THE HOME GARDEN IN FEBRUARY

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 74, Issue 1, 15 January 1947, Page 37

THE HOME GARDEN IN FEBRUARY

THOUGH the aspiring gardener may be aware that lack of knowledge of certain phases of gardening is a factor, perhaps the main reason, for his unsuccessful production, reflection on the words quoted above should engender confidence that perseverance will bring its reward. The following quotation from Riley is also applicable: “When working for results in your garden remember that the ripest peach is high on the tree.”

By

D. K. PRITCHARD,

Instructor in Vegetable Culture, Wellington.

THOUGH the food value of tomatoes -*■ may be greater when the fruit is permitted to ripen on the vine, such a practice often encourages damage by birds. In most tomato-growing districts fruits on well-grown, early- < set tomato plants' should begin to change colour from mid-February. To secure these fruits for household use it is generally necessary to remove them as soon as they change colour, If they are left on the vines, birds will almost certainly destroy them long before they are red. Commercial growers, and no doubt many

home gardeners, have had the experience of even immature, green tomatoes being picked by birds. Ripening of Tomatoes r J Tomatoes colour first inside. When the outside changes from green it assumes a light greenish yellow. The centre of such a fruit cut in twothis is properly done by cutting at right angles to the stemwill be a rich pink. Picked in the condition just described and kept in ordinary kitchen temperature, the fruits will

ripen perfectly. ’ They should not, however, be placed at a window and exposed to strong sunlight. This will • induce sun-scorch, and render the skin tough and unpalatable. In tomato-growing areas where trees provide ample shelter for birds, pick- . ing of fruits when they are just changing colour is the best means of preventing destruction of the earliest and best fruits.

Because of unfavourable weather this season, including late frosts in some tomato-growing districts, supPhes of tomatoes from commercial growers will probably be below normal, and home gardeners should everything possible to obtain maximum production from their tomato plants. Keeping plants closely tied to stakes, pruning out surplus shoots shallow hoeing to destro all we ’ ed growth spraying , , . , . 5. „ at 10-to 12-day intervals with Bordeaux mixture, and judicious watering are the best means of guaranteeing ample supplies..

Lettuce

For late autumn and winter supplies of lettuce, seed may be sown during February. If the garden is full of vegetables, it may be convenient to use a small seedling box. Any kind of box will do, provided it is not less than 2 to 2|in. deep. Broadcast a small quantity of seed —a pinch will be sufficientand lightly cover it with finely-sieved soil. To water the soil thoroughly the box may be soaked in a bath or washtub, then placed in a warm, shady place, not permitting the topsoil to become dry. After germination the seedlings may be watered with a watering can fitted with a fine rose. Imperial 615 and Neapolitan (Winter Market) are varieties recommended for this sowing. •

Pumpkins, Squash, etc.

During prolonged periods of dry weather all varieties of the gourd family are likely to be attacked by aphides. These sucking insects are very destructive to plant life; they do not chew the foliage like slugs or caterpillars, but puncture the skin and suck the sap from leaves they attack. Many species of • aphides and thrips are known carriers of disease. As a contact insecticide is necessary to destroy these pests, spraying with nicotine sulphate or paranaph is recommended. Dusting with derris is also effective.

To restrict plants running almost wholly to leaf and vine the growing points should be cut out when the runners reach a length of 4ft., which will induce fresh lateral growth and better fruit development.

Shallots

Shallots are usually harvested in February. Bulbs intended for long storage should not be roughly handled during harvesting, as this seriously impairs their keeping quality. They should be pulled and left to dry thoroughly before storing in a shed or outhouse where air circulation is good.

Eggplant

In northern districts where the eggplant is mostly grown, regular inspection of the crop is necessary for the detection of disease and attacks by insects and caterpillars. Eggplants are stated to be particularly sensitive to verticillum wilt and bacterial wilt, which also attack tomato plants. As little can be done to control these diseases, clean cultural practices and crop rotation are. advised. Grubs and insects which attack eggplants can be fairly effectively controlled by insecticides.

