Boxer and Botanist.

New Zealand Illustrated Magazine, 1 February 1901, Page 376

Boxer and Botanist.

By Hastings Braddell,

Illustrated by IS. B. Vauglian

jUp HAVE always had a taste for botany, f I and in my Highland home I never had o| to complain of want of recreation, |=js for the mountains surrounding Glen Almond were literally covered with plants dear to the heart of the botanist. It was therefore with great delight that I received the appointment of assistant collector to Mr. Wilks, the well-known botanist of London. During the ten years I spent in his employ I visited almost every part of the world in search of plants and flowers. It did not surprise me therefore when I received orders, a few weeks after my return from India, to prepare for a trip to China. I called on Mr. Wilks for full instructions. " I sent for you, Ross, because I have heard that some travellers, who managed to escape from the Boxers with their lives, assert that thei'e is a plant known only to the priests of this Society, which is a wonderful medicine, a panacea for all the ills of the Chinaman, in fact!" "And I?" " You are to find it, if possibe." "It seems rather a large order, sir," I remarked, " but I will do my best. Can you give me any description of the plant?" " Black and yellow flowers, like the lily in shape, with red spikes." "Very well," I said, copying the description into my notebook, " when do you wish me to start ?" "As soon as possible. Saunders will accompany you as usual (Saunders had been my servant and general factotum in most |of my previous excursions, and was a man on whom I could rely in an emergency).".

" You know, Ross," remarked Mr. Wilks, " there will be no little danger attached to this expedition, and if you don't care for it, say so at once." " No, sir," I answered, " I will go through with it, and endeavour to obtain the flower, though honestly, I don't think there is much chance ; these old priests guard their secrets too well." "Well, perhaps so," assented Mr. Wilks, " you will in any case keep your eyes open for other prizes." As a i*esult of this conversation I found myself one morning on the P. and 0. " Oregon Castle," en route to Vow Chow, a port in the Gulf of Leoa Tong. On arriving in port I went to the British Resident to find out something about the people with whom I was to spend the next few months of my life. From him I learnt that the Society was agitated by one of its periodical outbreaks of fanatical fury, and were murdering right and left among the foreign population of Manchuria. " I should strongly advise you to stay where you are, Mr. Ross, at any rate for the present," he observed. But all the Scot that is in me rose against this course, and the prospect of danger only strengthened my determination to push on at once. I therefore engaged half-a-dozen Chinese bearers ; as I spoke Chinese fluently myself I did not need an interpreter. We set out next morning, mounted on stout ponies, the bearers swinging along behind with the baggage, slung on bamboo poles. In this manner, "with proper relays, it is possible to travel at the rate of sixty miles a day.

Glancing at the map of North-Eastern China the reader will observe that the Shan Mountains run in a north-easterly direction through Manchuria. It was my intention to follow the foot of this range as closely as possible, travelling slowly, and thoroughly searching the surrounding country for specimens, to a village called Ninguta.

Saunders and I were attired in canvas " ducks " and lai'ge sun helmets. We had game rifles slung over our shoulders, revolvers in our belts, and leather specimen boxes strapped like knapsacks on our backs. The bearers were dressed in dirty canvas, drawn in at the waist by a girdle, in which a long curved knife, like a scimitar, was stuck. They carried the cases destined to hold our prizes, and the ammunition boxes slung over their ohoulders on long bamboo poles.

As night came on, we ascended the slopes of the mountains, to find a suitable camping place, and while the coolies prepared food and pitched their tents, Sauuders and I packed away the trophies we had secured during the day,

After supper I noticed the bearers talking very earnestly together, and, considering the unsettled state of the country, this fact gave me some uneasiness, the more so as I had conceived a great distrust of their leader, a large muscular individual, rejoicing in the name of Tom Sing. I called Saunders, and found that he shared my misgivings.

