ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume VI, Issue 1, 15 January 1913, Page 119

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

Late Hatching.

Mr. A. Mueller, Craigieburn, Canterbury, writes,

What is the reason that chickens this season are in some cases two or three'days late in being hatched ? The shells of the eggs seemed too hard to break to let the chicks out.

The Live-stock and Meat Division replies,—

If the eggs were under a hen they were either stale when put down or the hen did not sit closely at first ; if in an incubator, the temperature was too low, or the thermometer may have been incorrect.or have been in a wrong position : again, sufficient moisture may not have been applied.

Apiary Questions.

Mr. W. A. Dawson, Fortrose, writes, —

1. The bee industry: What scrt of willows are the honey-pr : is it the “ weeping ” willow ? The other sort do not seem to form a great attraction for bees as far as I have seen. ■ •

2. Honey-capping : Here is a good way to get all the honey remaining out and use it to the best advantage. Place the cappings in a vessel and pour on warm water ; stir up thoroughly and let soak a time, then drain through cheese-cloth, and squeeze the wax into balls to be melted. The liquid can be boiled for two hours, in case of foul-brood germs, or for twenty minutes, allowed to get cold, and then boiled for another twenty minutes, care being taken not to burn it in doing so. If too thin, a little sugar may be added when boiled. This can be fed to a strong colony for winter stores, and a watch can be kept to see no sign of foul-brood accompanies, it. 3. Fertilization of fruit-blossoms : Is it so that for purposes of cross-fertilization particular species of fruit should be planted next to each other, that the pollen may be taken by bees or insects immediately from one to the other ? If so, what sort of fruit would be of use for this purpose: for instance, would the pollen from Cleopatra be fertilizing to the blossoms of Gravenstein or any other kind, and so on, both being appks ; also, would the pollen of one class of fruit fertilize any other sort ?

The Orchards, Gardens,' and Apiaries Division replies, • (1.) Both the weeping willow and the common straight willow are of great value to bees in the spring. The flowers last for only , a few days. They yield large quantities of pollen and a considerable quantity of white nectar suitable for brood-rearing. Willows do not flower every year. . . . . (2.) A superior way of treating cappings was given in a previous issue of this Journal (see April, 1912), but the method kindly described by you emphasizes the necessity for great caution in feeding back honey to bees, and would appeal strongly to those owning but a few colonies. (3.) In order to secure the best results with several varieties of fruits it is necessary that cross-fertilization by bees or other insects should take place. The pollen of one class of fruit would not cross-fertilize another class of fruit. There are many varieties of apples in blossom at the same time as Gravenstein that would cross-fertilize with that variety, but I do not think it has yet been definitely proved that the pollen from Cleopatra would do so.

Horse loses Hair.

Mr. R. Douglas, Miranda, writes, —

I have a two-year-old filly, and all her tail-hair is coming out; also has blotches about her head. She has been running with about twenty other young ones, but they

all seem quite right. The mare in question has been in feed all along, and is now nice and fat, and is well in other respects. She does not seem to rub on posts, trees, &c., any more than the rest of the young ones.

The Live-stock and Meat Division replies,—

. This is evidently a case where a personal examination is required before advice •can be given as to what the condition really is, and its cause. .From the fact that the rest of her mates are not affected, and no excessive amount of irritation is shown by the filly herself, it would appear that parasites are not the cause. It would have been more satisfactory if you had stated the condition of the skin itself where the hair is coming off—whether it is inflamed or not. If it is not, I think you had better make a scraping of the skin with a blunt knife. Put this scurf into a clean dry bottle and send it to the Officer-in-Charge, Veterinary Laboratory, Wallaceville, where it will be examined microscopically. Although it is not advisable to apply remedies without knowing the cause of the trouble, you can do no harm in this case by washing the parts with a 1-in-80 solution of any on-poisonous coal-tar dip.

Basic Slag.

Mr. Thomas Brown, Woodville, writes, —-

Will basic slag restore worn-out pasture, and what’ is the best way to apply it ? Will grass take if surface-sown with the slag ? The pasture has partly gone back to native grasses, and is overrun with daisies and other weeds. The land is too broken to plough, except in patches.

The Fields and Experimental Farms Division replies,—

Basic slag will not completely restore worn-out pasture, but will be a material help towards that end. The best way is to broadcast the manure at the rate of 4 cwt. or 5 cwt. per acre. Slag should be applied in late autumn or early winter. If land is of a light sandy nature, sulphate of potash, at the rate of 200 lb. or 300 lb. per acre, can be profitably applied in conjunction with slag. That mixture has been found beneficial. Grass-seed would be greatly benefited if surface-sown with slag. After sowing it will be advisable to keep stock off till the herbage has been washed by rain. There is said to be a possibility of stock being endangered by grazing on pasture so top-dressed.

Twitch.

