WORK FOR THE COMING MONTH.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XVIII, Issue 2, 20 February 1919, Page 103

WORK FOR THE COMING MONTH.

THE ORCHARD.

The mid-season crops of apples and pears are now ready for harvesting; For some months past the orchardist has been concerned in the raising of the crop, spraying, thinning, and other matters having been earnestly attended to with the one idea of bringing it to perfection. Following, this comes the problem of marketing, the importance of which cannot be too much stressed, as upon it depends the financial position of the orchardist. In the larger districts growers are fortunate in having established fruit companies to deal with this question. .

The Hawke's Bay companies have been established some time, and are doing really good work. Dunedin and Auckland have also cooperative distributing companies, and with the experience gained last year growers may expect to have their products put up in the most attractive manner and disposed of to very good advantage. A similar company has been formed and is operating in Canterbury this season. ■ The marketing situation in the Nelson District is perhaps more difficult, but one in which there is every prospect of success. The Nelson co-operative company has been fortunate in securing the services of Mr. D. H. Rundle, who has had experience in these problems both in America and Tasmania. Mr. Rundle's services in marketing should be of great value not only to the Nelson District but also to the industry throughout New Zealand. ' . . Local growers will no doubt welcome the appointment of Mr. W. T. Goodwin, Orchard Instructor, Dunedin, to the Motueka end of the Nelson District. It has been .recognized by the Department for some time that one officer could not carry on the work with justice to. himself and the district. The services of Mr. Hyde are still available to the growers on the Nelson side. J. A. Campbell, Assistant Director of the Horticulture Division. •

AUCKLAND. March may be regarded as one of the busiest periods of the year. All hands will be engaged in harvesting and marketing the crops. The most important operations to be performed during the month may be summarized as follows : (l.) Continuation of sprayings on pip-fruits for the control of codlin-moth, leaf-roller, &c., also black-spot, and brown and bitter rots on stone-fruits for brown-rot; on citrus fruits for scale and thrip ; and, in cases where not already carried out, bordeaux, 4-4-40, may be applied for control' of. verrucosis. ' • ■ (2.) Harvesting of fruit as maturity is attained. , . (3.) Maintenance of sufficient cultivation. . ' (4.) Continuation of removal of shoots on tree-stumps of this season’s grafting. Should infection from brown-rot appear on peaches, nectarines, or plums which may be detected from time to time, the fruits should be immediately removed from the trees and destroyed by burning ,or. burying. No rejected' fruit should be allowed to remain about the packing-shed,, as this is very frequently the means of spreading the spores to clean fruit passing through the shed. ' .. In the case of pears, more especially ' younger trees up to seven and eight years, being attacked by the insect pear-leaf-rolling midge {Dasyneura piri) on this season’s growth, growers are advised to remove all .infected parts and destroy them by burning; also-spraying the trees with nicotine sulphate, 1-800 or 1-750, or with kerosene emulsion, 1-15. •

Citrus trees affected with scale or thrip should be sprayed now with red-oil emulsion, 1-40, provided the trees have not commenced young autumn growth, which in many localities this season will be rather irregular. Spraying for the month generally is recommended as follows : — Peach, nectarine, and plum: Commercial lime-sulphur, 1—125, or self-boiled, —as fruits commence to ripen and further as circumstances demand. Apple, pear, and quince : Commercial lime-sulphur (33 0 tests), 1-100, in conjunction with arsenate-of-lead paste, ii lb., or powder, Jib., to 50 gallons water—every twenty-one days. • Lemon and orange : bordeaux, 4-4-40 —if not already applied when blossom petals have fallen from main-crop flowers ; red-oil emulsion, 1-40 —when a minimum of young growth is showing.

—J. W. Collard,

Orchard Instructor, Auckland

HAWKE’S BAY.

