeeper and Turbot are recommended. High-yielding varieties for more immediate use are Ailsa Craig and Giant Rocca. Parsnips As parsnips require a long season of growth, a sowing should be made in October in southern districts, but in the north sowings may be made in November or even December. Parsnips are primarily a crop for late-autumn or winter use, but they must be sown .

sufficiently early to enable them to reach full development before growth slackens in late autumn. They take at least ■ 5 months to mature and are of better flavour after being subjected to frosts, and providing the soil is well drained they will “stand” well if left in the ground during the severest winter. Parsnips are very sensitive to soil acidity and most soils where they are to be sown should be dressed with lime at 3 to 4oz. to the square yard if a dressing has not been applied the previous year. Parsnips grow well in most soils, but a deeply cultivated well-drained soil that has been liberally manured for a previous crop is best. Before sowing, superphosphate at the rate of 2oz. per square yard and, if available, dry wood ashes broadcast over the ground and raked in will benefit the crop. As parsnip seed is often difficult to germinate, it should be sown fairly thickly jin. deep in rows 18in. apart in soil that has been worked down to a fine tilth. Where difficulty is experienced with germination the following method is worth trying: Open a drill about 3in. deep and fill it with leaf mould, firm this, sow the seed, and then cover it with some 1 fine leaf mould, which should be kept fairly moist. Seedlings should be thinned 1 to 2in. apart when-they are about 2in. high, and later when the roots have become a usable size for soups and stews they can be given a final thinning to 4 to 6in. apart. . .., For show roots or very good garden specimens ground should be dug to a depth of 2ft. or more. The average home gardener finds this rather ' laborious and an alternative method is to make holes 9 to 12in. apart with a crow-bar and fill them with fine rich soil prepared after the manner of a potting compost. This soil is firmed and 4 or 5 seeds are sown in each hole.

After seeds have germinated all but one strong plant should be removed. >■ Varieties: Hollow Crown is recommended; others are Student and Model. Peas Peas should be sown every 3 weeks to obtain a continuous supply. Where possible some form of support should be given, either by wire netting, crisscrossed sticks, brushwood, or string surrounding firm supports. As the plants grow the soil surface should, be ' frequently stirred and loosened, and earthing-up should be begun when they are about 3in. high. Varieties: William Massey, Blue .Bantam, and Greenfeast (dwarf, varieties) ; Aiderman, Coronation, and Quartermaster (tall), Sugar or edible-podded peas are worth a trial where space permits. Potatoes Early-planted potatoes should be kept earthed up and all weeds should be removed. In northern districts, where early plantings are likely to be well advanced, plants should be sprayed with Bordeaux to protect them from potato blight. It may still be inadvisable to make main-crop plantings in early October in some areas, particularly in districts subject to late frosts, but generally planting of the main crop can proceed. Tubers do not need to be sprouted, but sprouting of both early and main plantings is of value, as it gives the plants an early start and in most seasons an earlier crop results. Plants from potatoes that have been greened and sprouted are at least a fortnight earlier than those from tubers not treated. Liming is rarely necessary, as the potato is tolerant of acid conditions. 1 An artificial fertiliser mixture of 3 parts of superphosphate and 1 part of sulphate of ammonia may be applied at

the rate of 6 to 12oz. to 6yds. of row, or equal parts of superphosphate and blood and bone can be used. The simplest way to plant is to open a trench about 5 to 6in. in depth and then apply the fertiliser, which should be well mixed with the soil. The tubers can be set at 12 to 18in. apart in rows 2 to 2|ft. apart. (The close planting, however, is usually only applicable to early crops.) The soil is then drawn back over the tubers, forming a shallow ridge or mould. The position of the rows should be marked with sticks at the ends, as this will allow surface cultivation to be carried out without injuring the young shoots before they appear above ground. If the tubers are large (4oz. or more), they can be cut into 2 or more sets, but each portion should have at least 2 eyes and a minimum of cut surface. Varieties: Recommended main-crop varieties are Aucklander Short Top and Arran Chief (white varieties), Dakota and King Edward (main-crop varieties favoured in the South Island), and Inverness Favourite (late white and a heavy cropper). Of late years the .. recently introduced varieties Chippewa and Sebago are accounting for a greater acreage each year. Salad Vegetables Successive sowings of lettuce, radish, spring onion, and mustard and cress should be made as required. To obtain crispness, these crops should be kept growing rapidly. Details on the cultivation of these crops and of recommended varieties were given in last month’s “Journal”. Tomatoes Tomato plants may be planted out from mid-October in most northern districts, but it will not be safe except in a few favoured areas to begin