Mr. C. J. Hurst, Waimate, writes as follows

I shall be obliged if you will give instructions as to the eradication of twitch

The Fields and Experimental Farms Division replies,—

Twitch is the name applied here to several grasses, as Poa pratensis, Agrostis stolonifera, and Agropyron repens (the true couch or twitch). There is but one means of-eradication i.e., cultivation during summer and the careful cleaning of crops. The Poa and the Agrostis can be controlled with less effort than can the true couch. More than one season will be necessary to effect the eradication of this persistent weed. ’. ■

Chou Moellier.

Miss J. Mackay, Sockburn, writes,—

Is the seed on untransplanted chou moellier fit for sowing ? The seed was sown in April, and the plants are now in bloom,

The Fields and Experimental Farms Division replies,

The seed of one-year-old plants is not considered desirable. To avoid this early flowering and seeding, transplantation is resorted to—that is, by delaying the flowering a more uniform crop for feeding is secured.

Vegetables.

‘ Gardener,” Pahiatua, writes,—

Will you kindly tell me through the Journal the time to sow the undermentioned vegetables so as to be able to exhibit them in an agricultural show in March : Beet, runner-beans, onions, peas, pumpkins, and potatoes.

The Orchards, Gardens, and Apiaries Division replies, Dor show purposes onions should be sown in the autumn ; other vegetables in the spring, in well-drained thoroughly prepared soil.

Mangels, Onions, and Carrots.

W. H., Templeton, writes, —

Would you please inform me through your Journal whether I can transplant the following : Mangels, onions, and carrots. I have an acre of each, and there are some bare patches, so will you please inform me if I can transplant, and when.

The Orchards, Gardens, and Apiaries Division replies as follows— Onions and mangels may be transplanted, but not carrots. Transplant in spring, selecting cool moist weather.

Lucerne, Lime, etc.

Mr. George Walker, Gisborne, writes,—

I have an acre of fairly rich alluvial flat on which I am desirous of trying lucerne, and I shall be glad of your advice as to how to proceed. The following is the present condition of the soil, which is inclined to run together, and I also have reason to suppose that it is deficient in lime. Three years ago the land was broken out of grass for the first time and sown in pumpkins with a little super,'this crop being fed off on the ground. Last year it was planted in potatoes with 2 cwt. blood and bone, 2 cwt. super, and | cwt. sulph. potash. As soon as the potatoes were out barley was sown with 2 cwt. basic slag. The barley was fed off, and this spring I ploughed it in, and put in mangels with 1J cwt. blood and bone, 1 cwt. super, | cwt. sulph. potash, and | cwt. sulph. ammonia. The land is very free from weeds, as all the crops were kept clean. How would you advise me to proceed on lifting the mangels ? What is the best form in which to apply the lime ? Can I obtain lime, inoculated soil, and seed from the Department ? If not all of them, can I obtain either ? I may mention that the land is held on renewable lease under the Land for Settlements Act.

The Fields and Experimental Farms Division replies,— The general treatment of land for lucerne-growing has been set out in the August (1911) and May, July, September, and October (1912) issues of the Journal. It would occupy far too much space to Set it out again in detail. The land should be ploughed so soon as the mangels are removed. Lime is best applied burnt and ground. Owing to the large number of applications, the Department’s offer of lime, seed, and inoculated soil has been withdrawn. It is expected that the offer will be renewed in the coming autumn. .

Spring Feed. —Lucerne.

Mr. C. A. Bloomfield, Mabel, Southland, writes,-

I have an area of land stumped last winter on which I intended this month to sow turnip, but have been unable to get ready in time, and the land is not yet broken up, but will be so by beginning of January, and I shall be glad if you will advise as to what it would be best to sow in order to get the maximum amount of good feed for cattle during next spring and summer. The land is of fair quality, on clay and gravel. Would a mixture of Italian rye, rape, and clover sown in autumn be suitable, and, if so, what seeding and manure per acre should be given ? I have a small plot on which I sowed lucerne in the second week in October, and the plants vary from 2 in. to 7 in. in height. The plot received a light application of caustic lime only. Would the lucerne benefit by being cut back and by top-dressing with liquid manure from fowl-droppings mixed with lime ?

The Fields and Experimental Farms Division replies,—

VEhe proposed mixture of grasses would appear to be suitable. Without a knowledge of that particular part of Southland it might be misleading to state the quantities of grasses that should be sown. On such land over a greater part of New Zealand basic slag is considered a satisfactory manure. It is applied in quantities varying from 3 cwt. to 5 cwt. per acre. Spring-sown lucerne should be cut back before the end of the year. The liquidmanure top-dressing you suggest would be of assured benefit.

Fertilizer.

Mr. H. W. Parsons, Onewhero,. writes, —

• Will you kindly inform me through the correspondence columns of your Journal if it is advisable to mix nightsoil with wood-ashes.

The Agricultural Chemist replies,— These fertilizers should not be mixed.

“ Gassy ” Milk.

Mr. A. W. Hall, Waimamaku, Hokianga, writes,

Can you tell me whether land that has been heavily manured in the autumn with basic slag, and sown down with Italian rye and cow grass, and allowed to grow very rank, would affect the milk of cows grazing on it ? I may say the rye has run to seed. My reason for asking is that the manager of our cheese-factory at Waimamaku complains of my milk being gassy.” I might state that others having rank feed have had the same trouble, but not on manured land.

