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Work for February in The Home Garden

By

D. K. PRITCHARD,

Instructor in Vegetable Culture, Wellington.

DURING February, the main activities of every home gardener should be directed towards encouraging the development of all vegetable plants intended for late autumn, winter, and early spring consumption. Plants which may have been set out are savoy cabbage (early and late), cauliflower, broccoli, leeks, beetroot, carrots, parsnips, swedes, and tomatoes, as well as salad crops.

At time .of writing, indications are that attacks this season on plants of the cabbage family by the larvae of the white butterfly will not be as severe as they have been for the last few years. This is not meant to encourage wishful thinking or laxity in plant protection.

The dry weather usual in February particularly favours the destructive work of aphides on cabbages, etc., and home gardeners are reminded of the aphicidal value of “paranaph,” the formula for which is as follows: To 1 pint of water add 3|lb. of soap —soft soap is preferred. Simmer over a fire with constant stirring until all lumps have disappeared and a perfectly uniform melt has been obtained. Add 6oz. of naphthalene—refinedand stir until dissolved. Remove from the fire and add 1 pint kerosene. Stir until well mixed. The finished product should be semi-solid, and uniform in texture throughout.

It can be used at various strengths for aphides, scale insects, fleas in buildings, and dogs. It is also a very effective grease soap for cleansing the hands after they have been soiled with oily grease from handling machinery. The ingredients necessary to make the quantity indicated can be purchased retail for about 4/-, and used at a. strength of 2oz. to 1 gallon of water will cost approximately Id. to l|d. per gallon. In the home garden it can be used for the destruction of aphides on all members of the cabbage family and other plants affected by this pest. All the common sucking insects of the aphis type can be readily destroyed with paranaph at a strength of 1 to lg per cent, or 5 to Boz. to 3 gallons of water. Use soft water if possible. An advantage is that it can be applied at any time of the day, whether there is cloud or bright sunshine. Watering, too, is necessary during February. Plants should get a

thorough soaking. Surface watering induces shallow rooting, and, when the surface soil dries out, roots which have been attracted to the moisture are quickly destroyed.

Hoeing

When hand-hoeing cabbage, cauliflower and other tall-growing green vegetable crops the soil should be gradually drawn towards the stem of the plant. This is particularly necessary with heavy top-growing plants, such as broccoli and Brussels sprouts. Additional soil should be banked on the side of the stem opposite to the prevailing wind. Development of plants such as these is often seriously impaired through high winds breaking surface-feeding rootlets.

Tomatoes

From February, the main work with tomatoes will be spraying, pruning, and keeping plants closely tied to their supports, whether wire or stake. With upright plants, spraying and pruning are more easily and efficiently done. All surplus growth should be removed early as it tends to weaken the vigour of the plant. In addition, by early pruning, the surface exposed to attack by injurious fungi or bacteria is considerably smaller than when shoots are permitted to grow like leaders before being cut out.

Spraying should on no account be neglected. No spray seems less costly and more effective for control of late' blight on tomatoes than Bordeaux mixture—preferably home-made with copper sulphate (bluestone) and hydrated lime. Quick changes in weather necessitate efficient spraying at regular intervals of 10 to 14 days. Efficient spraying means covering the under side, as well as the top side, of the leaves with the mixture.

To protect fruit and plant from the ravages of chewing insects, arsenate of lead should be mixed with the spray. For tomatoes, mix arsenate of lead (powder) |oz. to 1 gallon, in a little water before adding to the mixture. This is a combination spray. When being applied, the utmost care should be taken to see that the stem of the plant as well as the fruit is well covered. Arsenate of lead is a stomach poison for chewing insects..

Leeks

The valuable winter and early spring vegetable, the leek, deserves

particular attention. With suitable growing conditions, it will be reasonably well developed before cold weather starts. The plants should be kept entirely clear of weeds as these are serious competitors for soil moisture in dry weather. The soil in which leeks are growing should not be allowed to dry, but good drainage is necessary when heavy watering is made. The soil, which should be kept highly fertile, will be assisted by regular applications of liquid manure. If no animal excreta is available for liquid manure, nitrate of soda may be dissolved—loz. in 4 gallons of water. Always apply liquid manure after copious watering.

