BOOKS for the Hower Gardener

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 75, Issue 1, 15 July 1947, Page 103

BOOKS for the Hower Gardener

VERY home gardener should have at least a few carefully-chosen hooks to which he can turn for information and general interest. In this article J. P. Hudson, Horticulturist, Wellington, makes some comments on the choice of gardening books. - .

ARDENERS are sometimes surprised to learn that books .which have been, published on horticultural subjects now number many, 'thousands, ' though not all of them would be worth a place in the home gardener’s bookcase. Many of the earlier books,- though written ,by craftsmen and full of valuable observations, are now out of date. They were written for the use of professional gardeners on large private gardens, where big staffs of gardeners had ‘all the facilities they needed for the practice of their art. These books, with their references to using horse manure by the ton, separate glasshouses for special types of ornamental plants, and “full trenching” of the kitchen garden every winter, are as out of touch with present needs as old cookery books which say “take a dozen eggs and a quart- of cream” in these days of food shortages. However, many books have been written for the home gardener and can be of the greatest help to him. A good book puts the gardener in direct touch -with . the expert, whose knowledge and advice would never be available to him otherwise. ' A book should be chosen as much by its author’s reputation as by its title and subject, and reliable advice should be sought about which authors are regarded as the world’s leading authorities on any particular subject. There is a wide range of gardening books on general culture, and the others can be divided into several main groups: . Books on the growing of special plants; Books on garden sciences; EBooks on garden design; and >" Books on garden experiences.

Every home gardener should have at least one book on general culture to use for reference and to remind him, as he dips into it, of the many facets of garden work. Some monumental all-round gardening books have been published overseas, including the American Bailey’s “Standard Cyclopedia of Horticulture,” in three large' volumes, at present. priced at about £8 10s, The British Royal Horticultural Society’s “Dictionary of Gardening,” to be published shortly, is eagerly awaited. None of these works has particular reference to gardening in New Zealand, how- ; ever, and nothing so ambitious has yet been.. attempted here, though the time may be ripe for something of the sort, possibly on a smaller scale. ' ' \ Three general gardening guides, written for New Zealand gardeners, are available. They are necessarily limited in their scope, but every home gardener should have one. of them for reference. They are:— ‘ ) v ", “Brett’s Garden Guide,” 1945, price 7s. ,6d. “Whitcombe’s Complete New Zealand Gardener,” by J. A. McPherson, Superintendent of Parks, Auckland, price 6s. 6d. “The New Zealand Garden Dictionary,” by J. W. Matthews, editor of “The New Zealand Gardener,” price 6s. (illustrated edition). D. K. Pritchard’s “Vegetable Growing in the Home Garden,” Bulletin No. 229 of the Department of Agriculture, price 6d., should be added to this list for its valuable information on vegetable culture. ~. - Books on Special Crops A multitude of books has been written on the culture of special crops, and in some ways they are most valuable books to the grower, as they cover their subjects in much greater detail than can books on general gardening. As soon as a gardener finds that he is especially interested in some particular type of plants instance roses' —he should borrow from the public library all the specialist books available on that‘ subject, and then if possible buy the ones which seem to suit his purpose best. The National

Library Service holds no fewer than 20 books on roses,. 12 of which have been published during the past 10 years. . * * . . ' . " ; All the specialist books at present in print have been written overseas, and' that must be borne in mind when reading them. Allowance must be made not only for the six-month difference of seasons but also for the difference in climate between Britain, America, and New Zealand. The fact that New Zealand lies several hundreds of miles nearer the Equator than Britain has a marked effect on its climate, especially on the daily amount of daylight in summer and winter, and New Zealand’s wide separation from any considerable land mass also tempers its climate compared with that of Britain, America, or Australia. Several good specialist books have been written and published, in Australia, and it will be a pleasing event when one is written in New Zealand. Meanwhile overseas specialist books must be relied on. Books on Garden Science In. general, home gardeners are not particularly interested in so-called ‘•'scientific subjects,” but the chemistry and botany of the garden can be a very fascinating subject... The outstanding book on the botany of the garden is “The Living Garden,” by ,E. J. Salisbury, published by G. Bell and Son, London, price about. Ils.—a book which should be on every home gardener’s bookshelf and frequently dipped into after first being read right through. Professor Salisbury,, who is now Director of : the Royal Botanical Gardens, Kew, set a hew standard for books on \ garden science when he wrote this delightful and interesting book. Another book which can be recommended to the home gardener is “The Young Gardener,” by W. J. C. Lawrence, published in 1943 by George Allen and Unwin, London, price about 10s. • Though written primarily for the young entrant to a horticultural career; this book has most readable and informative chapters on. such subjects as garden ■ chemistry, physics, plant growth, health, and disease. Among other books on various aspects of garden science which the serious gardener might enjoy, “Practical Plant Breeding,” also by W. J. C. Lawrence (published by George Allen and Unwin, London, at about ,9s;) has been mentioned already in these columns. “Garden Pests in New Zealand,” by D. Miller, published in 1944 in an enlarged ■ second edition by Whitcombe and Tombs, Ltd., Wellington, price Bs. 6d.; is ■- another book worth a place on every gardener’s shelf. It is readable,