Very little can be added to my last month’s notes for the control of orchard pests and diseases. Spraying for codlin-moth, leaf-roller caterpillar, and leech must be continued right through the month of March, as much fruit is often wasted by neglecting to spray late in the season. Keep woolly aphis well under control ; spray a second time if this has not been already done. Further sprayings for the control of fungus diseases will depend largely on the weather. Always anticipate trouble following any wet spell, and thereafter keep a sharp lookout for black-spot development. Spray even if the infection is the size of a pin’s head. Spraying for powdery mildew, plum-rust, and fungus diseases of stone-fruits should be followed up. The compounds and strengths indicated in last month’s notes are recommended for the control of both insect pests and fungus diseases. —G. Esam, Orchard Instructor, Hastings.

NELSON

Cultivation : With the autumn rains and the busy picking-time, oppor unities to cultivate the soil when in proper condition are few and far between. Indeed, where cultivation has .been thorough during summer less cultivation now will allow the young wood and fruit to ripen better. .

Liming : Lime may be applied at this season with great advantage. Applied at the rate of 1 ton to the acre and harrowed in, it becomes assimilated during winter. Stone-fruit trees particularly require this dressing ; a lot of fruit-dropping experienced in spring would be avoided if the application were made. It should be broadcasted over the whole area between the trees.

Cover-crops : With lessened cultivation the natural weeds will grow unless a cover-crop is planted. Should the soil possess plenty of humus and no troublesome weeds the latter will do no harm but, on the contrary, some good, specially on hilly country subject to scouring by winter rains. In other cases a cover-, crop should be grown to feed the trees and smother troublesome weeds. The following cover-crops are grown successfully in Nelson orchards : Red clover, lupins, vetches, peas, white mustard, and oats. The legumes clover, lupins, vetches, and peas—require the land to be in good heart and well provided with lime ; they should be sown without delay : blood-and-bone and superphosphate, about 3 cwt. to the acre, is a suitable manure on land that has been limed. Oats make a good and cheap cover-crop ; they may be sown later than the legumes ; the variety known as Algerian is rust-resistant and very suitable generally for the purpose. White mustard as a cover-crop has the advantage of being cheap and very quick-growing ; under some circumstances it comes in very useful. Spraying : Pip-fruits will require further applications of arsenate of lead to keep them clear of leaf-roller caterpillar. Black-spot fungus sometimes makes its appearance during March ; an application of lime-sulphur . should be made as soon as it is detected. The campaign against woolly aphis should be carried out energetically at this season, which is the most effective period of the year. Kerosene emulsion or Blackleaf 40 make good washes; if the latter is used alone the soap ingredient should not be omitted. After the -apples are picked redoil ■ emulsion, 1-50, is excellent for control. Whatever spray is used, results are chiefly due to the thoroughness of the application. Stone-fruit trees affected with fungus blight of any kind are much improved if sprayed after the fruit is gathered with bordeaux 2-3-40.

Raspberry, black-currant, and strawberry plants require spraying with bordeaux, 3-4-40, as soon as the crop is gathered. The prevalence of leaf-spot makes bordeaux-spraying a necessity. —W. C. Hyde, Orchard Instructor, Nelson.

OTAGO.

The weather during January was about the worst experienced in the memory of the oldest fruitgrowers in the district, consequently orcharding operations have been very much interfered with.

Black-spot is still persisting, especially on apples. Even where the fruit is not affected there is a good deal of infection on the foliage, which, if favourable conditions continue, will be transmitted to the fruit during February and March, and even up to ripening-time, especially on the Cleopatra variety, and to a lesser extent on Delicious, Sturmer, and others.. Mildew is also giving trouble and spreading very rapidly. Continue the applications of lime-sulphur, 1-120 ; Cleopatra will stand 1—100. Combine Blackleaf 40 where woolly aphis is present. Up to the time of writing red mite has not been noticed, no doubt the wet season having kept it in check, but there is still time for the pest to become troublesome. If so, spray with lime-sulphur as for . the previously mentioned diseases or, as an alternative, atomic sulphur, 10 lb. to 12 lb. to 100 gallons.