Marrows

During prolonged periods of dry weather the foliage, of vegetable marrows is subject to attack by aphides. As soon as these pests are seen on the plants, the leaves should either be dusted with derris or sprayed with an aphicide such as nicotine sulphate or paranaph. Unless intended for stor-

age, fruits should be cut from the plant before reaching maturity.

Pumpkins and Squash

The advice about marrows is applicable to all members of the gourd family. It is suggested, however, that where possible, because of their value as a late winter vegetable, all fruits should be permitted to fully mature before harvesting. This particularly applies to long-keeping varieties.

Silver Beet

February is the best month to transplant silver beet plants so that they may be fairly well grown before their development is hampered by wintry weather. While the soil in which the plants are to be grown should be fertile, inorganic nitrogenous fertilisers cannot .be recommended, for plants set out in February. Blood and bone manure, which is the safest fertiliser to use at this season, should be applied as a surface dressing at the rate of 2oz. per square yard of the . bed. It is best worked into the top soil before setting out the plants. Over-crowding, bad practice at any time, is particularly .so in autumn planting. Rows should not be spaced less than 20in. apart and the plants 10 to 12in. in the row. The variety Broad White Rib (dark curled Savoy leaf) is specially recommended.

Spring Cabbage

Seed sowing of cabbage for spring cutting should not be delayed longer

than the end of February. Flower of Spring is the main variety grown in the principal vegetable-growing areas in the South Island, and as far north as the centre of the North Island. Further north, for early spring harvesting, a variety of Henderson’s Succession is more popular. As this is a drumhead type, plants should not be set as close as those of the smaller pointed head variety.

Rhubarb The stalks and leaves of spring and summer varieties of rhubarb will now have completely died down. It will be necessary to give the bed a cleanup to prevent the dormant crowns from being overgrown with weeds which, if permitted to grow, will rob the roots of much needed moisture. Moist soil is necessary for . rhubarb root development. Principally during the absence of top growth, the plant food is stored in the rooting system for the next, season’s crop. Roots should not be transplanted at present. Other varieties of rhubarb, such as Everbearing, Myatts . Victoria, or Crimson Winter, should also be kept clear of weed growth. An application to each crown of two handfuls of blood and bone manure and the same amount of wood ashes would. be beneficial. This would provide a reserve of plant food from which the roots would derive the nutrients for the following crop.

Carrots In northern districts there may still be time to sow seed of a stump-rooted carrot which will be well grown before the cold weather starts. In gardens where the carrot rust-fly is prevalent, there is little danger of the young roots being attacked. Large roots cannot be expected from such a late sowing, but they should be useable. Roots will be more acceptable if free from damage by this soil pest, which in some areas is menacing carrot production. Lettuce Lettuce seed may now be sown to obtain plants for setting out as soon as they are fully grown. For this planting, good, rich soil is essential to encourage quick growth. Plants set out in March will develop quickly and can be used over a longer period than if sown earlier. Success is a variety recommended.

DON’T overlook harvesting shallots during February. The bulbs should be removed, left to dry, and then stored in a cool, dry shed. DON’T continue to water onions. Abundant moisture at the roots will induce continued vegetative growth which destroys good-keeping quality. DON’T let potatoes remain on the soil overnight after digging. This practice invites attack by the potato tubermoth.

This article text was automatically generated and may include errors. View the full page to see article in its original form.
Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/periodicals/NZJAG19460115.2.61

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 72, Issue 1, 15 January 1946, Page 83

Word Count
1,508

Work for February in The Home Garden New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 72, Issue 1, 15 January 1946, Page 83

Work for February in The Home Garden New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 72, Issue 1, 15 January 1946, Page 83

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