The Home Garden in July

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 82, Issue 6, 15 June 1951, Page 468

The Home Garden in July

By

H. P. THOMAS,

Vegetable Instructor,

Department of Agriculture, Wanganui

CAUTION should be exercised with sowing and planting in July. Except in very warm localities with good soil conditions, there is little to be gained by sowing seeds or putting out plants until August. However, frames and cloches in warm positions could now be used for seed sowing and the production of plants of lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, and silver beet for August and September plantings.

VV7HERE climatic conditions are not WHERE climatic conditions are too severe spring cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, and shallots can be

planted out in well-worked and welldrained soil in July. Seed potatoes of the early crop should be set in trays with broader or “rose” ends up and they should be stored in a light, airy, frost-free shed. Jerusalem artichoke tubers can be sorted and those suitable for seed put aside for planting as soon as the soil is in workable condition. If new rhubarb and asparagus beds have not yet been prepared, the work should be done now and planting carried out as opportunity arises. Cultivation of vacant areas or the digging in of green crops should be done whenever the state of the ground permits in preparation for spring sowing and planting. Any alterations or additions necessary to garden layout, shelter, or drainage should be finished without delay. Preparation may be made for hotbeds by gathering long, strawy stable manure and dead leaves. Stored crops should be examined and any vegetables showing signs of decay should be removed.

General Maintenance

Digging or trenching vacant ground and turning in green crops should be continued whenever the ground is in suitable condition. Woody ' garden material considered unsuitable for composting should be burnt and the ash stored in a dry place until required; wood ash exposed to rain soon loses its lime and potash content. If drainage and shelter have not been provided, it will be necessary to carry out this work as weather permits during July; otherwise a delay of a season will result. Weed growth should be cleared from neglected corners and beneath hedges, as it not

only harbours pests of many kinds, but may act as host plants for fungous and virus diseases. This work also improves the appearance of the garden. Sowing and Planting The end of the month is early enough, even in favourably situated districts, for sowing and planting, and in most gardens this work is not begun in earnest until August or even later. Seed sowing is not determined by the calendar. The type and state of the ground as well as climatic conditions must also be considered. Light, or medium soils dry out more quickly and afford more opportunities for early sowing than heavy soils. Where the soil is heavy a specially constructed seed-bed made of soil containing a high percentage of sand is an advantage if seed boxes are not available. A movable frame

placed over this outdoor seed-bed will increase its utility. . ' Where climatic and soil conditions are favourable sowings should preferably be small and limited to the comparatively hardy subjects such as broad beans, spinach, silver beet, spinach beet, spring onions, carrots, turnip, beetroot, and radish. In less-favoured districts lettuce, summer cabbage, cauliflower, and silver beet can be sown in frames or under cloches. Where cloches are used, however, it is advisable to place them in position on well-drained soil 10 to 14 days before sowing to enable the soil to warm and to some extent dry out. Hardy ' subjects such as spring cabbage and shallots can be planted out in manured and well-drained soil, and where climatic conditions are favourable lettuce and cauliflower plants can also be set out. Where soil conditions permit, new plantings of asparagus may be made toward the end of the month if sufficient preparation has been given to the bed. Rhubarb crowns which have recently been divided and put aside to develop buds may be replanted in July. As both plantings are semi-permanent, the preparation of the beds should be thorough. They should be deeply dug and organic manure such as farmyard or stable manure, and blood and bone dug in. Deep digging is desirable, particularly on heavy soils, as it improves drainage, which is important in successful production. Established rhubarb and asparagus beds should be lightly cultivated and mulched with compost or a light dressing of farmyard manure and soil if this has not already been done. Celery and leek plants should receive their final earthing up and if growth is backward, liquid manure should be applied.

Crops such as savoy cabbage, broccoli, borecole, leeks, and celery should be kept cultivated and free of weeds.