"This evenin', sir," he said, "I saw that pig-tailed rascal, Tom Sing, meet another of his kidney at the corner of the road yonder, and it's my humble opinion that they're

going to spring some devilment on us!" " Well, Saunders, we must koop a sharp eye on them ; is your revolver loaded ?" " Yes, sir, andso's my rifle," ho answered. That night we determined to keep watch alternately ; there was, however, no alarm. We were astir early the next morning, and during the day tho bearers did their

work in a sullen, almost defiant mariner, which in a Celestial must be regarded as a very bad sign. Progress was very slow along the rude mountain track, intersected here and there by creeks and rivulets, bridged by a number of bamboo rods laid parrallel with each other, about twelve inches apart. Over these primitive bridges the coolies skipped

like mountain goats, while Saunders and I followed as best we could. The scenery was the grandest I have ever seen, surpasssing even that of the wilds of Mexico. Along the path, the beautiful (jh/cine senensis grew luxuriantly, while high up among the rocks the lovely bellshaped flowers of the iscora coccinea and chirota senensis peeped from among their masks of leaves. As we went along I noticed that the bearers kept their eyes fixed on the mountain side, as if expecting to see some signal. Last night's fears forcibly recurred to me, when Saunders came up and said : "Do you see that rag hanging in the bush up there, sir?" "Yes," I replied, " what of it ?" " it's a signal, sir, and they've been expecting it," he answered. " What do you think is the meaning of it ?" I asked. He shook his head and did not answer, but looked very grave, and examined his revolver ominously. My reasons for selecting Ninguta for our destination were that not only is it in the centre of a region famous for orchids and other plants for which collectors have often risked their lives, but it was the site of a Boxer camp, or " fist," as it is called. The Boxers, or to give them their full title, the " Spiritual Boxers," are, as everyone vow knows, a body of religious fanatics, somewhat resembling the old Thugs of India. They belong chiefly to Manchuria, though branches have lately been formed in other parts of the country. They are the most famous organization of a country noted for its secret societies, and recent events show them capable of the most horrible crimes. At certain times they work themselves up into a frenzy of fanatical zeal, or " run a-muck,"as it is expressively called in the Straits Settlement. Though bitterly resenting the encroachment of foreign nations, especially the Russians, into his country, the Chinaman, as a rule, has not sufficient spirit to offer any resistance ; but the Boxei's and similar societies have at last

convinced the Chinese Government that if they do not rise now, their country will be wrested from them altogether, cat up like a chess board, and divided among the Powers. Towards evening we came in sight of cultivation once more, a sign that we were near our destination. We made our usual preparations for camping, and, as the natives seemed to work in a better humour than they had shown all day, I thought it safe to leave Saunders in charge of the camp, and strolled off to survey the surrounding country. I had not been gone many minutes when I was startled by hearing two shots fired in quick succession from the direction of the camp. With a sinking feeling in my heart, I hurried back, revolver in hand. When close to the camp, I saw the coolies rushing away in great confusion, and heard two more shots from Saunder's rifle. In a few seconds I was by his side enquh'ing the reason of their sudden flight. " A few minutes after you had gone, sir," he said, " Tom Sing came up to me as I was packing the specimens, and began jabbering at a great rate. Of course I couldn't make out a word of what he said, and before I could say ' Jack Robinson,' the whole lot were scooting like the wind ; so I up with my rifle and fired a couple of shots at 'em, and I think I wounded one," he concluded breathlessly. " Where do you think they have gone ?" I asked. " Why, you can take your oath, sir," he exclaimed, excitedly, " they've gone to join them there Boxers, and the whole swarm of them will be down on us in no time ; that's why I fired on 'em, sir, to stop 'em." " Very likely," I said. "It seems to me that the sooner we get out of this the better." " Yes, sir," said Saunders. " I saw a grand place in the mountings, about a quarter of a mile from here, that we could hold against a crowd of 'em." " Help me to hide these plant boxes in the undei'growth, and we'll be off there at once with the ammunition and provisions."

