THE HOME GARDEN IN JANUARY

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 81, Issue 6, 15 December 1950, Page 519

THE HOME GARDEN IN JANUARY

By

S. O. GILLARD,

Vegetable Instructor, Department of

Agriculture, Auckland.

WEEDING is usually one of the most important garden tasks ▼V to be undertaken in January. Probably all gardeners have experienced the heartbreak of returning from Christmas holidays to find that weeds have practically taken charge or the garden. Onceneat rows of young seedlings will have disappeared in a sea of weed . , 7 u i * i i j r wzt « t.roc growth and even older plants are choked. Where the garden was kept very free of weeds during December the havoc will not be as .great as where weeding had been less thorough, but much hard work will no doubt be necessary before order is restored. If hot, dry weather has been experienced during the Christmas period, the garden will in addition be parched and crops will suffer accordingly. Hand weeding is, usually necessary and this will be facilitated if a good watering is given the night before weeding is to be done. . W hen the soil is wet weeds may be removed more easily and with less . -hi*. damage to small plants.

WHEN the garden has been cleared d ?f ail weed growth which accufarther control of weeds °wili y be found relatively easy, because the hot sun will cause them to die rapidly after cultivation Continued weeding is necessary, 'because considerable transpiration of moisture can occur through the leaves of weeds and this can seriously deplete soil moisture during dry weather. Two further imnortant aspects of weed control are: That if weeds are allowed to seed, the weed population may be greatly increased next season, and that weeds are hosts of many pests and diseases which affect vegetables. It is soun gardening practice to keep the hoe going among growing crops. Though by January the garden should be almost filled with newly planted, growing, and maturing crops and little spare ground will be avail-

able. many traps can |°wn » planted this month. Dwarf beans, beet,’ beetroot carrots, turnips, and swedes may all be sown and savoy cabbage, brussels sprouts, and j.eeks may be planted in most districts. It is not yet too late to sow parsnips in the warmer districts and small plantings of tomatoes and sweet corn for late crops can still be made in Auckland districts free of frosts until late May. . . •j a / Liquid Manure The use of liquid manure will give a n added fillip to growing crops, and salad crops, which should be grown rapidly, especially will benefit. Liquid manure can be made easily, by suspending a quantity of animal manure in a sack in a tub of water; from 1 to 21b. of fresh animal manure per gallon of water should be sufficient. Other useful liquid manures are sulphate of

ammonia and nitrate of soda at loz. to 4 gallons of water. General work in the garden will include attention to tomato plants which require tying to supports and the removal of laterals from tomatoes. Mature potato crops should not be left in the ground after the tops have died and those still growing should be kept earthed up; the potato tuber moth may cause damage to both growing and mature crops if this is not done. The runners of kumaras should be lifted periodically to prevent them from rooting. Disease Control Many crops will require protection from insect and disease attack at this time of the year. Where late blight of tomatoes and potatoes is troublesome infection may be prevented by regular applications of Bordeaux mixture 3 : 4 : 50 or of copper oxychloride at lib. .to 20 gallons of water. Arsenate of lead 2oz. to 5 gallons of water or D.D.T. loz. to 6 gallons of water will prevent damage to tomatoes by caterpillars. To protect the young cobs of corn from attacks by the corn ear worm, D.D.T. may be applied as a spray, using loz. of wettable 50 per cent, powder to 6 gallons, or as a dust. White butterfly and diamond-backed moth are extremely troublesome in brassica crops at this time of the year and regular applications of D.D.T. will be necessary to protect the crops. Watering From early January until autumn rains commence, watering is necessary in most gardens to keep plants growing and to provide sufficient moisture to develop the crops fully.

Heading photograph by Green and Hahn Ltd.

THE HOME GARDEN IN JANUARY

Most home gardeners realise the need for supplying water to the plants, but the importance of correct application is less well understood, nor are all gardeners aware that a good deal can be done to conserve moisture in the soil and thus save much time and water. Because water becomes short in many localities in summer, . local bodies are obliged to impose restrictions, and there is a tendency to skimp watering, giving a light sprinkling over a large area. Though light watering is better than none, it is a wasteful and often almost useless way of attempting to keep plants going. In hot weather most plants get their roots down as deep as possible, trying to reach moisture well below the dried-out surface soil. A small quantity of water, which wets only the top j-in. or so of soil, reaches very few roots and therefore fails in its main objective. In addition, the topsoil is warmest, is exposed to the effects of sun and wind, and

consequently dries out very quickly. Therefore, a large proportion of the water in the top layer of soil instead of sinking in and assisting growth evaporates soon after it is applied and much of its value is lost.