Celery

In southern districts and the lower part of the North Island celery plants intended for use during winter should be set out before the end of February.

In the Auckland Province plants set out much later will reach maturity.

Early-planted beds should now be producing well. It is not advisable to blanch more plants at one time than can be used before the next lot being blanched is ready for use. Once the stems lose their green colouring deterioration seems to take place more quickly than in the unblanched plant. Wrapping and fastening paper round the heads from the bottom of the plant to a little above the top of the ribs will usually induce sufficient blanching. The wrapping, however, should not extend to the soil around the plant, as this would prevent the air circulation necessary to assist in preventing development of injurious fungi. Peas Only in favourable localities should pea seed be sown at this time of the year to obtain a late crop. For this sowing a dwarf variety— F. Massey or Little Marvel — recommended. It is important that peas at present growing should have plenty of water, as the abundant foliage of tall-grow-ing varieties transpires a large amount of water during dry, sunny weather. Pods should be picked when fully developed, but still tender. If it is intended to save seed for next season, only pods from vigorous, disease-free plants should be selected. Beans The same recommendations as those given for peas apply generally to beans. The best dwarf variety is The Prince, which is stated to mature two weeks quicker than Canadian Wonder.

Silver Beet

In the early stages of growth many winter-maturing green vegetables are subject to attack by insects and disease, but silver beet (sometimes named Swiss chard or spinach beet), except under abnormally wet conditions, is almost immune from any serious form of disease.

Plants grown from seed sown in January should be set out as soon as they are large enough. Where drainage is good water, may be applied liberally. Good results will be assured in ordinary garden soil if blood and bone manure is broadcast over the bed at 3 to 4oz. a square yard and well worked into the soil before planting. Silver beet plants can be set as close as Bin. apart in rows with 18in. spacing.

Cabbage for Spring

Home gardeners generally set out spring cabbage plants in early spring, but commercial growers endeavour to have supplies of this vegetable ready for harvesting from late July onward.

To secure supplies of spring cabbages early in the season seed should be sown during February in northern districts and earlier in all parts of the South Island except Nelson.

Flower of Spring is the variety specially recommended. When the seedlings start to grow they should be protected against aphides and caterpillars. Recommendations made in the December issue of the “Journal”, for protection of late autumn and winter crops will be found to be effective with young Flower of Spring plants.

Sow seed, in the ordinary way, preferably in a box not less than 6in. deep. , Spinach As the weather becomes cooler it will be worth making a sowing of spinach seed, Prickly or Winter variety. The seed should be sown sparingly in rows 12in. apart, and the soil should never be permitted to become dry after the seed germinates. When the plants are half grown liquid manure applied weekly will produce tender, succulent leaves; quick growth is necessary to produce tender plants. Kohl Rabi Seed of kohlrabi may be sown in either spring or autumn. If sown during February in rich garden soil, good bulbs, which grow above ground, will be produced for use during winter. If' soil conditions are not considered satisfactory, fertiliser as for cauliflower should be applied.

Seed may be sown in rows 12in. apart and the seedlings thinned to allow 6 to Bin. between the plants.

As kohlrabi is a member of the brassica family, it should not be grown in succession to cabbages or cauliflowers.

Chinese Cabbage

Chinese cabbage (Brassica pekinensis and B. chinensis) belongs to the brassicas, and should not follow a cabbage crop.

Soil and general culture should be as for cauliflower, but in autumn the seed is best sown in rows where the plants are to grow to maturity and thinned to 12in. apart; the distance between rows may be 16 to 20in.

The main varieties grown are Pe Tsai and Wong Bok. .

VEGETABLE SEED GROWING IN THE HOME GARDEN

Many vegetables mature and go to seed during autumn. Home gardeners who desire to save seed from vegetables of their own growing should make a selection immediately.

When the varieties from which seed is to be saved have been decided special plants which are vigorous,

healthy, free from disease, and have all the best characteristics of the variety to which they belong should be marked. Indiscriminate plant selection cannot be recommended. Seed is the basis of a crop, and upon it to a large extent will depend the quality of the plants produced.

