THE HOME GARDEN IN MARCH

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 74, Issue 2, 15 February 1947, Page 165

THE HOME GARDEN IN MARCH

“Whatever we have in any sort begun wisely it is good to finish it thoroughly.”— John Ruskin.

MANY garden vegetable crops will reach maturity during March, and others during favourable autumn weather will be storing up plant energy necessary for them to survive inclement winter weather successfully. Home gardeners should therefore consider the .... . 7 ■ e . , 1 . literal interpretation of the above quotation by not neglecting any opportunity of doing everything possible to “finish thoroughly” the work in the vegetable garden which was “begun wisely.”

By

D. K. PRITCHARD,

Instructor in Vegetable Culture, Wellington.

"PROM March till the time when . work in the garden will be less strenuous and exacting activities should be directed to the protection of maturing crops until harvesting is completed, and- toward encouraging growth and development of crops from which winter and early spring supplies are expected.

Onions

The onion crop is the first among crops which should mature during March. To produce long-keeping bulbs — these should be considered of major economic importance for domestic —dry weather conditions are necessary during the latter period of development. Everything possible should be done to prevent prolonging vegetative growth of the plants. If bulbs are well developed, no water should be applied during February and hoeing for weed destruction should be stopped during the same period.

Bulbs can be considered ready for harvesting as soon as the tops turn brown and begin to change from their usually erect position. If possible, a warm, dry, sunny day, when a good wind is blowing, should be chosen for pulling the onions. If the soil is dry at the. time of harvesting, so much the better. Laid in double rows with the bulbs facing each other, they will soon dry, but if wet weather is expected, removal to a dry, airy shed or other covering will be necessary.

Potatoes

As long as top growth of potatoes remains healthy and vigorous tuber development will continue and the ultimate weight of the crop will increase. Where it is practicable, and under the -conditions just mentioned, the main potato crop should be permitted to mature in the normal way before digging. Haulm which has become diseased should be removed and burned before the crop is dug. There is nothing to be gained by leaving a matured pototo crop undug, as, where the rows have been insufficiently moulded, the tubers are liable to attack by the potato tuber moth, and if the soil becomes too wet, the tubers may start to grow, which will seriously impair their keeping quality.

1 The adoption of these recommendations may assist in preventing the loss of a valuable potato crop and in the securing of the heaviest possible yield. Beans and Peas - Not much can be done to “hold” bean and pea crops for use at any

desired time, as they are best used when tender. Climatically, however, there is a vast difference in their requirement. All varieties of beans are warm-weather, frost-tender vegetables, while peas are not only a cool-weather variety, but will stand considerable frost without damage. It is desirable, therefore, when sowing seeds for autumn crops, be space the dates that peas will be maturing after cold conditions make further harvesting of beans imnnssihle oeans impossioie.

It is authoritatively stated that high quality of peas is closely related to the ratio of their sugar-starch content, and that during maturity there is a quick decrease in sugar and other soluble matter with relative increase in starch. • This change, it is stated,

decreases the nutritional value of over-mature peas. Tomatoes Since notes on tomatoes appeared in the February issue of the “Journal,” information available indicates further deterioration m the prospects of a plentiful suppy of tomatoes being available from the crops of commercial growers, and again it appears necessary to stress the importance of doing everything possible to prolong

the productive life of the vines so that the best possible yield may be obtained from plants growing in the garden.. Where high winds prevail satisfactory crops cannot be ' secured from tomato plants unless adequate shelter is provided. ' - Attacks on tomato plants and fruits by some injurious fungi, may be great-

jy minimised or entirely prevented by the careful adoption of appropriate cultural practices, and the amount of disease-free fruits secured will almost certainly be increased. . „,,.„ , ™ j « t P“ ryt ‘ s Stem Bot.-The be less attacks by botiytis species win tomato lf . care 13 excised when tomato P lants are being pruned knife Xld XaT°be used a cXn ctt sn °¥ lcl ai ' ays be used, a clean cut made, and rhe leaf or shoot cut close to the stem . As conditions con .