Brussels sprouts, which are naturally tall, may need supporting if growing in an exposed position. This may be done either by individual staking and tying or by supporting with light wire or heavy string attached to stakes on each side of the row. In cooler districts broccoli plants other than those of the self-protecting kind should have some of the leaves, broken or tied over the curds as they mature to protect them irom naru irosts. Asoaraaus A y , . . , , Asparagus roots may be planted toward the end of July in the North Island where the ground is in good condition and reasonably dry. Plantmg in August or even September is soon enough for home gardeners in the South Island. An open position should be selected for the bed and efficient drainage is very necessary for its well-being. Where the soil is sufficiently deep and drainage is good beds^ow ar le S pXT°oi y the U soiTand drainage is materially assisted. After preparation of the bed as advised in last month’s “Journal”, strong 1-year-old plants should be selected for planting. Application before and after nlant ins of a mixture of eoual narts of blood and bone and sunernhosnhate plus 1/20 nart“of sulphate of notash a the rate of Boz ner souare vard will benefit nilnfi net P q yard WIU benefit plantings. Allow at least 2ft. between rows and from 18in. to 2ft. between the plants, as once a bed is properly established it is likely to remain in production for 15 to 20 years. Make drills 4 to 6m. deep and wide enough to accommodate the roots when spread out to lull length. Drills should be made with a crown in the centre and sloping sides, and on these mounds the young roots set saddlewise. A covering of fine sandy soil should then be applied, taking

care that this initial covering is not more than 2in. above the top buds of the young plants.

n o S p ea rs should be taken the first year rom a planting of yearling roots, and unless the plants are very vigorous, cutting should be done very sparingly the second season. In the third season, when plants are 4 years o i d and e ll established, the bed should stand fairly heavy cutting for up to 8 weeks after which the remaini n g growth should be left to mature, Popular varieties are: Mary Washington, Martha Washington, Connovers Colossal, and Paradise. Broad Beans There are few hardier vegetables than broad beans, which if sown early, mature at a time when most vegetables are scarce and lacking in variety. If a successional supply is required or if seed has not yet been sown, a -owing may now be made.. Cultural directions were given in the home garden notes in the April issue of the Journal . Spring Cabbage Those home gardeners who prefer to grow their own cabbage plants can now sow seed of a quick-maturing v ? rl^ y . such as Golden Acre, Flower of Spring, or Enfield Market. MidJul l 1S £l bl T e / or , so ™ n ? these kinds th a rth l sla m’ £ ut m the S mn Isl T d th % y I F OU be . sown a . little earlier - Golden Acre ls a desirable summer variety with a round compact bead of 1 ? oderat ® size. , Flower + of Spring and Enfield Market are two well-known spring varieties with pointed hearts. A warm, sheltered situation with favourable soil conditions is necessary and where these conditions are lacking it is advisable to use a cold frame or well-ventilated glasshouse. Seed should be sown in boxes, and unless it is intended to transplant the young seedlings before setting them out in the garden, the boxes must not be less than 6in. deep. Use an opentextured soil with a high humus-

content and cover seed with jin. of fine soil. The seed should be sown thinly or better still spaced 2 to 3in. apart to avoid overcrowding, as the desired type of seedling for transplanting is one with well-developed roots and strong stocky stem and leaf growth. When the plants are about 4in. high they should be placed outside to harden off before being transplanted in the garden. In southern districts where winters are rather severe some growers set out plants of the Flower of Spring or pointed type of cabbage during July if soil conditions are suitable. If sturdy plants are set out, the crop often reaches maturity little later than those planted earlier. A well-drained soil is essential and if farmyard manure or compost is not available, the following mixture should be worked into the topsoil before planting: 2 parts of blood and bone, 1 part of superphosphate, and J part of sulphate or muriate of potash at 4oz. to the square yard. ■ . A dressing of Boz. of carbonate of lime to the square yard would benefit soils likely to be acid. Established Crops Whenever soil conditions allow cultivation should be continued to provide a surface mulch for crops which .were planted in autumn and early winter; if plants do not appear to be making strong growth, applications of liquid manure will assist them. When animal manure is not available sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda at loz. to 4 gallons of water may be used for making liquid manure. Cauliflowers Seed of cauliflower should still be sown in boxes. Plants of earlier-sown varieties may be set out where shelter, drainage, and weather conditions are favourable; where they are not it would be wise to delay planting. Most of the recommendations for growing cabbages apply in greater degree to cauliflowers, because the latter are