Following are references to a few vegetables from which the home gardener may easily make selections of seed: — Beans As the principal diseases which affect beanshalo blight, anthracnose, and common bean mosaic— most cases are seed borne, it is important that in plant selection selected plants should be isolated as much as possible by the removal of adjoining plants which may be diseased. As disease spores can be spread by human agency, plants selected for seed production should never be handled after contact with diseased plants, unless the hands are washed, in water to which some ~ disinfectant has been added. Only the best-shaped pods should be allowed to mature on the vines for seed. Peas Diseases of peas which are manifested by brown sunken spots on leaves and pods are caused by fungi which ultimately find their way to the seed. No plant showing indications of these affections should be selected for seed production. All pea seed, whether bought or produced in the home garden, should be thoroughly examined before sowing, and any showing brown or coloured spots should be burnt. Carrots Seed should not be produced from carrots during the first season’s growth. For seed production carrots are biennials, and only the bestshaped roots should be retained for planting the following spring. No plant which shows yellow or chlorotic foliage should be selected. Carrots are self-fertile, but often cross-pollinate; protection at the flowering stage may be advisable. Tomatoes Selected fruits from specially-chosen tomato plants should be saved for seed. They should be fully ripened, and are better for seed saving if ripened on the vine. The tomatoes should be cut at right angles to the stem and the contents, including the pulp, squeezed out into an enamelled or earthenware container. If this is kept in the usual house temperature for 48 to 72 hours and stirred' frequently with a small piece of wood, the pulp should separate from the seed. The pulp can then be removed by washing several times with plenty

of water. Finally, the seed should be strained in a fine sieve and spread out to dry as quickly as possible. Lettuce Seed may also be saved from specially-selected lettuce plants, as there is little chance of cross-fertilisa-tion. Lettuces are shallow-rooting plants, and the flowering heads should be protected against stormy conditions. Ripe branches should be cut close to the main stem, tied in small bunches, and hung in a moderately warm place where there is a good current of fresh air. The seeds may be harvested after ripening by rubbing the seed heads carefully between the hands, and, if passed through a fine sieve, most of the foreign substance'can be removed. Cabbage or Cauliflower In attempting to save seed from any plants of the brassica family it should be realised that unless the plant or plants selected are adequately protected, cross-fertilisation is inevitable, with disastrous results. However, the work is interesting, and, if carried out properly, may be profitable from the point of view of gaining experience. When selected cabbage plants have reached maturity emergence of the developing seed stalk, will be made easier if a shallow cut, the shape of an X, is made across the head. It is usual with cauliflowers to permit a few heads to remain close together so that a good selection can be made. As these - mature undesir-

able types are removed and used in the ordinary way, thus allowing more space for. the seeding plants. Before the flowering stage is reached, with either cabbages or cauliflowers, the plants must be completely covered from ground level so that there is no possibility of pollen-bearing insects coming in contact with the plants during the flowering period. Unless this is done, seed production of brassica crops should not be attempted, the danger of cross-pollination being too great. The seed heads may be treated after ripening in the manner recommended for lettuces. All seeds must be thoroughly dried before storing.

COMMERCIAL VEGETABLE GROWING FOR EX-SERVICEMEN Many enquiries have been received from ex-servicemen concerning horticulture, and particularly vegetable growing, as a future occupation. The desire for a few acres of land any kind of land on which to build a home and begin an outloor life of profitable employment is quite understandable, but little consideration seems to have been given by most inquirers to the capital investment which may be involved. Nor has sufficient consideration been given to proximity to favourable markets for produce grown, suitability of the area selected, or of the soil for the crops it is intended to grow, the availability of assistance and when requiredby

