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SEASONAL NOTES

THE FARM.

FIELD CROPS AND PASTURES. ' '.- . - - Early Autumn Ploughing. Stubble and land that has grown early soft turnips should be ploughed as soon as possible. If the land is required early next spring it will be good policy in many districts to put it into a catch-crop for feeding-off, as, apart from the food furnished, the weeds are thus controlled and the fertility of the land built up. On the other hand, where winter fallowing is commonly practised or desired for any special reason, the longer the ground is turned up to the weather' the better heart will it be in during the following season. The value of a winter fallow, especially; where the climatic conditions are , fairly hard, is very great, allowing, as it, does, for the mellowing action of frosts and rain, and assisting in the complete decay of stubble and weeds left from the preceding season’s crops. • . ; ■ -T-- ■■■ :. w -; : - Winter and Spring Forage Crops., The sowing of forage crops for winter and spring feed should be continued in March. If the crop is to be cut and fed out in the early spring Green’s Ruakura or one of the white oats, such as Garton’s, will give the heaviest weight of material. If, on the other hand, the crop is to be fed down several times and then let go for a hay or grain crop Algerian oats or Algerian oats and tares are better. If oats alone, a sowing at the rate of 2-1- to 3 bushels per acre may be made, and when tares are included sow. 2 bushels of oats and 1 of tares. .Peas are sometimes substituted for tares, but, as a rule, they do not stand the winter and early spring feeding. Any good phosphatic manure, at the rate of . 2 cwt. per acre—say, half super and half Nauru —will be found suitable. • Pasture-establishment. ’ The sowing of pastures, both temporary and permanent, should be pushed along, so as to give the clovers a chance of establishing before the cold weather sets in. In cases where rape has been fed off early, and is not good enough to keep for a second feeding, grass may be sown to advantage. Every care should be exercised in the cultural operations. Owing to the fact that the grass crop is the most common one grown it has been comparatively neglected in this respect. A fine, well-packed tilth, with moisture near the surface, is the ideal. If no roller is available consolidation may be obtained by, driving a flock of sheep backwards and forwards over the field. For average soils and conditions a good permanent mixture is somewhat as follows : Cocksfoot, 14 lb. ; perennial ryegrass, 16 lb. ; timothy, 41b.; crested dogstail, 2 lb. ; red clover, 41b.; white clover, 2 lb., per acre. , In- the Auckland Provincial. District considerable areas of ploughable land are being brought in each year from the virgin state, and sown down to grass for the first time after a root crop. Such land may be roughly classified into two types ■ —light and heavy. Much of the light country is of volcanic origin and' responds remarkably to top-dressing. Generally the light country, if reasonably level, will hold rye-grass fairly well, if regularly top-dressed with phosphatic fertilizers. The heavier soils, especially the gum-land soils of the better type, dry badly in the autumn, and perennial ’ rye-grass quickly disappears. Cocksfoot, crested dogstail, and timothy hold fairly well, and for average conditions-south of Auckland City —■ when sowing a pasture for the first time, and the land is intended" for” dairying, a mixture of somewhat the following composition should be used: Italian rye-grass, 4 lb. ; cocksfoot, 15 lb. ; crested -dogstail, 4 lb. ; perennial rye-grass, 8 lb/; Poa pratensis, 1 lb. ; timothy,