ducive to high humidity are primarily responsible for the occurrence of this disease, removal of all leaves under the first truss of fruit before it is picked will provide for. a better circulation of air around the base of the plant. Shallow cultivation of the

soil around and near the plants will assist in their protection from botrytis and other injurious fungi. Manuring.— use of unbalanced fertilisers for tomato plants is a common source of trouble. Excessive manuring at planting time and subsequent starvation are often responsible for such disorganisation of plant tissues that resistance to disease is weakened. The reverse practice will have similar disastrous results. To maintain tomato plants in healthy condition fertilisers should be applied with discretion throughout . the plants’ growth. This applies especially to the use of excess nitrogen. Caterpillars. Unless action is taken against caterpillars, they may cause losses of fruit out of all proportion in value to the cost of treatment, which, when properly applied, will exterminate them. Powdered arsenate of lead, ioz. to each gallon of Bordeaux mixture, is specially recommended. Kumaras During March main attention to kumaras should be directed toward preventing the vines rooting at the nodes. Provided growth is not too abundant, this may be done by occasionally raising them by hand or with the handle of a hoe. Although the tubers are quite good to eat when they have reached. consumable size, digging before they are fully matured will. often substantially reduce the yield. If, as sometimes happens, the

foliage is attacked by some leaf-eating insect, Bordeaux mixture with the addition of arsenate of lead as recommended for the control of caterpillars on tomatoes will usually prove effective. If nicotine sulphate is preferred to arsenate of lead, the spray should be applied during the warmest part of the day. Carrots (Spring) With allowance for climatic differences, seed for the production of early spring carrots is generally sown in March. To ensure good seed germination the soil should be worked down to a fine tilth and the bed made in a well-drained position. It is a waste of time and effort to attempt to produce early spring carrots on badlydrained soil. Where drainage is not considered satisfactory a raised bed will be necessary,. and for convenience the bed should not be more than 3ft. wide. In preparing land for this crop no stable manure or green manure should be dug in immediately before sowing the seed. If 2oz. of superphosphate a square yard is broadcast and worked into a suitable part of the garden just cleared of a cabbage or potato crop which had been well manured, a bed fertile enough to produce a good crop of carrots should result. If additional fertiliser is required, blood and bone manure applied in equal quantity will give good results.

When, the bed is ready for sowing the shallow furrows into . which the seed is to be sown should be made across the bed and not lengthwise. If this method is adopted, weeding and thinning can be done without treading on the soil among the young plants. This is important, particularly on soils of heavy texture, as treading on such soils during winter will set them down hard, which is inimical to best production. Carrot seed sown during March should require only light soil covering. During dry weather the surface of the bed must be kept moist. In shallow, heavy soils a short, stump-rooted variety such as Early Horn will be suitable, but in suitable friable loams good results may be obtained with seeds of Chantenay, Earlykrop, or Champion Scarlet Horn. Lettuce Lettuce plants from seed sown during late January or early February should be set out as soon as convenient so that they may be fairly well grown before really cold weather begins. Although lettuce is a coolweather plant, good crops cannot be grown during frosty, cold, or inclement conditions. As with spring carrots, the best possible drainage is necessary as well as fertile soil. The seedlings, although they will not develop into fullsized lettuces, should not be set closer than the usual distance; 12in. between the plants each way will not be too much space to allow for cultivation during winter. Varieties specially recommended for this planting are Imperial 615 and Neapolitan-Winter Market. Rhubarb Although spring- and early summerbearing rhubarb will now be dormant and non-producing, it is a mistake to assume that the area occupied by the roots can be neglected and allowed to become a bed 01 weeds. Such undesirable growth extracts from the soil valuable plant food which should be stored by the rhubarb roots to produce next season’s crop. If the bed has not been properly attended to since pulling stopped, this should be done without delay. A heavy dressing of blood and bone manure, 2 or 3 handfuls to each root, and well worked into the soil, will be beneficial. If available, a substantial mulch of well-rotted farmyard manure spread over the bed will greatly assist in maintaining the fertility of the soil and its humus content, which are necessary for the production of heavy rhubarb crops.