well illustrated, and informative. A similar book on garden diseases is overdue and would be welcomed. Books on Garden Design Practically all books on garden design published so far have been based on the design of large gardens. “The English Flower Garden,” by William Robinson, who fought and finally broke the stiff, Victorian cult of ribbon bedding, is still regarded as a standard text book on the subject, and R. : Sudell’s “Landscape Gardening” contains much very valuable information.- ■ There is a crying need for an authoritative work on the design, layout, and maintenance of the eighth or quarter-acre sections which comprise a great proportion of modern gardens. The traditional methods followed in larger gardens cannot be applied to these - smaller sections. The whole question needs very careful study by, an , expert, and a new “philosophy of the small garden” should be worked out in the same way that Robinson worked out and fought for his “philosophy of the informal garden.” Books on Garden Experiences Many eminent, (and some not-so-. eminent) horticulturists have written

about ' their gardening experiences. These range from Beverley Nichols’s light and entertaining books to . the biographies of plant collectors, stories of whose adventures in distant lands add interest to the plants which were introduced through their efforts.. No attempt can be made to list or recommend books of this class, as the reader’s enjoyment of such books will depend much on his or her particular taste. ’ • / , Library Facilities Books are expensive, and home gardeners should perhaps concentrate on buying those to which they are likely to refer often rather than those which will be read only once. Fortunately, it is possible for most home gardeners to borrow almost any book in which -they are likely to- be interested through one or other of the library services. Some cities and larger towns have a surprisingly-good selection of gardening books, though others t have few books of that kind. , •- - 1 - The smaller country libraries do not usually- carry many gardening books but can draw on a wide range held by the central libraries, so the country reader is not handicapped apart from the fact that he cannot select his book from the shelf but has to/wait for it to be procured for him. The New Zealand Government National Library Service holds

about 1200 books on gardening topics, most of them of recent date, and other central libraries are similarly well supplied in choice of titles. The National Library Service does not lend directly to the public, except to people living in ' remote places, more than 10 miles from a public library, but books from its collection may be obtained through most local libraries. The period of waiting before a. book can be made available to a borrower depends mainly on the number of copies held by the library and the demand for them. In the past the gardening public has made all too little use of the library services, and a growing and insistent demand for gardening books will be the greatest encouragement to librarians to procure more books suitable for the home gardener. Garden Work for August Chrysanthemum propagation is now in full swing. Border chrysanthemums are often left in the ground undisturbed for several years, but that does not produce the best results. As the sturdiest growth and finest flowers are produced in the plant’s first. season, putting out new plants each year is well worth while. There are several ways in which plants can be raised. Though raising new plants by dividing last year’s roots is the easiest method, especially if no cold frame is available, raising them from cuttings is more satisfactory, particularly if a large number of new plants is required. Cuttings may be taken in spring from the previous year’s plants still in the border, but most gardeners will have lifted selected roots in autumn, after the old flower stalks had been cut down, and planted them in a cold frame or very sheltered . corner. These plants will produce a prolific supply of cuttings early enough • in spring ' to ensure well-rooted plants for planting-out time, and meanwhile

