Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image
Article image

The Orchard and Vineyard

Contributed by the Horticulture Division

Orchard Notes

Preparations for Next Season

BY the time these notes appear, the harvesting of the. 1941 fruit crop will almost have been completed.- The gathering of the late varieties is often' more difficult and tedious because of unfavourable .weather conditions . and shorter days. As some of these late varieties are usually, expected to ' provide the fruit for consumption late in the year, every care should be exercised in picking, handling, and packing, for damaged fruit is not suitable for long storage either in cool store or under ordinary storage conditions. In order to provide a reasonable quantity of suitable fruit later in the season, certain' preferred sizes should be selected and packed carefully for the purpose. The most suitable sizes are counts of 138 to 198; the larger and smaller sizes are not so acceptable. After the Harvesting After the harvesting period the attention of growers is usually focused on arranging and preparing for the following season and the order in which the work should be undertaken. Now is the time to review the past and decide whether any radical improvements can be made in the . following directions: — . ■ 1. Whether ploughing is necessary or whether the method followed in the past has been satisfactory. ' 2. In arranging for replacements or new plantings (have the trees been satisfactory?) . . . 3. Has the pruning of the orchard been satisfactory both in regard to method and time? Ploughing, which has been mentioned in previous notes, is not considered necessary in some quarters with the advent of the rotary hoe, but there is always a danger of an accumulation of water where only the rotary hoe is used; therefore, consider this matter very carefully and act accordingly.

Sufficient consideration has not always been given to replacements and new plantings, and the following statement summarises. briefly the reason for so . many unsatisfactory trees in some orchards:— “Many a person intensely practical in his own business will give his order to the lowest bidder among competing nurserymen and waste years looking at sickly, struggling trees in his orchard rather than invest a little more money and get satisfaction and joy from the start. Poor nursery stock is dear at any price.” One of the principal factors in raising strong, healthy fruit trees is the stock. > What is a stock? A stock is an easily-grown form of fruit tree on which improved varieties are grafted

or budded. Thus, in every fruit tree you have the trunk and branches of the variety you want growing on a root (or stock) of another variety. Reasons for Using Stocks New stocks are used because it is the easiest way of raising a quantity of any one variety. If you have a bunch of stocks, they can be budded or grafted with any variety desired. If you are a keen horticulturist and desire to become a successful fruitgrower, take, an interest in the work of a reliable nurseryman and take note of the following points:— 1. The class and quality of stocks upon which he is working his trees. 2. The class and type of tree from which he obtains his wood for grafting and budding. .. 3. The general manner in which he attends to all matters relative to the . nursery. Remember, also, that successful fruitgrowing is so closely linked up and associated with the nursery that it is impossible to separate the two. If the nursery is poor, the orchard is also likely to be poor, and if the ■foundation is weak it is not reasonable to expect the structure to be sound. Fruitgrowing is becoming more highly scientific each year; therefore try and keep abreast of the times and investigate every avenue that will' enable you to become more efficient. Only an outline can be given of what will lead to success; the remainder can be obtained free from reliable Departmental officers. , ’ Planting New Orchards Give mature consideration to the planting of new orchards, and proceed along the following lines:•

ial Provide adequate shelter to protect the young trees. (b) Prepare the soil thoroughly. (c) Select those varieties most suitable for the locality, soil conditions, market requirements, and length of the harvesting period. (d) Last, but not least, do not crowd trees when planting. The following table shows the number of trees per acre from 10 feet up to 30 feet when planted on the square system:— ' No. of Ft. ; No. of ' No. of Ft. No. of Between Trees. Trees. Between Trees. Trees.

The minimum standard distance for planting apples and pears should not be less than 18 feet, with 134 per acre; in some soils it would be preferable to plant 20 feet, with 109 per acre. Stone fruits should be planted 20 feet or even more, depending largely upon the class of soil. The distances men-

tioned may at first appear unreasonable, but as the trees begin to develop the room is needed for successfully carrying out all cultural, spraying, and harvesting operations. Moreover, a reasonably free circulation of air is needed at all times, and if the- trees are crowded this is scarcely possible. Pruning Pruning should be started in June and pushed forward reasonably early. In some quarters it has been the practice to delay the work. This is not advisable, as broken weather will ’ always further delay the work, and it is often not completed until September. Pruning can be carried out on apples until very late, but it is not good orchard practice, as other work is then in season. Therefore, begin early and plod along , until completed. A few points worthy of note are: — 1. Have a good pair of secateurs and one of the up-to-date pruning saws. 2. Have a light ladder for reaching the higher portion of the larger trees.