more delicate plants, and checks during growth due to dryness, severe frost, cold, or injury to the roots during transplanting are likely to result in failures. Varieties: Early varieties are Early London, Phenomenal Early, Walcheren, and All Seasons. Herbs July 'is a good time to plan the establishment or extension of the herb garden. A narrow border at the foot of a fence and beside a path where access is easy in all weather should provide sufficient space in the average garden. The soil should be deeply trenched and well manured, as many herbs in general use are likely to occupy the bed for several years. Sage, thyme, mint, parsley, and chives are most in demand, and seed or vegetative parts are obtainable from most good seedsmen. Lettuce Lettuce seed should still be . sown in boxes or frames, as it is yet too early for sowing it in the open. Cultural directions were given in last month’s “Journal”. Varieties such as Imperial 615, Neapolitan Winter Market, and All the Year Round are suitable for cool weather conditions. Potatoes Continue to set potatoes of suitable size to sprout and green as described in last month’s “Journal”. Small plantings for an early crop could be made in July, particularly in northern districts where a warm, sheltered border can be used. In addition the home gardener should be prepared to keep all top growth earthed up until danger of frost is past. Carrots, Turnips, Beetroot, Radish As soon as soil and weather conditions are favourable small sowings of carrots, turnips, beetroot, and radish can be made.

If conditions are not suitable, it is well to delay sowing, as it will be found that' sowings made a little later when conditions have improved will usually mature at least as quickly and with less loss. A light, easily worked soil is preferable for early sowings. The ground should be well drained and rich in farmyard manure or organic matter, but not recently dressed, as this induces forking of the

roots of these crops. For small sowings drainage can be improved and soil temperatures raised by making raised beds or sowing on ridges. Seed can be sown J to jin. deep according to whether the soil is heavy, moist, and cold or light, dry, and warm. Rows are usually 12in. apart, though Bin. would be enough for radish. If seed is sown thinly in well-worked, free soil, radish need not be thinned and carrots can be left until the thinnings are large enough to be used in soups and stews. Beetroot and turnips are best thinned to about 4in. apart for these sowings. Varieties v „ , „ , , . . Radish: Red and White Turnip and n v i tv /i r H 0 rn > Early Krop, and l ''minienay. n Beetroot: Egyptian Turnip Rooted and Early Wonder. _• Stone and Early wmte Milan.

Peas Where weather conditions are favourable an early sowing of peas may be made in well-drained, preferably medium to light soil. Peas repay good cultural methods. The ground should be deeply dug and enriched with organic matter. . Losses in early sowing . can be attributed to complete rotting of seed or to attacks by soilborne diseases which are favoured by the inability of the seed or young plant to make quick growth in soil which has not warmed up enough at this time of year. Peas for early sowing should be lightly coated with one of the mercury dusts, which are procurable from most seedsmen. Where better drainage is considered necessary, seed may be sown on flattopped ridges about 6in. high, but it may be sown in the usual way where soil conditions are suitable. Whether seed is sown on ridge or flat, a shallow trench should be hoed 1 to 2in. deep, according to the type of soil. The seed can be sown in zigzag fashion 2 to 3in. apart in rows spaced 20in. apart for the early dwarf varieties. One pound of seed should be sufficient for 100 ft. of row. If necessary a dressing of bonedust or superphosphate at 4oz. per 9ft. of row may be. worked into the soil where peas are to be planted. Strands of black cotton stretched over the rows about 2in. above the ground will keep birds from damaging the young seedlings. An excellent though more costly method is to cover the rows with strips of -mesh wire netting bent into arches and pegged down with wire hooks. These coverings have the added advantage of being available for use for many years. Varieties for early sowing are: William Massey, Earlicrop, Blue Bantam, and Kelvedon Wonder.

Rhubarb Established rhubarb should be cleared of weeds and given a liberal

surface dressing of farmyard manure or well-composted organic matter. If crowns have been lifted and laid aside to await the development of “buds” before being divided and replanted, they should be examined from time to time so that when they are ready they can be divided and replanted without delay. Information on the preparation and planting of a new bed was given in last month’s “Journal”. Rhubarb may be easily forced in any situation where there is moderate warmth. Usually an early variety is chosen and the plants are forced by being covered with an overturned box or barrel so that frost and, to some extent, extreme cold are excluded. The covering should be removed on warm, sunny days.