Another reason why light watering is resorted to is that experience seems to suggest that frequent watering is necessary.. That is quite true when insufficient quantities are used, but less frequent and more penetrating waterings are very much more beneficial.

By giving enough water to moisten the soil to a depth of 3 or 4in. much better results' are obtained. In the first place, some reaches the roots immediately. Secondly, because the water has gone down to a greater depth, less is lost through evaporation by sun and wind. - The . soil will be cooled to some extent, thus further reducing the rate of . evaporation, and • some water is likely to penetrate a

little deeper after a few hours. Finally, watering can be done much less frequently than where light sprinklings are given. Effective watering of the whole garden takes no longer (probably less time) - than frequent sprinkling and the results are very much better. The method of working is quite simple. Instead of hurrying quickly over the whole garden at one time and then repeating the same faulty procedure at intervals of a few days, give part of the garden a thorough watering. Start before the whole area is parched and there will be no need to hurry the work unduly. If the garden is very dry, water small seedlings and shallow-rooting plants first; then go on to the hardier ones. Water part of the garden each day, or if the section is small, do some each second or third day. Work out a programme which will allow the whole area to be watered in 10 to 14 days, with perhaps an extra watering for very dry places or for newly established plants.

Mulching

Mulching vegetable plants is an advantage, as it obviates much cd the hard work of weeding and cultivating. Mulches keep the soil cool during hot weather, smother small weeds, conserve and maintain a more uniform supply of moisture for the plants, and make it possible for the roots of plants to feed in the upper 2 to 3in. of soil. Mulches are suitable for tomatoes, peppers, egg plants, celery, lettuces, and many other . crops grown during summer. Materials commonly used for mulching are grass and soft hedge clippings, straw, old hay, sawdust, or similar materials. Strawy stable manure, if procurable, also makes a good mulch and, in addition, contains readily available plant foods. Mulching materials should not be applied early in the season before the soil has warmed up sufficiently and plants are growing freely or before the garden has been cultivated to suppress the early weed growth. The amount and thickness of the mulch will depend upon the kind of material used; enough material should be. applied to prevent any weed growth from pushing through it. Three inches of straw or old hay may be necessary, but a 1 or 2in. layer of grass or hedge clippings or sawdust will be sufficient. Materials that are readily available near the garden or can be purchased at a reasonable price should be used. Protecting Very Young Seedlings One method of protecting very young seedlings is to sow seeds a little deeper in dry weather. Their roots then get down to moist soil more quickly and the tender shoots are protected to some extent when they emerge from. the seed coverings. Another method is to cover the row with sacks as soon as the seeds are sown. The sacks reduce the rate of evaporation of soil moisture and also keep the soil a little cooler. As seeds germinate very quickly and evenly under the sacks, a close watch must be kept, because the sacks should be taken away as soon as the young plants appear or seedlings will become spindly and weak.

An improvement .on the latter method is to arrange a low “tent” of sacking along the rows as illustrated on this page instead of laying sacks on the ground. If this is done, it is not quite so important to remove the covering as soon as the seedlings come through, but the “tents” should be taken away within 24 hours of that time if possible, to allow the young plants to harden properly. r A fourth method is to cover the .rows immediately after they are sown with a light mulch of fine lawn clippings, using sufficient to give complete coverage of the soil along the rows. This method is unsuitable for small seeds such as carrot and lettuce, but is excellent for stronger seedlings like peas and beans. Lettuce Lettuce is undoubtedly the most popular of the salad crops and finds a place in most home gardens, particularly this month, when crisp, fresh greens for salads are very welcome. Lettuce is a cool-weather plant and does best when day temperatures are not high and night temperatures are cool. At this time of the year it is difficult to secure firm, compact heads and the plants have a tendency to bolt to seed instead of hearting. The plants should be kept growing steadily and without any checks from dry, hot conditions, which tend to make them bolt. To keep the soil cool and moist it is a good plan to mulch the rows of lettuces with material such as lawn mowings, light hedge clippings, sawdust, or compost. As lettuce plants do not transplant satisfactorily in the hot months, it is advisable to sow seed Jin. deep where it is intended to grow the plants and thin seedlings to 6 to 9in. apart. As lettuces are subject to scorching if watered overhead in bright sunshine during hot weather, it is advisable to water them in the cool of the evening or to irrigate by using small furrows along which the water is allowed to flow between the rows of plants. Watering should cease as the plants near maturity to prevent the heads from splitting. Suitable varieties for sowing at this time of year are Great Lakes and Imperial 847 and Neapolitan and Champion Cabbage in districts where conditions are cooler.

