THE FARM GARDEN.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume VI, Issue 1, 15 January 1913, Page 76

THE FARM GARDEN.

W. H. Taylor.

VEG ETABLE-CULTURE .

When growing strongly, asparagus attains a considerable height, and there is danger of injury to the., crowns from the effects of wind. The higher the stems the greater the leverage. It is important to preserve every stem, but there is not the slightest necessity to let them run up to a great height. My custom is to snick off the tops as soon as they begin to spread open freely. A flick with the knife does it. This has the effect of strengthening the side sprays, and quite as much growth is made as would be the case if the shoots were allowed to run up ; but, development being by extension of side shoots, a denser mass of the wiry growth is obtained. . One plant becomes interlaced with another all over the bed The mutual support thus afforded strengthens the whole against the assault of wind, and obviates the necessity for staking and tying, a thing I have never found it necessary to do, except during the first, summer after planting, when there is not enough stems to bind together; but even then not much help in the way of staking is necessary if the tops are checked in the manner; indicated.

.By this time most planting will be completed. Savoys, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cabbages should all be out. Anything in arrear should be brought into line at once. Keep the soil loose between the rows, so as to conserve moisture, which is unlikely to be superabundant at this time. Some people are accustomed when planting broccoli and similar plants to throw a small quantity of artificial manure on the spot where each plant is to go, then when the planting is done —with the hoe, as it should be —the fertilizer becomes mixed with the soil about the roots of the young plants. It should be recognized that this application benefits the plants for a short time only — gives them a start. The roots quickly get beyond the fertilizer, and, unless it is considered that the soil is rich enough to grow the plants, more should be given by broadcasting. Cultivation will work it m among the soil, and the rain will wash it down. Basic slag, superphosphate, and bonedust are all suitable. Apply just enough to dust over the surface of the soil, about the same as if it were grass-seed being sown. '

A last sowing of peas may be put in. It is somewhat problematica what the result may be, usually not a very large crop is obtained

The best reward is obtained by sowing a true late variety. That local conditions have some bearing on the matter is made plain by an experience I had here several years ago. On the same day and on the same plot I sowed Sutton’s Late Queen and Sutton’s Latest of All. The former variety gave a quite satisfactory crop of good-flavoured peas; the latter’ was absolutely barren. This shows what valuable results might follow extensive trials of peas.

French beans may still be sown in quantity. At this time be careful to sow in a quite open situation, for crops sown from now onward will be bearing when the days are waning, hence advantage should be taken of all sunlight available. The last sowing of French beans may be made during the second week in February.

Carrot-seed put in now would produce serviceable roots of medium size. Short - horn varieties are most appropriate for sowing at this time. There would be no advantage in sowing if -there is a crop advancing. They would become useless, just as when planted early in the spring. Some people prefer young carrots to those fully grown. This may supply a reason for sowing.

Sow turnips about seven weeks after the last lot was sown. Putting it another way, as soon as. the first of a bed are fit for use it is time to sow again. Those in the first bed will remain fit for use just about as long as it will take to get another crop ready.

The same guide is safe with radishes : sow anew when you begin to pull from a bed.

Lettuce-seed should be put in a week or •so before the first of those last sown are fit to cut, sowing or planting in a small area only.

Endive, being more hardy than lettuce, are best for winter use and may be sown now, and again a month hence. To get endive at the best they should be blanched. This is done in England by inverting a flower-pot over them and leaving it until the leaves are white. The advantage of covering is increased crispness and the elimination of the bitterness characteristic to endive. They can, however, be used without blanching.

If the supply of red beet is short put in seed of the turnip-rooted variety. These come quicker than the long sorts, and are on that account more reliable for late sowing.

Leeks. —The season being late, doubtless others are in the same position as myself, regarding these viz., a little to the rear. It, however, is not a matter of particular moment, for growth becomes more rapid as the days decline in length a little, and more moisture prevails. My method of planting is to select a well-worked plot of ground of fair richness; on this draw drills as for peas, the drills to be 15 in. apart; scatter along the drills a little bonedust and

superphosphate ; when the dibber is thrust down to make the holes for the plants a portion of the fertilizers will be carried down, thus coming in close contact with the roots, which will thereby find it as soon as they begin to work.. The leek-plants should be a . fair size for planting; the stems should be about 8 in. long. Method of planting : thrust a dibber well down through the bottom of the drill, so as to make a hole 12 in. deep, about; thrust the root end of a plant well down, then lift it up far enough to straighten the roots; thrust the dibber in again .2 in. or 3 in. away from the hole, then force the handle, over towards the plant, and the soil will be then closed firmly around the plant. Do not attempt to fill the hole by pushing in loose dirt —it cannot be satisfactorily accomplished. Some years ago an assistant in another place did it for me ’ contrary to instructions. Every plant bolted to seed. Examination showed that the roots never got hold of the soil, and as it was not put firmly about them they became too dry to work. After the leeks have made a start to grow a little nitrate of soda sprinkled along the drills when rain is falling will help them. The quantity may be a teaspoonful to each plant.

Celery. —We are now at about the latest date for planting. Good strong, plants put out now. will succeed if they are supplied with plenty of water. It is useless to expect to grow celery in dry soil. It is perhaps the grossest feeder we cultivate, and responds well to a deluge of water. Still it should not 'be thought that it will not do well without large . and constant supplies of water. It wants a lot of water, at the start at this time of the year, for the soil is hot,, and the weather trying. There should be plenty of manure below it. This holds moisture and. keeps the roots cool. Rows planted ■ earlier demand attention, varying according. to the state of growth. Shortly after plants start into rapid growth they begin to spread out the lower leaves to a horizontal position. This must be corrected, or later on it will‘be found they cannot be got upright without breaking. Take them in . time and mould up a little, just enough to keep the lower and refractory leaves . upright. Further moulding-up. I . advocate: being left till growth is complete. Then mould up completely in one operation. This is becoming the most general practice, though there are still some who adhere to the old plan of moulding up a little at a time as . the plants grow. The disadvantage of this plan is that the banks of soil throw the water from many of the roots, and, except in very good and heavily manured soil, the plants suffer. The varieties of celery known as self-blanching, Henderson’s White Plume and Golden Self - blanching, are really wrongly so called, because of their want of colouring-matter in stem and foliage. Moulding-up is necessary to promote brittleness.

Red cabbages should be got out at once or they will not heart.

Shallots and garlic are nearing maturity. See that the cloves are not buried in the soil. If they are, clear it away so as to expose them to the air. If the soil is heavy, and breaks away overmuch, replace some of it with clean sand. The cloves finish well if halfcovered with sand. .

Rhubarb of the winter varieties may be pulled from in moderation. If the beds are established it is not wise to strip the clumps bare. If they have stooled out very much they are likely to produce very small stalks unless relieved. Chop off the outer parts with a spade, so as to reduce them to a moderate size. A few doses of liquid manure will help them a lot, but do not give it strong while the soil is dry, because in such case the plants, being thirsty, might absorb more of the strong stuff than would be good for them. Liquid manure is best applied soon after a good fall of rain. A mulch of manure will be beneficial to them.,