Onions

Onion plants from autumn-sown seed should now be well advanced in readiness for transplanting in August. They should be kept weed free to encourage strong, sturdy growth. The ground for the onion bed should have been thoroughly cultivated and preferably have been manured in autumn with well-rotted farmyard manure or compost. The onion requires a firm bed and for this reason cultivation should have been early to allow for consolidation of the. soil before planting. Heavy soils require less consolidation than light soils owing to their tendency to set more firmly than is desirable after heavy rain. If longkeeping bulbs are desired, it is necessary to use slow-acting fertilisers. Broadcast the following fertiliser dressing 2 to 4 weeks before planting and work it in to a depth of 6in.: Bonedust 3 to 4oz, per square yard, superphosphate 2oz. per square yard, and potash loz. per square yard. A heavy dressing of wood ash is a good substitute for the potash. A dusting of lime and soot will also be beneficial. Spring Onions A small sowing of spring onions may be made now in a sheltered part of the garden. If drainage seems to be unsatisfactory, a raised bed should be made. Seed can be broadcast and lightly covered with soil or it can be

sown fairly thickly in rows 12in. apart. The soil should be. firmed over the seed with the back of a spade. Silver Beet, Spinach Beet, Spinach Silver beet and the' closely allied spinach beet are two very suitable hardy vegetables for early sowing. The soil should be well drained and cultivated and enriched with wellrotted organic material. The area to be used for the crop will benefit by the application of a manure mixture consisting of 3 parts of superphosphate and 1 part of sulphate of ammonia (by weight) applied at the rate of 3oz. per square yard. If the soil is inclined to be acid, the application of 4oz. of lime per square yard will benefit the crops.

Outside sowing will usually be confined to specially favoured areas or to northern districts. Seed should be sown gin. deep in rows 18in. apart, and the young plants later thinned to 9in. apart. Where conditions are not favourable it is a good plan to make a sowing in a box placed in a frame to provide plants for setting out later. No time is then lost, and when the seedlings are planted out they should not be less advanced than those that were sown outside in favoured districts. Spinach: Prickly seeded spinach can be sown throughout winter in welldrained and cultivated soil that is not too heavy, provided the seedlings can establish themselves without danger of being lifted by frost. Spinach is a cool-weather vegetable and is usually one of the first subjects for early - spring sowing. The soil should be well drained and cultivated. Spinach will not tolerate acid soil conditions, and if lime , has not recently been applied, a dressing of 3 to 4oz. to the square yard should be worked into the ground before sowing. Quick growth is necessary to produce tender, succulent leaves and the crop should reach maturity in from 8 to 12 weeks. A dressing made up (by weight) of 3 parts of superphosphate and 1 part of sulphate of ammonia should be applied at 2 to 3oz. per yard of row. Weekly applications of liquid manure are beneficial. Seed should be sown sparingly gin. deep in rows Ift. apart and the plants thinned later to Bin. apart. Planting and Crop Rotation Sowing and planting of crops should be planned to get a succession of produce and also to use every square yard of ground to the best advantage for maximum yield. Consideration should be given, now to planning the forthcoming season’s production.

The mistakes of the past must be remembered and plans made to effect an improvement each succeeding, year. One of the first steps in garden planning is .to keep in a notebook an annual record of garden activities, as this will prove invaluable for future reference. A record of crops grown should be kept and tabulations made under the following headings: “Name of Vegetable and Variety”, “Date Sown”, “Date Transplanted”, “Planting Distances”, “Crop it Followed”, “Ready for Use”, “Yield”, and “Further Remarks” (weather, manure, etc.). These records will serve to assist the gardener to improve his plans from year to year and will also add to his store of information. Decide the amount of land to be allotted to each vegetable and on the plan mark it off and reserve it for that particular crop. Sow or plant each vegetable in quantities according to expected demand; some may be sown at intervals, of 2 to 3 weeks, thereby keeping up a regular supply. The following suggestions may be helpful when drawing up such a plan:— 1. Plan for continuity and variety, giving special consideration to periods when vegetables are likely to be scarce and dear. 2. Perennial crops such . as asparagus, rhubarb, herbs, etc., should be planted where they will not interfere with the cultivation or rotation programme of annual crops. 3. A few straight rows are easier to plant and cultivate than a greater number of scattered short rows or beds, and needless waste of space for paths is avoided. If small quantities of seed are to be sown and the rows are long, more than one kind of vegetable may be accommodated in the same row. 4. Do not crowd plants unless space is very limited. Close inter-cropping is rarely as satisfactory as cropping with normal spacing, which makes cultivation easy and reduces the risk of the soil consolidating. However, small quick-maturing crops such as radish, lettuce, and spinach' may be planted during the early stages of widely spaced crops such as . leeks, tomatoes, celery, and brussels sprouts. 5. Rows should run north and south if possible, as plants will then shade one another less, and so will receive more sunlight. 6. If a garden is on a slope, it is advisable to have the rows running across rather than up and down. 7. Tall crops such as sweet corn, broad and runner beans, and peas may be used for sheltering lower-growing vegetables, but this should not be overdone, because there may be excessive shading. Pumpkins, melons, and marrows, which may overrun smaller crops, should be placed where their development will not adversely affect other vegetables. ' . 8. Do not follow one crop with the same kind of crop or one of the same family. To avoid soil exhaustion and the build up of soil and plant diseases and pests rotation of crops should be practised. The art of cropping a vegetable garden to get all-the-year-round results is one of the most important phases of vegetable culture and it cannot be accomplished indefinitely without rotation of crops.

