Guide for the Home Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 64, Issue 1, 15 January 1942, Page 60

Guide for the Home Garden

Seasonal Doni's Don’t turn under perennial weeds. Dig them out and burn them. Don’t allow any part of the. garden to be without a crop. If not planted w'th a vegetable crop, dig over and sow to a cover crop. When dug, the humuscontent of the soil will be increased and depleted fertility restored.

February Work in the Home Garden

THE time is now approaching when the first fruits of the outdoor tomato vines will be ripening. In gardens where there is abundant cover for birds, particularly thrushes and blackbirds, tomatoes should be removed as soon as they begin to change colour; if not, the birds will destroy them by picking into one after another of the whole truss. The change is determined by the natural green colour of the fruit turning to that of a slight yellow-red, but however little the change in colour, the tomato, if removed from the vine, will ripen. When picked in this colour-changing condition, fruit should not be placed at a window or any situation exposed to the fierce heat of the sun. Placed in or on a kitchen dresser away from the strong sunlight, but where a reasonably comfortable temperature obtains, the tomato will mature perfectly. As soon as the bottom truss of fruit has been removed, regular weekly applications of liquid manure may be necessary to maintain balanced growth of the plant while the remainder of the crop is developing. To secure

maximum results, regular cultivation and spraying are essential. Removal of bottom leaves from the plant will do no harm, provided the fruit is not unduly exposed. Should the foliage midway up the main stem appear to be too dense, a few of the larger leaves, at intervals, may be cut out. The practice of almost denuding the plant of foliage should not be adopted, as this will tend to produce a tough outside skin on the tomatoes, and will considerably impair the flavour. Spring Cabbage Seed should now be sown for Sutton’s Flower of Spring cabbages for spring cutting. If sown in rows in a seedling box, sufficient plants can be raised to satisfy the requirements of most home gardeners. As soon as the young plants appear above the soil protective measures must be taken to combat the activities of the cabbage fly and caterpillars. During February these two omnivorous pests are very destructive, and the use of one or more insecticides is specially recommended. Nicotine sulphate, arsenate of lead (powder form), and Derris should be used as directed by the instructions, which are usually printed on the container. If nicotine sulphate is used, it .is advisable to apply it during the hottest part of the day. Pumpkins When the runners of pumpkins and other gourds have reached . a length of 4 ft. the centre growth may be cut out. The result will be the production of more laterals, with a consequent increase in the crop. . As pumpkins, etc., are gross feeders, increased and vigorous growth may be expected from weekly applications of liquid manure. To obtain a ripe crop for winter storage, the plants must be induced to develop the gourds as quickly as practicable so that maturity may be reached while the weather is favourable for good growth. As large, heavy pumpkins will sometimes start to rot while resting on the ground, it is advisable, where possible, to rest them on a piece of wood. If, however, the plants are trained on a wire fence (as. is often done) the gourds can be suspended by strips of flax or ' binder twine. The plants are likely to be attacked by aphis, particularly during prolonged spells of dry weather. These

insects usually appear after mid-sea-son, ' but soon enough to impair the productiok of a full crop. Indications of the presence of aphis are manifested by the curling of the leaves, which turn to a brown withering colour and die. Control is effected by the use of nicotine sulphate, either as a spray or as a dust. Potatoes and Savoy Cabbages Matured potato crops may now be dug, and, in favourable localities, it is not too late to set out a few wellgrown savoy cabbage plants. If it is not convenient to dig and store the potatoes, the tops may be cut off and

the cabbage plants set between. the rows. Should this be doneand it is quite practicable— must be exercised when digging the potatoes to see that the roots of the cabbages are not interfered with. Before setting out the plants, the largest leaves may be cut in half and the remainder of the green part of the plant dipped in a mixture made as follows: — 1 oz. of arsenate of lead (powder form). 2 oz. of hydrated lime. 1| gal. of water. In addition to keeping plants well watered, a fortnightly application of nitrate of soda in solution at the rate of 1 tablespoonful to 4 gallons of water may be made. This treatment, combined with adequate protection against insect attacks, will assist the plants towards development until the advent of cooler weather. The use of fertiliser before planting is assumed, and blood and bone applied at the rate of 2 lb. to 26 ft. of row will supply the necessary quantity.