2 lb. ; white clover, 2 lb. ; red clover, 2 lb. ; Lotus hispidus, 1 lb., per ' acre. Such a mixture will hold fairly well on the better-class heavy land, and the necessary spring feed can be provided , by temporary pastures of Italian ryegrass and red clover sown in February or March. ' Mowing and Harrowing of Pastures. ... After wet seasons like the present one pastures which have been carrying dairy stock throughout the summer will often have a patchy, ‘ rough growth, and a good plan, where conditions permit, is to put the mower over them. . Dry or store cattle will readily eat the cut stuff, and the tripod or chain harrows can then be used to the greatest advantage. If this is done during March, and the field closed for a few weeks, fresh growth will be provided for later use. This method utilizes rough feed that would otherwise be wasted and trodden down, and prevents the smothering-out of many grasses. The harrows should break up and spread all animal-manure that has been dropped during the summer months. The manure being evenly spread'gives the maximum results, encouraging growth before the cold weather sets in. Grass and clover seeds that have fallen will germinate more freely when given light and air, and better growth of seedlings is promoted. In this way the pasture becomes renovated . at, comparatively small cost. Top-dressing and Liming. Top-dressing of pastures in March is fairly common in districts where winter milking is practised. By top-dressing early with a quick-acting phosphatic fertilizer a good autumn growth of grass is obtained, which considerably lessens the need for supplementary. winter feeding with roots, provided a reasonable provision of hay has been made. In many localities the land will later on become too wet for carting, and where such is the case those paddocks requiring liming should be treated in good time. The question of the use of burnt lime or carbonate of lime (crushed limestone) is largely governed by the factor of available supply. In south Otago and Southland, where liming is. so essential, a dressing of 1 ton of burnt lime per acre is a good standard. < . Lucerne. Young stands of lucerne, sown earlier this season, will in most cases have been cut once, and will be ready for cutting again about the end of March. As soon as this second cut has. been removed the land may with advantage be given a good harrowing with the tine harrows or light cultivator. This should be sufficiently severe to destroy most of the weeds and thoroughly loosen the surface of the land, thus causing a vigorous growth of lucerne. A good working at this period will generally save a great deal of trouble in subsequent years. March is also a good month for renovating lucerne-fields that have been neglected, as usually the weather is dry enough to destroy the grass and weeds that are cultivated out. If there is much grass the disk harrow can be used to cut it up, but the disks must be run as straight as possible. After disking, the sods may be thoroughly broken up by means of the tine harrows and cultivator. Where the stand is old and thin and nearing the end of its life it is good practice to sow a few pounds of Italian rye-grass or a bushel or two of oats after this cultivation. The rye-grass or oats will provide good early feeding and occupy the land, which otherwise may grow weeds or useless grasses. • Established stands of lucerne may be grazed from now on till the end of the growing season. Young stands will be better not grazed at all during the first year. 'Where it is considered that a lucerne-stand requires lime this is best applied in autumn. . Irrigation Farming. In Central Otago settlers practising irrigation must make provision to carry out the final watering of their land in March, as the supply of water from the races will be cut off at the end of the month. This especially applies to the soaking with water of uncultivated ground intended to be broken up during the winter. There is no doubt that by this means ploughing is made, easier and more satisfactory. A start should be made to break up new land, and this operation not left until later on in the winter, when, in all probability, the ground will be frozen so hard that ploughing will prove out of the question.

> . The Hay Crop. Although it has been an excellent season for pastures, the hay crop suffered badly from the wet weather, and much of the hay that was saved was got in in bad condition. A wet season upsets the ordinary method of saving hay, but if extra help had been available much of the hay could have been got in in better condition. In Scotland, where the farmers are used to wet weather at haymaking, they cure the hay in very large cocks well and carefully built to turn, the rain. Hay can be cocked in this way when still fairly green, and will cure and dry in the cock without heating. To turn the rain a cock must be carefully built up from the bottom like a small stack ; it is useless to expect one run together with haysweeps to turn any water. . Agricultural Instruction Service.

THE ORCHARD.

f . HARVESTING, GRADING, AND STORING. The orchard harvest is at its height during the month of March, leading varieties of apples—Dunn’s, Jonathans, London Pippin, and Delicious—and most varieties of pears being then gathered. The flavour of pears is often depreciated through the fruit being left too long on the tree ; the juice and aroma are usually best developed by picking as soon as maturity is reached and affording proper storage. Fruit receiving such treatment travels well and with little loss. Second-grade fruit requires the careful attention of the orchardist; there is a common tendency for cull fruit to be allowed to get into this class. A fruitgrader must not merely grade out the “ fancy ” fruit, but he must also see that the second grade is kept clear of culls. The market in the past has suffered badly from mixed and low-grade fruit. 'Packing fruit true to grade is sound business, and the main factor in successful marketing. The fruit-store will again be in demand, and, before recharging, a good clean-up will be required. A knowledge of fungus, bacterial, and insect life, even if only an elementary one, makes one realize the need for cleanliness in a fruit-store. Fumigation, spraying, or washing are different ways of dealing with the problem. Apples and pears can be stored in boxes stacked in tiers of six or seven, and raised high enough off the ground to permit a good draught beneath. To build the stacks true one must start with a level foundation. Each variety, separated into its respective sizes, should be kept together, and a passage left sufficiently wide and straight to operate the store. For the first few weeks considerable moisture is given off, and ample ventilation-indeed, a draught required to carry it away. ' GENERAL.' A common oversight at this period is the neglect to spray the late pip-fruit crop until an inspection reveals the fact . that late infections of black-spot and leaf-roller have caused rather serious damage. The former is apt to recur during the cooler moist days of autumn, while every owner of fruit for storage has a wholesome dread of the attacks of the leaf-roller caterpillar. Spraying with limesulphur and arsenate of lead should therefore be carried out to prevent such trouble. . Where cover-crops are needed, peas, oats and vetches, or oats and horse-beans may still be sown. The application of 2 cwt. or 3 cwt.' of manure per acre at the same time is usually an advantage.. ■ Autumn winds are apt to damage grafts made in early spring. These should be looked over, and those likely to be blown out made secure.

