The Home Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 63, Issue 1, 15 July 1941, Page 62

The Home Garden

Small Fruits and Flowers

Arbor Day

We owe a debt of gratitude to those who planted the trees which beautify our towns and countryside. We should set aside Arbor Day—the first Wednesday in August-for some practical demonstration of our appreciation. Many of those trees already planted require some attention to improve their appearance and to lengthen their life, and there is also room for many more to be planted. But before any more planting is done think what the small tree could be in 10 or 20 years’ time, and with that thought, in mind select the position where it will have plenty of room to develop.

Asparagus in the Home Garden

ASPARAGUS, which is comparatively easily grown, should be more extensively cultivated in the home garden, and August is the best month for planting. It is highly productive, and once a bed is properly established, cutting may be continued for two consecutive months each season, extending over a period of 15 to 20 years. To ensure best results, however, the greatest possible care should be exercised in (1) the preparation of the bed, and (2) the kind and quantity of manures and fertilisers used. Soil and Manures The ideal soil is a deep, well-drained, rich, moist, sandy loamnot too light —which contains an abundant supply of humus. The home gardener, however, will have to make the best use of the soil available. The location of the bed should be deeply trenched and all traces of perennial weeds removed, the soil worked to a fine tilth, and, if available, plenty of stable manure incorporated with the bottom spit. Wellweathered straw, lawn, and tender green hedge clippings can be utilised as a substitute. It would be an advantage to mix with the soil two handfuls of blood and bone, a handful of superphosphate, and one of potash for each crown to be planted. This will ensure a good start, , and, being a combination of water-soluble and insoluble plant nutrients, will be available for some considerable-time. Planting One-year-old crowns are best for planting. A trench should be opened in which to plant the crowns, which are better not set flat on the bottom., They should be placed on a very slight mound, with the roots spread out evenly and not covered in a tangled mass. The correct depth is about 8 inches below the soil level of the garden, but less in heavy soil, and the soil should be made firm on top of the

roots. It is inadvisable to cover the crowns to a greater depth than 2 inches. Trenches should not exceed the depth of the top soil, and the young crowns, must never be planted in hard subsoil through which the soft fleshy roots cannot penetrate in their search for plant food. The crowns should be spaced 18 inches apart. 1 If a double row is planted, an equal distance each way between the crowns will be sufficient. In view of the length of time the plants may remain in the same place

in the garden and the, tall and abundant growth which will be produced each season, a planting site , should be chosen where no other products will be overshadowed. If the soil is of insufficient depth to permit trenching, raised beds : may be made by building up the soil. With the crowns spaced 18 inches apart, the bed intended for a double row should not be less than 42 inches wide; 48 inches would be better. i In view of the subsequent development of the plants this width must be maintained. Cultivation Cultivation should never be neglected, but care must be taken to see that

the young shoots are not covered. As the plants grow, the trenches will gradually fill through cultural operations. During early spring and summer cultivation should be regular, but not. deeper than is necessary to destroy weeds and assist in conserving soil moisture. Weeds, if allowed to grow, rob the soil of plant nutrients and moisture, which are necessary for the growth and future productivity of the crowns. After-treatment Provided the suggested manurial recommendations have been adopted, no further applications will be -necessary until the top growth has been cut and destroyed at the end of the growing season. Except on light soils, the whole of the fertiliser considered essential for the following season’s development may be applied in one dressing and worked into the soil. Of necessity, New Zealand-produced organic fertilisers will need to be used. As soon as practicable after the top growth has been cleared, a good ( handful of blood and bone should be spread round each crown, combined with as much soot and wood ashes as possible. Soot contains from 1 per cent, to 6 per cent, of nitrogen in the form of sulphate of ammonia, and also a little potash and phosphoric acid. It is a protection against slugs and snails, and improves the physical property of the soil. Wood-ashes are rich in potash, and in addition contain lime and phosphoric acid. (At the time of writing potash is exceedingly scarce, and obtainable only at high prices. It is advisable, therefore, to conserve all wood-ashes for the garden.) As soon as growth begins in spring nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia should be applied at the rate of | oz. of the former and l/soz. of the latter to each crown. If preferred, this may be done in solution with a watering can. . Watering this crop must on no account be neglected, and occasional soakings should be given. Harvesting No spears should be taken from the first year’s growth, and light cuttings for two weeks during the second sea-

What to Do in the Garden Next Month

Summary of Operations During August

VEGETABLE SECTION. SOWINGS UNDER GLASS. Celery, celeriac, capsicums, cucumbers, egg plant, melons, tomatoes (for outdoor crop). Set kumara roots for shoot production. SUCCESSIONAL SOWINGS. Turnips, lettuce, spring onions, radish, spinach (round seeded). OTHER SOWINGS. Peas: A sowing of the four varieties W. F. Massey, Greenfeast, Onward, and Aiderman (tall) will mature in the order given, and should provide peas to the end of Dec. ~ Broad beans, globe beetroot, summer cabbage, carrots (shorthorn varieties), cauliflower, onions (to develop without transplanting), pickling onions (Early Barletta and Silver Skin; sow thickly in wide drills at about 50 seeds per foot), parsnip (Oxheart should provide roots in Dec.). The main crop sowing of parsnips should be delayed until Oct. SEEDLINGS TO TRANSPLANT AND PLANTS TO SET. Summer cabbage, lettuce, onion, early potatoes (Arran Banner), shallots (complete planting this month). PERENNIAL CROPS. Asparagus transplant seedlings (1-yr. plants are the most suitable). Rhubarb, set crowns. CROPS IN SEASON. The month in brackets represents the month of sowing the seed. Salads. Endive (Mar.), celery (Sept.). Greens.—Brussels sprouts (Sept.), borecole, broccoli, cauliflower, early savoy cabbage, silver beet (all in Oct.), spring cabbage (Feb.), spinach (Mar;). Roots in the Ground.—Artichokes (Oct. tubers), beet.root (Mar. in warm districts), celeriac (Sept.), carrots (Feb.-Mar. shorthorns), leeks (Oct.), parsnips (Oct. and Dec.), salsify (Oct.), swedes (Mar.).

