The Cultivation of Vegetables

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 59, Issue 5, 15 November 1939, Page 442

The Cultivation of Vegetables

Contributed by the "Horticulture Division

Sowing the Seeds

E SYDENHAM.

Assistant Horticulturist, Wellington.

MAKE sowings of seeds as recommended in the summary in ground that has been prepared for the purpose by digging or forking. If the soil is sandy consolidation is necessary, and this can take place if the soil is left for a few weeks to settle. ■ It may be hastened by rolling or treading the ground before producing the final tilth and marking the furrows for the seed. This treading must not be too severe, and the ground must not be made to resemble a path. Treading need only be done in strips the width of two boots where the rows are to be. The furrow for small seeds is best made by using the back of the rake with the garden line in front of the teeth of the rake. Seed is then sown thinly, and is- sufficiently covered by holding the rake vertically and, with brisk movements, lifting and lowering the rake so that the head displaces soil from the sides of the furrow and covers the seed. At the same time the ground is firmed so that moisture can rise to the surface. Larger seeds, such as peas and beans, which are planted two to three inches deep, are planted in a * furrow made with a draw hoe. The seeds are plant-, ed and the soil raked level over them. The seeds of these two crops are planted singly three to four inches apart. Rather than plant peas in one straight row, place them in a double row 4 ins. wide, and space the seeds over this area three to four inches apart.

Planting Seedlings

TF possible, plant out seedlings after IF possible, plant out seedlings after £ a shower of rain. On light soils which do not pug they may actually

be planted in the rain. All that is necessary for each seedling is to make a small hole with the trowel. Place the roots, carrying as much soil as possible, in the hole, replace the soil, and press it firmly round the roots. .

As a general rule, plant all seedlings at ■ approximately the same depth as that at which they grew previously. Leeks and celery, however, are exceptions, and are usually planted in trenches about 6 in. deep so that they can be well earthed up later. , Leeks may be dropped into holes made by pushing a sharpened piece of timber, such as a broken spade handle, into the ground. The hole is made of such

What To Do in the Vegetable Garden This Month

Summary of operations for the month (until the middle of December). SEEDS TO SOW. Continue fortnightly sowings of lettuce, radish, peas and dwarf beans. Make sowings of short-horn carrots, globe beet and swedes for winter use. SEEDLINGS TO TRANSPLANT. Plant out seedlings of the September-October sowing of leeks, savoy cabbage, cauliflower, Brussel sprouts, celery and celeriac. Plant late crops of tomatoes about the middle of December. PERENNIAL CROPS. Discontinue cutting asparagus about the end of November, and manure the beds. Manure rhubarb beds, and cut out seed stems as they appear. GENERAL WORK. Tie up and remove side shoots from early-planted tomatoes. Keep the ground hoed to destroy weeds and to conserve moisture. Especially should this be done after a shower of rain. Apply liquid manure to salad crops. Thin out all seedling crops. In. dry weather, water as required. SPECIAL NOTES FOR WARMER DISTRICTS. Transplanting of melons and cucumbers should be completed by the end of November. Make successional sowings of sweet corn. In most localities this period offers the last opportunity, until the autumn rains come, of planting vegetables. From Christmas onwards dry conditions are expected, and by then the roots of plants must be well established in the ground so that they can obtain moisture from the lower levels.

depth that when the roots of the plant are at the bottom of it the leaves are showing above the surface. A little

soil pushed into the hole or a little water poured into it after the plant is dropped in is all that is required to bring about establishment. Celeriac, or turnip-rooted celery, is not planted in trenches, but on the flat. Both these forms of celery require moist conditions.

Perennial Crops

Asparagus should not be cut later than the end of November, and cut until then only if the plants continue to send up strong, plump shoots. When cutting ceases, give a dressing of bonedust, basic slag, or superphosphate and potash (muriate, sulphate or salts) in equal proportions at the rate of 2 oz. of the mixture per square yard of the bed. Also, mulch the beds with partially-decayed farm manure or compost. This might appear to be an excessive amount of manuring, but when it is remembered that the crop produces only from the reserves it stores up during the summer (for it has no green leaves when the shoots are being cut) the wisdom of renewing those resources is apparent.