■ —W. C. Hyde, Orchard Instructor, Nelson.

CITRUS FRUITS. Contrary to expectations at this season of the year the weather conditions have remained wet, and although this has been beneficial to citrus-growers as regards inducing growth, it has also been conducive to the rapid spread of brown-rot. This particular disease thrives under humid conditions, and, as there is every appearance of the continuation of moist weather, orchardists are advised to pay particular attention to the immediate removal of any affected fruits, destroying them by burning. Afterwards the trees upon which the disease has been noticed should

receive a dressing of from 2 lb. to 3 lb. of pulverized sulphate of iron per full-bearing tree, applied to the ground directly beneath the spread of the branches and lightly forked in. This will assist in the control of the disease, but the application of bordeaux. 4-4-40, as advised in last month's notes, should be continued monthly under such conditions, for the control not only of this disease, but of other fungoid diseases attacking the trees. Cultivation should receive as much attention as is possible at this busy season of the year. It has been noticed that in many cases citrus orchards have suffered from the exceptional frosts experienced during last winter, and that insufficient care has been paid to the removal of frosted parts. These should be removed immediately without fail. • FIREBLIGHT. Further tip-infection on apples may be looked for from time to time during this month. The treatment.recommended for this is the same as previously—removal and destruction by burning, and painting over of the wounds as already advised. Commercial growers generally are making a splendid fight in the control of this disease. Vigilance should be maintained if the disease is to be kept under reasonable control. Failure to effectively deal with fireblight immediately it has appeared in the orchard may mean the loss of entire trees, and, indeed, entire orchards. . —J. W. Collard, Orchard Instructor, Auckland.

POULTRY-KEEPING.

FURTHER POINTS IN CULLING. Last month the matter of culling unprofitable hens was touched upon, March being mentioned as the best time of year for the purpose ; some advice was also given in regard to the carrying-out of this important work. .The necessity of acting upon the advice given and weeding out every bird that has passed its best period of production is again urged. Of late the average poultry-keeper, owing to the high price charged for foodstuffs and the low price received for eggs, is having a hard task to' make both ends meet. The best way to meet this position is by retaining in the flock only birds that are paying their way, or that are likely to do so in the near future. The food bill will thus be reduced, and there will be a saving of labour, this result, generally speaking, being obtained without any appreciable reduction in the number of eggs produced. . The reason for stating that March is the best time to cull a flock of hens is that at this period of the year, or, in other words, towards the termination of the laying season, certain signs manifest themselves in individual birds as indicative of laying-capacity. These signs are not only a guide as to whether a bird is in a laying-condition or not, but they also indicate to a high degree whether it has produced heavily during the past laying season, and, further, whether or not it is likely to prove a good layer during the following season. Some persons are specially gifted in having a natural eye for form, and are thereby able to quickly observe the change that takes place in the appearance of individual birds. This faculty of discriminating between the good and the poor hen, however, is one which may ' easily be developed by observation and study, and, better still, by first being given a practical demonstration by a person' of experience. Once this qualification is acquired, its value to the poultry-keeper cannot be overestimated. It enables him not only to eliminate poor producers from his flock, but also to select for future breeding purposes the birds best suited for the maintenance of a high-standard laying-flock. . ' ' In order to assist the novice in the work of culling, some of the chief points to be observed are here enumerated, but, naturally, to apply them in a proper manner requires practice. These guides can be made use of only previous to the time of moulting, as no one character of a bird can be judged'with any degree of accuracy once the moulting process has begun. There should therefore be no delay in the carrying-out of a thorough culling campaign. v ; . In the first place, the time Of moulting gives a good guide to laying-capacity. It is the long-season layer, or, in other words, the bird that lays well in other than the natural laying season, that is desired and is the most profitable to keep. To do this a bird must necessarily be a late moulter, as the laying season usually ends when the moulting-period begins. Therefore the birds that show evidence of being early moulters should ’ be culled ' out, and the . late moulters retained for laying and breeding purposes. ’’ It must be remembered that- this test only applies where the birds have been hatched at about the same time, and have been fed and managed under similar local conditions. As an instance, where first- and second-season birds are running together it will usually be found that the - former will moult first, so that some allowance must be made for this. Especially is this the case where the older birds have been selected as late moulters the previous season. ■ No rule is capable of universal application, however, and exceptions must be . allowed for. ’ In addition to being a late moulter the. good layer will usually bear a shabby appearance at this period of the year. For this reason alone such birds are often discarded by the. novice.' In the case of white varieties the plumage, although tight and dense, becomes more or less '.straw-coloured. This is especially so where the birds have free range or where good-sized runs are provided. The head also becomes more or less devoid' of feathers. This, with a clean face, and bold prominent eyes, is an undoubted sign of strong constitutional vigour. The legs will appear more or less white and decidedly flat, although they may have been very yellow and more or less round during the pullet stage. The fact of the legs becoming more flat and the colour leaving them is no • doubt due to the yellow fat being drawn from them to supply the egg-yolk with its yellow pigment. Obviously, the greater the layer the greater will be the tax on the fat-content of the legs, and consequently the more flat and bleached the legs will become.

