ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XV, Issue 4, 20 October 1917, Page 237

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

IN every instance a question to which an answer is desired in the Journal must be accompanied by the full name and the postal address of the inquirer, not necessarily for publication, but as a guarantee of good faith. Letters should be addressed to the Editor.

ORCHARDS UNDER SOD.

“Orchardist,” Nelson

Is there any similarity between the Kentucky blue-grass which American orchardists sow in their orchards and the couch-grass as we know it here ? . I notice that the couch if left alone develops a rising mat with loose ground underneath with fewer roots. Would the couch-giass be detrimental to an orchard if manured annually ? z ' •

The Horticulture Division :

“ Kentucky blue-grass ” is Poa pratensis, usually known as “ couch.” - It is impossible without seeing specimens to say whether or not the grass you refer to as “ couch ”is this. American experience is that there is a great loss of fruit in orchards under sod, and manuring does not alter that result. It is stated by an American authority that in. cases where orchardists appear to be satisfied with the results from trees under sod is because they have kept no check area to judge it by. Trees in sodded orchards show great diminution in growth as compared with trees on similar areas under tillage, and much dead wood. Grass hasj?a toxic effect on the roots.

WINTER BREAKING-IN CROP.

“ Bracken,” Hokianga

We intend ploughing about 20 acres of heavy fern country this month (September) and leaving it for the summer. - It is heavy clay soil and was previously bush country which fire destroyed. What would be the best crop to sow in the early autumn that would give winter feed and then do to plough under —say, in November, 1918 previous to sowing swedes ? What would be the best manure to use for first crop ? We know lime is needed, but it is almost out of.the question, as freight would cost us nearly £2 per ton. ;

The Fields Division :-

For winter feed on an autumn sowing your choice is limited practically to the cereals. Either Italian or Western Wolths rye-grass would be best from the single point of view of providing winter feed, but when the short duration of the grazing and the improvement of the land are considered they must be left out. The following sowing is suggested : f bushel ryecorn, f bushel Algerian oats, and i bushel Scotch tares, per acre. The Scotch tares will not provide much winter feed, but would come away in spring and provide bulk for turning under. There is another difficulty here, however. Bulky green stuff turned under in November in a heavy clay soil would decompose slowly, and sowing of swedes would. have to be done shortly afterwards. Under these circumstances the swedes would be apt to suffer from lack of moisture in the early.stages, partly because the previous mixed crop would have dried up the ground and partly because this when turned down would impede capillarity. For this reason bad results frequently follow with crops sown too soon after green-manuring. We should therefore prefer to graze the previous crop right to the finish before ploughing for swedes, and with this in view would omit tares and increase the oats and ryecorn to i bushel each. Basic superphosphate is the most suitable manure under the circumstances.'

REARING MOTHERLESS LAMBS.

J. Sandford, Ouruhia: —

Kindly let me have directions for rearing motherless lambs.

The Live-stock Division :

One-third water and two-thirds cows' milk should be given to the lamb to start with. Afterwards the percentage of milk can be increased. It is also beneficial to add. a little barley-water occasionally. The liquid should, be. given at about the temperature of the body. The secret in rearing young lambs is to keep them warm, and give them , small quantities of food at a time (about half a teacupful) and often —every two hours to start with. All utensils, . before using, should be thoroughly washed, then scalded. ' '■■’l"‘ '

COAL-ASHES FOR THE GARDEN.

“ Ash,” Methven :

Kindly advise me whether the ashes of a lignite, such as Homebush or 'Mount Somers coal, are of any value as a garden manure, either by themselves or mixed with fowl-manure. If the ashes are of no value, are they harmful ?

The Horticulture Division :

Coal-ashes have no manurial value, but they are not injurious except in certain circumstances. Coal-ashes have been largely employed to ameliorate clay soils, and have had beneficial effect in vegetable-gardens where the soil was largely composed of tenacious clay. On light soil the ashes would have an opposite effect. Coal-ashes should not be applied to soil in which potatoes are grown, as they cause scab. Fowl-manure would not be improved by an admixture of coal-ashes ; it would be better to dry the manure separately. ■

FORAGE CROPS FOR COWS.

“ Inquirer/’ Tuakau :

Please advise as to the best crops to grow for feeding cows during the summer, commencing about Christmas-time.