planting outside in most southern districts until the middle of November. Most gardeners prefer to purchase plants and it is advisable to obtain these from a nurseryman who uses sterilised soil and produces stocky, well-grown specimens. If plants ' are healthy and have been properly hardened off, the foliage should be free from blemish and the base of the stems dark purple; if plants are purchased in the box and they appear rather tender, they should be hardened off gradually before being planted out, particularly if the weather is uncertain. Soil preparation should be begun early. A deeply dug, well-drained soil rich in humus and a sheltered situation which receives the' maximum amount of sunshine are best. The organic material should, however, preferably be dug in some time before planting, and an application of lime, 3 to 4oz. per square yard, should have been applied the previous autumn. Before planting, a fertiliser mixture of equal parts of superphosphate and blood and bone plus 5 per cent, of sulphate of potash should be spread along the row at the rate of Boz. to 6ft. of row and mixed into the top 6in. of soil. If stakes have not already been set out, this should be done before plants are put in to avoid possible damage to the roots later. Dwarf varieties do not require supports, but will produce -quality fruit if they are prevented from coming in contact with the soil, particularly if showery weather is experienced. Wires or long wooden slats set about 6 to Bin. on either side of the plants should give the necessary clearance from the ground. Dwarf varieties require more space than do tall ones and should be planted 3ft. apart each way. Spraying To protect tomatoes from late blight, stem borer caterpillar, and tomato worm caterpillar the following spray

should be applied at 10-day intervals from the time of planting out: Bordeaux mixture and D.D.T. prepared from 4oz. of bluestone and s|oz. of hydrated lime in 4 gallons of water, plus |oz. of D.D.T. 50 per cent, wettable powder. Copper oxychloride may be used instead of Bordeaux mixture if desired. Varieties Suitable varieties of tomatoes are:— Dwarf: South Australian Dwarf Red, Pearl Harbour, and Tatura Dwarf Globe. • . Tall: Potentate, Best of All, Market King, Supreme, and Abundance. Winter Greens Sowings of brussels sprouts, broccoli (winter cauliflower), red pickling cabbage, savoy cabbage, borecole, and sprouting broccoli should be made during October to provide a supply of greens for late autumn and winter. Sowing dates should be varied a little according to variety and district. Brussels sprouts are a delicious winter vegetable and successional crops can be grown in most districts so that they are available from early winter to August. Broccoli varieties can be chosen to spread maturity dates throughout late autumn, winter, and early spring. The season for savoy cabbage is similar to that for brussels sprouts, although they are usually grown for cutting in late autumn and winter, when the effect of frost on the mature hearts appears to be beneficial. Borecole and sprouting broccoli are very hardy and among the latest of the winter greens and should be grown more generally. It is important that most of these plants become fairly well established before winter, though with very late varieties it is not desirable for growth to be too far advanced. Seed of the vegetables mentioned should be sown J to Jin. deep in rows Ift. apart in a seed-bed rich in humus and worked to a fine tilth. With average growing conditions young plants should be ready for planting out in from 6 to 8 weeks. One advantage of raising plants is that it is possible to get a greater range of varieties than can usually be bought from seedsmen. Varieties Savoy: Continuity of supplies may be maintained by planting several varieties such as Ormskirk Early, Chieftain, Drumhead, and Omega (late) . Broccoli: Many varieties which mature from late autumn to late spring are available; examples are Michaelmas Early White, Veitches Self-pro-tecting (early), Mammoth Winter White, Snows Improved (winter), Lily White No. 2, St. Valentine (spring), and Late Queen (late spring). Brussels sprouts: Scrymger’s Giant, Giant Fillbasket, and Long Island Improved. Red or pickling cabbage: Red Dutch and Mammoth Rock Red. Borecole: Dwarf Green Curled and Tall Green Curled. Sprouting (non-heading) broccoli. Calabrese, Green Sprouting, and Purple Sprouting.

REMINDERS FOR OCTOBER Sow: Artichoke (globe), Brussels sprouts, *broccoli, beetroot, broad beans, *beans (runner and dwarf), cress, carrots, *cucumber, Cauliflower, cabbage, Celery, Celeriac, curly kale, *egg plant, kohlrabi, leek, lettuce, *melon, Carrow, mustard, onion (spring), parsley, *pumpkin, parsnip, peas, radish, spinach (summer), New Zealand spinach, silver beet, spinach beet, *squash, sweet corn, savoy cabbage, turnip, salsify, *tomato, watercress. * For northern 1 districts and where some protection from frost can be given if necessary. Plant: Artichoke (Jerusalem), asparagus (in South Island without delay), cabbage (summer and autumn), cauliflower (summer and autumn), (cucumber, (kumara, lettuce, (melon, (marrow, onion (autumn sown), (potato (second early and main crop), (pumpkin, silver beet, spinach beet, (tomato. ( Toward the end of the month in districts free from late frosts.