What applies in the case of the legs does so in like degree to the body-skin, particularly about the vent, and also to the beak. It may be mentioned that hens running on a grass range do not usually bleach out in the legs to the same degree as those kept in confinement. Here again local conditions must be,taken into account in applying the test. . - . The body of the good layer is usually deep. A well-developed crop and abdomen are imperative, as the bird must have large capacity for food and the digestive power to convert this to the manufacture of eggs, and for the maintenance of the strong bodily vigour which is demanded in the high-type laying-bird. The skin of the abdomen should be soft and flexible to the touch, so as to allow for contraction and expansion in accordance 'with the bird’s laying-condition. Beware of the bird that is hard and coarse to the touch around the abdominal region ; this indicates that it is converting its food to fat and flesh instead of, as in the case of the good layer, into eggs. ■ . . This point also applies in the case of birds above the normal weight of their breed. Such birds may exhibit a well-groomed, healthy : appearance, but nevertheless in-the majority of cases they do not pay to keep. On the other hand, the good layer at this period of the year will be found in a lean condition, and, as already indicated, generally presents a worn-out, unkempt, rough-and-ready appearance. The reason for this is obvious : it could not be expected to lay on fat while ’ producing a maximum egg-yield. • <•'" ' ’ ’ Summarizing the foregoing points, the birds that should be culled are those that show signs of early moulting ; those with a well-kept plumage, and which .are above the normal weight of their breed ; those with hard development in the abdominal region; and those with points indicating a weak constitution, such as dull sunken eyes, heavy well-feathered eyebrows, bright-yellow legs, loose feathering, ’ and ' sluggish appearance. ’’ ■ ’ .

Some poultry-keepers practically refrain from culling their hens until they have passed their second season of production, but this is a mistake. Drastic culling should take place after the pullet’s first laying season. Indeed, poultrykeepers would be well advised to cull out all undersized, weak-constitutioned pullets even before they commence to lay. ’ Usually such stock not only produce small eggs, but are also susceptible to every passing ailment. In any flock few "birds which have passed their second season of production will really pay. to keep for another year, and it is only the person with the trained eye who is able to •distinguish these. Culling unprofitable stock is one of the essentials in successful ■poultry-keeping, and . yet there are probably thousands of people who keep their birds almost until they die of old age. In these circumstances it is of little wonder that the question as to whether or not poultry-keeping pays is so often debated.. , ■ • . SELECTION OF BREEDING-HENS. .... . Because the drone types have been eliminated from the flock and only useful "birds remain on the plant it is not to be taken- for granted that'all of the latter are suitable for the breeding-pen. A bird may show abundant evidence of possessing productive power, but something more is required. If everything is sacrificed to . egg-yield, the other important points in the make-up of a good "breeding-specimen will suffer as a consequence. Combined with the desired constitutional points and features suggestive of laying - capacity, due consideration must be given to breed-characteristics. Intending breeders should not be misled by the foolish advice, so often given by inexperienced persons, that the "best layer is necessarily the best breeder. If a .uniform, heavy-producing flock is to be bred and maintained, an ideal type, in addition to productive capacity, must be aimed for. - In this connection the novice who is really anxious to build rip a high-standard flock of layers is well advised to secure a copy of the “ New Zealand Utility-poultry Standards,” obtainable from the Department at a cost of 3s., postage free. This contains plates of the types aimed at in the popular breeds of poultry, together with weight clauses and. general standard requirements. . Another important point is to avoid for the breeding-pen undersized specimens •of their breed, even though such birds have proved themselves good layers. They may succeed in an egg-laying test, or even break records, but it is seldom or never that they produce desirable progeny. It is always a good plan to choose for the breeding-pen a . hen slightly larger than that desired in a laying-flock. Always remember that,; as ■ in the case of other classes of live-stock,. the small birds will come readily enough without specially breeding for them. On the other hand, oversized specimens should certainly be guarded against.