The Dairy-produce Division replies, —

It is not considered that the use of basic slag for top-dressing pastures is in any way detrimental to the quality of the milk produced. At the same time, when rye and clovers have a very rank growth the milk sometimes possesses an objectionable flavour, but the same would apply to any rank feed of which the cows are allowed to obtain a constant supply. The cause of “ gassy ” milk is due to the action of bacteria, and can be avoided by a thorough cleansing of all the utensils with which the milk may come in contact, and the proper cooling of the night’s milk and keeping it in a position where the surrounding atmosphere is pure. •

Ensilage-pit.

Mr. A. S. H. Kendrick, Tariki, writes, —

I would like you to tell me which would be the best place to make an ensilage-pit, on the level ground and of concrete, or to dig out a pit on the side of a gully, the top to be level with the ground ? What would be the best size to feed about eighty cows ?

Mr. W. Dibble, the Department’s exponent in the making of ensilage, supplies the following information :

The gully would be the more economical, providing it is fairly dry and that drainage is provided for. In excavating the pit in the gully, if taken out the size required, a considerable amount of money could be saved in the concreting work alone, as the main portion would only need to be filled in at the back with concrete, and the inside faced up. Wires should be laid through the concrete on the ferro principle to hold the front portion that is not so protected. . It must be remembered to have the inside of the silo a perfectly smooth surface. It should be made round for preference. In selecting the site see that it can be made convenient for loading, unloading, and weighting, also for carting to stock. It is preferable to feed in the open paddock, owing to the strong aroma of the silage. If it is decided not to concrete the pit in the gully, make a point of keeping the sides of the material 18 in. clear of the banks. This will enable the material to settle down evenly. Unless

this is done it will hitch or hang on the rough surface at the sides of the bank in spite of weighting, and will let the air in, thus causing unnecessary waste. For a silo to feed from eighty to ninety cows I would suggest that two silos be made of the following dimensions : Circumference, 46 J ft. ; height, 25 ft. ; estimated weight of silage at 56 lb. per cubic foot, 106-34 tons. In carrying out the work in this way one silo should be ready to take advantage of crops almost at any season of the year, and there would also be a liberal quantity of silage on hand to keep up the milk-supply at all times.

Preserving Peas and Tomatoes.

Mr. James T. McHarg, Woolston, Canterbury, writes, —

Would you kindly let me have a reliable recipe for preserving green peas, also for tomatoes. I have a fairly large garden of fruit-trees and vegetables. We can manage the fruit in syrup, but this season want to try geeen peas and tomatoes.

The Orchards, Gardens, and Apiaries Division replies,—

The following are reliable methods for preserving green peas and tomatoes: — Green peas : (1.) The peas must be young— i.e., not starting to make growth. (2.) Scald and partly cook the peas in a sieve, wire basket, or colander. (3.) Wash thoroughly in cold water, two or three changes. (4.) Fill the bottles and complete the filling with very light brine (just to taste the salt only). (5.) Preserve as fruit, but count the time from when the water reaches 180° Fahr. ; bring up to 200° to 205° Fahr, and preserve for fifteen minutes or longer if the peas will stand the process, which they should do if correct in variety and condition : twenty-five minutes and upwards is preferable. (6.) Screw down and allow to cool as usual. Tomatoes: (1.) The liquor should be a very light brine—say, 4 oz. to 6oz. of salt to a gallon of water, prepared as recommended for syrup. (2.) The temperature should be 200° to 205° Fahr., and the time for preserving fifteen to twenty minutes according to the size of the tomatoes, counting the time from 180° Fahr. Grade the fruit for size, and do not cut them. With the exception of these and a few minor details the process is the same-as for fruit.

Silver-blight.—Grape-vine.

Mr. J. R. McGregor, Waikohu, Gisborne, writes,

Would you please be kind enough to let me know some good spray for silver-blight, which is making its appearance on some of the fruit-trees. I have been spraying with the Bordeaux and kerosene emulsion sprays in rotation, but they do not seem to affect this blight. I have also been using arsenate of leadlJ lb. to 50 gallons of spray.

The Orchards, Gardens, and Apiaries Division replies,—

In some instances spraying with a thick limewash has proved effective in controlling silver-blight, in others the application in early spring as a soil-dressing of 4 lb. to 6 lb. of sulphate of ammonia or sulphate of iron has proved satisfactory.

Violets.

Mr. J. H. Farquhar, Seatoun, Wellington, writes, —

I have a bed of violets, and, like the famous fig-tree of the Bible, can get nothing but leaves, and them in abundance. One expert gardener tells me to grow them more in the shade ; another, that they want more sun another, that the ground is too rich ; and yet another says the ground is too poor. Could you tell me what to do to get them to bloom ? They are healthy and strong, but always go to leaf —just-a flower here and there.

The . Orchards, Gardens, and Apiaries Division replies,—

In order to secure more abundant flowering of your violets I should advise you to transplant them in the autumn or early spring into soil that is not. too rich