THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XVIII, Issue 1, 20 January 1919, Page 52

THE GARDEN.

By

W. H. TAYLOR,

Horticulturist.

VEGETABLE-CULTURE.

The planting of cabbages, cauliflowers, broccoli, brussels sprouts, r nd various kales should in most places be already done. In the warmer parts of the North Island later planting is successful; in the coldest districts all such plants should be out during January ; while in the middle districts the work should be finished by the middle of February. Any put out later cannot be depended on to attain to serviceable size for winter use.

French beans may be sown up to the middle of February. Swede turnips should'now be sown for winter use. Thin to about 8 in. apart. White turnips should be sown as required, still in small, quantity. Silver-beet may be sown now for winter use ; also spinach for the same purpose should be sown about the middle of February. Silver-beet should be thinned to 10 in. or 12 in. apart, or it may be transplanted if convenient. Spinach for winter use should be thinned to about 8 in.

apart, taking care that the plants stand singly. Where supplies are insufficient or when young roots are preferred to old ones, red beet of a turnip-rooted variety may be sown, also turnip-rooted parsnip, and a stump-rooted carrot such as Nantes. Development will in no case be great, but these catch-crops often prove to be very useful.

Onion-beds should be kept free of weeds and the surface soil loose. No further attempt should be made to force growth, either by the use of artificial manure or by liquid manure, as such treatment increases the danger from mildew and also mars the keeping-quality of the bulbs. Bending the tops to assist ripening should not be resorted to except in extreme cases. In our climate the tops usually wither and fall naturally, and where this happens it is a sign of well-ripened bulbs and is very desirable. Bending the tops should never be done until 'it can. be seen that they will not fall naturally. The latter state may be caused by wet weather, particularly if the soil is overrich. The giant kinds are those most affected in this way ; it seldom happens to the medium-sized keeping varieties. If bending the tops is necessary it should be done carefully ; the stem must not be broken, for if it is the plant will at once send up new growth through the broken part and the bulb be ruined. A stem should be taken between the thumb and fingers, bruising and bending over at the same time, so that it will lie down but remain intact.

Celery-planting should be finished. This vegetable may be put in much later in northern districts, but if planted now it will make larger heads. Planting later is therefore more a matter of convenience than a necessary practice. Where rust threatens the plant should be frequently sprayed with bordeaux mixture.

Planting of leeks should be completed within the coming month. Details of the method of planting were given in the December Journal.

Pumpkins, marrows, cucumbers, water-melons, pie -melons, and rock-melons may be left to grow in their own way —as they frequently are left in large cultivations. . This, however, is merely a gamble ; best results- cannot be expected from such methods ; if fruits of anything like even size are to be secured the growths on each plant must be controlled. The habit of growth is the same in all the gourd family, differing only in strength. In all cases a limited number of strong runners are sent out in the first place. These may be regarded as the framework of the plants. From these lateral or side shoots proceed. These are the fruit-bearers; although the main arms will bear fruit it is not profitable to allow this in a general way. When the main arms have made a few feet of growth their points should be cut off. This will encourage the growth of laterals, which will soon show fruit. After this the cultivator should decide on what he wishes to obtain—either a few large fruits or a number of smaller ones —and proceed accordingly. If hundredweight pumpkins-are desired a plant can only grow one or two of them, and all others must be suppressed and the vines be kept pinched. If quantities of smaller specimens are the object more laterals are allowed to fruit, and pruning will be to stop each lateral a leaf or two beyond the fruit and to thin out or stop waste growth. Marrows and pumpkins produce fruit until stopped by cold weather therefore in their case late growths may be allowed to run unchecked. Melons will not ripen late, and as this fruit is, of course, useless unless ripe, the

plant-growth should be checked for the benefit of the main crop, which is .the only one that will ripen. • . ' . -

Insect Pests.

The larvae of the diamond-backed moth, which is the greatest pest of the cabbage tribe, is unlikely to be present in devastating numbers -this season, wet weather and cool conditions so far having restricted — in some districts quite prevented — and breeding. When the infection is not bad I have found hellebore powder the best thing to use, it being easily applied, requiring no preparation. The grubs do most damage by eating the tiny leaves forming in the centre of the plants, particularly cauliflowers and broccoli. A little of the powder dusted on these centre leaves will save them from injury ; no notice need be taken of the larger leaves, but fertilizing with nitrate of soda to assist growth should not be neglected. In the warmer districts celery and also carrots and parsnips are liable to be infested by small green lice. ‘ If these are left in possession the foliage turns yellow and growth ceases ; soon the foliage withers away and the plants die. Spraying with Vistolene or XL All fluid kills the insect at once.' The spray should be fine or it will not cling "to the foliage, and, further, a coarse spray is very wasteful. The grey aphis that attacks the cabbage tribe in dry weather can be controlled in the same way. Brussels sprouts are liable to become badly infested with these insects after the sprouts are formed. In this case I prefer to treat them with boiling water applied forcibly with a garden syringe, and I have had complete success with this plan. The aphis in this case has usually appeared towards the end of summer when days are shortening and becoming cooler but when the soil is very dry. I have then always found one syringing sufficient, as rain is usually not long coming, the plants get more moisture, and the lower temperature prevents a reappearance of the pest. .

Fertilizers.

Fertilizers, with the exception of nitrate of soda, should preferably be applied before planting. Some-authorities advise the general use of basic slag for vegetables ; ■ it has the advantage of being non-acid, therefore does not encourage club-root disease. Four ounces per square yard is a suitable amount of slag. It may not be wise, however, to rely on the continued use of only one fertilizer. Blood-and-bone is useful for most crops, so also is superphosphate. Where the soil has been kept in good heart by a proper use of fertilizers, by rotation of crops, and by turning in green crops for humus, large quantities of fertilizers are not required. In such circumstances superphosphate, I oz., and bone-meal or blood-and-bone, i oz., each per square yard, is sufficient. This equals about 2 lb. per square rod, or 300 lb. per acre of each, and 600 lb. per acre in all. Nitrate of soda is of great value in vegetable-culture. All crops are benefited by light applications of this salt, but what may be termed green crops, as distinguished from root crops, are most benefited. The dressing should be light; heavy dressings are likely to induce a too luxuriant soft growth. Two dressings each of | oz. per square yard, equal to 150 lb. per acre, are better than one heavier dressing. The first dressing : should be applied soon after the plants begin to grow after being transplanted, the second five or six weeks later.