Potatoes

In northern districts free from early frosts a small planting may be made of early-maturing potatoes such as

THE HOME GARDEN IN JANUARY

Epicure or Arran Banner. Late planting is not always successful, as much depends on the weather, but where space permits it is worth a trial. Kohl Rabi . . Kohl rabi (turnip-rooted cabbage) is grown for the turnip-like enlargement of the stem above ground. It is not commonly grown in home gardens, although it is an excellent vegetable if used before it becomes tough and stringy. For good quality, growth should be rapid and without checks. Kohl rabi may be sown from early spring to February, but January sowing is most favoured, as the crop then matures in late autumn, when other vegetables are becoming scarce. A rich garden soil will produce excellent kohlrabi.- Like cabbage it will not do well on an acid soil, and if this condition exists, it should be corrected by applying carbonate of lime at 4oz. to a square yard.

As kohlrabi does not transplant readily, it is best sown in the permanent position. Sow seed thinly jin. deep in rows 18in. apart and thin plants to 6 to Bin. apart in the rows. A fertiliser containing 2 parts of blood and bone, 1 part of superphosphate, and 1/20 part of sulphate of potash, all by weight, applied at the rate of 4oz. per square yard should be worked into the soil several days before planting. Care should be taken when cultivating to keep the earth from the heart of the plant and not to cover the bulb. The bulb-like stems should be ready for use about 4 months after the seed was sown and should be harvested for use before they are fully matured and when not . more than 3 to 4in. in diameter, .as they become coarse and of inferior quality when allowed to grow too large. Varieties: A very popular variety is White Vienna, an early dwarf which is excellent for home gardens. The bulbs are globular and very light green and the flesh is clear white, tender, and crisp. Purple Vienna takes about a week longer to mature than the white variety; the bulbs and leaves are purplish and the flesh greenish white. Peas .In most districts January is the latest month for sowing peas to mature before winter. A . quickmaturing variety should be chosen, and for southern districts sowings should be made early in the month, because although peas prefer cool conditions, they will not grow in cold weather. They do best in fertile, moist, deeply cultivated soils and usually do well after a crop that was

well manured. If the soil is poor, a mixture of equal parts by weight of blood and bone and superphosphate and 1/20 part of sulphate of potash applied at 4oz. a square yard and thoroughly worked into the soil will be beneficial. Do not be too generous with the manure, because heavy manuring, particularly with nitrogenous organic manures, tends to promote ■excessive vegetative or straw growth and makes the crop more liable to ■disease. Peas, like most vegetable crops, do not grow well on acid soils and most soils will benefit from an annual dressing of 4oz. of carbonate of lime a square yard. Drills spaced :2ft. 6in. apart should be drawn 2J to 3in. deep with a hoe . and, the peas .scattered the width of the drill; allow from 1 to 2in. between the seeds.. Dwarf varieties grown at this season of the year seldom require supports; drawing up the soil to them is usually sufficient. Suitable varieties for sowing now .are: Earlicrop, William Massey, Little Marvel, Utility, and Blue Bantam. Beetroot Though beetroot can be sown in northern districts as late as March, further south, where frosts are earlier and generally heavier, it is usually advantageous to sow early to allow time for bulb development. Beet is not particular as to soil and good crops can be grown in almost any well-worked and well-drained soil containing humus and not lacking lime. A soil that was heavily manured for a previous crop is excellent, but if plant foods are thought to be lacking, the addition of a mixture of 1 part of blood and bone, 2 parts of superphosphate, and 1/20 part of sulphate or muriate of potash, all by weight, at the rate of 4oz. a square yard will be suitable for most soils. Seed should be sown Jin. deep in rows 12in. apart and the plants subsesequently thinned to 3 to 4in. apart in the rows. Provided conditions are not

too hot or dry, seedlings removed during thinning may be used for transplanting to another bed. They should be well watered after being set out. Varieties Types of beetroot and varieties of each type (with maturity period of the variety in days shown in parentheses) are as follows:Flat: Egyptian, Early Wonder (52). Round or globular: Crimson Globe, Derwent Globe, Detroit Dark Red (60). Half-long: Obelisk (65). Long: Long Smooth Red, Long Dark Blood (78). Recommended varieties for January planting are Early Wonder and Derwent Globe.

