How Does Your Garden Grow?

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 64, Issue 2, 16 February 1942, Page 146

How Does Your Garden Grow?

WHAT a joy it is to Mr. Hyde that so many of you are enjoying and making good use of his Garden Notes each month. Every mail seems to bring me fresh letters of appreciation from one or another of you, and if you keep on following his good advice, your efforts will be well repaid. This month Mr. Hyde advises you to look ahead to the spring by planting your bulbs and other spring flowers, and by giving careful attention to your lawns.—MAßY.

'KTEW lawns may be sown down now, or, if the area is moderate, turfing is a good quick method. In doing this, the first requirement is a clean, smooth surface of even density at the required level. This is obtained only with considerable labour and care, but sowing down should not be done until it is achieved. If the land after cultivation is allowed to lie and settle down for a few weeks, it consolidates with the least amount of labour, and if light cultivation is done at intervals seedling weeds are destroyed. During the process perennial weeds will make sufficient growth to indicate their identity and position so that removal is facilitated. It is essential that the surface should be at the right elevation and grade, for in the final result appearance and maintenance are much superior where this is properly done. A high verge to the lawn is rarely required, although in the case of a heavy, strong soil such a verge is sometimes cut with a view to avoiding strong growth which may efface the outline. Light land will absorb storm water quickly, but in. other cases the grade should be sufficient to run the water off promptly into suitable water tables, sumps, and . culverts. Neglect

of this precaution is common, and the result is badly-drained areas in walks and lawns and local subsidences, which are. unpleasant in every way. When a clean, smooth surface at the right level is at last obtained, it is usually best to work in a light dressing of fertiliser before sowing down the lawn during a period when no wind is blowing. Equal quantities of superphosphate and sulphate of ammonia is very ... commonly a suitable mixture, applied at the rate of 1 oz. to the square yard and worked in by means of shallow cultivation. A grass seed mixture for fine lawns which has

given great satisfaction, in many localities is one part of Government certified browntop to two parts of - New Zealand Chewing’s fescue sown at the rate of about 1 oz. to the square yard. Other lawn mixtures are available from local seedsmen who have made a study of the special requirements of the particular district. When the seed is sown it should be raked in evenly with a clean, sharp rake without alteration to the surface levels obtained. It should then be left until germination has taken place. . When 2 or 3 inches of growth have been made it is ready for cutting. Where small areas are being dealt with, good turf laid on the smooth graded surface of the soil will soon take root at this season, or at most periods during the winter and early spring, and the desired result, or at least the effect, is obtained at once. The main requirement in this method is reasonably, good turf closely mown, which, however, may be expected to show great improvement under a system of regular cutting and attention. The turfs are. about a foot, square and

of even thickness, and are laid with broken joints. Thickness is adjusted -by laying them, with the surface down, in a mould and removing the surplus soil with a two-handed knife. In the established garden dahlias will .be at their best, chrysanthemums approaching that state, and some bedding plants past it. Hydrangeas, fuchsias, and Anemone japonica will be a making a good display, together with trees and shrubs noted for coloured autumn foliage or berries. As bedding plants go off, the beds and borders concerned may be trenched and generously manured in preparation for planting with bulbs and other herbaceous plants, such as wallflowers, pansies, primroses, mysotis, anemones, ranunculus, crocus, and other springflowering favourites, which 7 may be planted now as soon as the preparation of the land is completed. In warm situations, lachenalias, freezias, amaryllis, and muscari make a notable display, and in other districts generous areas in narcissus, lencojums (snowflakes), . and ' scillas ' (bluebells) are easily naturalised in the outskirts of the garden, giving an excellent return for little labour. Sowings of cornflowers, larkspurs) shirley poppies, and sweet peas may be made, and cuttings taken of pentstemons, violas, marguerites, pansies, heliotrope, ageratum, etc., in pots x or boxes in a cold frame; this, however, should be attempted only if considerable time can be given to shading, ventilation, and watering. Lift and plant lilies, , and remove the runners from violets. Pots of winter-flowering zonal geraniums should be washed and taken into the house and given a light,, airy position— sun porch is ideal.

WM. C. HYDE,

Horticulturist, Wellington.

What To Do During March. Sow or turf down new lawns. Plant out bulbs and other herbaceous plants which bloom in the spring. Sow sweet peas and other hardy annuals for early flowering. .. ’ Continue to take cuttings of herbaceous plants. Pots of winter-flowering geraniums should be washed and. taken into the house.