By Road and River in North Taranaki.

New Zealand Illustrated Magazine, 1 June 1901, Page 662

By Road and River in North Taranaki.

By " Tui."

Wfflf pleasurable anticipations with W3 H* W^ lC^ niac le preparations a few /(, Jir weeks since for a well- earned holiday to be spent in a drive along the New Plymouth — Auckland Road, as'far as the Mokau Township and a camp on the river of that name, were fully realised.

Our party consisted of seven men, including the driver, and a boy. The team was a capital one of three fine bays, drawing a light express, whicih held us comfortahly, together with all the necessaries for camping out, and provisions for a five days' trip. The Saturday previous was a pouring wet

every prospect of a settled week. We left New Plymouth at six a.m. Just after passing Bell Block, about six miles on our journey, it seemed as if all our weather forecasts were out of order, and each man rushed to his swag for a coat to ward off a smart shower driven up from the south-west. However, this fortunately lasted but a few minutes, and fine weather prevailed.

At Waitara we pulled up to take aboard a supply of bread hot from the oven. This is the last place at which bread is procurable until you get well up into the Waikato, and unless you are prepared to make it, or do without, a sufficiency for the length of your

day, but Sunday was a gi'eat improvement in the matter' of "weather, and by the time of starting on Monday morning there was

journey must be obtained here. At nine o'clock we made a halt for breakfast, and rested the horses at Onaero

a distance of twenty miles from New and reported progress. We notioed on I; ho Plymouth. The billy was boiled and cloth door of the store an announcement ofnthletie — the express tarpaulin — laid in n. lovely sum-fs nml n Honco fm> Hrn f\>llnwimr valley running oui

from the roadside to the coast, and bounded on either hand by the lofty banks of some mighty river of a bygone age. On the opposite side of the river from our breakfast table was a brick kiln, where bricks of a very fine quality, for which there is considerable demand, are made. The cliff on the left bank is famous as the site where the Taranaki Maoris threw over their women folk when

driven before the Waikatos, father than let them fall into the hands of their enemies. Shortly after we passed the thriving village of Urenui, some two miles further north. Here we saw one of the best-built and cleanest Maori pas in Tarauaki, and in the adjacent fields we noticed several groups of natives harvesting oats, which are late this year, with modern I'eapers and binders. Three miles further, and we left the metalled road, which continues on to the scene of the massacre of the missionary, Whitely, and Major Gascoigue and family. Oar route, which was only opened through to Auckland for vehicular traffic about eighteen months to two years since, took us to the right and inland. We made a gentle descent into the Mirai Valley, and formed our first acquaintance with the famous papa rock. For about a mile we drove, with the Mimi River to the left at oar feet, and on our right rose precipitously an immense cliff of this papa formation. Eight miles from Urenui is Uruti, a new township marked by the usual familiar store and telephone bureau. From here one of our party " rang up " his number in town,

Thursday. The hull for the dance is tliori!, but where room could ho found fora, running track in such a country of fallen timber wiih a great puzzle to us until on our return on the Friday we noticed it pegged out with red flags in the shape .of a serni-eirele, and the logs drawn carefully aside. The valley of Uruti has been well wooded, but the timber is now nearly all fulled, with the exception of the white pine, which we were pleased to note has here been carefully left standing, doubtless for future use. The level land is very rich indeed, but iho steep slopes, which flank the valley, are useless, for as soon as the timber is felled, the rain carries away the top soil, leaving ugly clay patches, on which nothing can find a foothold, and on which uo pasture will grow. Driving on from Uruti store the road wound along the valley for about five miles, and then we commenced to ascend the divide between the Uruti and Tougaporutu Valleys. The road took us over Mount Messenger, and reached an altitude of about six hundred and fifty feet, which is considerable, when it is borne in mind that we mounted direct

from about sea level on the one side and descended to the same on the other. As we climbed higher and higher, by many a score of intricate twists and turns of the road among the hills, the magnificent grandeur of the scenery unfolded itself. On the one hand, fern-clad ravines, stretching down and away in the distance, just as they did centuries ago, are here and there spanned by the bright wire of the electric telegraph, which signifies even for these remote places subjugation to civilization. On the other hand are steep papa cliffs broken here and thei'e by the top end of a gully, round which the road passes. At last we reached the top, and look back. A magnificent panorama was opened before us. Away in the blue distance, beyond wave upon wave of forest-clad I'anges, was grand old Egmont, her perfect snow-capped peak, kissed by a warm beam of the afternoon sun, rising some thousands of feet higher. The descent is not so steep, and we thought we might venture to drive down. But when in the conveyance the heights and depths seemed to grow on one, and the driver was offered much superfluous but well-meant advice. " Hug the bank,