Brown-rot so far has not made its appearance, but may do so in later varieties of peaches. Rust is becoming prevalent. Use lime-sulphur, 1-130, on peaches, plums, and nectarines, and repeat the treatment in later varieties, as the fruit is liable to be small, especially the Muir peach, where rust gets a good footing. The treatment for brown-rot is the same as for rust. Self-boiled lime-sulphur, 8-8-50, has given good results. Atomic sulphur, 10 lb. to 12 lb. to 100 gallons, is also recommended as a remedy. There is evidence of neglect on the part of some growers in regard to pear and cherry slug. Development of fruit-buds and growth are retarded if the trees are allowed to become defoliated. Spray with arsenate-of-lead powder, J lb. to 50, or paste, i| lb. to 50, gallons. Codlin-moth still requires attention, late apples being liable to infection. Early apples and pears are showing signs of grub, and several small lines on the market have. been condemned and destroyed. Pick and destroy affected fruit at the orchard. Spray with arsenate as previously recommended.

Summer pruning can be carried out this month on all fruits. Get rid of the heavy growth inside the apricot and peach trees where it is excessive, so as to give the spurs and twigs a better chance to ripen up. Budding can still be done. Choose well-ripened buds for this work, and in the case of apple-buds be sure they are free from woolly aphis. A word about marketing : Keep the fruit picked up to time, though not too green. Avoid putting in stone-fruits overripe ; grade to the standards set forth, and pack to the best advantage either in trays or cases according to quality, and discard diseased fruit. Instruction in the best packing methods is obtainable

on application. —J. H. Thorp, Orchard Instructor, Dunedin.

POULTRY-KEEPING.

By F. C. BROWN, Chief Poultry Instructor. CULLING . THE HENS. It should be needless to . remind readers that March is the best month to detect and cull out the hens not worth keeping for another year. Even in normal-times when food was cheap heavy culling, was necessary if a good profit was to be made from poultry. At the present price of food, however, it is imperative that no hen be retained on the place unless she iskshowing a profit, or is likely to do so in the near future.

Some poultry-keepers prefer not to market their cull hens until after they have moulted, as with their new plumage and a better appearance they command a higher price. This is a short-sighted policy. True, a few pence more per head may . be obtained for the birds, but the extra food eaten during the moulting-period. will probably cost double the increased market value received. There is another —the culls are occupying space which could be given with advantage to the producing stock. ' .

In the work of culling a good guide to distinguish the money-makers from the drones is to observe the time of moulting. It will usually be found .that the hens which moult first are the poor layers and the weakest-constitutioned birds in the flock. Therefore these should be discarded and the late moulters kept for laying and breeding purposes. When culling on this principle individual conditions should always be kept in mind, especially in regard to the time the birds were hatched out, for it is obvious that the very early hatched bird will moult in advance of one brought out on the late side.

There are other signs indicating that a hen is going to take a long period of rest, such as loss of bloom and shrinkage of the comb, also a shrinkage of the abdominal region until the breast-bone comes into proximity with the pelvic bones. The latter also contract until the width between them will not admit more than one finger. In the case of yellow-legged ■ breeds, such as Leghorns, Rocks, &c., the paleness or otherwise of the shanks and beak at this time of the year affords a good guide for detecting the heavy layers from the drones. With the heavy layer both the shanks and beak will have a well-bleached—in fact, white—appearance, while those of the drones will be a rich yellow. It must be remembered that this only applies towards the end of a laying season, as even with the best layers in the flock the shanks and beak will regain a rich yellow colour after they have gone through the moulting process. Especially does this apply where the birds are running on damp land or well-grassed runs. Of course, during the pullet stage all birds of the breeds mentioned should have yellow shanks, as any other colour indicates that they are not standard bred.

In culling a flock the wise poultryman does not let sentiment exist. He always keeps in mind the food —the most serious factor in. the business. He not only' culls all hens that have passed their second season of production (except, of course, a noted breeder), but he also culls hard the first-season layers. It should never be forgotten that after the first laying season a hen's value as a layer lessens, and that after the second year she may be fruitful but will seldom pay to keep. Many hens die in debt to their owners because they have been kept beyond their time of usefulness, Whereas if they had been culled at the right time they would have shown a good margin of profit over their keep. ■' ' ■

THE BREEDING COCKERELS.

