ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XVIII, Issue 4, 21 April 1919, Page 241

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

IN order to ensure reply to questions, correspondents must give their name and address, not necessarily for publication, but as a guarantee of good faith. Letters should be addressed to the Editor.

FEED FOR BREEDING-EWES. “Cockatoo,” Enfield —

1 T I* 1 3'T the scarcity of sheep-feed for the coming winter, would oats be a suitable feed for breedmg-ewes, together with, say, an hour on turnips daily ? Would it be necessary to crush the oats ? What would be the quantity necessary per head per day to maintain the ewes in good - condition ? I would be glad of any other information you can supply on the subject.

The Live-stock Division :—

■ Placing the sheep for an hour or so a day on turnips and then feeding with oats would hardly be a suitable dietary for the ewes. With all ruminants it is essential that a good proportion of bulky food be given, as the function of rumination is dependent on this. ; Oats, being a concentrated food and therefore having to be fed in small quantities at a time, do not provide for this function. The most economical way to feed in your case would be to crush the oats and mix them with good chaff for the ewes. The amount of feed given to the ewes must be regulated by the condition they are in. About j- lb. of oats per day should be sufficient for each sheep. In the case of pregnant ewes great care is necessary to ensure that the animals do not get too fat, as many of the troubles occurring at and just prior to lambing are directly due to gross condition.

• - ■ PROVIDING GROUND SHELTER. ‘“Acacia,” Auckland :—

I wish to cut back wattle (black and lopantha) and pinus insignis, so as to produce ground shelter and make the hedges stand a cold wind without stripping. Would you kindly state at what season of the year this should be done, how it should be done, and what size the wattle and pines must be before trimming can profitably be commenced. .

The Horticulture Division :—

i Wattles cannot be regarded as suitable trees for providing permanent ground shelter. The lopantha species (Albizzia lopantha) is at best short-lived, and is by nature a straggling bush. Cutting the ends off growing shoots, leaving some active growth below each cut, will certainly promote a closer growth, but it is, as indicated, only temporary in character. Nor is the black-wattle capable of maintaining permanently a close state of growth. With this tree also the object sought may to some extent be gained by a light shortening of growths from time to time, always leaving growth below the cut, for wattles cannot be relied on to break again if cut to bare wood. The best time to cut would be just at the beginning of a flush of growth, either early in spring or early in autumn. Pinus insignis is a giant tree which strongly resents severe restriction, and whatever may be done it eventually loses the lower limbs unless it is grown in an open position and - allowed to extend its branches. . Very close hedges are sometimes formed by this pine, but they are not permanent. With regard to the size the trees should be before trimming is commenced, there is no reliable data to go on. Probably it does not make much difference so long as it is begun while the trees are young——say, four or. five years old. It would be best not to cut heavily at any time, but to cut straggling branches back occasionally. Any time of the year except winter would be suitable.

EWES WITH CONTAGIOUS STOMATITIS.

S. H. F., Masterton

I have some stud Southdown ewes that have broken out with sores, around the upper and bottom lips. The sores start like warts, and gradually get worse until quite raw and sensitive, and the sheep fall away in condition. The sheep were previously in first-rate condition; they have a good paddock but with a lot of thistles in it. Could you tell me a cure, and if it is a common complaint ?

The Live-stock Division

The trouble affecting your ewes is evidently contagious stomatitis. Treatment consists in cleaning the parts and applying sulphur ointment (i in 8 of vaseline). The ointment should be applied liberally. Probably the thistles are the cause of the abrasions through which. the microbes gain entrance, and thus set up the symptoms you describe. A change of feed should have a beneficial effect. .

RAISING CHESTNUTS

M. K. Forsyth, Stanley Brook

Would you kindly give me information as to how chestnuts are propagated ? Can they be raised from the nut; and, if so, does the nut require any special treatment before planting ? I sent some nuts out from England while I was there. They were planted here over a year ago, and there is no sign of any of them growing.

The Horticulture Division

Chestnuts are raised from the nuts, which are best sown as soon as they are ripe in any ordinarily good soil that is friable and not too wet. Varieties are increased by budding on to stocks raised from nuts. The nuts you sent from England no doubt lost vitality during the . voyage. They would require special packing and to be kept in a cool place. . .

TREATMENT FOR NORTHERN CLAY SOIL.

“ Subscriber,” Otorohanga

The soil, surrounding Waikumete, North Auckland, is a brown-and-white cohesive clay. Please advise me how to bring this soil into a state of fertility It grows paspalum and lotus angustissimus very well.

The Agriculturist

The soil you refer to can be improved in fertility by judicious liming, greenmanuring, and thorough cultivationusing burnt lime at the rate of 15 cwt. to 20 cwt. per acre, worked into the soil during cultural operations, and ploughing under a lotus angustissimus crop occasionally to provide humus. This improvement will be augmented by the moderate manuring of the oats and forage crops (turnips, ryecorn, vetches, peas, &c.) that can be grown on such land. The cultivation required for these crops, and the growing of the leguminous plants mentioned, will be of marked bene it.

TREATMENT FOR SIDE-BONE IN HORSE.

“ Nugget,” Matakohe

■ I have a draught mare which has developed a lump on her front legs, just above the hoofs ; it is partly round from the back to the front on the inside of both feet. She goes a bit lame when she starts off, but it wears off. Would you kindly tell me what to do for it ? .

