Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image

Uncapping Honey Combs

By

I. W. FORSTER,

Apiary Instructor, Invercargill.

THOUGH appliances used to uncap combs of honey have been steadily improved, uncapping has proved a difficult process to mechanise and for the most part remains an entirely manual operation, depending on the skill and strength of the operator for its speed and efficiency. Where suitable labour is not available uncapping often becomes a bottleneck in honey-house operations, especially now that modern transport, improved handling facilities, and up-to-date extractors have speeded up and simplified most of the other phases of honey extracting. This article outlines the principal uncapping appliances and methods in use today.

Types of Knives

The plain uncapping knife and its steam-jacketed counterpart have been practically the . standard uncapping appliances used for many years. From time to time knives heated by electric elements attached directly to the blade have been constructed, but in most cases the heat has not been steady enough to meet the intermittent demands on it. Knives so heated usually become too hot while not in contact with the combs and burn the adhering honey; when the blade is being drawn across a heavy comb it cools so rapidly that the knife becomes clogged before a full stroke can be made.

The beekeeper with only a small quantity of honey to extract , will find the plain knife, used cold, convenient and suitable for his requirements. In the past uncapping work on a large scale was often carried out with a cold knife, especially where honey-houses were used at out-apiaries. A strong, skilful operator can achieve satisfactory results with a cold knife if the blade is kept sharp and the combs of honey are warm. '

The plain knife can be warmed by immersing it in a container of hot water, but care should be taken to see that the knife is wiped thoroughly dry each time before it is brought into contact with the comb, as any excess of moisture in honey may cause fermentation. The steam-heated knife has a copper jacket soldered to the blade and connected to a small boiler by a light rubber tube, a second tube being used

to take away the exhaust. The circulation of steam keeps the blade continuously hot. The efficient performance of this type of knife is reflected in its wide popularity.

Uncapping Methods

A suitable rest is necessary to support the comb while it is being uncapped. That can be provided' by fixing a wooden bar across the uncapping can with the sharpened end of a nail projecting from the centre of its upper surface. The comb to be uncapped should be placed with the middle of one end bar resting on the nail point and supported by placing the free hand of the operator on the other end bar (Fig. 2). The comb should then be pivoted first one way and then the other, and the outside of the top and bottom bar trimmed clean of adhering burr comb with a downward stroke of the knife. Should propolis be present in quantity, it should not be scraped into the uncapping can, as its dark colour and low melting point will lower the grade of the beeswax produced.

Uncapping knives are made in two lengths. The lOin. blade spans a fulldepth frame and allows the complete side of a comb to be uncapped in one stroke; the Bin. blade requires two sweeps to each side. The uncapping procedure, therefore, is influenced by the size of the knife. Upward or Downward Stroke? The operator also has the choice of using an upward or a downward stroke, or a combination of the two. The merits and demerits of each stroke may be summed up as follows: Upstroke: The knife is started at the bottom of the frame and brought upward with as much sawing motion as required to deal with the toughness of the comb. The frame should be leaned toward the knife to allow the cappings to drop clear as they are removed, at the same time keeping the thumb and z fingers of the hand well back out of reach of the blade, or a

painful cut may be received if the knife slips upward. With the upstroke the cutting edge is toward the operator, which seems to give greater control over the knife. That is an advantage when it is desired to take only a thin shaving of cappings or when dealing with partially-capped combs.

Downstroke: Starting at the top of the comb, the downstroke proceeds similarly to the upstroke, but the grip on the knife can be adjusted to advantage so that the thumb rests on the shank as in Fig. 2, giving a greater purchase and lessening the strain on the hand, considerably. As the shank is inclined to become hot. it is usually necessary to insulate it with a binding of asbestos. The downstroke, though not so suitable for fine work, is faster and more straightforward when dealing with well-filled combs, as the knife is moving' away from the hand supporting the comb, which gives greater confidence for a determined thrust. Also, as the cappings are detached they move downward ahead of the knife, so the comb can be held at any. convenient

angle and not necessarily leaned forward as for the upstroke. If the operator prefers to take two sweeps at the side of a comb, an effective method is to cut down one side and up the other. Rosedale Uncapping Plane An appliance which has rapidly gained favour since its introduction in this country some 10 or 12 years ago, the Rosedale uncapping plane is today about as popular as the uncapping knife as standard honey-house equipment. The plane resembles a giant safety razor and works on a similar principle, being drawn across the comb in the

same manner as a razor is drawn across the face. The blade, 4Jin. wide,

is made of high-grade copper, which metal allows a maximum of heat to be conducted to the cutting edge. The blade can be set to uncap thickly or thinly. On the back of the plane is a steel blade for the scraping of frame bars. Aluminium is the metal mainly used in the body of the plane, giving fair strength with a mininium of weight, so that the appliance balances nicely in the hand.

