Guide for the Home Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 67, Issue 1, 15 July 1943, Page 55

Guide for the Home Garden

A Planned Garden Increases Production

“Production on farms is as vital as arms.” V /ELL after all I appreciate the W fact that we farmers don’t know quite everything, or perhaps as much as we should know, concerning the production of vegetable crops,” said the farmer to the visiting officer of the Department of Agriculture, while working in his garden. “I have had a talk with two of my neighbours, both of whom you visited recently, and from what I gathered we think it might be as good for us, as it undoubtedly would be for your Department, if interested farmers could conveniently arrange meetings for the purpose of discussing problems associated with vegetable production. An officer could be invited to attend and perhaps take part in any discussions which arose.” The visiting officer readily agreed that the suggestion was well worthy of some consideration. He remarked that, from the point of view of the ordinary citizen, of conditions obtaining in the Dominion at the present time, it seemed as if an appreciable increase in the supply of vegetables during the 1943-44 producing season would be an urgent necessity.

It was suggested that consideration might well be given by farmers to the production of certain vegetables which would be required in more than usual supplies. This, it was stated, would necessarily depend on the availability of suitable land. Before parting with the farmer-gardener, the officer intimated that, should the matter of holding meetings be favourably discussed, and the presence of an officer from the Department of Agriculture desired, a note addressed to the Director, Horticulture Division, Department of Agriculture, P.O. Box 3004, Wellington, would be appreciated. “It’s a principal with me, if you have an idea that you carry it out.” (Dickens). Plan Your Garden It hardly seems necessary to suggest that during early August preparations should be made for gardening operations in relation to vegetables for the coming season, and the first essential is— plan. Without a garden plan the work performed will, more or less, be of an indiscriminate nature. The plan should not be decided upon or adopted merely to suit one’s convenience, but should, preferably, be based upon

past experience and recognised sound cultural practices. Reflections should be made on whether the type of garden soil was right for the crops that were grown. If an early variety of potato has been grown, better results might have been obtained, if seed for a main or late crop had been planted. For cabbages, was the soil too light for a main crop, and did it dry out too quickly to prevent proper maturity? Was the carrot bed attacked by the carrot rustfly last season? If so, does the garden plan provide for carrots to be grown this season as far removed as possible from the area occupied last season by this crop? Were late spring cabbages

planted in a low-lying part of the garden so that many of the outside and main wrapper leaves became affected with yellow spots of varying sizes, and is it planned to use a more suitable part of the garden during the coming season? Were climbing beans responsible last season for unduly shading another crop, and has a more suitable site been chosen on which to grow beans during the coming season? These, and many more questions, should be asked and answered. Planning of the garden will lead to greater efficiency and economy in production, and this applies equally to the home gardener as well as to the commercial

vegetable producer. It should be recognised that ' whatever success is achieved during the forthcoming growing season, it will in a great measure be due to the manner in which preparatory work has been carried out. - “Dig for Victory” The necessity of more and still more vegetables is again stressed. When it is realised that in the recently bombed areas of the City of London there are, in 'parts which have been cleared of debris, several thousands of vegetable-producing plots, it might be appreciated to what extent crops could be grown on many available parts of the Dominion. The Will to Win in Great Britain has been translated into the “Dig for Victory” campaign. A similar campaign has been launched throughout New Zealand, and “Dig for Victory” applies not only to the city or suburban resident, but to all who have available space which could be utilised for the production of vegetable crops. An appropriate slogan for the coming season would therefore be: “Better planning for better production of bigger and better crops.” Spinach A supply of this vegetable can be easily maintained by regular and timely sowings made at three weekly intervals. For quick and tender growth, nitrogen as a fertiliser is necessary,

and once the young plants are about half grown liquid manure, particularly rich in nitrogen, will assist early maturity. In the absence of nitrate of soda, poultry manure in the liquid form will be a good substitute. This manure should, however, be gathered dry and kept dry, so that its nitrogen content in the form of ammonia will be preserved. Lettuce If the early-grown lettuce plants have not yet been set out, this should be attended to without delay. The soil in the bed must not be allowed to become “set.” Shallow cultivation is necessary in order that the soil may absorb all the warmth available. Cabbage Allow plenty of air to circulate among the seedlings growing in the bed; they should be fully exposed to sun and wind during the day, even if protection is considered necessary at night where weather conditions are somewhat , severe. Shallots The food and domestic value of this vegetable of the onion species is, perhaps, not as well known or as highly appreciated as it might be. If it were, it would undoubtedly be allotted a more important place and a greater area in the home gardener’s operations As to its food value compared with the onion, it is authoritatively stated to contain, weight for weight, three times as much nitrogen, two and a half times the amount of minerals, half as much again the quantity of phosphates, and rather more potash, two and a half times as much sulphur, and what is perhaps of the greatest importance of all, getting on for three times as much iron.