On the majority of plants a rough selection will already have been made from the early-hatched cockerels, with a view to maintaining on the plant the best specimens for future breeding purposes. This is how it should be, for it is seldom that a late-hatched bird proves to be a desirable sire. In making the final selection'of the birds, previously set apart the greatest care should be experienced to choose only those that

give evidence of developing a good-sized frame combined with constitutional vigour. The chief signs indicating good health and vigour are a bold, bright, clear eye, tight feathering, a deep body, a well-developed crop, short strong shanks (the bone to be flat), and the legs set wide apart. The ideal breeding male should be active-in his habits and carry himself in a proud manner. No male should be selected for the breeding-pen that is lacking in these important points. , Each bird should be carefully examined for breed defects, as these are apt to be reproduced in the progeny, . and probably in an exaggerated form. Never breed from a cockerel that has matured at a very young age. These are usually pleasing to the eye when young, .having a well-developed comb, well-furnished plumage, and a sprightly appearance. Such birds seldom or never grow to a desired size, and are more like bantams than the breed they represent. Obviously they will, produce stock of poor quality. As a rule, the cockerel that makes the best sire is somewhat ungainly in appearance during the growing-stage, and does not catch the eye so readily as his more precocious brothers.

A common mistake made, even by those who realize the importance of breeding only from robust stock, is that after choosing the best cockerels they later are placed in too-confined quarters, such as a small run, coop, &c. This means that they become overforced, like hothouse plants, which not only weakens the constitution but brings on leg-weak-ness, abnormal development, and falling-over of the comb, as well as other serious troubles. ■ ' -

The careful breeder who is intent on raising the productive capacity of his flock pays special care to the selection and management of the cockerels intended as future stock birds. He . is guided by the sound principles, upon which the successful breeding of all classes of stock rest. The A B C of this is that “ like produces like,” and that no trouble is too great to have the right class of stock in the breeding-pen. It is advisable in poultry-keeping to neglect no detail in regard to exercise, cleanliness, proper feeding, and general management, but with the cockerel intended for next season’s breeding-pen this attention.to detail is imperative.

THE APIARY.

By G. V. WESTBROOKE, Apiary Instructor. ■ Beekeepers should be optimistic, always, expecting a good crop. It is better to have a good supply of spare supers and combs, even if not required, than to experience a shortage during a good flow of honey. If, however, the beekeeper should find the bees filling up the supers and brood-nest and have no spare combs, he must keep the extractor going continuously to cope with the supply, replacing the wet empty combs on the hives at night in order to avoid starting the bees robbing. In districts where there is a variety of flora from which honey is obtained it is advisable to keep separate the different extractings,marking the tins accordingly.. This is necessary where two or more colours or grades of honey are obtained.

REMOVING HONEY FROM THE HIVE.

Beginners should be careful to remove only well-ripened honey for extracting. The bees are the best judges of this; they seal the cells of ripe honey only. The beekeeper should therefore see that not less than three-quarters of the comb is capped over before attempting to extract. Some beekeepers try to save the bees the trouble of capping over the cells by extracting the honey while “ green." . This practice is not recommended, and can only be carried out . by experienced beekeepers, and then only in hot, dry climates.

If the atmosphere is inclined to be damp, honey will quickly take up moisture. Under such conditions it is advisable to tin it off as soon as it is strained. Honey being more easily extracted when warm, it is better to leave it on the hive until one is ready to extract. In order to handle. it as expeditiously as possible it is advisable to have two persons doing the work. If done systematically they can move more honey in much less than half the time one person would take. One person takes the barrow on which is one or more empty supers, and manipulates the smoker and bee-brush. The other has the hivetool, and removes the combs one by one, giving each a vigorous shake in front of the hive to dislodge the adhering bees. He then hands the comb to the one in charge of the barrow, who brushes off the remaining bees and places it in the super. When sufficient has been obtained to keep the extractor going for several hours both return to the honeyhouse to commence extracting.

Where only one person is available to remove the honey he should use a cloth to cover over the combs on the barrow. It may be damped with water containing a weak solution of carbolic acid ; this will assist in keeping away robber-bees. Where the supers contain well-spaced frames of fully capped combs an easy method of removing the honey is to pour a few drops of crude carbolic on the fuel in the smoker, taking the precaution of seeing that it is first well alight. The carbolic fumes mingled with the smoke will quickly drive down all the bees from the top super. It can then be removed bodily from the hive and placed on the barrow. This method is recommended where one person is doing the work.