3. Do not shorten the young growth of peaches and nectarines more than is necessary; rather, pay attention to adequate thinning and spacing both leaders and laterals. 4. Remove all dead wood and any wood of a weakly nature and immature and also strong water shoots if there are any. 5. Make all cuts clean, and pare neatly with a sharp knife any large wounds made with the saw and cover with a bitumastic paint. 6. Gather up and burn all prunings, as this is a part of good orchard practice. ■ ' . Orchard Hygiene Orchard hygiene plays an important part in good orchard practice, and attention should be given to this work. Burn up all orchard prunings, and destroy any r decaying and diseased fruit. . An accumulation of either is not only unsightly, but is likely to be a source of further contamination the following season. —L. PAYNTER, District Supervisor, Auckland.

( Citrus Notes

Citrus Bud Selection

REFERENCE was made in last month’s notes in the “Journal” to the necessity when planting citrus trees to plant only the best. The choice of such trees depends upon the varietyand the root-stock, but these two factors are themselves greatly influenced by, the care with which the propagating budwood has been selected and the relative vigour of the rootstock at time of budding. In order to co-ordi-nate previous efforts and to improve the existing position in New Zealand/ the co-operation of every grower and nurseryman is desired in the efforts being made by the Citus Bud Selection Committee to locate trees of outstanding quality from which .budwood can later be cut for propagating purposes. . In the past the reproduction of citrus trees has been done by seed, cuttings, layering, budding, and grafting. Today, the standard method is by budding, a system of vegetative reproduction by which the young citrus tree; retains the characteristics of the tree from which the original bud was taken. This bud is inserted into one of the standard' root-stocks for citrus trees, namely the sweet orange (Citrus sinensis), the rough lemon or Citronelle (Citrus limonia), the trifoliate orange (Poncirus triifoliata), etc. Although

root-stock and general environmental factors have a considerable influence on the development of . the young citrus tree, trees planted out on the same root-stock and within , the same environment differ widely. In every

commercial citrus orchard today there are all qualities of trees both in vigour of growth and in the quality and quantity of fruit produced per tree. This difference is largely due to the original buds from which trees were propagated. , No farmer would endeavour to build a pedigree herd by' the purchase of stock at random in a saleyard. He would look for the characteristics he desired in his herd and choose his stock accordingly. If he were in error in his judgment, by breeding from superior sires he is able to make vast improvements in a comparatively short time. The citrus grower has, in the past, paid too little attention to his original trees, and when, by experience, he learns his mistakes he may have spent many years of hard, conscientious work on inferior trees. Not only should root-stock seedlings be severely culled, retaining only the strongest, but also the best available citrus buds should be budded on to those root-stocks. ’ . The 1 work of finding the best buds available is known as citrus bud selection. Generally, citrus trees have been propagated from the best available material, but the individual person who was propagating . the trees

has been limited in his choice by limited knowledge of trees available. Formerly buds were selected from one variety, and later concentration moved, to the strain within the variety, whereas today buds should be selected from the best trees or best portions of trees of a superior strain of a variety. Citrus bud selection work has been carried out in other parts of the world, and the work of A. D. Shamel and his co-workers in the United States is well known. Similar work has been going on in New South Wales, and the necessity for such bud selection has been recognised in New Zealand for some years. In order to put citrus bud selection on a sound basis and to co-ordinate past work, it is suggested that each individual grower become an observer and report to the - local Orchard Instructor and Citrus Growers’ Committee for the locality trees

of outstanding merit for quality and quantity in the orchard. : , Having selected the outstanding trees, it is proposed that fruits be assembled and exhibited locally from these trees and then forwarded to the Central Bud Selection Committee for its selection and comments. All selected trees would be marked and a cropping record for the next three years obtained. At the end of this period there will be some reliable data in each district. No buds are to, be cut before the . end of the three-year trial period. i When definite proved trees have been secured after the trial period, it is proposed to arrange for securing buds and supply nurserymen with them on conditions to be agreed upon, and also to plant out bud-selected trees and encourage intending planters to

inquire for trees, using such tested and selected buds. Do you know that New Zealand still imports more than 500.000 cases of citrus fruits annually? Is this necessary? We have good quality local grapefruit and lemons, and are searching for a suitable variety of local sweet orange and mandarin. Do you realise that every sweet orange growing country had to evolve its own particular varieties suitable for local conditions, and that the industry became established only when such variety was discovered? What is that variety going to be in New Zealand? Are you going to assist this work of finding the most suitable • variety and improving our lemons and New Zealand grapefruit by careful bud selection? —A. M. W. GREIG, Citriculturist, Auckland.