Though the usual method of using the uncapping plane is to hold the comb lengthwise and make two strokes from end bar to end bar, some beekeepers work by holding the comb on end and making 4 or 5 short sweeps from bottom to top bar and vice versa. A variety of comb rests has been devised for use with the uncapping plane. In most cases the general principle is to balance the comb with the free hand on a flat frame with the near bottom corner of the frame resting against a projection, which will take the thrust and hold the comb stationary against the pull of the plane.

Plane Uncapping Rack Some beekeepers use a simply-con-structed rack (Fig. 3) which takes the full weight of the comb during uncapping while allowing easy access to every part of it with the plane. The materials required are a piece of timber about 3in. by 1 Jin. and long enough to span the uncapping can, 4ft. of Jin. water pipe, 1 T-joint, and 2 elbows. Attach the wooden bar across the uncapping can in the usual manner. Set a piece of pipe, long enough to bring the rack up to a comfortable working height, firmly in an upright position by inserting one end in, a

hole bored vertically in the wooden

crosspiece. Ream out the inside of the downward arm of the T-joint so that it will slip tightly over the top end of the piece of pipe already fixed, but be free enough to be turned round at will. Into each arm of the T-joint screw a piece of pipe with an elbow at the end and turned upward. Take two pieces of pipe about 9-2-in. long and squeeze or hammer flat 2in. at one end of each. Cut a slot in the end of the flattened portion about Jin. wide and nine-tenths of an inch deep, and then thread the opposite ends ready to screw them into the elbows on the arms of the T.

To give the frame ample clearance, the bases of the uprights are set lin. further apart than the tops. Hence it will be necessary to bend these two members so that when set in position they will each lean in sufficiently to bring the slotted top ends to the correct span for holding a frame of honey.

Hang the frame of honey by the top-bar lugs in the slots provided and place the free hand on the nearest bottom corner with the fingers behind the comb. It is then easy to swing out the frame to trim the bottom bar, and, as the whole rack pivots from the T-joint, both sides and top of the comb are easily accessible.

Uncapping Machines

An uncapping machine consists of a stand on which a steam-heated blade is mounted horizontally with the cutting edge uppermost. The blade oscillates at about 800 strokes a minute and the operator, holding the comb by the end corners, thrusts it downward across the blade.

Uncapping machines operated by a treadle were illustrated in bee books as far back as 1886. The modern powerdriven version has been available to the honey industry for many years, and it is difficult to say why this appliance has not been more widely adopted. Precautions As in any operation which can be carried out by a variety of appliances and under varying conditions, each person will select the implements and methods that suit his requirements. Any of the methods or combinations of methods outlined will give satisfactory results if the following points are observed: 1. If possible uncap the honey while it is warm. 2. See that no moisture is introduced into the honey from wet appliances or from steam leaks.

3. Keep all cutting edges sharp whether the appliance is being used hot or cold.

4. Keep the thumb and fingers of the hand supporting the comb out of reach of the blade of the implement.

KILLING YOUR OWN MEAT.

With 52 pages and 36 full-page illustrations, Bulletin No. 249, “Killing Your Own Meat,” gives most complete and easily followed information on killing and dressing. The booklet also deals with choosing suitable animals and making a cooler. Bulletin No. 249 is obtainable from offices of the Department of Agriculture, Auckland, Palmerston North, Christchurch, and Dunedin. Price 6d., post free.

This article text was automatically generated and may include errors. View the full page to see article in its original form.
Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/periodicals/NZJAG19470215.2.26

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 74, Issue 2, 15 February 1947, Page 153

Word Count
1,777

Uncapping Honey Combs New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 74, Issue 2, 15 February 1947, Page 153

Uncapping Honey Combs New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 74, Issue 2, 15 February 1947, Page 153

Log in or create a Papers Past website account

Use your Papers Past website account to correct newspaper text.

By creating and using this account you agree to our terms of use.

Log in with RealMe®

If you’ve used a RealMe login somewhere else, you can use it here too. If you don’t already have a username and password, just click Log in and you can choose to create one.


Log in again to continue your work

Your session has expired.

Log in again with RealMe®


Alert