The Fields Division :

For end of December and beginning of January feeding sow from the middle to the end of October 2 bushels Algerian oats and 1 bushel Scotch or Golden tares per acre. The yield of green forage from tares is greatly reduced by grazing. The crop should not be grazed off more than once, and it should be cut and fed out when required. To follow on, maize should be most suitable in your district. If your soil is good grow one of the tall heavy-yielding varieties, such as Hickory King. For less favourable conditions ordinary Horse-tooth or Ninety-day would be more suitable. Use fto 1 bushel per acre, and sow at, say, three intervals of three weeks, commencing in the middle of October. From 2 cwt. to 3 cwt. of basic superphosphate per acre should be given to each crop. Under conditions adapted to its growth lucerne is without doubt the best single summer forage, and you should set about establishing an area for future requirements.

WOODLICE.

“ Orchardist,” Lower Hutt: —

Recently while weeding round some apple-trees I found woodlice at the roots. Do these insects do the trees any harm; and, if so, what is the remedy ?

The Horticulture Division:—

Woodlice, only become a menace to vegetation when in considerable numbers. They eat green leaves and the tender bark of both stems and roofs of plants. The remedy for woodlice is good and frequent cultivation ; they do not like being disturbed. Vaporite will kill them in places cultivation does not reach. Fowls eat them with avidity, and speedily clear ground of them. •

PECAN-NUTS

J. S. Cotterell, Manawaru, Auckland :■ —

Information is desired as to growing. Pecan-nuts. Is this climate suitable for them ?

The Horticulture Division :

The Pecan-nut tree (Cary a olivaeformis) is one of the hickories. The tree thrives well in this country. Specimens are known that are upwards of twenty years old and more than 25 ft. high. ' So far as we know, however, no nuts have yet been produced. The fact is the tree is variable; some bear well, some do not. Selection would be necessary,, and apparently this, has not been done even in America, where the English walnut is regarded as a better commercial proposition. The trees are grown from the nuts, which 'should be sown as soon after they are ripe as is possible. ■'

CARE OF SHEEP ON GREEN FEED.

J. F. Nicklans, Jun., Upper Fendalton: —

Would you kindly let me know the best drench or treatment for sheep when blown on green feed. We always suffer badly when feeding off crops, or any green stuff. The trouble is just commencing again now (September).

Live-stock Division :

Prevention is always better than cure, and in this case it -is specially applicable. It is well known that where intense cultivation with its accompanying manurial preparation is carried on great care should be taken not to keep animals upon green feed for too long a time, otherwise indigestion will surely follow, as evidenced by scouring or blown animals, and even death. In cases of indigestion the best drench for a sheep would be 2 oz. of Epsom salts dissolved in a pint of water with the addition of a dessert-spoonful of ground ginger.

WIREWORMS IN THE VEGETABLE-GARDEN.

“ Wireworm,” Pohuenui :

Kindly advise as to the best method of getting rid of wireworm in a vegetable-garden.' The soil is a rich loam, and has been at different times well manured with sheep-manure. The wireworms mostly eat the vegetable-seeds. as soon as they germinate.

The Horticulture Division :

The best way to rid soil of wireworms is frequent and thorough cultivation, so as to enable birdswhich are particularly fond of themto pick them up. Salt applied at the rate of 5 cwt. or 6 cwt. per acre when the land is in fallow will kill wireworms, but it could not be applied in effective quantity while crops are growing. Wireworms are the larvae of click-beetles, which abound in grass; therefore keep the ground free of such growths. Peas may be protected by strewing soot freely on them before covering them with soil, and lesser quantities of soot strewn on other seeds should have protective power. Never dig in cabbage-stumps or similar vegetable debris, as they form very congenial harbour for wireworms.

PIG-FEED.

Mr. James Ritchie, Blyth, Nightcaps:—

Kindly state which, beans or potatoes, is the cheaper food for pigs, taking the foods at £4 per ton each.

The Live-stock Division :

The difference is about four to one in favour of beans. Bean-meal added to boiled potatoes makes excellent pig-feed.

MILKING-SHED SYSTEMS.

“ Settler/’ South Westland :

What is your opinion of the “ race-bail ” system for milking-sheds as compared with the “ walk-through ” ?

The Dairy Division :

At one time the race type of building was fairly popular with a number of the settlers, but very few of these buildings are now being erected, as the runthrough design seems to give more satisfaction. A copy of the Department’s standard plans for both types of shed has been forwarded to you. . ■ •