Winter- and ever-bearing varieties .should be kept free of weeds and heavily fertilised, and seed stalks should be cut as soon as they are observed, as they drain the roots of stored fertility if permitted to develop.

Asparagus No top growth whatever should be removed from asparagus roots. Advice sometimes given that the fern production should be removed before it has ripened is contrary to the best practices generally adopted. As the dense overhead growth usually smothers all weeds, no great amount of attention is necessary. This does not mean, however, that when weeds do appear they should not be destroyed; only fern growth from the roots should be permitted to grow on the asparagus bed. Cauliflower Developing cauliflowers should now receive every attention so that the curds may be harvested before frost damages them or makes them unfit for consumption. More, good cauliflowers are lost through being checked during growth than from any other cause; they are exacting plants and lack of proper attention will ruin many a promising bed. When plants appear to be “hanging fire” liquid manure, either organic or inorganic, should be applied.

As soon as curd growth becomes prominent and the inside protecting leaves are inclined to turn outward, the large, erect outside leaves may be loosely tied together at the top to protect the heads from direct sunlight and preserve their . natural whiteness.

Broccoli Much the . same recommendations may be made for broccoli as for cauliflowers. Broccoli are much hardier than cauliflowers and will stand up to weather conditions which would make cauliflowers unfit for use. Growth of broccoli should not be checked for lack of fertiliser, however, and liquid nitrogenous manure will greatly assist the plants’ development during late autumn and winter.

THE POTATO TUBER MOTH., The potato tuber moth is some . times responsible for considerable damage to growing potatoes, but its effects are worst on stored tubers. The moth flies at night and generally lays its eggs on leaves of plants. Eggs may be laid direr iy on the exposed parts of seed or growing tubers insufficiently covered with soil, the larvae subsequently burrowing into the potato. . Crops intended for storage should never be left out uncovered overnight, but it is not advisable to use the haulms to protect the tubers. All

top growth is best destroyed by burning. Dusting potatoes in store with slaked lime is said to give some protection against the moth. [Reference: “Garden Pests in New Zealand”— David Miller.] PLANT HORMONES. Among the substances for sale at present under the name of hormones are some sold as weedkillers. A certain amount of effective weed control has been achieved by their use, but gardeners should be warned of damage which may be done to other plants by the use of apparatus which, after being used for weed destruction

by one of these hormones, is not sufficiently cleaned of all traces of the liquid mixture before being used for the application of other substances. Tests recently carried out at the . Plant Research Bureau, Department of Scientific and Industrial Research, on the residual effects of one of these weed-killing hormones showed that tomato plants may be damaged at a concentration of 1 in 4,000,000. Although greater dilutions were not tested, it is possible that damage may be done to plants at an even lower concentration. It is important, therefore, that every part of spraying apparatus used for weedkilling should be thoroughly cleaned before being used to spray garden plants to protect them against disease or insect damage. GREEN MANURING. The use of weeds and crops in a more or less matured condition to maintain the organic matter content

of soil in which edible . crops are grown is probably as old as agriculture. It is known to have been practised in China as early as 1134 8.C., and is carried on extensively in that country at present.

The value of digging and ploughing in green manure crops is recognised in all civilised countries, particularly where, intensive cultivation is carried on. Under continuous cropping and without constant replenishment of organic matter soil would quickly lose its fertile quality and become useless for crop production.

The importance of organic matter to the fertility of soil, on which it has both a physical and biochemical action, cannot be over-estimated. Its improvement of the physical structure of the soil * makes good tilth production easier, stimulates aeration, and increases its moisture-holding capacity. Although organic matter is sometimes referred to as humus, to which it ultimately becomes transformed, the term humus is incorrect when applied to an organic substance. Many soil scientists agree that humus, which is the product of decayed organic matter, is a complex and little-understood substance. Before motor-powered vehicles became widely used on and off the farm

stable manure was the principal organic matter used for vegetable crop production. The present scarcity of stable manure has made necessary the growing and ploughing in or digging in of crops grown specially to maintain soil fertility.

