Guide for the Home Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 66, Issue 2, 15 February 1943, Page 109

Guide for the Home Garden

The Garden A Vegetable Factory

X 7EGETABLES, as essential human crops in any locality where cold ternVEGETABLES, as essential human crops in any locality where cold ternfood, call for more than casual P eratures generally prevail.

consideration when their production is contemplated. So many factors have to be taken into account that hasty decisions may easily lead to undesirable and disappointing results.

The first, and perhaps the most important factor is the soil, its nature, and physical structure. Also of importance is its degree of fertility, which has a direct relationship to its humus and calcium content, and generally what may be termed its available plant food.

“Crop Mining”

Under conditions of economic stress “crop mining” may sometimes be resorted to. Literally, this term—“crop mining”—means taking as much as possible out of the soil without returning the plant foods removed by the crops during their period of growth and development. This cultural practice cannot be too strongly condemned. So far as is practicable, when intensive crop production is carried on, replacement of the plant nutrients in the soil should be attended to as early as possible after the crop has been harvested. Vegetables of high quality cannot be produced on impoverished land, nor is it likely that the desired quantity can be maintained. Soil used for continuous vegetable production should be maintained at a high fertility level, and where no stable or farmyard manure is available the practice of growing green crops for subsequent diggingin is recommended.

For the production of the necessary quantity of high quality produce, the garden might be looked upon as a vegetable factory. If this view is taken —and the simile is an appropriate onethe value of the produce will be in relation to the degree of efficiency maintained.

Climate

Next to the soil, climatic conditions must be considered. All varieties of vegetables cannot be successfully produced under similar conditions. Spring and savoy cabbages, for best production, require cool temperatures, while relatively warm conditions are desirable for summer varieties. Lettuce, which by the adoption of proper cultural practices may be grown quite satisfactorily during summer, is essentially a cool weather vegetable. Spinach, during warm weather, has a distinct tendency to “bolt” to seed. Tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers are risky

Cost of Production

So far as the production of vegetables in the home garden is concerned, this expression—cost of production —may be quite easily misunderstood. When purchases are made from a vendor, it should not be overlooked that all costs which may occur after the produce leaves the grower, are generally paid by the consumer. When vegetables are produced in one’s own garden, the main costs are for seeds, manure, and for plant protection specifics. As against these costs there is the added privilege of obtaining supplies of fresh vegetables whenever they are desired, and it is recognised that vegetables fresh from the garden are then at the peak of their nutritional value. Area of Garden The area of land necessary to supply a given number of people with sufficient vegetables to meet ordinary domestic demands is a much disputed point. It has, however, been reliably estimated that J-acre properly cultivated would be sufficient to provide adequate supplies for six persons. In any discussion on the size of a garden it should be remembered that a wellkept small area is better than a neglected large area. Profitable Vegetables While there are certain varieties of vegetables which may be looked upon as a basic necessity for consumption, the home gardener will be guided in his production programme mainly by family requirements. Generally, however, and particularly where the area of land is not extensive, the choice of vegetables to grow should be restricted to those which will be most beneficial to the persons who may consume them. On small gardens, annual crops which may require six months, and even longer to reach maturity, and then are quickly cut out, may not be as profitable to grow as quick-maturing crops. Again, crops which may occupy a given area for the above-mentioned time, and when harvested remain in consumable condition for some months longer, will be profitable to produce.

The month of March will see most of the garden vegetable crops well on the way to maturity.

Cauliflowers

These will be in their final stages of growth before harvesting. Provided self-protecting varieties - have been grown, the curds will not be so readily exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to light results in discoloration, quickly followed by loosening and opening up of the heads, thus making them unfit for table use, but still capable of being used for pickling. It is recommended that this crop be completely removed before frosts begin. Subject to frosts, cauliflowers rapidly deteriorate and are quickly spoiled. Maturing cauliflower curds when not immediately required for use may be protected by tying the long outside leaves loosely together. This may be done with strands of flax or string. A rubber band cut from an old motor tube and slipped over the tips of the leaves may be used. A quicker method, but not quite so effective, is to crack the main rib of the larger outside leaves and bend them over the curd.

What to Do in the Home Garden Next Month

Summary of Operations During March

SUCCESSIONAL SOWINGS. Peas (dwarf), lettuce, radish. OTHER SOWINGS. Carrots (Scarlet Horn, Earlykrop), onions (Pukekohe Longkeeper), swedes (Success, Superlative), spinach Prickly), endive, beetroot.

CROPS IN SEASON. (The month in brackets represents the month of sowing). Lettuce (June, to harvest late Oct.-Nov.), cucumbers (Sept., Oct.), celery (Sept.), egg plant (Oct.), spring onions (Mar.), marrows (in pots under glass, later transplanted in the open, late Aug.), pumpkins (outside Sept., Oct.), beans (Sept., Oct., Nov., according to district). Potatoes. digging main crop, select seed and store separately, later to be placed in seedling boxes.