Viticulture

Special Ciders and Their Making. Dry Cider npHE simplest cider to make is that I known dry cider. This is allowed known as dry cider. This is allowed to continue fermenting until the fermentation ceases naturally. The dry or hard ciders are, as a rule, not appreciated by the general public, although preferred in cider-making districts. A little sugar added before drinking it makes the cider more agreeable to those consumers who do not care for it dry.. It is preferable to bottle the cider before it becomes absolutely dry. It is not possible to give a fixed degree at which to bottle' as the degree will vary according to the original sugar-content and consequent alcohol produced. As alcohol is lighter than water, more or less of it in proportion to the water content of the cider will affect the hydrometer accordingly. Sparkling Cider Sparkling cider requires either from six weeks at a temperature of 55 degrees Fahrenheit or two months or more maturing in the bottle at a temperature of 40 degrees Fahrenheit to develop the effervescence, and it is advisable to leave it at least another month in the cellar to mature. No exact period can be given for the maturing of cider; this varies with its composition and the conditions under which it is fermented and matured.

Points in Making Cider

Generally speaking, cider is sufficiently matured for consumption in about 12 months from the ' time of extracting the juice, although it will improve considerably if kept for a longer period under suitable conditions.

When thoroughly matured, the cider should be clear and bright, sparkling in the glass, should have a pleasant flavour and bouquet, should be invigorating but not intoxicating in

1. High speed, steel-knived grater. , 2. Heavy balance wheel on grater shaft. 3. Cast-steel press cylinder with downward moving ram. 4. Enclosed springs for returning ram and platen. 5. Valve to control press ram movements. 6. Built up “cheese” of pomace in cloth-wrapped layers between wood / racks insures free drainage under hydraulic pressure. 7. Second “cheese” being built up as apples are ground. 8. Rigid all-steel press frame. 9. Weighted pressure control valve. 10. Hydraulic pump which develops the operating pressure. 11. Reservoir for the entire supply of operating fluidabout two gallons of water or oil. 12. Any 11 horse-power engine or v motor operates this press through

AN ORCHARD TYPE COMBINED MILL AND PRESS.

a single drive belt; these items not included with the outfit. 13. Idler pulley for adjusting tension of pump drive belt, which is inluded with the press. 14. Pulley for driving both grater and pump.

effect, and should leave an agreeable after-taste on the palate. The effervescence produced by secondary fermentation in the bottle will continue for a long time in the glass after the cider is poured out. This, added to its superior flavour and bouquet, distinguishes it from the sparkling cider . produced by pasteurisation and . artificial carbonisation. Large quantities of artificially carbonated cider are produced in England and Germany, and the best of it makes an excellent beverage. When made on a /large scale, it can be produced quicker and at less cost than the sparking cider, in which the effervescence is produced by . secondary fermentation. Champagne Cider The production of champagne cider which, when well made, is very similar to real champagne, is rather costly, as it necessitates more handling and considerable material. It can be made by exactly the same process as for champagne wine, utilising matured cider from the previous year and adding a sugared liqueur, clarifyingmedium, and wine-yeast. A simpler method is to bottle the cider in the same year that it is made (as in the making of sparkling cider) at 2.5 degrees Baume, using cider which registered at least 8 degrees Baume when in the state of unfermented juice, and containing about 0.3 per cent, of malic acid at the time of bottling. Temporary corks are placed in bottles and held in place with special clamps. The bottles are then laid on their side in the cellar to develop the necessary gas by secondary fermentation, which usually requires from six weeks to two months. The bottles are then shaken and placed neck downwards in special stands, where they are given a sharp turn every day until all the sediment falls on the cork. The exact moment for placing the bottles on the stand can be judged by an experienced maker from the state of the line of deposit on, the bottom side of the bottle. s

When the sediment is well settled on the cork the bottles are taken from the stand, holding the neck down, the cork is smartly withdrawn, and the neck is brought quickly into an upright position. The sediment is then thrown out by the escaping gas into a barrel prepared for the purpose, or the sediment is frozen on to the corks by placing the necks of the bottles in a freezing liquid, and withdrawing the frozen sediment with the cork. In both these operations there is a slight loss of cider, which is replaced by a liqueur prepared by mixing some cider with certain proportions of sugar, alcohol, and citric acid. The bottles are then permanently corked and wired.