Unfortunately for the home gardener it is not practicable to grow for green manure crops which are stated to give best results, but from others which may be grown good results can be secured.

Legumes. Plants of this species possess the special faculty of storing in their roots nitrogen which they extract from the air. Of these plants the seed most commonly used is that of lupins. Seed of any. of the pea and bean varieties will serve the same purpose of providing nitrogen, which, when the crop has been dug into the soil and is decomposed, will be available for the succeeding crop.

Non-legumes. Commercial vegetable growers usually grow oats as a green manure crop, but barley, maize, millet, and mustard are other plants which improve the soil when they are dug in. The time when a green manure crop should be’turned under is determined mainly by the kind of vegetable crop it is intended to plant on the area occupied.

APHIS AND CARROT RUST.

Correspondence received from home gardeners who find it difficult to grow good carrots often reveals a mistaken idea of the respective damage done to carrots by aphis and carrot rust fly.

Aphis.—When carrot seed is sown during midsummer or while the weather is warm and dry bad germination is often blamed for crop failures when aphis, which during warm, dry weather will destroy a bed of young carrots almost as soon as the first leaves appear above ground, are the real cause.

Aphis are most active during midsummer, but their depredations are

confined to the leaves from which they suck the plant sap, causing the growth to become stunted, curl, and turn yellow. If no remedial treatment is given, affected plants may be killed.

Paranaph, nicotine sulphate, or derris dust applied regularly will keep the pest in check and prevent it from becoming a menace to the plants. •

(Leaf Blight.— Yellowing of carrot leaves may also be due to leaf blight caused by the fungi Macrosporium or Cercospora, which may be controlled by spraying with Bordeaux mixture 4-4-50 at weekly intervals. A thorough examination of the plants will readily determine what is , responsible for the carrot foliage turning yellow.)

Carrot Rust Fly.— -In the North Island, and especially in the Auckland Province, the carrot rust fly is seriously affecting profitable carrot production by commercial vegetable growers, and home gardeners are similarly affected.

As with aphis, dry weather conditions favour the activities of this pest, damage from which is confined to the roots.

The larvae are stated to be slender, straw-coloured maggots 3-10 in. long, which generally eat their way from the crown of the root down the side to the tap root, but the secondary roots may be destroyed first. Leaves of attacked plants turn a reddish-purple, which is entirely different from the readily visible indications of the presence of aphis.

Of the many insecticides which have been experimented with to control this pest, naphthalene has been outstandingly successful, and weekly applications of horticultural naphthalene at the rate of loz. along 9ft. of row are recommended. In badly-infested areas it may be advisable to increase this amount by one-third.

Plant Growing on the Form

“Hullo,” said the farmer when an officer of the Horticulture Division surprised him while working in u his garden. “So you’re the Instructor in Vegetable Culture who writes about, vegetables in the ‘Journal of Agriculture.’ “You know, I was intensely interested in what you wrote in the January issue of the ‘Journal’ about a glasshouse on the farm. I’ve no doubt it’s a good' idea, but I was down in a market-gardening district a week or so ago and I called on one of the gardeners there and had a good look round. He was a good fellow, but some of them won’t tell you much you know, pretty close.

“However, I saw a structure that took my fancy, made a mental note of it, and have since been working out the details of my ideas. Interesting, yes, but you’ll find it more so when I give you all the details of what I have figured out. “The method this market gardener had of growing early and other plants was a sort of box. A frame, yes, that’s the name he gave it. On top of it was what appeared to be a window resting on two pieces of timberrunners, is that the name given to. them, and the window affair is called a light? “The narrow ends of the frame faced north and south, and the south end was higher than the other. That, I thought, would allow for more sun-

