Brushed-wool Jumper-cardigan

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 82, Issue 6, 15 June 1951, Page 531

Brushed-wool Jumper-cardigan

KNITTING using double knitting wool and big needles is quick and easy. Though the texture of a garment made in this way is coarse, it can be softened easily by brushing the wool to raise a nap on the surface. This adds to the warmth of the garment too. A pattern for a useful jumper-cardigan, which can be worn buttoned up with a sporting skirt or which serves equally well as a cardigan worn indoors over a dress, and the process involved in brushing wool are described

in this article by

Helen Paine,

Rural Sociologist, Department of

Agriculture, Wellington.

MATERIALS required are: 17oz. of double knitting wool, 1 pair of No. 9 and 1 pair of No. 7 knitting needles, 12 . buttons, and a wire brush or a natural teasel. - Measurements are: Length from shoulder to lower edge, 20-21 in.; bust, 33-35 in.; sleeve seam, 18in. - The tension used is 6 stitches to the inch and 7 rows to the inch. Abbreviations used in the instructions are: k., knit; p., purl. The Back Using No. 9 needles, cast on 86 stitches and work a k. 1, p. 1 rib for 3|in. Change to No. 7 needles. First row: K. 2, p. 1; (k. 8, p. 1) nine times, k. 2. Second row: P. 2, k. 1; (p. 8, k. 1) nine times, p. 2. Repeat these 2 rows three times; then increase at both ends of the next row. and every following eighth row until there are 98 stitches on the needles. Care must be taken to keep the rows of ribbing in line while the knitting

is continued until the work measures Min. • Shaping the Armholes Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows, then k. 2 together at the beginning and end of the next 8 rows, when 74 stitches remain on the needle. Continue knitting, keeping the ribbing in line, until the garment measures 7in. from the beginning of the armhole shaping. Shaping the Shoulders Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 6 rows; then cast off the remaining stitches. Right Front Using No. 9 needles, cast on 42 stitches and work a k. 1, p. 1 rib for 2 rows. Third row: Make a buttonhole (k. 1, p. 1, k. 2 together and wind the wool around the needle). K. 1, p. 1 to the end of the row. Next row: K. 1, p. 1 to the end of the row. Continue the ribbing until it measures 34-in., making buttonholes lin apart. Change to

No. 7 needles, and, starting from the buttonhole edge, proceed as follows: — First row: K. 1, p. 1 three times, k. 8, p. 1 four times. Second row: K. 1, p. 8 four times, k. 1, p. 1 to the end of the row. Continue knitting these 2 rows, increasing at the underarm edge in every eighth row and making a buttonhole on the inner edge at intervals of l|in. by knitting the following row: K. 1, p. 1, k. 2 together and wind the wool around the needle. K. 1, p. 1 (k. 8, p. 1) until the end of the row. Next row: K. 1, p. 8 four times, k. 1, p. 1 three times. When there are 50 stitches on the needles stop increasing, but continue to knit until the. front measures 14in., finishing at the outside edge. Shaping the Armholes Cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next row and knit two together at the same edge of the next 8 rows until 38 stitches remain. Continue knitting until the front measures 4Jin. from the beginning' of the armhole; then start the shaping for the neck at the inner edge. , Shaping the Neck Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next row and k. 2 together at the beginning of the following 6 rows on the same edge. Now 24 stitches remain; continue knitting until the front measures 7in. from the armhole, and finish at the outer edge. Shaping the Shoulders Cast off 8 stitches at the beginning of the next 3 alternate rows. Left Front Knit the left front as for the right front, but reverse all the shapings and omit the buttonholes. Sleeves Using No. 9 needles, cast on 48 stitches. K. 1, p. 1 rib for 3in. if a

single band is desired, and if a turnedback cuff is wanted, knit rib for 4in. Change to No. 7 needles. First row: K. 1, p. 1 (k. 8, p. 1) five times, k. 1. Second row: P. 1 (k. 1, p. 8) five times, k. 1, p. 1. Continue knitting these two rows and increasing at both ends of every eighth row until there are 70 stitches on the needles. When the sleeve measures 18in. (or the required length) start the shaping for the top. Shaping Top of Sleeves Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows and k. 2 together at both ends of the following 4 rows. K. 2 together at both ends of alternate

rows until 24 stitches remain; again k. 2 together at both ends of the following 6 rows. Cast off. The neck-band is knitted after the flat pieces of the jumper have been brushed and the garment has been sewn up. Brushing Pieces of the Jumper A nap can be raised on any woollen material if the correct equipment is used, but the process is especially successful when double knitting wool is used. The loosely ■ spun yarn brushes into a soft, fluffy nap that gives the finished garment added warmth. A natural teasel or a fine wire brush and

an iron, ironing board, cloth, etc., as for making up any woollen garment, are required. Two of the teasels illustrated are heads of the cultivated variety; the hooked tips on the scales are ideal for brushing wool. The wild teasel which grows in many parts of New Zealand is not suitable, because the scale tip is long and straight. Cultivated teasels are sometimes found in Central Otago, but most are imported. The woollen mills still use natural teasels in the process of brushing materials, as no mechanical device is as efficient. If a natural teasel is unobtainable, brushing may be done effectively with a fine wire brush, though it is a longer process, requiring more patience. In either case first press the material, using a damp cloth and a warm iron. When the surface is thoroughly hot and moist brush it with the teasel until a nap is raised. The wool may be brushed in any direction, but it should be given a final brushing so that the nap raised lies in one direction and forms a smooth surface. Making up the Garment Join the shoulder seams. Sew up the sleeves, easing any fullness into the top of the armholes. Join the side and sleeve seams. Neck-band: Using No. 9 needles, pick up 28 stitches from the left front, pick up 24 stitches from the back, and 27 from the right front. First row: K. 1, p. 1 to the end of the row. (As there is an odd number of stitches, the row finishes with k. 1.) Second row: P. 1, k. 1 to the end of the row. Repeat these two rows; then make the last buttonhole. Fifth row: K. 1, p. 1, k. 2 together and wind the wool around the needle. K. 1, p. 1 to the end of the row. Continue ribbing for 5 more rows; then cast off. Darn back the threads wherever the wool has been joined and sew on the buttons.