TESTING HONEY FOR RIPENESS.

Before tinning off the honey make certain it is ripe. There should not be much difficulty about this where combs were well sealed over. The only certain way of ascertaining if the honey is ripe is to test it with a hydrometer. If on testing with a Twaddles No. 4 hydrometer the instrument does not sink below 84 it indicates a well-ripened honey. This is equal to a specific gravity of 1-42, the test being made at a temperature of 6o° F. As the temperature of honey in the summer rarely sinks so low, the test may be taken at 70° or 80° by adding 1 point to the hydrometer-reading for each io° of heat over 6o°. Thus, if the hydrometer sinks to 82 at a temperature of 8o°, it would register 83 if taken at 70°, and 84 if taken at 6o°. To arrive at the specific gravity multiply the hydrometer-reading by 5 ; thus 84 x 5 = 420 ; add 1 for the gravity of water and it will equal 1-420. This method is only reliable up to a temperature of 90°.

TESTING THICK HONEY.

■ Sometimes honey is so dense that the hydrometer will not sink. When such is the case take equal parts by volume (not weight) of honey and water, mix thoroughly, test with a No. 2 Twaddles hydrometer, and then multiply the result by 2. This will give the same result as if taken with a No. 4 instrument by the direct method. Thus, if the No. 2 instrument sinks into the honey and water to 42, this multiplied by 2 = 84. Perhaps the quickest and simplest method to test thick honey is to have a deep glass or beaker on which is a mark 1 to contain about 4 oz. of water. Fill up to. the mark with water, then pour it into another vessel; now fill up to the mark with liquid honey, add the water previously measured, and mix thoroughly ; then place in it the No. 2 hydrometer, note the number to which it sinks, and multiply by To ; place the decimal point before the result, and add 1. Thus, if it registers 43, 43 x 10 = 430 ; place the decimal point before the 430 = -430 ; to this add 1, which is the specific gravity of water, the result being 1-430. .

EXPORT CASES AND TINS.

Honey is worthy of being put up in good containers, therefore new tins should be procured. As these are now available, do not be content with benzine-tins. See that tins are free from nail-holes or faulty soldering. Weigh the cases and tins, and note same in order to arrive at the net weight of the honey. ' Fill the tins to hold as near 60 lb. as possible. Do not fill them to the top ; honey coming in contact with the raw edge of the iron at the inlet is liable to set up a chemical action, leaving a black precipitate. As the export regulations prohibit more than 120 lb. net in a case, do not put more than 60 lb. in each tin. Store the honey in a dry place until it has granulated hard ; do not send it to the grading-store while liquid or soft.

VITICULTURE.

By S. F. ANDERSON, Vine and Wine Instructor. THE COMING VINTAGE. The weather up to the present has not been such that we can look forward to an early ripening of the grapes. A late ripening means generally a lower percentage of natural sugar in the fruit.' There is, however, still a chance of getting a warm autumn that may to some extent make up for the unusual want of summer heat experienced. It is well, therefore, to be prepared for making provision to assist as far as possible the ripening of the fruit. This can be done by keeping the soil of the vineyard perfectly free of weeds, thus obtaining all the heat possible radiated from a dry soil. Weeds prevent this; so also do too many leaves below the fruit. When the fruit .has attained its full size it will assist its ripening to take off a limited amount of the lower foliagethat is. the leaves below the fruit. This permits a

greater circulation of air and more light. It also assists a more rapid drying of the bunches after rain.

As the time of the vintage draws near the vigneron will test the grapes with the saccharometer. If the sugar-content is below 20 per cent, the grapes should be left longer on the vine if possible. They can probably be left with advantage till the end of March. After that time they do not increase in sugar-content unless in exceptional seasons. A further advantage can be gained by drying the grapes before crushing. With proper accommodation for spreading out the fruit thinly a good deal of moisture can be driven off. A certain amount of the acid is converted into sugar by this process. The grapes must not be allowed to mould, however. A dry westerly or north-westerly wind would greatly assist drying the grapes, but with a close, damp atmosphere there would be no advantage gained by spreading them out. Assuming that the ripening of the grapes is not up to that of the average season, greater care is required to immediately remove all green, rotten, or otherwise spoiled grapes. Attention to these details may add a few per cent, to the sugar in the grapes, and they will certainly improve the keeping-qualities and general excellence of the wine.