seasonal workers during harvesting periods, and, what is of infinitely greater importance, the experience necessary to ensure success in any horticultural activities. Reluctance by those engaged in horticulture to give information on financial returns during the war should not be misunderstood or misinterpreted to mean that there is any desire to keep newcomers out of the horticultural business. Experience would seem to justify the opinion of practical men that neither the volume of trade nor the market values which have generally ruled during the past few years will be sustained and that the future must be approached with caution. The few points stated above and others ; of at least equal importance should receive full consideration before action is taken to acquire a holding. The matter is of such vital importance to ex-servicemen that persons qualified to give reliable and practical advice concerning the various aspects of horticulture should first be consulted. A GLASSHOUSE ON THE FARM , The erection of a small glasshouse would add to the many and varied activities of farm life. If the scarcity of labour and building material can be overcome, the advantages of a small glasshouse which could be used among other purposes for the propagation of vegetable and flowering plants are so obvious that the suggestion should be earnestly considered by all those interested in the proper and profitable maintenance of a farm garden. There is usually to be found around most farms some spare timber which would be suitable for studs up to 4ft. long and material suitable for top and bottom plates should be procurable. Sash bars, usually made from totara or redwood, would have to be bought.

The size of the glasshouse would be determined by the amount of propagation necessary to meet the plant requirements of the farm and other uses for which it might be found convenient. A house 20ft. x 10ft. would provide about 150 square feet of bench accommodation, with a comfortable working passageway between the benches. Provided the benches were made removable, a late crop of tomatoes might be grown in the centre of the house when plant growing was finished. From the brief particulars given above and the assistance of the accompanying diagrams it should be possible for interested gardeners to draft plans for a small glasshouse. ASPARAGUS GROWING FOR EX-SERVICEMEN AND OTHERS Many aspirants for “a life on the land” appear to think that asparagus growing offers unlimited possibilities at present. Though the financial commitments involved in the settlement and establishment of a settler on, say, 10 acres of land suitable for the production of asparagus and general horticulture cannot be dealt with here, an outline may be given of the cultural procedure necessary for the successful establishment of a commercial asparagus plantation. Areas planted in recent years are now producing asparagus which is being used for canning and to supply fresh fruit and vegetable markets. The retail price of asparagus might well lead a prospective grower to think that producers of asparagus must be reaping handsome financial returns and might induce an ex-serviceman to look around for land. He may be lucky enough to locate 10 acres suitable for the production of asparagus

and other horticultural crops which could be acquired in February. If the land is in pasture, so much the better. The first operation necessary is to skim plough the area intended for asparagus to a depth of 4 or sin. If plants, generally termed crowns, are to be purchased, these should be planted in August. Cutting spears is not recommended from the first year’s growth. Probably during late October or in November, 1948, a light cutting may be made, but cutting should not extend beyond two weeks. In the same months of 1949 the cutting of spears may be extended to, but not beyond, four weeks. From 1950 normal harvesting may continue for about two months. If crowns are grown by the settler, normal harvesting will not take place until 1951. Assuming production to be about 11 to 2 tons an acre, and that the grower’s principal market is a cannery which pays the usual rate of sd. a pound for asparagus, this would represent a gross income of between £7O and £9O an acre a year. This amount would be considerably reduced by costs of production. It has been estimated that the average net annual return is about £4O per acre. It is apparent, then, that asparagus growing can be most successfully carried on in conjunction with the production of other crops the harvesting of which is not necessary during the same period. COMPOSTING Skilful and enthusiastic propaganda has created during recent years a great deal of public enthusiasm for composting, exponents of which have claimed that, when judiciously used, it will restore fertility to soils reputed to have been “worked out,” or which, through the use of inorganic fertilisers, produce crops of inferior nutritional value.

Valuable work has been done, particularly in directing the attention of home gardeners to the composting of .organic substances which might otherwise be discarded or destroyed by burning.

Composting is a controversial subject, but mention of some salient points in composting organic substances may be of assistance to home gardeners who desire to have a reliable composted product for use among vegetable crops.

Making a compost heap has been defined as “a means of using to best advantage all waste material from crops grown in the garden ... putting together certain substances so that they may decompose, the residue being applied to the garden as a fertilising agent” (see Bulletin No. 229, “Vegetable Growing in the Home Garden”).