Rotational' Cropping Rotational cropping is based on several factors and the more important of these are as follows: — 1. The soil . and crops benefit because there is less opportunity for the ■ carry-over of diseases and pests. 2. There is better utilisation of available plant foods. Some plants make heavy demands upon the soil for certain elements while others are very modest in their demands. Again, other plants leave the soil richer in certain elements. 3. Varying soil levels are drawn upon in turn and conversely are rested in turn. Certain plants are deep rooting and take nourishment from the lower soil levels; others are shallow rooting and take nourishment from the higher soil levels. 4. Crop rotation plays an important part in weed control because crops of different habits, particularly the spreading kinds termed “cleaning” or “smothering” crops, are moved about from year to year. Many suggestions for crop rotations have been put forward with the same broad principles in view, but that to be described may be considered satisfactory for most home gardeners. The kind of vegetables to be grown and the system of cropping must be governed not only by the kind of soil and size of the area to be used but by personal preferences. The garden area can be divided into 4 plots, if this is considered appropriate, reserving plot 1 for permanent crops such as rhubarb, asparagus, and herbs, or for tall or rambling crops such as runner beans, pumpkins, and marrows, which need ample room because of their spreading habit. The remaining plots are for 1-year succession crops, and the 3-year plan recommended can be carried out as follows: —• Plot 2 First year: Plot 2 will consist of root crops such as carrot, parsnip, beetroot, celeriac, and salsify. Trench the ground for these crops and apply a light dressing of artificial manure only. Second year: Miscellaneous crops such as peas, beans, celery, spinach, leeks, onions, shallots, and lettuce will follow the roots. The soil will require digging only, but plenty of farmyard or organic material should be added. Artificial fertilisers should be added to the plants as they grow. Third year: The plot will consist of potatoes and numerous members of the brassica family and their varieties, for example, cabbage, cauliflower, savoy cabbage, broccoli, brussels sprouts, and kale. Again, digging is all that is required, but the soil should be enriched with farmyard or similar organic material. Plot 3 Plot 3 would in the course of the 3-year plan be cropped as follows: First year: As for second year of plot 2. Second year: As for third year of plot 2. Third year: As for first year of plot 2. Plot 4 The 3-year plan for plot 4 would be as follows: First year: As for third year of plot 2.

Second year: As for first year of plot 2. Third year: As for second year of plot 2. . If the recommended rotation is practised, each group is grown on the same site only every third year and each site is trenched once in 3 years. Crops have a change of site and plots have had the advantage of being economically maintained and properly cultivated over the period. Some gardeners may prefer to retain the system of plot rotations given, but to vary the composition as follows: — Plots: 1. Permanent crops. 2. Deep rooting crops (carrot, parsnip, beetroot). 3. Shallow-rooting crops (onion, silver beet, lettuce). / 4. Cabbage family (brassicas), cabbage, turnip swede. . In larger gardens, more divisions may be considered from the following groups: (a) Permanent crops, (b) Root crops. (c) Greens, or fibrous-rooted crops, (d) Tubers or vegetables which are stored (potatoes, kumaras, artichokes). (e) Legumes or pod-bearers, (f) Gourds (marrows and pumpkins). In very small gardens it may not be possible to change the plot and in such cases the best alternative is to change the positions of rows.

REMINDERS FOR JULY Sow: Broad ' beans, beetroot, *cabbage (spring and summer), *cauliflower, carrot, *lettuce, radish, spring onions, spinach, spinach beet, silver beet, turnip, *peas, and tomatoes (under glass for early crops). * Unless frames or cloches are used, sow only where outdoor conditions are very favourable. ' Plant: *Asparagus, cabbage (spring), *cauliflower (spring), herbs, *lettuce, onions, rhubarb, shallots, and * potatoes (a few early rows). * Plant only in favourable situations where drainage and soil conditions are good.