It was truly a splendid place for a seige. Half way up the mountain side was a shallow cave ; with a wall of rocks across its mouth, we considered it well nigh impregnable. Sauuders and I built that wall, and got the inside of the cave ship-shape without any undue waste of time. We had provisions enough to last for a week, if used with care, and as there was a spring inside the cave, we had no immediate fear of hunger or thirst. I calculated that the coolies would take about half an hour to reach the village, fully double that time to collect their friends and return ; we had therefore quite au hour and a half in which to receive them. Night came on, and still no sign of the Boxers, though both Saunders and I swept the country continually with our glasses until darkness set in. Notwithstanding our apparent security neither of us felt any inclination to rest. We contended ourselves with a hasty meal, and laid out the cartridges in a convenient position. As we lay there, behind our little wall of stones, we pondered on the erratic ways of Fate. It was certainly a very great pity to see this splendic country overrun with secret societies and outlaws of every description, who make the life of the explorer and scientist a very uncertain commodity indeed. In the hands of a less conservative Government, China might be made one of the richest countries in the world ; but with the low standard of education of the average Chinaman, who looks with suspicion on railroads, and holds up his hands in horror at the idea of a standing army, this is not possible. It must have been about ten o'clock when Saunders crawled up to me and whispei'ed r " I think I hear something rustling among the bushes down below, sir." I listened intently, and presently heard footsteps approaching ; they ceased when about two hundred yards from us. Suddenly the whole surrounding countiy was illuminated by the glare of many torches, lighted simultaneously. The scene revealed to us was a striking

aoue. We perceived about fifty 0 hiimrnen, dressed in the loose cnnvas clothos peculiar to the Boxer's society, ou whoso faces and shaved heads the dauoing light produced a fantastic and weird effect. The strong light soon revealed our hiding place, and it was promptly rushed. Saundorß and i tired together into the approaching mass of humanity, and the attackers stopped short, as if bewildered by the noise of the firearms. But only for a moment, and then, with a savage yell, they dashed towards us once more, and though wo iirod as fast as we oould load, and certainly killed many, the very impetuosity of their onslaught brought them to the level of our breastwork, and a moment later wo were struggling for our lives in the midst of a howling mass of raging devils. The Boxers, in their wild attempts to got at us and skewer us on their long knives, did no little damage to their friends. Wo kept them off for what appeared to bo several hours, but in reality could only have been a few minutes, then their numbers began to tell. We were well nigh exhausted. Two Chinamen, more courageous than tho rest, rushed at Saundors, who went down before thoir savage onslaught.' Left standing alone, I was quickly overpowered, bound hand and foot, aud placed beside Saundors on the floor of the cave. As I fell, I managed to thrust my revolver into the breast of my tunic without being noticed ; Saunders, I knew, always carried another pistol, so if we managed to escape, we should not be quite unarmed. After resting for about half an hour, tho Chinese placed us in tho centre of the party, and set off at a rapid pace down the mountain side for their village. We found the place in a turmoil of excitement. The news that two of the hated foreigners had been captured in the land of the Manchoos spread from mouth to mouth. A motley crowd gathered round to stare at us. Then we were removed under a strong guard to a small bamboo hnt into which wo were thrust, bound as we were, the sentinel, who was left at the door, taking not the

least notice of oar appeal to have our bonds removed. Presently another sentry came to relieve the first, and stood talking with him for a few minutes. From their conversation I learned that a meeting of the Boxers was called for the following day to decide our fate. I noticed that Sentry No. 2 carried himself with a jaunty air, unlike that of a Chinaman. Then the first sentinel left, and his successor busied himself collecting sticks

to make a fire. I lay abstractedly watching him. Presently he • drew from a pocket somewhere in his loose shirt a small box, from which he took what appeared to be a small white stick. I stoained my eyes, a sudden intense eagerness taking possession of me. Could it be ? Yes ! There was no doubt about it. It was a wax vesta! I watched him with breathless interest as he struck the match. He brought his right leg up, and drew the match along the under part of it with a sweeping motion.

"That feller ain't no Chinaman!" exclaimed Saunders, excitedly, for he, too, was watchi ng.

When a wax match is seen in one of the wildest provinces of China, it is in itself a curious circumstance, but when that match

■is struck iii the way a bushman would do it, it becomes a problem worthy of cai'eful consideration.

The man had looked up quickly at Saunder's exclamation, but again turned his attention to the fire. Presently he got up and commenced to walk up and down in front of the hut. As he passed the door, a piece of paper fluttered to the floor. Saunders grabbed the precious document. It was a scrawl in pencil on a dirty scrap of paper, and we read it by the light of the fire :

" Keep up your spirits. I am an Englishman, and will endeavour to help you " This cheered us wonderfully, and, exhausted by the exertions of the day, we shortly fell asleep. It was broad daylight when we awoke; our friend of the previous night was now replaced by a short, stout Celestial, who squatted in front of the hut beside the remains of the fire.

