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GRAPE - CULTURE.

S. F. Anderson.

Vinehouse Work for August. Following the work in the cool. vinehouse advised in the last two month’s issues of this Journal, there is not much to add for. August so far as the treatment of vines is concerned. If there be any alteration necessary in house-fittings, or the fixing of wires, or if a fresh coat of paint be needed, now is the time to do it. The present issue affords a fit opportunity for advising on the best methods of fixing and arranging the wires for carrying the vinerods and their fruit-bearing laterals. As there is no uniformity in the construction of vinehouses, it is necessary to suggest a system that will apply to any span-roofed house. To economize space and obtain the best result in weight of fruit, the wires should be placed so as to obtain this. The following method of fixing the wires is advised.

Obtain sufficient half-inch piping to go, when screwed together, three lengths of the house. One length is fastened 18 in. below the top plate on each side of the house inside by strong staples, or otherwise firmly fixed. The third is suspended by screw-eyes about 18 in. from the ridge-board of the house, having a screw-eye for about every 5 ft. The wires are then fastened to the pipe on one side and passed over the pipe at the top down to the pipe on the opposite side, on which, when tightened, they are fastened. These are arranged at such distances as to suit the vine-rods and the tying-up of the fruit-bearing laterals that grow at right angles to'the rods. To prevent the sagging, of these wires by the weight of the vines, other wires are placed at 4 ft. apart lengthwise of the

house and strained from one end. These, of course, are stretched underneath those that pass over the piping. These wires are fastened by screw-eyes to rafters, if stout enough, or to purlins. The sketch herewith explains the arrangement advised. The best wire for this purpose is No. 12.

It happens rather frequently that owners of vinehouses have occasion to change the variety of grape-vines growing in their houses. The best way of doing this is by grafting the variety they wish to grow on to the old vine. If the old vine be taken out and a young vine planted in its place a loss of from three to four years must follow. By grafting this , can be avoided. The best way to do this is by what is called “inarching.” The method of grafting by inarching one vine upon another is very simple, and can be done by any careful person. When the grower has decided upon this work he should obtain cuttings of the variety of vine that is to be grafted on the old vine and cut them to two buds, with a bud at the bottom and one at the top. Procure io in. flowerpots, or kerosene-tins. If kerosene-tins be used, cut them down to two-thirds of their depth, when standing on end, and punch some Toles in the bottom to provide drainage. Place a layer of broken flower-pot or

brick about i| in. deep, a layer of half-rotted grass or straw another i in., and fill within 1 in. of the top with any good soil. Put in the cutting ; bury it to the top bud, and make firm. Place in a position where it can get the sun all day. ’ To save frequent watering, the pots or tins should be plunged or' buried to nearly their tops in the ground. They must not, however, be allowed to get too dry. The growth will start from the top bud, and should be trained to grow one strong shoot. Any other shoots that push forth should be pinched off but not broken out. In one season, provided the conditions given them be good, they will make sufficient growth to permit of grafting on the old vine the following spring. .

The operation is managed in this way : A place on the old vine is selected where the shoot from the pot-grown vine can be conve-

niently brought into contact. To do this a shelf or some such support may have to be provided for the kerosene-tin. A

slice about 2 in. long is then cut out of the wood of each vine, . thus giving a smooth even surface on each. They are then brought together and tied above and below the cut, to prevent their being displaced, and finally bound firmly together the length of the cut. Some growers tongue each of the surfaces. The ties above and below should not be removed until some

time after the union is complete. The graft can then be covered with graftingwax. ■ . When the two parts have grown firmly together, the nourishment provided by the roots of the cutting can be gradually withdrawn,- first by letting the soil dry in the tin, and finally by cutting off immediately below the graft. It is then only a matter of growing- the, new rod. When that has been obtained the old rod can be cut away in the winter.

The third international conference on refrigeration will take ,place in Chicago; U.S.A.,"in September of this year An exhibition will be held in conjunction with the congress, and a portion of this will be devoted to an educational food exhibit by the United States Department of Agriculture, and to commercial exhibits of perishable foods of all kinds' under refrigeration. Exhibits from foreign countries are desired. — Journal of the British Board of Agriculture.

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Permanent link to this item

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/periodicals/NZJAG19130715.2.29

Bibliographic details

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume VII, Issue 1, 15 July 1913, Page 72

Word Count
936

GRAPE – CULTURE. New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume VII, Issue 1, 15 July 1913, Page 72

GRAPE – CULTURE. New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume VII, Issue 1, 15 July 1913, Page 72

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