Joe," " Keep the leader to tlw cliff," etc., etc. On our return hills that had appeared steep on the way out seemed but geutle

undulations after ouv drive in this part of the country. The additional telegraph wire to Auckland, which will relieve the present congested state of the East Coast lines, is now being erected, and we met the party of linesmen about three miles north of Mount Messenger, and a snapshot reproduced here is a memento of our meeting. The log was part of a dead tree which endangered the line and had just beeu felled. We drove up in time to assist in removing it from the roadway. One of our party was an enthusiastic specialist in the provision trade, and he "improved each shining hour " with little disquisitions on the relative values of various foods. One was an eulogy of the green tomato as an excellent and mild corrective for the digestive organs. As we drew near the banks of the Tongaporutu, where we intended camping for the night, we stopped while our friend called upon an acquaintance for a supply of milk. He returned with the milk, and in addition, his handkerchief full of his favourite green tomatoes, which wei'e snugly packed away in the express. But, alas ! fortune's smiles are fleeting, and the tomatoes were

not seen again. There might have been a " doubting Thomas" amongst us, who, fearful of the effect of such strong food upon his health, quietly dropped the tomatoes over the tailboard, but this is mere conjecture. Our first night's camp was pitched at Tongaporutu Ford, a distance of some forty - three miles New Plymouth, having been covered

that day. We were unable to cross that night owing to the state of the tide. After a period of unrest, on the part of several who were

novices at camping out, the dawn of luesday found us with tent struck, all ready to cross the river, as it was low tide at live a. in The Tongaporutu is the only river south of the Mokau not yet bridged, and it will be shortly, for the contract is let at something like £4,000, and is to be completed in two years. The site for the bridge is about a mile above the ford. The driver took across our baggage in the express, while I rode the leader to prevent any trouble, as the horses were not accustomed to river work. The others followed in a canoe shortly after, and ascending the bank, we set out breakfast on the plateau between the Tongaporutu and Mokau. The country changes its character here, and the run on to Mokau is fairly level. Starting at half past seven, we reached the latter place very comfortably by eleven o'clock, and took several capital photos on the way. From the part of the road looking south, a splendid view of the Taranaki peninsula is obtained, showing the whole of the coast line as far as New Plymouth

Arrived at Mokau two of us crossed in the ferry to the township, and failing anything better, managed to arrange for the use of a leaky whaleboat through the good offices of an obliging stockman, who also volunteered and was accepted as our boatman. After much preparation on the part of our impromptu sailor, we set off for the other side again to pick up the rest of our party, and proceeded up river to a point about a mile away, where we proposed to lunch. This place, I may say, was strongly opposed by our boatman, and his opinion was supported by both tide and river current, which were against us. But go we did for all that, and this was the manner of our going. The " gentleman " of the party," as we atyled the man, who was so fond of work that, like Jerome, he stood and watched others do it, took the stern oar. His reputation as an oarsman rested on the fact that he had once

stroke and a seat, while the v old tar " (out of compliment) took a small oar, and for want of a seat, faced round to me, standing, and " backwatered." The consequent uneven ness of our stroke was only matched by the marvellous steering ability of our " Henley " cox, and the combination gave such erratic movements to the boat that tho land lubbers feared for their lives, vowing they would nevor " put to sea " with such a crew again. For an hour commands and counter-commands flew all over the boat, and on the part of the nervous ones became so imperative and vociferous as to threaten the peace of the party. However, although our route was circuitous, we at last reached our destination, and as we landed for dinner, a very genuine and simultaneous sigh of relief escaped us. This point was once the site of the Rev.

visited Henloy vvhon tho famous bout, raco was not on. Tli« wxt of us had no reputation, and were sjlad. I, with a lar^o oar, took

Goo. H. Wliito,

TELEGItAI'U LINKSMION. Now Plymouth.

