HORTICULTURE.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XXXVI, Issue 2, 20 February 1928, Page 132

HORTICULTURE.

THE TOBACCO CROP. Bright tobacco as it comes from the flue barn requires careful and experienced handling, or it quickly depreciates in quality. The proper method after curing is to condition the leafthat is, to bring it to a soft pliable state in which it may be handled without breaking, and to approximately grade the leaves for colour. On a platform a foot or so above the floor in the bulking or grading room the leaves are then carefully stacked (“ bulked ” is the usual term) with the butts outwards, any convenient length and width, and 5 ft. to 6 ft. high. The natural result is for the stack to heat, and during the process a careful watch is kept to make sure the temperature does not rise too high. Should it rise much above 80° F. the material is taken down and rebulked, the leaf from the inside being placed towards the outside of the new bulk. After the completion of this process the leaves are carefully graded into classes of bright, medium, and dark colour, tied into hands, and packed for the market. This is a general outline of the processes often adopted in the handling of flue-cured leaf ; but for commercial purposes the judgment necessary for determining the right condition of the leaf, proper grades, and suitable humidity and temperatures can only be acquired by practical experience under -the personal tuition of an instructor with a properly equipped plant. In the case of air-cured tobacco the process is simpler. Instead of one week, some six weeks are necessary to complete the cure. As the cooler weather arrives, care is necessary to prevent the leaf being chilled by cold and damp, which are apt to set up mildew. For this reason harvesting should proceed with as little delay as possible. tomatoes , The weather, so unpropitious for the outdoor tomato crop at the beginning of the season, has since been better for this crop, and those who nursed their plants successfully through the bleak conditions of early summer should now be receiving their well-earned reward. Potting-soil for next season should now be stacked and matured. In some instances it will have been already twelve months in the stack. If it has not already been prepared, this should be done at once, or trouble in the seed-boxes is inevitable. Better still, increase the quantity and lay in a stock for 1929 also. Such methods are the easiest and cheapest way of overcoming most of the diseases to which young seedling plants are liable. small-fruits. The demand for Cape gooseberries and passion-fruit is steadily increasing, and the crops now being gathered should find a ready

market. Both of these useful plants are from Peru or thereabouts, as are so many others of our most useful economic plants. If the old canes of raspberry and loganberry brakes have not yet been cut out and burnt, this should be done now. Also crowded young growth in red and white currants and gooseberries should be thinned, the idea being to ripen the remaining wood and spurs in readiness for the next season's crop. This is also the best time to deal with most diseases which affect these crops. Spraying will be the best method, although the advantage of turning in a flock of poultry for a period now and again at this season is worth consideration in many instances. The destruction of many insects and larvae is only one of the economic benefits derived from this practice. Where organic manures are not available in sufficient quantity, a good dressing of bonedust down the alleys and a sowing of a quick, hardy, green covercrop would now be of great benefit. Where new plantations of bush fruits are to be made, the preparation of the land should be given every consideration, as results chiefly depend on a rich, deep, clean tilth ; once the plants are established only shallow ploughing can be given. It is best to give this early attention, so that the land may settle down in time for planting in early winter. VEGETABLE CROPS. The winter crop of savoy, cauliflower, broccoli, celery, and leeks should now be well established. It should be remembered that the last two especially require generous feeding in order to produce the best results. As celery takes about six weeks to blanch, and this operation should be completed before hard frosts commence, a commencement may be made now by moulding the crop up slightly. The work should be completed in about three operations with intervals of a week or fortnight in between. The seed-beds of spring cabbage and cauliflower should be* watched, so that good plants may be ready for planting out next month .- Complete the preparation of the land for them now by frequent hoeing to kill all seedling weeds. In districts where it is necessary to sow main crop and white onions in the autumn for transplanting in early spring, the beds should now be prepared and sown down. Select a piece of clean land in a good open position. If manures are required, apply a moderate dressing of bonedust, wood ashes, and soot, and turn this in before firming the ground for sowing. THE HOME GARDEN. The month of March is the best time for sowing down lawns and greens, especially in the drier localities. Before doing so care must be taken to see that the land is clean and firm with an even surface. As the success of the work depends chiefly on this preparation it should not be hurried, but completed with the greatest care. A moderate tilth should then be made by raking the surface, and the seed sown when no wind is blowing. If it is then raked in evenly the job will be finished until the grass is ready for cutting in six to eight weeks' time. Where planting has to be done the selection of trees and shrubs should now be completed, and the order given to the nurseryman for

delivery in the month of May. As before stated, planting of this kind is often unsuitable and too varied. If careful study is given to plansand the permanent character of the work demands — there is no reason why it should not be harmonious and original. Nowhere else in the world is nature more kind in helping the gardener to make gardens of taste and beauty.

In gardens where native plants predominate the association of hydrangeas and fuchsias in the excellent varieties now available have been admirably demonstrated lately. They are effective in providing suitable summer bloom in the partly shaded sections of the garden which the native plants do not provide. Among a few natives too rare in our gardens is kaiku (Parsonsia heterofihylla), the New Zealand jasmine, a hardy climber that is found growing at the foot of the ramarama (Myrtus bullata) or other small tree, up which it twines and displays its scented flowers in spring among the foliage of its host. It appears to be a happy combination that is mutually satisfactory.

We are inclined to be rather apologetic about our native orchids, but here are two that deserve high praise in any company : Raupeka (Earina suaveolens) is a hardy winter-flowering species sometimes found on steep clay hills partly shaded by bush, growing in a little soil and leaf mould that has formed a drift in the fine network of the roots of some ground fern. Wet or dry it seems quite happy, as in summer often its roots appear so dry that most plants would wither up. In a similar position, and sometimes together, will be found Dendrobiwn Cunninghamii, a summer-flowering orchid, its curved wiry stems and small foliage having all the grace of the popular asparagus grown in hanging-baskets ; but to these attractions it adds its much larger and curious flowers. These two orchids are admirably adapted for hangingbaskets on the veranda, the walls of a fp.rnprv nr a nlapp in a nar+iallw shaded rock-garden.

-W. C. Hyde,

Horticiblturist, Wdlington.