After selecting the best specimens for future breeding purposes, these should be carefully marked and placed by themselves, preferably on a free range. This will enable them to recoup after their exhausting laying season, and they will thus be in a healthy vigorous condition when the breeding season comes round.

—F. C. Brown, Chief Poultry Instructor.

THE APIARY.

FINAL EXTRACTING OPERATIONS. The honey season up to the time of writing has been very disappointing. Thebees throughout have been in excellent condition and the pastures all that couldbe desired, but the weather conditions have not been in favour of the apiarist. Most of the time it has been too cold and showery either for clover to secretenectar or for bees to fly freely. There is just a possibility that weather conditions may yet improve in time for the bees to add considerably to their present stores, but this is . most unlikely. The honey-flow, as a rule, closes about themiddle of February, and very rarely continues into March. Beekeepers generally will no doubt have done most of their extracting before the end of February, asit is generally recognized that this work should be attended to as far as possiblebefore robbing starts. The . bees are very difficult to handle to any extent immediately after theclose of the honey-flow, and, in consequence of this, outdoor feeding is sometimesresorted to to bring about conditions approaching as nearly as possible those of a natural flow. Some American beekeepers recommend feeding a syrup consisting; of i part sugar to 9 parts of water for this purpose. As a temporary expedient, to tide the beekeeper over a very trying period this may occasionally be practised,, but it cannot be recommended as a general practice. A simpler and better plan, for dealing with robbers while taking off honey for extracting is to put out a few supers of wet combs —combs from which the honey has been extracted. Thesesupers should be placed on a bottom-board and covered with a roof, giving thebees just the ordinary hive-entrance as a means of access to the combs. But although this answers admirably as a means of attracting robbers whilemore honey is being taken off for extracting, it cannot be recommended as a. means of getting the extracted combs cleaned up. The bees do not mend any broken combs - under such circumstances. There is no better plan for the latterpurpose than to put the supers .of empty comb back' on the hives. The bees may store the honey in a few of the centre combs, but they can be induced toremove this by taking out the combs that have been cleaned up and spacing the remainder some distance apart, and, for preference, so placing a mat under the combs that a small space is left- at the end for the bees to come up. TheDeadman super-cleaner is an excellent contrivance for getting the bees to clean up the combs after extraction. It is simply a large bottom-board capable of holding one or more stacks of supers in addition to a colony of bees. Means of access for the colony of bees are provided by cutting the slats on . which thesupers rest.. ; It is to be deplored that some beekeepers put the cappings outside for thebees to clean up. While there may be no objection to such a practice in districtsquite free from foul-brood, it should on no account be resorted to when there isany possibility of this disease existing. TREATMENT OF FOUL-BROOD. ' It is now too late to adopt the treatment known as the McEvoy system, and yet it is advisable to do as much as possible to reduce the risk of infection spreading during the winter or spring months through the robbing of infected colonies.. With this object in view there should be set aside as many combs of fully-capped honey as may be necessary, these being taken from colonies known to be freefrom disease. When brood-rearing has practically ceased all the bees of the infected colony should be shaken into a clean, empty hive, and left until on thepoint of starvation. A few of the reserve combs of sealed honey may then begiven, and the hive filled up with empty combs. A safer plan, still, would be to remove the queen (if valued) from the infected colony immediately, and form a three- or four-frame ■ nucleus colony with her,.

taking the bees and brood required from one or more clean colonies. The infected colony must then be destroyed. Apiarists should make a point of adopting one of these' two courses if foul-brood is present, and should not take the risk of infection spreading during the winter or spring. PACKING HONEY FOR EXPORT. Beekeepers are reminded that it is now necessary to pack honey intended for export in new tins that have not been used for any other purpose. The use of benzine-tins was allowed for a short time during the war period, but this concession has been withdrawn. The tins should contain exactly 56 lb. or 60 lb. net, and should be packed in cases rg|in. by 9 j in. by 14 in. The ends of the cases should be of Jin., and the sides, tops, and bottoms of not less than Jin. dressed timber. As most beekeepers packing honey for export ship through the New Zealand Co-operative Honey Producers’ Association, they will obtain further information from that company. Independent shippers may obtain copies of the export regulations and any other particulars in this regard on application to the Department. _ H w . Gilling, Apiary Instructor.