; ‘ VEGETABLE SECTION. SUCCESSIONAL SOWINGS UNTIL MID-FEBRUARY. Peas (dwarf variety); lettuce. Unless plenty of water is available, sow lettuce where the crop will grow to maturity. Spring onions (White Lisbon) turnips (Milan, Snowball). OTHER SOWINGS. For winter use: Endive, lettuce, spinach. For spring use; Carrots (Earlykrop, ■Early Short Horn); spring cabbage (Sutton’s Flower of Spring); cauliflower (Ali-the-Year-Round). SPECIAL NOTES FOR WARM DISTRICTS. Sow dwarf beans till middle of February, also beetroot. CROPS IN SEASON. (The month in brackets represents the month in which the seed may be sown.) J Lettuce (June); radish (spring and summer); sweet or sugar corn (early Spring, after frost-danger) tomatoes (outside-grown, late August); cucumbers (September); spring onions (almost any season).

What To Do In The Garden Next Month

Summary of Operations During February

Greens.—Beans, marrows, pumpkins (November; frostfree areas October). Peas (June, July, succession of main crop November); New Zealand spinach (October). Roots.—Beetroot (September; in warm districts almost any season); carrots (November main crop); parsnips (early spring to early autumn); potatoes (after frost danger); onions (late March, early April) parsley spring or autumn); salsify (early spring); turnips (except winter). “ GENERAL WORK. Regular shallow hoeing will destroy weeds and) conserve soil moisture. Liquid manure is a stimulant, and should be applied weekly to quick-growing plants. / Do not permit seedlings to become overcrowded; thin out and transplant, if necessary. Spraying is not a remedy for disease; it is a preventive. Neglect means disaster. If the seed is worth sowing the plants should be protected.

Liquid Manure Liquid manure for application to vegetable crops may be made by using the voidings of cows, poultry, pigeons, or rabbits. The manure, 2 lb. per gallon of water, should be tied in a piece of sacking and suspended in the water. A half cask or a thoroughly cleaned oil drum will hold a reasonable quantity. In order to hasten the solution of the. plant food which the manure contains, the bag may be deposited in the container and pressed with a piece of wood. Soot (1 lb. per gallon of water) may also be used as' a liquid fertiliser if treated in the manner just described. Liquid manure should never be applied to a dry soil—always after a thorough watering has been given. Green Manuring Immediately a part of the garden becomes vacant, and is to remain in this condition for any considerable time, it should be dug and sown with seed to produce a green crop which will later be turned in. Legumes, such as peas, beans, or lupins, are generally favoured, but unless there will be sufficient time to allow for full growth, mustard or oats ' will produce a heavy crop of green manure, to dig in which will assist in the retention of residue nitrogen that may be left over from the previous crop. If the humus-content of the soil is to be maintained, there is, in the absence of stable manure, no better method of achieving this result. Hygiene in ' The Garden • It is important that no diseased refuse or crop residues should be allowed

to be about the garden. Healthy foliage and this includes lawn clippings and d hedge clippingsmav be utilmnaer neage cuppings may De uni ised in a compost heap, but remains of diseased crops should be destroyed by burning. This refers particularly to diseased potato haulm and pea or

bean foliage which may be affected with virus and other diseases. plan the home garden for crop rotadanger of vegetable dise^ses will be substantially min* m i se d. - ' o. K. PRITCHARD, Instructor in Vegetable Culture, Wellington.

Fumigation of the Glasshouse

LATE January should see the tomato season in glasshouses (unheated) almost finished. As soon as picking and marketing are completed, the vines should be dug out (not pulled out) and left hanging until properly dry, after which they may be removed outside and burned. It is generally considered necessary in glasshouse hygiene to carry out fumigation as soon as possible after cleaning up has been completed. Fumigation is the most convenient and effective means of destroying insects which cause injury to glasshouse tomato crops. Broken glass must be replaced and all openings closed. An even or slightly rising temperature of between 60 degrees and 70 degrees F. is recommended during operation, and, to avoid wastage, a calm night should be chosen. For effective results, refined sulphur at the rate of 1 lb. to 2,000 cubic feet of space is generally used, and the house is locked up for 24 hours. Great-

er quantities of sulphur are unnecessary because of the effect on paint, pipes, and wires. Empty glasshouses are sometimes fumigated for 24 hours with 1| ib. of calcium cyanide to 1,000 cubic feet to destroy pests that may be present. A temperature of 70 degrees F. is recommended. Nicotine is also used to some extent, but, although safe and effective, it is invariably more expensive than other fumigants. Hydrocyanic acid gas is such a deadly poison that its use as a glasshouse fumigant cannot be recommended. After fumigation is completed and the house is thoroughly cleaned, the soil should be turned over and sown to a cover crop, which will later be dug in. The kind of crop which may be grown will depend largely on the condition of the soil. Repairs and renovations can be attended to before further planting, is undertaken.

—D. K. PRITCHARD,

, Instructor in

Vegetable Culture, Wellington.