the border is left free in winter to be dug. Only young 'shoots growing from below the ground should be used, as those growing from the main stem above ground level do not make satisfactory cuttings. ’ ■ To prepare the cuttings, remove the bottom two leaves of each (preferably by cutting them off close to the stem rather than by pulling them off), and then with a very sharp knife or razor blade cut off the bottom .of >. each stem just below the lowest joint—the place from which a leaf has been removed. Thin, very thick, 3 or crooked shoots should not be used. ; .■ The cuttings should be dibbled with a flat-ended dibbler J, to lin, deep, and 2in. apart, either directly into the soil in the frame or into seed boxes filled with light, sandy soil,. which can be stood ,in a glasshouse or frame while the cuttings root. ’' , Cultivation: Unlike the vegetable garden, which is dug over thoroughly at least once a year, mixed flower.borders are likely to- be dug neither thoroughly nor regularly, as they are never completely empty. It is therefore important that the soil should be stirred as deeply as .possible in areas' which become temporarily, vacant, but more harm than - good is likely to be done by deep digging between shrubs and other established plants whose roots will be severely injured by -deep '

cultivation. Where the ground between shrubs and in the borders has become hard after the beating of winter rains it should be loosened by shallow “pricking over” with a fork or hoe. At the same; time a dressing of the complete flower border fertiliser recommended on page 325 of the “Journal” for March, 1947, can be applied.- except in gardens where the soil is'still naturally rich and fertile. Gladiolus corms can be planted from now on in mild districts for very early flowers, but the main planting is not usually made until later. Close attention to skinning, inspecting, and dipping the corms before planting, as .described in detail on page 424 of the April. 1947, issue of the “Journal,” will be well repaid. ' ..Glasshouse plants: Seeds, of . begonias, . .cyclamen, gloxinias, etc, sown last month should now have germinated. Prick off the seedlings into boxes, or pots as soon as . they are large enough to handle. Allowing seedlings to become large, and crowded before pricking them out is a mistake, as it leads to serious mutilation of their root systems and a check to their growth. Hardy annuals may be sown out of doors, in early districts if the soil is in suitable , condition, , and seeds of the half-hardy bedding plants may be

sown in boxes. In most districts, however, sowing is better delayed until next month, as boxes of plants ready too early are only a nuisance and become starved before they can be set out. That applies especially if bedding is to follow wallflowers or other spring-flowering plants which are likely to continue flowering until later than had been expected. “If in doubt, delay sowing” might be the motto in sowing flower seeds for boxed plants. A young, strongly-growing plant will give much better results after being planted than one which has been halfstarved and waiting about in its box to be. planted out for too long. The sowing of seed in boxes will be dealt with fully in next month’s “Journal.”’ Heaths which are becoming too tall and “leggy” can be . rejuvenated by carefully packing soil in a mound between the main 'stems. The stems will soon root into the soil and the plant can then be lifted, pulled apart, and ' each rooted piece. replanted. “Nursery depth” is a term, sometimes seen in gardening books, which confuses, the home gardener. It means the depth at which the plant was growing before it was dug up from the nursery. When a plant is lifted that depth is indicated by the appearance of a “soil mark” on the stem. Above that point the stem is relatively dry and. usually darker in colour; below there the stem has quite a different appearance in both colour and texture.' The soil mark .is usually some distance above the uppermost root. When any plant is replanted it should be put in the ground at least as deep as it was before, as shown by the soil mark, and most plants are best put in a little deeper, with the soil mark just below the surface. It is a mistake to plant shallower or very much deeper than “nursery depth.” Tuberous begonias and gloxinias should now be turned out of last year’s pots, where they have been resting. Shake the soil away' from the corms and half bury them in boxes of potting compost to start into growth. Sprinkle the soil with tepid water to keep it just moist, and encourage the corms to start to grow. " Lawn edges should now be cut carefully to a new line with a sharp spade or half-moon cutter, but avoid removing more turf than is necessary to. give a true edge. Every few years it may be necessary to build out the edge of the lawn again and returf it to prevent paths and beds becoming unduly

wide. Lawn .edges should always be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, sloping away from the grass; that produces an edge less likely to break down if it is stepped on. Roses can be pruned at any time in the winter when there is no further likelihood of severe frost, but as hard frosts can kill back the tips of. rose branches, pruning is best left until the end of August or early September in districts subject to frosts. . Bush roses are pruned by cutting all the previous year’s shoots to within

a few inches of older wood and cutting out * weak pieces altogether. Climbing roses are pruned by cutting back all side shoots to within an inch or two of the main stem, but the main framework of older wood should usually be left unprimed unless an old branch can be replaced by a young, vigorous shoot produced the previous season. Old flowering wood should ,be cut out of rambler roses if that has not already been done, but it is better carried out in late summer immediately after they have flowered. • Shrubs such as rhododendrons, camellias, and azaleas, which flower on the ends of the previous year’s growths, should be pruned immediately after the flowers fade if pruning is necessary, but normally these shrubs require little pruning and should be cut as little as possible.