The Live-stock Division

The lumps you describe will no doubt be side-bones.” There is no cure for this, though many cases are to a certain extent relieved by the application of a blister, followed by rest. After clipping the hair off and around the lumps, apply about J oz. of cantharides ointment (1 in 8 of vaseline). Afterwards turn the animal out for a spell.

CURLING OF LEMON-TREE LEAVES.

N. Smyth, Rotoroa Island :—

Can you tell me the cause of the leaves of lemon-trees curling, also the remedy ?

The Horticulture Division

The most probable cause of lemon-leaves curling is ill-balanced fertilizers. The deficiency is most likely to be in potash and nitrogen, particularly the former. When autumn rains occur apply sulphate of potash, 2 oz. per square yard, spread over the surface soil, covering the presumed root-run, and lightly fork it in. Failing sulphate. of potash wood-ashes will answer, provided they have not been exposed to rain’; give 4 oz. per square yard. • If wood-ashes are not available apply the same quantity of seed gypsum.” When active growth begins give 1 oz. per square yard of nitrate of soda.

CATTLE AND PARASITIC GASTRITIS.

“ Doubtful,” Bay of Plenty.

I have a paddock in which a number of young cattle contracted parasitic gastritis.' I would like to know, if I place cows on the same paddock, whether they would be likely to contract the same complaint.

The Live-stock Division

We would not advise you to place cows on the paddock in which the young cattle contracted parasitic gastritis. While it is a well-known fact that cows seldom, if . ever, are. affected with parasitic gastritis in the same way as young stock—this doubtless being due to a more vigorous constitution —nevertheless the cows act as a host for the parasites, and thus the pasture remains contaminated. If the land is ploughable you would be well advised to turn over the paddock—also liming and draining if necessary—and thus get rid of the parasites. ■

WORMS IN PIGS.

W. Gott, Spreydon : —

I am feeding three Yorkshire sows about four months old in a sty, and noticed that one or more of them has passed some round worms about 6 in. long. Would you please tell me what is best to do ? The sows all look well and are doing nicely.

The Live-stock Division :—■

Santonin is the drug giving best results for worms in pigs. Give each animal 8 grains of the drug, mixed in the feed, on two consecutive mornings, and on the third morning give 8 grains of calomel mixed in the feed. Each animal should be fed from a separate trough, thus making sure that they all get the medicine.

FERTILIZING AN ORCHARD.

“ Orchardist,” Masterton :—

Would you please advise the best manure to use for an apple-orchard which is in its third year of bearing. The ground has been well cultivated ; the soil is rather light and bad with sorrel. Would' a good dressing of lime be any good, or would it be best to use some kind of artificial only ? . . ' .

The Horticulture Division :—

The prevalence of sorrel in your orchard indicates’ that lime is needed. Apply 1 to 2 tons per acre of ground lime as soon as possible. It is quite likely that no actual fertilizer may be required, as lime has considerable powers in this respect. If, however, you consider more is wanted (this to be determined by the condition of the trees) superphosphate and bonedust, 1 lb. of each per tree, should be applied about midwinter, lightly forking it into the soil. ■ <

EFFECT OF MUSTARD AND SALT ON PIGS

K. S. Cox, Putaruru

Could you tell me if mustard will kill a pig; and, if so, what antidote would prove successful if used in time ? Does salt also affect pigs fatally ?

The Live-stock Division

Mustard cannot be regarded as a poison in the true sense of the word. In small doses it acts as a stimulant, aiding digestion ; in large doses it acts as an emetic, and as such is often used with small animals. Pigs are very susceptible to salt, and many cases of a fatal nature occur from the animals being fed on salted food, &c.

WINTER FORAGE CROPS FOR BREEDING-SOWS.

“ Subscriber," Drury

I should like some information on fodder crops suitable for breeding-sows through the winter. The land here has become unsuitable for turnip crops and lucerne. Top soil is not deep, with heavy clay subsoil.

The Agriculturist

Crops suitable for feeding breeding-sows through the winter and for growing on the class of soil described include the following : Partridge field-peas, seeding 3 bushels per acre ; black winter vetches,. 2 bushels per acre; Buda kale, 3 lb. to 4 lb. per acre. The peas and vetches could be sown broadcast, while the kale is best sown in drills 28 in. apart.

PROPAGATING RUBBER-PLANT

‘ Rubber,” Upper Hutt

I have a fine specimen of variegated rubber-plant, about 3 ft. high. Will you kindly inform me how to obtain a second plant from it. It is a single-stem plant.

The Horticulture Division

The top of a Ficus elastica plant may be induced to root by cutting a tongue' on one side of the stem below the leaves. In cutting the tongue commence about 3 in. below the lowest leaf, let the knife enter with a slope, carry the knife upward for about 1 in., finishing about one-third through the stem. The tongued portion of the stem is then covered with a good pad of fresh sphagnum moss, bound securely. The moss must be kept constantly moist. An improved method is to cut a 3 J in. flower-pot of soft clay into equal halves. Enclose the pad of moss in . the pot, which will fit around it; the hole in the bottom of the pot may need enlargement. ‘Bind the two halves of the pot together with fine wire, and support it, if necessary, with a stick thrust into the soil in the pot. When the moss is filled with roots the stem of the plant should be severed below the pot. The new plant may then be potted up.