THE HOME GARDEN IN JANUARY

Swedes In northern districts and where soil moisture can be maintained and a fairly long growing season is assured seed of swede turnips can still be sown as advised in last month’s “Journal”. Swedes are easy to grow, are high yielding, and have a higher food value than ordinary turnips. If sown now, they will be harvested before reaching full maturity and will be found of superior flavour to earlier-sown ones. Swedes are of especial value, as they will keep in good condition throughout winter. A quick-maturing variety is Garden Swede. Parsnips Tender well-grown parsnips are popular, and although they require a long season of growth to develop to their full size, seed of the Oxheart variety sown now as advised in last month’s “Journal” will produce sizable roots by winter. ■ Chinese Cabbage Chinese cabbage is not grown to a great extent by . home gardeners and is often considered a new vegetable. It is probably a native of China, where it has been cultivated since the fifth century. It is a useful vegetable and deserves a place in the home garden. The leaves are stripped from the midribs and boiled like spinach and the midribs may be cooked and served like celery or asparagus. Chinese cabbage can also be eaten raw like lettuce. Chinese cabbage is an annual and has few characteristics of common cabbage. Two distinct species are grown: Pakchoi and Pe Tsai. The Pakchoi varieties resemble silver beet in habit of growth. The leaves are long, dark green, and oval. This type does not form a solid head. Pe Tsai varieties are somewhat like cos lettuce, but produce a much larger and longer head which is compact; the leaves are slightly wrinkled, green, thin, and thickly veined with a broad midrib.

WORK IN THE HOME GARDEN IN JANUARY

As it thrives best during the cooler portion of the growing season, Chinese cabbage when sown in spring often fails to form desirable heads. Seed sown now should produce a good crop. Seed may be sown where the crop is to mature or it may be planted in a seedling bed and the plants transplanted out like cabbage. It is important, however, to prevent a check in growth, and for this reason the plants should not be allowed to get too large before being set out. At this period it is best to sow the seed where the crop is to mature, and after the plants become established they should be thinned to 15in. apart. Seed should be set Jin. deep in rows 24in. apart. Although a good loam is preferable, any rich soil retentive of moisture and

in good physical condition will produce satisfactory results with ordinary care and attention. A fertiliser containing 2 parts of blood and bone, 1 part of superphosphate, and 1/20 part of sulphate of potash, all by weight, should be applied at the rate of lib. per square yard and well worked in before planting. The most popular varieties are Chihili and Wong Bok. Spinach Substitutes Two excellent substitutes for spinach which can be sown now are tampala and New Zealand spinach (Tetrangonia eccpcmsa). Both do well where conditions are too hot and dry for. ordinary spinach. They are vig-

orous growers and are preferred by many to ordinary spinach. New Zealand spinach is not a true spinach, but the leaves resemble those of spinach and are used in the same way. The plants have a spreading habit and branches may be to 3 or 4ft. across and grow to a height of 1 to 2ft. The leaves are thick,, dark green, and somewhat triangular. The tips of the branches are used, and since these do not touch the soil, there is no soil to be washed off and no waste in preparing them for the table. Seeds of New Zealand spinach should be sown in groups of three 1 to 1 Jin. deep (depending upon whether the soil is heavy or light); groups should be at least 2ft. apart each way. Germination is often slow and seed may be soaked 12 hours before planting to promote faster germination. When the plants have become established each group of three should be thinned to one strong plant. » Tampala is a . frost-tender plant which takes 6 to 8 weeks to reach usable size. The plants may grow 2ft. or more high and repeated pickings can be made. Greens gathered from tall plants are free from the soil splashes so common on ordinary spinach. ’ Tampala does not bolt to seed in hot weather as does ordinary spinach. Seed should be sown Jin. deep in rows 18in. apart and the plants thinned to 12in. apart in the rows. Both New Zealand spinach and tampala require a rich, well-worked soil which has previously received a dressing of lime. For most soils a good general fertiliser - mixture is equal parts of blood and bone and superphosphate plus sulphate of potash equal to 5 per cent, of the weight of the first two manures. The fertiliser should be broadcast and worked into the soil several days before sowing at the rate of 4 to Boz. a square yard. Tampala is obtainable in two varieties; one has green leaver and the other green variegated with red.