VITICULTURE.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XXIII, Issue 5, 21 November 1921, Page 310

VITICULTURE.

J. C. WOODFIN,

Vine and Wine Instructor.

THE VINEHOUSE

Several specimens of vine-leaves, shoots, and berries have been sent in recently for advice as to the nature of the. disease from which they were suffering, ' and as to the remedy to be applied. No signs of disease were discovered, but in every case there was what is known as scalding or browning. This usually occurs in the early morning when the sun is rising, and is caused by the effect of its heat on the foliage still covered with condensed moisture. The parts affected are often shaded from the sun, thus giving rise to the supposition that the discoloration is due to a fungoid disease. To guard against such damage the top ventilators should be slightly opened before the sun rises, so that the condensed moisture may be evaporated and the surface of the foliage left dry by the time the full heat of the sun is felt. On cloudy days the same mishap may occur, hence a careful watch should be kept on the ventilation. Discolouring of the grapes may also be caused by handling them with dirty or rough hands, or by allowing them to come in contact with the head. - -

Several cases have also come to my notice of vines being destroyed or seriously damaged by the use of benzine, kerosene, or other oils in combating meal-bug.. If any of these liquids are used they should be applied to the insects only, not to the wood, as they readily soak into the porous bark of the vine and destroy the tissues. The following are other errors often committed by beginners : Burning sulphur in the vinehouse : Sulphur is sometimes burnt on a fire or on hot cinders with a view of killing red spider or other insect pests. The fumes emitted from burning sulphur will, it is true, kill the insects, but they are also deadly to human and vegetable life and so should never be used in a vinery or plant-house. ,' Burying dead animals near vines This idea, handed down from traditional sources, seems to appeal greatly to inexperienced growers. Instead of decomposing. flesh being of benefit to the vines, it will poison the soil, kill the roots, and do serious injury to the whole of the vine, which does not need such rank garbage to feed upon. ' . ’ - . • ; Growing plants in the vinehouse : There is always a risk,. when plants of any other kind, are grown in the same structure as vines, of the former harbouring insects or diseases which may also attack the vines. For this reason they may only be grown in the vinehouse when strict attention is paid to keeping them free from pests. . - . • Feeding vines : Some beginners are not contented unless they are constantly dosing, the roots of their vines with artificial or liquid manures. While it is true that vines profit by a liberal diet when in good health, it by no means follows that they require an excessive amount of feeding. Occasional feedings and topdressings, as previously recommended, are all that is necessary. On no account give manures to sickly vines—it will only make them worse and hasten their decease. Nor should manure be applied to newly planted vines. Growing vegetables in the borders : The borders should be as wide as the rafters are long, and should not be used for growing .vegetables or other plants. Many people do so use them, and then wonder why the vines fail to give satisfaction. Vines require all the food they can obtain from a wide well-kept border.VINEYARD AND CELLAR. Make use of the scarifier to keep down weeds and to work up a fine tilth on the surface, so as to retain the moisture in the soil. Keep a sharp lookout for fungoid diseases, especially when the atmosphere is moist and sultry. In the cellar, keep the vats and barrels well filled up. Watch the wines closely for any signs of fermentation or disease. They are very liable to start fermenting with the increasing heat. In the case of dry wines moving, racking them into sulphured casks will generally prevent further fermentation' and . prevent disease setting in. White wines becoming turbid in the bottles should be emptied into a well-sulphured cask', fined, and racked when perfectly bright. This may require five to fifteen days or more.