Cleanliness is as important in winemaking as in dairying. The presshouse teems with harmful bacteria at this time of year. If the weather is warm the greater the danger. Everything is sticky and provides a favourable condition for the spread of the acetic and other harmful germs. Therefore all utensils should be kept strictly clean. Do not allow the grape-juice. to come in contact with anything iron, such as iron buckets or shovels. Certain acids attack iron very readily, forming poisonous salts and giving white wines an inky appearance. Only wooden tubs and buckets should be used.

THE GARDEN.

By W. H. TAYLOR, Horticulturist. ’ VEGETABLE-CULTURE. There is no planting to be done at the present time, with the exception of lettuce and . silver-beet. The latter is usually established by sowing, but transplanting is quite successful. Sowing during the next four weeks will be confined to spinach, turnips, lettuce, and radish. Turnips being for winter supply, a good breadth should be sown about the middle of March. A white variety is best for first use ; the yellowfleshed varieties stand longer. Yellow-fleshed turnips are essentially winter varieties. It is only during winter that their flavour is good, and at that time they surpass the white-fleshed varieties in this respect. This is particularly the case after winter is well advanced, when the white varieties deteriorate by long standing. It is therefore advisable to sow two kinds, the white being lightly thinned and used first, the yellow to be thinned more severely to allow for development, as they will not be thinned by early pulling like the white variety. ■

Spinach should be sown at once if this has not been already, done. Thin the plants as soon as they can be handled, to about 8 in. apart. Remember that this crop will stand through winter, and that single leaves are pulled for use, not the whole plant; therefore the better each plant grows the larger the leaves will be, and .the more succulent and the greater the total amount of produce. Market-gardeners act differently ; as it would be very difficult to tie the leaves in bunches they pull the whole plant; consequently they do not thin much; but every one knows that shop spinach is but poor stuff at the best. The soil should be frequently stirred between all' growing crops, not only to suppress weed-growth but to keep the surface loose. A clean condition and loose surface has a very beneficial effect on plant-growth.

Cabbages, broccoli, and similar crops are greatly benefited by light dressings of nitrate of soda. Half an ounce per square yard is sufficient, repeating the dressing five or six weeks after, the two dressings being sufficient for any crop. As evidence of'the effect of nitrate of soda it may be of interest to mention a case that recently came under notice. A grower of lettuce asked to be told of a lettuce that would not grow very large but would make a solid heart. It appeared that former ■crops had been watered every other day with nitrate of soda, the result being very large plants without hearts. This case affords evidence of the potency of the salt in forcing growth and the evil resulting from its excessive use. It has the same effect on cabbages. A proper amounts promotes healthy growth, an overdose makes the plants too leafy. Leeks that have commenced to grow after transplanting, and ■celery and lettuce, are also greatly benefited by light dressings of nitrate of soda. Sulphate of ammonia is another nitrogenous fertilizer, but is much slower in action than nitrate of soda.

Onions are ripening off, and should be lifted when the tops are dead ■or nearly so. When the bulbs are pulled they should be laid on their side, so that the root ends, are not in contact with the soil. If they are, •and rain should fall before the bulbs are dry enough to be carried off, new roots would soon push out and the bulbs be ruined for keeping. When the bulbs are reasonably dry' they should be relieved of the tops and loose skins, and placed in a dry airy shed. Keep them in a thin layer till thoroughly dry, when they may be more conveniently placed in larger heaps. Where the quantity is small they are best kept for home use by stringing them and hanging them up in a dry shed. This may be done at first carrying if desired. Garlic and shallots should be thoroughly dried in an airy shed ; they may then be kept in bags or in any convenient place that is dry.