If, as is generally advocated, all crop remains should be used in a compost heap, and some of these are affected with disease, a certain temperature must be generated within the heap to destroy the fungi or bacteria which remain on the diseased material. This heat is generated by aerobic fermentation (induced by microbes living on free oxygen derived from air) . As most injurious bacteria are destroyed at a temperature of 140 degrees F., and insects, weed seeds, and fungi at 170 degrees F., it follows that the higher temperature must be' reached before the composted residue of the heap can be considered free of disease and safe for application to garden soil. It has been stated by competent authorities that a temperature of 180 degrees F. maintained for 10 minutes is necessary to ensure the destruction of all injurious fungi and bacteria in soil.

Unfortunately, much so-called compost is the residue of organic substance which is not the result of aerobic putrefaction. Residues of a compost heap the .organic substance of which has been mixed with diseased material and broken down by the process just referred to and in which insufficient heat, if any, has been generated cannot be free from disease, and must, when broadcast on the garden, be the means of further disease infection.

The importance of correct compost making should therefore be appreciated, and the process followed should not merely consist of piling up a heap of crop remains and other organic matter in a corner of the garden.

FRUIT AND VEGETABLE STORAGE

An announcement in the “Gardeners’ Chronicle” of March 16, 1946, that “Pliofilm,” a transparent ' wrapping material used in Great Britain during the war for packing aircraft engine parts and instruments, is shortly to be made available to the public in a form which can be used for storing garden produce should be of special interest to many home gardeners who may desire to store some of their surplus vegetables. It is reported that if a “Pliofilm” package is heated for a few seconds it will stretch, and the ends can be hermetically sealed. The substance is permeable to carbon dioxide and fresh garden produce enclosed in it should be preserved in fresh condition for a considerable period. If proved to be as successful as it is claimed to be, its use will be extended to many forms of fruits and vegetables, and, because of its simplicity, it promises to supersede other methods of preserving fruits by wrapping.

GARDENERS’ PROBLEMS ANSWERED

“Last year I had trouble with my carrots splitting. Can you tell me if there is anything I can do to prevent this with my present crop?”

Answer: Splitting of carrots is not caused either by fungi or bacteria, although after splitting the roots may be attacked. Splitting is a non-para-sitical disease, and is due to what is termed physiological disorganisation of the plant. Spring-sown crops are stated to suffer most, because early growth is generally restricted by dry conditions, and, if wet weather follows, the quick growth which takes place causes the prematurely-hardened outside skin to crack. During later development the split widens and deepens until sometimes the core becomes exposed. Roots from latesown seed are rarely seriously affected. “As the Minister of Agriculture has announced that potatoes from crops at present growing are not likely to be in plentiful supply, could you advise me the best way to protect my potato crop from blight?” Answer: At present the best known means of protecting potatoes against the disastrous effects of late blight is by spraying the haulms with Bordeaux mixture. This spray mixture is considered more effective when the copper sulphate is mixed with hydrated lime. In districts where humid weather conditions are frequent spraying becomes a necessity. As the bottom leaves are often first affected, the disease will not be readily seen after the foliage becomes interlaced across the rows. Spraying should therefore begin as

■ early as possible and continue every 'two weeks as long as it is practicable to get between the rows. For full i particulars of making and applying ; Bordeaux mixture see pages 40 and 41, 'Bulletin No. 229, “Vegetable Growing 'in the Home Garden,” obtainable from any office of the Department of Agriculture, post free, for sixpence. “I have been advised not to use superphosphate or sulphate of ammonia for my garden vegetables, as they are • dangerous. Can you advise me the safest manure to use?” Answer: The terms “dangerous” and . “safe” should not be considered : applicable to manures or fertilisers, except in the sense that any manure or fertilising agent is “dangerous” or “safe” according to the quantity applied at. any specified time. To particular crops at all times, and to all crops at particular times, certain fertilisers may be beneficial if properly applied in appropriate quantities. This, in the language of the question, would be considered “safe”; applied ’ otherwise the same . fertiliser would be termed “dangerous.” For general purposes in a vegetable garden blood and bone manure can be recommended as the “safest” fertilising agent to use. The moral should be plain: no manure or fertiliser can be considered “dangerous,” provided its use is properly understood.