Particular attention paid to the crop during the growing period will be amply rewarded, as prolific producing varieties will return a harvest of from five to twenty-fold. A good rich loam into which, the previous autumn, has been dug a liberal dressing of wellrotted stable or farmyard manure will make good soil conditions for planting the bulbs. Should this

manure not be available, dried blood or blood and bone, applied at the rate of 3oz per square yard, after digging and well worked into the top soil, will be suitable. As soon as active growth begins, liquid manure may be applied two or three times. Continued use of this fertiliser will be, injurious to the keeping quality of the bulbs. Planting should take place early in August, and, set in rows 12 inches apart, with 8 inches between the bulbs, sufficient space will thus be allowed

for development. When planting, the bulbs should merely be pressed on top of the ground so that they will remain in an upright position; rooting will start almost immediately. Cultivation should be directed mainly towards weed control, and must never be deep, merely surface hoeing. Although part of the crop may be ready for use during late December, harvesting, under normal conditions, will take place during late January and February. Careful handling of the bulbs is necessary during curing and for future use. They should, preferably, be stored where plenty of fresh air is constantly circulating. With the exercise of proper care during harvesting and storage, shal- , lots will keep well on towards the end of the year in which they are harvested. Onions August is generally recognised as the most appropriate time for transplanting onion seedlings to the place in the garden where they will grow to maturity. The soil, it is assumed, has been dug early and well prepared. Failing a supply of well-rotted farmyard manurethan which there is nothing better for onionsbone dust is recognised in commercial production . as being the best of the mixed fertilisers. Applied at the rate of 3-4 ozs. per square yard, half the quantity may be dug in when the soil is being turned over. A top dressing of wood ashes will serve to replace potash, which is scarce and expensive. To obtain the desirable conditions necessary for good onion production, the soil should be worked down to a fine tilth and the seed bed made firm. Provided digging has been completed some time previous to planting, this soil condition will obtain. The seedlings when removed may be placed in a bunch, held tightly in the hand, and the roots trimmed evenly to 1J inches

from the bulb end. The tops, also, may be trimmed back, but not far enough to damage the apicle bud or growing point. Rows 12 inches apart and five plants to the foot in the row will produce onions of a suitable size for ordinary use and good storage. Rhubarb Constant shallow hoeing is necessary in order to keep weeds under control. During periods of high humidity it may be desirable to remove weeds by hand and throw them on the compost heap. To give of their best weeds must not be permitted to rob the plants of valuable nutrients.

Asparagus August is the best month for establishing a new bed. If crowns have to be bought from a nursery, one-year-old plants should be obtained. Either Mary Washington or Martha Washington will be a suitable variety, as both are rust' resistant. Artichokes (Jerusalem) Where a spare part of the garden may be available tubers of this vege-

table can be planted in rows 3 ft. apart, with 18 inches between the sets. Although excellent returns on good garden soil will be secured, whole or cut seed will give compensating yields on relatively poor soil. Over applications of fertilisers,, particularly nitrogenous, will produce top . growth at the expense of tubers. Times of Planting Information has been requested with regard to the relative months in New Zealand to those indicated in publications concerning gardening practices in Great Britain and U.S.A. Following is the acknowledgment: — Great Britain and New Zealand. U.S.A. January July February August March September April October May November June ' December July January August February September March October April November May December June To readily obtain the exact month by comparison, six months should be counted after that indicated. Thus, if September is referred to in a publication from the respective countries referred to, March would be the relative month in New. Zealand. —D. K. PRITCHARD, Instructor in Vegetable Culture, Wellington.

Phenothiazine

THE effectiveness of phenothiazine against the various types of internal parasites of livestock, together with details of the dosage rates, are contained in the free bulletin No. 189 obtainable from the Department of Agriculture at Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and Dunedin.

Doni’s

Don’t ' overlook regular inspection of vegetables in store. ■ Disease spreads rapidly among vegetables stored in bulk. Don’t delay the purchase of seed requirements until they are actually required. You may suffer disappointment. Don’t walk around the garden looking for something to do. Ask the “other half” about it, you’ll get a job alright. Don’t forget to “Keep the Garden Soil Turning.” (A new adaption of an old theme).

SEEDS TO SOW DURING AUGUST. Cape Gooseberries: In favourable localities seed may be sown for transplanting when danger of frost is over. Capsicum: Remarks on Cape Gooseberry apply. Turnips must be used when roots are suitable size. Swedes: Same as turnips. Lettuce: For succession planting. Potatoes: Where danger of frost is past. ' Spring Onions. Parsnip: For mid-summer use. Tomatoes: Seed may be sown where early planting can be adopted.