THE FARM GARDEN.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XIII, Issue 4, 20 October 1916, Page 329

THE FARM GARDEN.

W. H. TAYLOR,

Arataki Horticultural Station.

VEGETABLE-CULTURE.

Reverting to the subject of the growing of leeks, touched upon in last month's notes, I believe no vegetable crop is more profitable in the home garden, and if modern methods were adopted this would be recognized. It is quite wrong to suppose that wellblanched leeks can only be produced in trenches. The writer, when at the Weraroa Experimental Farm, produced leeks weighing 2 lb. each, having about io in. of blanched stem. These were grown on the flat in the way now described. Whatever method of growing is adopted, the seed should always be sown in a drill for transplanting. It is quite essential that the plants be transplanted if grown on the flat, and if grown in trenches any c other way would be to court failure and give a large amount of avoidable labour. The seed, then, is to be sown fairly thickly in a drill. If the seed is sown now the plants will be ready for putting out by the beginning of January, quite early enough to get the greatest value out of the crop. The plants growing close together in the drill draw up rather, and that is what is wanted. When they are planted they should be -about 12 in. high. - Choose a plot of good soil for growing them ; if this is well manured with stable manure so much the better, but it is not essential, provided the - soil be naturally good, as leeks are gross feeders. The soil being well broken up to a good depth, mark the plot out in lines 18 in. apart. Next: draw drills as though for sowing peas. The leeks are to be planted in . these drills. First sprinkle a little superphosphate and bonemeal along the drills ; lift the leeks with a fork,

and separate each. Some people cut the tops off, and some even cut the roots. Do neitherall the roots are wanted, and the leaves help to re-establish the plants. For planting, a good sharp dibber is required. Thrust the dibber in at the . bottom of the drill to its full length ; give it a circular motion so as to broaden the hole, insert a plant in the hole as far as it will reach, then lift it a little to straighten out the roots, which are apt to become doubled up. Then thrust the dibber into the soil at a little distance from the hole, and when it is well down in the soil bring the handle over to the hole with a firm pressure; this will close the hole and put the plant in position. Nothing more is wanted for the present, and watering will not be necessary, as the roots being well down will find all the moisture they require. Practically nothing else will be wanted but hoeing, to keep the soil open and suppress weeds. The drills will be found to be laboursavers, as the mere filling-in of them at a later stage will destroy all weeds that have sprung up between the plants.

Parsnips and carrots for main crop should be sown in breadth at this time, as they are to stand through winter. Prepare the soil - carefully, and sow thinly; it is easier than doing the work roughly and having a lot of thinning to do. Turnips should be sown every seven or eight weeks through the summer months. Sow only a small quantity, just enough to meet current needs; they will not stand long while the weather is hot. Sow red beet for winter use. The long varieties are best for winter ; the turniprooted sorts are valuable for early use, coming in quickly. • Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Autumn Giant cauliflower, and red cabbage should be sown at once if ■ not already in. Peas are to be sown in the usual way at intervals of about two weeks. French beans may now be generally sown at intervals of four weeks. Runner beans also should be got in at once. The best kinds of runner beans are the comparatively new stringless varieties, of which Epicure is one, which is worth a trial.

In most places all the gourd family, including marrows, pumpkins, melons of different classes, and hardy cucumbers, may now be sown in the open ground. Lettuces should not be transplanted at present; it is better to sow in lines and thin out ; the plants come quicker, and are far less trouble.

Tomato-plants are best grown in shelter until reasonably safe from frost, as they do not make any growth to speak of until warm weather is fairly continuous. The first half of November I consider the best time to plant in the middle districts of the Dominion. Of course, there are some places not far apart where the conditions are quite different; one can only speak generally. Growers are again warned against using so much water as is

common in tomato-culture. I never water, and get good crops with little or no disease.

SMALL FRUITS.

Cape gooseberries may be planted when safe from frost. Last year’s plants that are to be kept to fruit again should be cut down to near ground-level.

The soil should be kept open around young strawberry-plants : this will do more to make them grow than will anything else.

Newly planted loganberries should be allowed to retain all the growth they make — more the better.

Check suckers in raspberry plantations by frequent cultivation.. The beds should be kept free of weeds; if couch gets possession it may ruin the plantation.

THE FLOWER-GARDEN

Chrysanthemums should be planted out by now; if not, it is as well to get this done, as the plants may not take easily when the sun gains more power. The plants should be renewed each year, as the growth they make is more likely to be satisfactory than if left alone, although the let-alone method has its merits in some cases. For instance, old clumps left in a border are likely to give large cuttings of flowers, which, though they will not be of a high order taken as separate flowers, yet in the mass may be found more pleasing than a smaller number of fine flowers on a stronger plant. Moreover, the old plants give but little work, for they need not even be tied up. I have known such plants to be appreciated. In a similar manner dahlias may be left alone. The flowers are never of the best, but there is a mass of them, and they come early. The left-alone clumps are quite suitable for leaving in borders among shrubs, where they make a good show without attention.

Most spring bulbs are looking worn by now; they should not,, however, be lost sight of on that account; keep the soil loose about them, so that they may finish well. Narcissi that it may be desired to lift should be taken up before the foliage is quite dead. When it is yellow is the time, for many of the bulbs havenew roots by the time the foliage is dead. After lifting, leave the bulbs lying in the sun till the foliage dries off.

Half-hardy annuals of the aster, &c., type may be sown in the open ground.

Early-flowering shrubs should be pruned as soon as flowering is past. This is necessary in order to give the resultant growth time to mature before winter, and on this operation depends the: quality of next year's flowers.