Sneider's Mission Station. A few old wliares, surrounded by some fine cherry and peach trees, still remain. Here lived, until his death a year ago, an old Maori who carried alone from Mokau to the natives living at Moturoa (New Plymouth breakwater) the news of the invasion of Taranaki by the Waikatos. After our "toiling in rowing," we did ample justice to an excellent dinner of tinned meats and fruits. We decided to camp here, so the afternoon was spent in erecting the tent, making beds, and a general " loaf." After tea we had our photos taken in various positions about the camp, and all collaborated in composing a song which should make those of our friends who had not been up the Mokau River envious. This circumstance led to us calling our camping ground " Inspiration Point." During the evening we were visited by a settler who lived in the neighbourhood. He introduced himself in a very satisfactory manner by bringing us a kit of the loveliest, juiciest

apples I have ever seen, and to these we quickly introduced ourselves. On the Thursday morning he showed me over his orchard, and it was indeed a picture. One tree was pointed out to me which had borne over seven hundredweight of apples the previous season, and when I saw it the fruit on it could not have weighed less than five hundredweight. The bright sunshine of Wednesday put everyone in good spirits, no more fear of the boat was manifested, and it was soon apparent that everyone had got his " river legs." Taking advantage of the incoming tide, we started up river about seven a.m , reaching by easy stages Owen's Clearing, seventeen miles from the township, by half past eleven, having taken a good many photos on the way. The scenery all the way is really beautiful. Every bend is a picture, and had time permitted, hundreds of different and yet equally interesting views might be taken. Such a wealth of fern and evergreen as the New Zealand bush displays

along the banks of the Mnkau is .seldom to be seen. It would almost appear as ir thu Creator had difficulty iv finding room for all the vegetation, with suoh prodigality is it heaped on every spur and crowded into every ravine. Wherever the eye turns is endless variety of shade in green, relieved here and thereby a bunch of red rat a flowers and the yellow berry of the karaka. Timber of good quality is found in large quantities. Totara, rinm, kahikatea, and birch abound. Here and there is to be seen a fine puriri. Already several sawmills have started operations, and unless steps are taken promptly, the beauty of the river will be greatly marred by felling the timber on the water's edge. One cannot speak of Mokau without mentioning its coal deposits. lam told that for fifty miles along its northern bank the mining rights are taken up, and that throughout the whole iof that land coal abounds. At present the only mine working regularly is that owned by the syndicate which took over the property of the first Mokau Coal Company in which the late Sir Harry Atkinson, the lateM»\ H. R. Richmond

(once superintendent nf Taranaki Province), and Mr. E. M. Smith, the present M.11.R. for Taranaki, were interested some! twenty years ago. Persons capable of judging nay that for a lignite, it is a Very lino coal, and equal to any of that class, found in tho colony. At Owen's Clearing we stayed about a couple of hours, during which we had lunch, and then started on our return. As his task neared completion, our " boatman " evidently felt freer of responsibility, and became quito loquacious. He informed us very gravely that with " this boat you must get on plenty of memento to keep her going easily." This remark of his we determined to keep as a momentum. Each time he spoke, he stopped rowing altogether, and naturally it was no easy task to keep a straight course. On one occasion the boat slewed right round on to a sandbank. In a moment the old fellow's arms and legs were in every part of the boat at one and the same time, and in his haste he mad© confusion worse confounded. He turned to me in groat disgust, as it was I who had been vainly trying to steer to his spasmodic pulling, and wanted to know if I couldn't

mind what I was doing. Seven p.m. saw us quietly taking our evening meal in camp after perhaps the most enjoyable day of the trip. On Thursday morning we were very loth to start homewards, but time and tide wait for no man, and we had to cross the Tongaporutu and make our camp on the opposite side before dark. To do this, we struck camp about ten a.m., and dropped down river with the tide to Mokau township, and lunched there. After our boatman had sat for his photo on horseback — he is very proud of his horse, and is anxious the Government should buy it at a good figure for the Transvaal — we bid him an affecting farewell, and left Mokau at two p.m. At the mouth of the Mohakatino, another large river about four miles south of Mokau, we took a very typical picture of the coast features about here in the shape of a curious formation of cliffs and caves that is there. Towards evening the wind blew very

ment, about two miles south of Tongaporutu. These whares are usually built of split totara or rimu, and are about twelve feet by twenty-four, the space equally divided into a sleeping and a living room. At one end is a wooden chimney of the true backwoods style — two walls of split wood the full width of the main building, and joined by a piece of sawn timber on each side. We wei'e not long in getting our house brushed out with fern, the fire lighted, and billy boiling. A plentiful meal of tea and hot buttered toast followed, in which two four-pound loaves disappeared. We wound up our last night in camp by all singing together our song in praise of Mokau to the tune of Scott Gatty's " Playing on the Old Banjo." The remaining forty miles of our return journey were comfortably accomplished the next day, and we reached .New Plymouth by nine p.m., earnestly wishing the trip was but commencing, and

threateningly for rain, so we took advantage of permission given to use, for the night, a whare belonging to the Telegraph Depart-

fully convinced that it would be difficult to put more real pleasure into five days than we experienced in our trip up the Mokau.