Broccoli

’, This vegetable is generally much hardier than cauliflower, and from the colour of the curd of modern varieties is difficult to distinguish from the latter vegetable. Liquid manure applied after liberal watering will assist the plants to maintain their vigorous growth. The aim should be to main-, tain the foliage in a dark green condition. Leaves kept in this colour indi- . cate healthy and vigorous growth. Winter Cabbage Early plantings should now be making hearts, but at this stage close attention to the probable depredations of caterpillars is necessary. Whether using nicotine sulphate, arsenate of lead or derris, the hearts should be particularly attended to. Once these pests gain access to the heart of the plant, destruction of this edible part is assured. Liquid manurial treatment, as advised for broccoli, will be suitable for winter cabbages. Tomatoes The importance of the greatest possible attention being paid to tomato plants which should now be bearing ripe fruit is again stressed. Too much reliance should not be placed on obtaining adequate requirements from markets at glut season prices. Conditions obtaining in the Dominion at present will not justify this expectation, consequently it becomes more than ever necessary to endeavour to prolong the producing season. . This can best be accomplished by closely observing the condition of the plants during fruit bearing and harvesting. \ , As soon as the second truss is ripening, and the tomatoes remaining on the vines do not indicate signs of developing into ordinary size fruits, more fertiliser should be applied, watered in and the soil round the plants hoed at a •shallow, depth. Liquid manuring every week —after wateringwill materially assist the plants to maintain growth, and produce * their greatest yield of fruit. Remove, the surplus shoots as soon as. they appear, as these grow at the expense of the development of the main plant. Pick all tomatoes whenever colouring. begins. This will con-

serve the vigour of the plants and prevent destruction of the fruits by birds. Kumeras As soon as the vines begin to spread they will tend to root at the nodes. This rooting should be prevented, and is best done by occasionally lifting the vines clear of the ground. Where rooting has already, taken place, no attempt should be made to tug the roots , clear of the soil. These should be cut with a sharp knife. Leaf destruction by grubs is sometimes met with in this crop; but the application of a spray consisting of 1| oz; of arsenate of lead powder to 5 gals, of water will usually be effective as a destroying agent. Sweet Corn Cobs of these plants should be pulled and cooked when young and tender. This condition is known as the milk stage of development. With the possible exception of asparagus, no crop,, after harvesting, deteriorates faster than sweet corn. The best indication that the crop is ready for harvesting is when the “tassel”the tip of the husk —becomes withered.. Onions When the foliage has completely died down the bulb may be lifted and left to dry on the ground for two or three days If wet or damp.conditions obtain at harvest time, it would be advisable to remove the crop to a wooden bench or verandah where the onions will be exposed to the drying action of the sun and . wind. Under these conditions the ■ bulbs will . ripen properly, and with the roots removed and the tops remaining they can be “strung” by twisting the tops, around a piece of wire or heavy binder twine and hung in a shed through which a good current of fresh air passes constantly. Spring Cabbage

s During the latter part ; of February or. early Marchearlier in Canterbury and further southseed of cabbages for use in early spring may be sown. A seedling box can be used, but should not be less than six inches deep, this depth being necessary to permit full development of the' rooting system.'

The soil should be a -good compost mixture preferably sterilised with which has been incorporated a handful of bonedust. The seed can be sown in shallow drills, and covered with soil of a similar composition to that used for propagation. When the sowing operation has been completed the surface soil should be pressed gently, but firmly, with a short piece of dressed timber. The box can then be covered with a double sheet of papernewspaper will be appropriate • —and placed’ in a shady position. Should the top soil tend to become dry —a condition which will inhibit good germination by soaking the box in a tub of water. If this is not practicable, cover the soil with a piece of sacking, and water with a “rose” attached to a watering can. This method will prevent the seed being washed to the surface of the soil where germination is likely to be seriously impaired, if not entirely prevented. The paper should be replaced after watering, but must be removed immediately germination begins. Almost from the time the young plants appear, they will require to be protected from aphis and caterpillar attacks. Dusting or spraying with nicotine sulphate, , arsenate of lead or derris will afford adequate protection. The variety recommended is Flower of Spring.

—D. K. PRITCHARD,

Vegetable Culture, Wellington.

Instructor in

Careless Handling of Pigs

Concern is felt in many quarters at the prevalence of bruises and weals on various parts of the skin •of < pigs. Farmers, dealers and carriers should do their utmost to avoid causing skin blemishes, which may bring about the degrading of otherwise prime porker or baconer carcasses. Much can be done by a little more care and patience, the use of a proper yard and loading race, and the absolute prohibition of rough handling, stock whips and sticks. All engaged in the handling of pigs should obtain a copy of the Department’s free bulletin (No. 175) on this subject.