Light Ciders A sweet, light, effervescent or still ciders of low alcoholic content can be prepared from partly fermented cider by passing it through a germproof filter or through a centrifugal separator with the object of stopping fermentation by extracting the ferments. The cider is then bottled as a still cider, or rendered effervescent by carbonating. Light ciders for home use can be made from the apple pomace which has been already pressed once by breaking up the pomace and repressing and fermenting alone, or it may be reinforced by fresh juice from the first pressing. The pomace is placed in a barrel with one end taken out, and the top covered with calico to exclude dust, etc. The pomace is left to soak for about 12 hours, then repressed, and the juice fermented alone or added to the pure juice of the first pressing. The saccharine contents of the second juice will naturally vary with the greater or lesser pressure to

which the pomace was subjected in the first place. To facilitate the rapid fermentation of light' ciders for home consumption the fermentation vessel can be placed in a warm' shed, and ljoz. of ammonium phosphate added to each barrel of 42 gallons. The phosphate supplies , extra food for the ferments, invigorates them, and assists in their rapid propagation. It is consumed in the process, and leaves no disagreeable after-effect. In a couple of months’ time, and after racking once .or twice, the cider will be ready for consumption. Either pure or diluted juice can be treated in this manner. In several of the cider-producing countries large quantities of cider are consumed as soon as 1 the first or tumultuous period of the fermentation is over. It has a pleasant, sharp, fruity flavour in this state, contains 1J to 2 per cent, of alcohol, and makes an excellent beverage in hot weather. W. LINDEMAN, Vine and Wine Instructor, Auckland. (To be continued.)

Cool Storage Notes

A STOCK-TAKING of all lines of A STOCK-TAKING of all lines of Zk mid-season varieties of pears and apples held in cool storage will now be essential in order that these varieties may be released in time to refill the space with varieties which can be held in storage for a longer period. Pears, in particular, will require a careful inspection from now on until their. release from storage. Pears received for cool storage immediately after harvesting in a green, firm condition can be safely held for the full length of their cool storage life. By special attention to temperature and humidity treatment, as shown on the pear temperature chart, firm green fruit can be removed from cool storage when required and brought to a state of maturity that will be beneficial for marketing and distribution' Handling the pear crop in this way will help to prevent losses from deterioration during cool storage and immediately after removal. Some lines of Winter Cole pears may contain a percentage of fruits which, because of an advanced state of maturity, cannot be held for any longer. The immediate removal of faulty lines will make space available for the storage of some of the later varieties of apples which have a low temperature tolerance. This procedure should also be adopted with the later picking of Winter Nelis and other varieties of pears.

Stock-taking of Lines in Storage

The above recommendations, if carried out, will assist' in avoiding repacking charges and losses from deterioration. Jonathan apples held in cool storage are subject to the development of flesh collapse and soft scald during the next five or six weeks. ' A regular inspection of all lines of Jonathans will be necessary in order that this variety may be released in time to avoid repacking and loss. A regular inspection of all stocks now being held will also reveal the early tendencies of the fruit to develop bitter pit or internal browning. This knowledge will materially assist the officers who are responsible for the distribution and sale of fruit. The blowing out or ventilating of fruit cool storage chambers at regular intervals twice weekly should be carried out during the remainder of the year This is very necessary when the store has been filled with fruit, as accidental ventilation which occurs when the cool chamber doors are frequently being opened for receiving and delivering fruit is no longer taking place. The. best time .to ventilate is early in the morning before starting the refrigerating plant.

—A. POWELL,

Cool Storage

Officer, Wellington.

J Oft. 435 22ft.; ' . 90 12ft. 302 24ft. 75 14ft. 222 26ft, ■ 64 16ft. 170 28ft. 59 18ft. ' 134 ' 30ft. 48 20ft. 109..

This article text was automatically generated and may include errors. View the full page to see article in its original form.
Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/periodicals/NZJAG19410515.2.63

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 62, Issue 5, 15 May 1941, Page 357

Word Count
3,597

The Orchard and Vineyard New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 62, Issue 5, 15 May 1941, Page 357

The Orchard and Vineyard New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 62, Issue 5, 15 May 1941, Page 357

Log in or create a Papers Past website account

Use your Papers Past website account to correct newspaper text.

By creating and using this account you agree to our terms of use.

Log in with RealMe®

If you’ve used a RealMe login somewhere else, you can use it here too. If you don’t already have a username and password, just click Log in and you can choose to create one.


Log in again to continue your work

Your session has expired.

Log in again with RealMe®


Alert