light and provide a quick run-off for rain. The light, as you said the glassed part was called, could be moved backward or forward. Yes, you’re right, by this means ventilation would be provided for plants growing in the frame. “I’m pretty handy with the few carpenter’s tools I’ve got, and I’m quite sure between the wife and me we’ll make something suitable for growing early vegetable plants. Of course, I’ve got what you wrote about a small glasshouse at the back of my head, and I have no doubt that when we see what can be done with this small affaira frame, two runners, and a light, yes, I’ve got it all right—we will not be satisfied until we realise our ambition. “Between you and me this vegetable business in early spring has got me worried.” (This in a distinctly lower tone, as the kitchen window was wide open.) “I’ve been working out the details of the number of plants that could be grown in one of these frames. Six feet long by three feet wide, so that’s the exact size? I’m glad I’ve got that right. I didn’t want to appear inquisitive, you know, though I was interested. I’ll write the size down so I won’t forget. “I intend to start with a seedling box like those you have sometimes referred to in your ‘Journal’ notes, which might be the same size as an apple case, 19|in. by 12in., but only 2|in. to 3in. deep. If the bottom of

this box is close boarded, leaving just enough space for surplus water to drain away, I could get quite a lot of seedlings, enough to fill up this frame if I pricked them out into it. “You don’t think so? You think I would require more than one box of seedlings to fill up the frame? Well, let us see how it works out. Yes, I know that plants like cabbage and lettuce can be pricked out pretty close. Half an inch would be quite enough, you think? . Well, you ought to know. “So, at half an inch apart in rows one inch apart this frame 6ft. by 3ft. would hold over 5000 plants, and pricked out one inch apart the frame would accommodate more than 2500 plants. Well, that is a surprise. “Now, how would that work out for growing tomato plants? We use a lot of tomatoes, and I was thinking of growing my own next season. Yes, I’ve got a copy of your book ‘Vegetable Growing in the Home Garden.’ I’ll look it up about tomatoes. “Let me see, this frame would hold three boxes in the lengthwise run and three across; that would be nine boxes. Overcrowded when the plants begin to grow, you think? I suppose that’s what would happen. Well, if I only pricked out six boxes of seedlings and each box contained 36 plants, that would be 18 dozen tomato plants I could grow comfortably in this frame 6ft. long by 3ft. wide. It’s amazing. “Well, if this can be done in one frame and one light, —I mean we—will

be more determined than ever to put up that small glasshouse. It’s just beginning to dawn on me the possibilities for plant growing of the small structure you wrote about.

“By the way, if you happen to have a little plan of the frame I’ve been telling you about, I’d be glad to have

a copy. Of course, I’m a bit of an amateur at the plant-growing business, and if I should get into difficulties and require assistance —yes, I remember seeing it in your bookso if I write to the Director, Horticulture Division, Department of Agriculture, P.O. Box 3004, Wellington, telling him about my troubles, I’ll get a reply with some good practical advice? Well, that’s what I call real service from your Department.

“You know, I’ve enjoyed this talk and I hope you’ve got some ideas it may be possible to pass on to someone else. I believe in mutual assistance, and you fellows travelling about have a good opportunity of passing on points you may pick up from men like myself.

“What! You’re not going away like that, surely; I just heard the cups rattling on the kitchen table.”

A Children’s Garden on the Farm

Could anything be more influential in fostering and developing a rudimentary knowledge and love of soil cultivation than the allocation of a small area of the garden where children could produce flowers and vegetables under their mother’s supervision. Throughout their education children are constantly being reminded of the vitamin value of vegetables when these are freshly taken from the garden and used without delay. Records have been published of the success of some scholars in the production of field crops. The inauguration of some competitive stimulus for home garden vegetable growing is surely not impossible.

SPIN YOUR OWN WOOL.

All stages of the processes of home spinning, from selection of wool to skeining and dyeing, are described in detail in a new bulletin “Spin Your Own Wool.” This bulletin, No. 259, also contains a valuable chart for the use of vegetable dyes and mordants. Write or call at the nearest office of the Department of Agriculture for this and other informative bulletins.