CROPS IN STORE. Beetroot, carrots, kumaras, onions, potatoes, pumpkin and shallots. GENERAL WORK. Lift the balance of roots as they show signs of regrowth and store them in a cool situation. Cultivate land to destroy weeds and to produce seed bed conditions. If the ground was well prepared in the autumn a shallow cultivation only is necessary. Dig under any cover crop three to four weeks before sowing further crops. SMALL FRUITS SECTION. Strawberries.— ln cold district, such as Otago, plant during the last week of August. Raspberries, Loganberries, etc. —At bud movement apply Bordeaux mixture 5-4-50 for control of cane wilt and leaf spot. Cape Gooseberries. seed under glass if not sown in July. FLOWER SECTION. Plant tender shrubs and those that do not transplant readily. z Break up and replant herbaceous perennials if this was not done in the autumn. Gerber as, however, should not be taken up until October. ' Make early planting of gladioli bulbs, but save some for October to January planting to produce a succession of bloom. Continue the sowing of seeds of■: annuals to produce plants for planting out later in the spring. Prick the plants out into boxes as they become large enough to handle. Set dahlia tubers for shoot production prior to taking cuttings. Take cuttings of chrysanthemums. GLASSHOUSE SECTION. Plant tomato seedlings in the unheated house. If the ground was thoroughly flooded several weeks before planting, additional water should not be required for about two months.

son and a week longer in the third year will be sufficient. . During the remainder of the life of the crowns cutting may extend from seven to eight weeks . each season. Whatever length the spears are allowed to grow above the soil before cutting it may be 2

Raising Tomato Plants

inches or 6 inchesit is important that they should be cut before. the bud begins to open. The cut should be made from 2 to 3 inches below the surface. When cutting, great care must be taken not to injure the young shoots which remain covered with the soil.

Preparations for growing tomato plants for outside production should start in August, but the best time for setting the plants in their permanent location is important. To produce the best fruit and to bring the full crop to maturity, in outside tomato production, a frost-free period

of six months is essential. Home gardeners who intend growing tomatoes in the open should therefore proceed with caution through the various stages involved in propagating their own plants. Throughout the recognised tomatogrowing areas in the Dominion there

does not appear to be any considerable difference in the “safe” time for outside planting, but this reference does not apply ■ to a few particularly favoured localities. Except where the plants will obtain the maximum sunshine and full protection from cold winds and rain, near the end of October will be early enough; Labour Day is a good guide for outside planting. Even then, a sharp lookout should be kept until the end of the month for a late frost, two or three degrees of which will destroy the 'plants. '■ If it is intended to grow plants instead of buying them, sterilised soil is specially recommended. Sterilisation may be done by steam, but should this not be convenient, the best chemical substitute is formalin, which contains 40 per cent, formaldehyde. This

RAISING TOMATO PLANTS.-

may. be purchased in small quantities from most of the leading seedsmen. Sterilised Soil If the soil to be sterilised is dry, it should be thoroughly drenched with a dilution of 1 part formalin to 99 parts water. With moist soil, however, the dilution is preferably 1 in 49. In the event of the dry soil not absorbing the liquid quickly, give half at the first application and the. remainder after half an hour. Immediately the soil has been treated, cover it with bags moistened with the mixture, and leave for 48 hours. After removing the covering, the soil should be stirred daily until all the fumes of the formalin have disappeared. Fourteen days after treatment, the seed may be sown. In: warm localities the seed, particularly for a main crop, may be sown

in prepared beds under a glass > frame. Generally, a seedling box 3 inches deep, which may be made from an apple case, will be found more convenient. A glasshouse, however small, is an acquisition to any garden, and is invaluable for growing early plants. The seedling : box should be filled with a good friable soil which has been put through a sieve, the meshes of which do not exceed J- inch, or crushed fine between the hands. The soil, should be pressed well down along the sides, and particularly at the corners, not omitting, the centre. When the soil has been levelled off on top of the box, the seed may be broadcast thinly and lightly covered with soil which has been passed through a very fine sieve and to which has been added about one-third coarse sand. To assist germination, press the contents

of the box down firmly with a piece of dressed timber. If the box is situated in a sunny position, cover it with a piece of light-coloured paper and a sheet of glass, which must be removed as soon as germination begins. The box should be placed in the warmest position possible, and if neither a glasshouse, a hotbed, nor a coldframe is available, a glassed-in porch or verandah will be the most suitable. From this early sowing, but depending on the method of growing, the seedlings should be ready for “pricking out” or transplanting to other boxes in about 21 to 25 days. T ransplanting The main, object of transplanting is to assist the plants to proper development and to encourage greater root production, and it is therefore necessary to space the seedlings 3 inches apart each way. When transplanting, hold the young plants by the leaves. The seedlings must never be removed by pulling, but should be eased from the bottom of the box with the small dibber which is being used for transplanting. '

—D. K. PRITCHARD,

Instructor in

Vegetable Culture, Wellington.