Winter rhubarb will benefit by a good mulch of manure. It will keep the soil moist until autumn rains fall, which will wash the nutrient ■properties of the manure into the soil. Failing manure, give blood-and-bone, about 4 oz. per square yard, with a fourth that amount of ■sulphate of potash ; or dress liberally with dry wood-ashes in lieu of the potash.

Summer rhubarb should be allowed to grow as long as it will without ■pulling. The purpose of growth at the present time is to form crowns for next season. If any of the stalks are pulled the spring crop, which is the most valuable, will be wanting, cropping being delayed till new ■crowns are formed.

Pumpkins and marrows that are to be kept for winter use should not be left to get too ripe. When the rind is hard enough to, make it difficult to pierce with a thumb-nail the gourd is ripe enough do keep, and should be at once taken from the plant. They may be kept under trees where heavy rain and frost cannot reach them, but better in a shed. -

Herbs such as thyme, savoury, and marjoram that run to flower every summer should be cut over to encourage new growth. The tops so cut may be dried for winter, use by tying in bundles and hanging them in a dry room or shed. It is wise to pass the string by which the bundles are suspended through a sheet of paper, which should be wide enough to form a cover to the bundle : this will catch falling dust and keep the herbs clean. The best time to cut herbs for this purpose is when most of the flowers have opened, but not those on the tops of the shoots. Mint and sage can be kept in the same way. Sage is not of much consequence for drying, there being always green shoots in the garden. Mint, however, dies down in winter, and is very useful for flavouring during that season. Cut the stems down to the ground and hang up in bundles as with other herbs, or dry more thoroughly on the plate-rack of a stove. The leaves may then be rubbed to a powder and kept in bottles.

GREEN-MANURING.

Any ground that is cleared of crops and is not immediately required for another should be sown down to provide a green crop for turning under. It is well known that humus is necessary to maintain fertility in soil. Fertilizers are of very little value unless there is a fair amount of humus in the soil. White lupins, cow-peas, partridge-peas, horsebeans, and white mustard are useful green-manuring plants. Mustard is the least valuable of those mentioned, but has the advantage of growing to a useful size in a shorter time than the others, and also succeeds under colder conditions, so that in some circumstances it is the best of the series. Whatever is grown, it should be turned in before the plant becomes dry or woody, so that it may quickly decay and the soil become ■consolidated before being required for planting or sowing.

SMALL FRUITS.

Strawberries. — Where autumn planting is to be done the ground should be prepared at once. The preparation of the soil and fertilizing is fully described in the Department's Bulletin No. 79. Strawberries should not be grown more than two or three years on the same ground. They take something from the soil that fertilizers seem unable to make up for without a period of fallowing or a term under other crops. Runners on old beds should be checked. If plants are required for new plantings, not more than two should be kept on each runner ; beyond that number they are weak and do not make good fruiting-plants the first season. If new plants are not wanted the' runners should be suppressed altogether, as they weaken the parent plant. Those to be saved should be separated from the parent plant by severing the runner as soon as the plants have got a good root-hold.

The Ettersburgh strawberry : This variety has come a good deal under notice during the past two years, and much conflicting evidence has been forthcoming. From personal observations I conclude that it

is a failure on light soils in the North, making a lot of runners but bearing no fruit. At the south end of the North Island and in the South Island it succeeds admirably. The behaviour of the few plants I have grown in the neighbourhood of Wellington convinces me that it is an excellent variety, particularly for home use. The first fruits ripen two or three weeks later . than most varieties, but. it continues to bear all through the summer season—until, in fact, the weather becomes too cold to ripen the fruit. The plant is a strong grower, and soon makes a large plant, with fruit in proportion. The fruit averages small, but the numbers make up for size, and the flavour is above the average. Raspberries. — Keep the soil in the alleyways well cultivated, not only for the benefit this alone is, but to keep suckers and weeds under. The old fruiting-canes should be cut out as soon as the crop is over. Clearing them away allows more air-space for the growing . canes and improves the next crop. Gooseberries that have not been sprayed should be done'at once to keep leaf-spot in check. Bordeaux, 4-4-40, is the best spray. ' < -■ Currants. If the young side-growths of red currants have not been checked cut them back to 6 in. Black currants should not be pruned till winter. -