Guide for the Home Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 64, Issue 2, 16 February 1942, Page 131

Guide for the Home Garden

Autumn Sowing and Core of Plants

TOMATO plants which have-been I well grown should now be supplying the family requirements of tomatoes, and, with proper attention, will continue to do so for some considerable time. . Warm days, cool nights with heavy dews, followed by occasional periods of high humidity, make it imperative that spraying the plants , with Bordeaux mixture should be . attended to if the profitable life of the plants is to be prolonged. Home gardeners would do well to note that commercial plantings of tomatoes have not increased this season, and, although there may be a short period of plentiful supplies available in the auction markets, prices can rea-

sonably be expected to be above normal. . For those . who value homeproduced tomatoes, there should not be any doubt as to the necessity for maintaining their plants in the best possible condition. - The suggestions made in the January issue of the “Journal” concerning liquid manuring should be - adopted, and all surplus growths removed from the plants.' Hoeing always shallow for weed destruction . and to assist in the conservation of soil moisture must not be neglected.

Seeds to Sow In March

Sowings , may still be made of' lettuce, silver beet, spinach, and, in warm districts, carrots. Plants of the first two vegetables may be sown in a seedling box, but, when transplanted, all the plants should be grown on raised beds. This will afford the necessary drainage for excessive rain. It cannot be too strongly emphasised that vegetable plants will not give best results in badly-drained soil.

Lettuce may be planted in rows 12 inches apart, and for a winter crop, 10 inches will be sufficient space be-

tween the plants. The rows of silver beet should be 15 inches wide and the plants spaced 10 inches apart. ' • Seed of spinach may be sown in rows 12 inches apart, and a distance of 10 inches .allowed between rows of carrots. ' ' Varieties recommended are: —- , . Lettuce.—-Neapolitan (winter special), Wonderful '(winter special)'. ' .. Silver ■ Beet.— White Ribbed. . Spinach.— (winter) ; Round (summer) . ' . . . - Carrots.Earlykrop, Early Shorthorn) . The carrot bed will, of necessity, not occcupy the same part of the garden as that in which the previous crop of this vegetable was grown. Two-year rotation is good, but a three-year rotation is better. , Provided the- carrot seed is sown on the land previously occupied by potatoes,, sufficient plant nutrient residues should be still remaining in the soil to satisfy the fertiliser requirements of the carrot bed. Blood . and bone > manure is suitable for lettuce and, silver beet, but, should this not-be available, poultry or sheep manure will be quite' satisfactory . substitutes. These, however, must be applied ,in a perfectly dry condition, preferably after . the garden is dug, and .then thoroughly incorporated with the soil. ■ '' , " > Spinach must be well and quickly grown to be obtained in its best and most , succulent condition, . and, to achieve this, the use of quick-acting fertilisers is necessary. If available, mix 2 parts superphosphate and 1 part’ sulphate of ammonia—both measured by weightand, as soon as the plants

attain a height of 1 to 2 inches, apply at the rate of 1 lb. to 30 feet of row. Care must be taken to ensure that none of the fertiliser comes in contact with the foliage of the plants. Should this occur, much damage will, result and the immediate growth of the plants seriously impeded. The fertiliser must be immediately worked into

the . soil, and subsequent weekly dressings of liquid manure must be applied to assist quick development of the crop (see January' issue of the “Journal” for remarks on liquid manure).

Beans and Peas

To obtain the maximum crop from beans and peas it is necessary that the pods should be kept closely picked and that none are allowed to ripen until it is decided to retain sufficient from which seed may be saved for sowing next season. Picking • the. beans when they are young will prolong the profitable bear-

ing life of the vine, and, should their use ' at the time • of harvesting be inconvenient, they can be very easily preserved for winter use. ’ '

Cabbage, Cauliflower And Broccoli

Given favourable weather conditions, the caterpillars of the white butterfly will for the next two months be very active in destructive work, particularly among members of the cabbage family. Nicotine sulphate, arsenate of lead and derris, either as „ a . dust or spray, will prove effective ; destroying , agents. When the spraying or dusting of plants is being carried out, it is important that the centre of all plants receives full treatment. If this is not attended to, the caterpillars 'will destroy, the principal growing part of the vegetable. Weekly applications of liquid manure will materially assist in,maintaining vigorous and healthy growth.

Harvesting Onions

Unless there is prolonged wet weather when onions are due, or almost due, to be harvested, bending the tops in order to induce ripening is not recommended. If it is at all possible, the onions should be permitted to ripen naturally and then pulled out of the soil. This is easily done, as the roots have almost lost their grip. Should the soil be damp when the onions are removed, place them on a

verandah, preferably with a northern or north-westerly aspect. Left here for a few days, they will ripen firmly, after which, if it is intended to store them, the tops and roots may be removed. Provided the tops are not disturbed, they may be twined ( round a piece of heavy binder twine and “locked” by the weight of the bulb. This operation completed, the onions should be hung in a shed or outhouse, where they will not be liable to become moist with rain, and where there' is good air circulation. Treated in this manner, the best keeping strains of Pukekohe Longkeeper onions will remain in good condition until the following October or November, and even longer.

D. K. PRITCHARD,

Instructor:, in

Vegetable Culture, Wellington.

When In Trouble When results from sowing your own seeds and growing your own plants are unsatisfactory and you are worrying over the probable cause, why not consign your troubles to the Director of the Horticulture Division, P.O. Box 3004, Wellington? He may be able to assist you. Write him now.

Seasonal Don'ts Don’t • put off till tomorrow what can be done today. Procrastination is the thief of time. Don’t neglect spraying or dusting Flower of Spring ■ cabbage seedlings with an insecticide. This is the - most highly prized and valuable early spring green vegetable. , ' . • Don’t ■ ' omit to lay the foundation of the compost heap in March. 1 ( ) Don’t delay early preparation of your onion bed. Onion seed should be sown in the South Island in early March; late March or early April in the North Island. , '

What to Do in the Home Garden Next Month

Summary of Operations During March

VEGETABLE SECTION. SUCCESSIONAL, SOWINGS. Peas (dwarf lata Feb.); lettuce; radish (long scarlet). OTHER SOWINGS. Carrots (Earlykrop, Scarlet Hom); turnips (Snowball, Model White); endive (green curled); onions (Pukekohe Longkeeper); spinach (Pricklylong-standing); swede (Superlative, Success). Asparagus. all top growth as soon as ripe. Rhubarb. out seed stalks close to base. If available, spread a mulch of stable manure. CROPS IN SEASON. (The month in brackets represents the month of sowing the seed.) Lettuce (May, late spring cutting); radish (almost all the year round) ; sweet corn (late spring and summer); tomatoes, outside-grown (early, mid Aug.; late, early Oct.); celery (early Sept.) cucumbers (Sept.); spring onions (Mar.) capsicum (Aug.) egg plant (Oct.).

OTHER CROPS. Beans, marrows and pumpkina (late Oct. and Nor.); spinach (almost any month); roots (Feb.-Mar.); carrots and parsnips (Sept.-Oct. maincrop). / r ; s GLASSHOUSE, SECTION. Every glasshouse tomato-grower must determine, according to his own requirements, at what stage of maturity his green manure crop may be dug into the soil. Light soils will be better improved if the green material is permitted to grow as long as possible in the green condition. There will be a greater volume of plant growth to dig in which will increase the organic content of the soil, thereby providing the medium of greater water-retaining capacity. If it is desired to produce resistant fibrous material which will better loosen the soil, the green crop should be allowed to grow as near to complete maturity as is consistent with the necessary preliminary preparations for the next succeding crop.