Similar remarks apply to the rhubarb. The leaves which are produced in the spring to nourish the plant are pulled with the stalks, and the plant must build up a reserve so that it can produce heavily the following winter and spring. Still, little harm comes from removing a few stems from the plants during the summer and autumn.

Seasonal Don'ts

Don’t ■ let weeds grow large. While growing they are competing with the plants for nutrients, moisture, and space. Water at this time of the year and later is usually in short supply, and the plants require all they can get. Nutrients are seldom over-plentiful and should not be wasted in producing unnecessary growth. Light and air are, essential in producing vigorous, healthy plants, and if weeds overcrowd plants the latter will never make maximum growth. It is easy to get rid of weeds before , they have passed the seedling stage, when they have only very small and undeveloped rooting system. . Don’t water the ground every time the surface is dry. The surface of the soil should be constantly worked and always dry. When dry, weed seeds will not germinate readily, and the surface acts as a layer between the drying elements, the sun and' wind, and the moisture that is held in the lower layers of the soil, preventing undue evaporation of the water. If the soil has been well prepared before sowing or planting heavy soil loosened up, and a light soil loosened and allowed to consolidate

before being usedthis moisture should have no difficulty in moving from the moister parts (usually, the lower layers) to the surface. It cannot, travel through the loosened surface, and hence remains about the plant roots, where it is required. After each shower of rain the surface layer should be loosened to produce this mulch. If the ground is dry, water it thoroughly and next _ day loosen the surface. In this way watering, even in very hot, dry weather, need be done only once a week, except in the case of very small seedings, the roots of which are very near the surface and in soils that are very open and over-drained. A surface mulch of decayed farm manure, compost, or even fresh lawn clippings will assist considerably in keeping the surface of the soil cool and moist, at the same time providing valuable humus. When watering, do it thoroughly. Small amounts moisten only the surface layers and stimulate shallow root activity, with disastrous results in very dry weather. Once the leaves of the plant have grown and cover the spaces between the rows they themselves act as a protection against excessive evaporation of moisture from the soil, and the maintaining of a surface mulch is not so necessary, nor is it so easily done.

Control of White Butterfly

The white butterfly at . this season will be starting its attacks on cabbage and cauliflower crops. The caterpillars are effectively kept in check by dusting the plants, and especially the growing parts, with one of the derris dusts. This dust is quite harmless to the plant, and to be of any use against the caterpillars (the butterfly itself does not harm the plants) it must be applied every seven to ten days. Other remedies are suggested, but none is as effective as a derris dust.

Crop. Distance between rows (inches) Thin out to (inches) Manures. Recommended (quantities per square yard) Dwarf beans 24 Nil Rotted farm manure. Super 2 oz. Peas (dwarf) . . 18-24 Nil Rotted farm manure. Super 2 oz. Lettuce . . 15-18 8-12 Rotted farm manure. Blood and bone or * super 4 oz. (liquid manure or nitrate of x soda 1 oz. to 4 gals, water during growing season). Carrots . . 12-15 3-6 Blood and bone or super 2 oz. Beet . . - . . 12-15 4-6 Blood and bone or super 2 oz. Swedes . . . . 15-18 6-8 Blood and bone or super 2 oz.

Seed Planting Recommendations.

.• Crop. Distance between rows '■ (inches) ' Distance between plants (inches) ■ Manures Recommended • v (quantities per square yard) Leeks . . 18 8 Rotted farm manure. Blood and bone or super 2 oz. Sulphate of ammonia 1 oz. Savoy cabbage . . 30 30 Rotted farm manure. Lime (ground) 4 oz. Blood and bone or super 2 oz. Cauliflower ... 30 . 30 Rotted farm manure. Lime (ground) 4 oz. Blood and bone or super 2 oz. Brussel sprouts - 36 36 Rotted farm manure. Lime (ground) 4 oz. Blood and bone or super 2 oz. Celery : . ■. . 18 12 Rotted farm manure. B.ood and bone and super 2 oz. Sulphate of potash 4 oz. Liquid manure during growth. Tomatoes . . 36 30 Blood and bone or super 2 oz. Sulphate of potash 1 oz.

Transplanting Recommendations.