HORTICULTURE.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XXXVI, Issue 3, 20 March 1928, Page 213

HORTICULTURE.

tobacco-leAf. The operation of harvesting the tobacco crop'will now be nearing completionindeed, much of the leaf is already cured. On this point it is well to be certain, as unless the leaf-stems are well dried out there is a danger of them mildewing. After curing, the sooner the leaves are stripped from the plant-stalks the better. Commence by conditioning the leaf — is, admit or create a damp atmosphere, the result of which will quickly be seen by the blade of the leaf becoming flaccid and soft. In this condition only may it be handled without damage. The neglect of this precaution is the cause of considerable loss by depreciation every year. The method, then, is to take the stalk in the left hand and strip the leaves carefully without damage. Meanwhile examine the leaf and place it in its special grade. A dozen or so of the leaves are then taken, and the butts of the stems are bound with a tobacco-leaf used as a tie, which is finished by the stem end being tucked through the centre of the butts. In this way all the leaves are made up into " bands.” The grades adopted depend on the purpose for which the leaf is to be used and the market, but generally it is based on colour and quality. The unbroken leaves of best quality are usually found about the middle of the stalk. Keep the grades separate. When enough grade leaf has been accumulated it should be baled, branded, and consigned. In doing this care is again necessary to see that the leaf is in right condition. Putting dry leaf into slack bales is a poor way of treating a crop that has cost so much labour. To prevent breaking the leaves they should be just sufficiently damp to be pliable. Build the bales in a press and make them sufficiently firm to avoid movement within the bale when it is handled. Where the grower decides to hold the leaf it is important to avoid holding it in a shed subject to extreme changes in weather conditions. Tobacco is a product that requires good storage. In most cases it would probably be best to bulk the leaf on a platform and cover it securely with a canvas cover. In doing this there should be no attempt to carry out a fermentation of the bulk, and, in any case, the tobacco should be examined frequently at first, in order to see that a high temperature does not develop. treatment OF tomato AREAS. The outdoor tomato crop will soon be finished, and where it is desired to replant the land with this crop next season it is specially desirable to promptly and carefully clean up and burn the remains of the old crop — and tops. The practice of some growers to sow

down the area between the rows with a cover-crop in the autumn is much to be recommended. The old tomato-plants can then be lifted, and the cover-crop remains to mature. In these motor-car days, when strawy manure is not available, the green cover-crop is the only alternative method for conveniently supplying humus —that is, carbon, fibre, nitrogen, &c. —to the soil, raising the temperature, improving its mechanical condition, and supplying an ingredient that is otherwise ver y expensive. SMALL-FRUITS AND NUTS. Plantings of strawberries in their second or third year should now be making a good recovery after the cropping season. Take the opportunity every fine spell offers of putting the hoe through this crop and keeping the weeds down. Cape and Chinese gooseberries, tree-tomatoes, passion-fruit, walnuts, hazelnuts, chestnuts, and almonds will now be ripening. Do not let the nuts lie on the ground long enough to discolour. A good method often is to lay a cloth round a tree and shake the branches with a pole, when all nuts near maturity will fall and are easily gathered. If this is done at short intervals the harvesting is greatly simplified. Spread the nuts in trays in a dry airy position and dry them up well, going through them occasionally and stirring them over. In this way rancid and mildewed nuts will be avoided. Riddles will afterwards take out small nuts and waste, and a little hand-picking should then produce samples that are satisfactory. Some of these crops can be grown in odd corners and waste spaces ; they are worth more consideration than is commonly given in this country. VEGETABLE CROPS. The dry summer experienced - will be responsible for rather a lean time so far as winter vegetables are concerned. The quantity will be short and the quality not quite up to the usual standard. Savoy cabbages planted shortly before Christmas are among the best in that line. They had the benefit of some rain and got established before the dry weather. Moulding of the celery crop should now be finished. Spring cabbage can be planted out Sow cabbage, cauliflower, and lettuce for planting out in early spring. The lettuce seedlings often suffer from “ rust ”if the winter season is severe. The best preventive is to give them the shelter of a cold frame ; but here again is a danger of “ damping off ” —a trouble that is sometimes severe and often not perceived until the plants are put out. In the winter keep the foliage of these plants dry, but give them plenty of air. Sow rather thinly. Harvesting marrows, pumpkins, onions, and potatoes will make the coming month a busy one for many. Consider each crop carefully, and decide if it is suitable for long storage ; grade it well and give it good accommodation. SOIL COMPOSTS AND LIME. The question of the use of quicklime as an ingredient in the com-post-heap has been raised recently. Quicklime, like everything else, is under certain circumstances of very great value, and under others it is the cause of injury and loss. It is of value as an addition to a drained swamp soil that is heavily charged with humus. Its effect there will

be to further decompose the humus and liberate the nitrogen, correct acidity, and so permit the operation of the bacteria of fermentation which transform the nitrogen into nitrates, a soluble form in which it is immediately available to the plant. It must also be realized that lime is readily washed from the soil. Its mechanical effect on a stiff, heavy soil inclined to clod is well known. Again, some plants have a strong partiality for lime —the legumes, for instance. But where quicklime forms an ingredient with animal manures or sulphate of ammonia in composts its effect causes great loss owing to its rapid action in liberating the nitrogen as ammonia-gas. Also, it is to be remembered that an alkaline soil is unsuitable for some plants, and, as it appears from recent experiments, striking cuttings.

For agricultural purposes quicklime is rarely used as it comes from the limekilns. It is then a lime oxide, and is usually exposed to the atmosphere, from which it slowly draws moisture, which causes the burnt rock to crumble. It is then lime hydrate and in a suitable state for adding to the soil. For light soils lime carbonate ground fine—that is, lime in its natural stateis often preferred. The outstanding effect in the use of quicklime is its rapid action in decomposing organic material, an effect that is useful in horticulture when operated in moderation. Excessive use just means burning up important plantfoods to waste.

—W. C. Hyde,

Horticulturist, Wellington.