THE GARDEN.

VEGETABLE-CULTURE. Tomatoes : Irish blight is causing losses in a number of places. This disease, however, can be almost entirely avoided by planting in an open situation on welldrained soil, by avoiding the use of manures or fertilizers that cause over-luxuriant growth, and by consistent spraying before the disease appears. A bad attack of leaf-spot in a number of glasshouses has come under my notice. The houses are 40 ft. wide . and 150 ft. long, the plants being arranged in rows 2 ft. apart and 1 ft. apart in the rows. At the time of writing the plants are over 6 ft. high. In this crowded state it is. quite impossible for air to pass freely through the foliage, and as a consequence the atmosphere is kept in a humid and unwholesome state. Further, none of the old or diseased leaves have been removed, so that the disease has spread till scarcely a sound leaf remains. The plants should have been a third less in number, which would have secured a better circulation of air. The old leaves should have been cut off as soon as the fruit below them was gathered, thus securing drier conditions on the soil-surface, which would beneficially affect the whole of the house. These measures, together with spraying—impossible in such a crowded —would have prevented the disease assuming the proportions of an epidemic. The smaller number of plants could have been properly attended with the same amount of labour as expended on the larger number, and with far better results. ■ An early kind of' cabbage, such as Flower, of the Spring, should be sown at once to provide heads from towards the end of September. Lettuce-seed for the earliest crop should also be sown. Cabbages, brussels sprouts, broccoli, and cauliflowers for cutting about Eastertime should have been planted in December and January, and should by now be growing freely. If they have not made a satisfactory start give a dressing of nitrate of soda— J oz. per square repeating the application about four or five weeks later. If immediate results are desired apply the nitrate in a liquid form, 1 oz. in 3 gallons of water being sufficient for about twenty plants. The surface soil should be kept loose and free from weeds by shallow hoeing, or with a Planet Jr. cultivator. If the soil has not been supplied with fertilizer this can be applied before cultivating. Blood-and-bone is suitable, applied at the rate of 2 oz. to 4 oz. per square yard according to the quality of the soil. Spinach is one of the most valuable winter vegetables, and is not subject to any special pest; it can therefore be regarded as a sure crop. Sow at once in drills. 12 in. to 15 in. apart, and thin the plants to 8 in. or 10 in. apart in the drills. For commercial crops thinning is not done, as the plants are pulled out by the root and tied in bundles. In private gardens only the leaves are gathered, and the larger these are the better they are in quality. Turnips for winter use should be sown about the middle of March. Sow two kindsSnowball for first use, and a yellow-fleshed variety to stand longer. These latter are not well flavoured during warm weather, but. when the weather becomes cold they are decidedly superior to the white-fleshed sorts.

Onions will, be near ripening. Keep the soil clean by shallow cultivation. Do nothing in the way of feeding or watering at this stage ; a clean, open soilsurface, will give them all the assistance that it is safe to give.. Breaking down the tops may be advisable at times, especially if wet weather occurs, but -it is seldom necessary, and is best avoided. Care must be taken not. to rupture the stem in doing it, or a new top will grow up through the break and ruin the bulb. Pumpkins and marrows that are to be kept for winter use should be cut as soon as the rind' becomes so hard as to be difficult to pierce with a thumb-nail. At this stage the flesh has not become thinned to a great extent, nor has the rind fully hardened. . Provided they are not knocked about, these gourds will keep through winter. A good storage place is under trees that will throw off most of the rain and protect them, from frost, but they are safer under cover in a building.

— W. H. Taylor,

: Horticulturist.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/periodicals/NZJAG19230220.2.13

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XXVI, Issue 2, 20 February 1923, Page 112

Word Count
5,560

SEASONAL NOTES New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XXVI, Issue 2, 20 February 1923, Page 112

SEASONAL NOTES New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XXVI, Issue 2, 20 February 1923, Page 112

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