Soil for use in mixing seed-sowing composts should be sterilised, if that has not already been done, and other preparations made for providing the composts which will be needed during the spring. This subject is dealt with in detail in an article on pot plants on page 89. Reminders About Common Troubles Caterpillars of various kinds usually start - feeding on ornamental plants when growth begins in early spring. Leaf-roller caterpillars may now be seen on geraniums, / and black, hairy, “woolly bear” caterpillars will be found eating holes in cineraria leaves. At this season , these holes are conspicuous and the culprits can usually be found and killed by hand, but probably the easiest way of effecting a lasting control is to spray , all the cinerarias, geraniums, and other plants which show holes in their leaves with lead arsenate used at the rate of ljoz. of powder to 4 gallons of water. Great care should be used, as lead arsenate is a deadly poison. The powder should never be left'about, especially where there are children, however plainly, it may be labelled," but should be kept strictly under lock and key. , ' ~ Hardly a season passes without news of a fatal accident to a child who has eaten the white powder in mistake for - something else. That should be avoided by proper care, but there is much to be said for ', using only non-poisonous sprays in the home garden, and it is to be hoped that suitable nonpbisonous preparations of, for instance, D.D.T. will soon be on the market. Chrysanthemum eelworms (Aphelenchoides ritzema-bosi) live in the leaves, where they cause dark patches which later turn nearly black, until ultimately the whole leaf withers and hangs down the stem . before finally dropping off. The lower leaves are attacked first but the upper leaves are infested later, and the health of the plants may be undermined : and the quality of the - blooms ruined. This pest is extremely common and is present in almost all stocks of chrysanthemums, but where it is absent the greater vigour and strength of the plants can be noticed at once. . A full description of symptoms and methods of controlling eelworms was given in an article on pests and diseases of chysanthemums on page 91 of the July, 1946, issue of the “Journal.” The most effective way of eradicating the pest is, to wash the dormant stools thoroughly and immerse them for 20 minutes (30 . minutes for stools with very thick stems) in water at a temperature of 110 degrees F., afterward plunging them into clean, cold water

to cool off. This hot-water treatment kills all eelworms in and on the stools without affecting the plants. If stools thus treated are then planted out in, and the cuttings subsequently inserted into, sterilised soil or soil free from eelworm, perfectly clean plants can be produced for planting out. To attain the correct temperature of 110 degrees as soon as possible the water should be a few degrees warmer when the stools are first thrown in. In small baths it may be as high as 116 degrees, but in larger baths 112 to 115 degrees will usually be hot enough to allow for the first drop in temperature caused when cold stools are thrown in.. _ . > . . The cheapest and most satisfactory thermometer to use is a floating dairy or household thermometer, which is relatively inexpensive. The cheaper thermometers, however,-are rarely accurate enough for checking the temperature of hot-water baths for plant treatment, in which the temperature must be . controlled-to within a degree or less. The thermometer should therefore first be checked against one known to be accurate to ascertain how many degrees high or low it may be reading. A good way to. do this is to check at, say, 100 degrees against a clinical thermometer, but be careful not to burst the thermometer by put-

ting it in water at more than about 108 degrees F. ’ / Buckets of hot and cold water should be kept by the bath to correct too-rapid fluctuations of the temperature of the water, which should not be allowed to rise above 112 or to fall below 109 degrees, but should be kept as near 110 degrees as practicable. Gardeners who use this hot-water treatment regularly will agree that it is not as difficult as it sounds. : Stools which have been given the hot-water treatment are usually about three weeks slower than, normal in producing cuttings. - Allowance should be made for that delay if cuttings are required on a certain date, as for show chrysanthemums, which it. is now-too late to treat, though there is still time to treat the earlier-flowering types, which require a shorter growing season. Unfortunately, unrooted cuttings cannot be . given the hot-water treatment, as it usually - kills them, but rooted cuttings can be tied in small bundles, . surrounded by moss, and treated in the hot-water bath if that is more convenient than treating stools. Some of the leaves may turn brown after treatment, but the cuttings will soon produce healthy, clean leaves. ' All photographs in this article by Photo News Ltd. .