The solitazy street of the village was crowded with all sorts and conditions of Chinamen, all talking at once, gesticulating wildly, and clustering round the pagoda, where we were shortly to be exhibited.

Our guards entered the hut, conducted us to the pagoda, and thrust us through a jeering crowd on to a sort of platform at the back of the building. From this vantage ground we could see the whole edifice, packed with perspiring Chinamen, but we looked in vain for our disguised countryman. A number of richly-dressed Celestials ascended the platform, and immediately silence fell on the eager crowd below. Then one of the priests of the order got up, and commenced to speak. He spoke very rapidly, and I could scarcely understand

what he said, but his speech, which lasted for nearly an hour, seemed to be full of self-adulation and contempt for the foreigners ; others followed suit. As the speeches continued the multitude became more and more excited. Suddenly I felt a touch on my arm. I turned quickly, and saw the disguised Englishman at, my elbow. "Quick!" he said, "let me cut your bonds, and we will be off by the back entrance." The attention of the crowd was so completely centred on the speaker that we managed to slip off unnoticed through a door covered with a curtain. "Away to the hills !" exclaimed our new friend, " we will escape them yet." As we entered the forest there was a tremendous uproar in the pagoda ; our escape had been discovered. For several hours we pushed on, hearing the shouts of our pursuers in the distance. By night we had completely out-distanced them, and lay down to rest. Before doing so I expressed gratitude to our deliverer, and asked him how he came to be in a Chinese Lodge in disguise. " Well, gentlemen," he replied, " I am an attache of the British Embassy of Pekin. The chief learned that there was likely to be trouble with the Boxers, and sent me out to discover what I could. I was about to disappear from their midst when you come along. Voila tout /" We found Mr. Frank Graham, for such was our friend's name, excellent company. He informed us that Tom Sing, the leader of our bearers, was an officer of the Boxer's Lodge. This accounted for many circumstances which had puzzled me. The piece of rag in the bush, which had so evidently disturbed them, was, no doubt, a summons to some important function, and this explained their sudden flight. " And now, gentlemen," said Graham, "if you have no objection I will remove this sheepskin skull-cap and pigtail, which are very uncomfortable, and most unsuited to my dignity." As Graham was not expected back in

Pekin for some time, ho at once elected to join us in our botauising expedition, which we decided to continue. We had soon nothing of Tom Sing and the Boxers, but managed to engage fresh bearers. The country in which we now were was thickly wooded, and exceptionally rich in orchids and other plants, valuablo to tho botanist. The tree trunks and rocks wore covered with the gorgeous flowers of the nepenthe. This plant is a parasite. One day we were proceeding along a rough track, when suddenly Graham grew very excited. " Look, Ross !" he exclaimed, " what do you make of that light up there among tho trees ?" " Why !" I exclaimed, " I believe it is a dendrobium. If it is, it is a miracle. It has never been seen out of Borneo and Central America." On approaching we found that it was indeed this beautiful orchid. The lovely white blooms, which measure fully eighteen inches across, nearly covered the tree, and cast a radiance over all surrounding objects. We were in the heart of tho orchid land. All round us the calanthe and the jrfwla)nopsis flowered in great profusion, while at the tops of the very highest trees wo could see the beautiful cymhidiuin, glowing like a jewel in the Easter sky. We collected a number of specimens of these plants. That night, Graham asked permission to send one of the bearers to Vow Chow with a message to the British Consul acquainting him with his discoveries in the Lodge. I also wrote to Mr. Wilks, informing him of my non-success in my special mission, and also of our adventures. Although we had not heard of the Boxers for some time, we still kept a sharp lookout day and night, and were careful not to build large fires at night for fear of attracting attention from the passing bands of robbers with which the country is overrun. One night as we sat smoking I asked Graham how he came to be so intimately

acquainted with the Chinese language. "Well," he replied, "I have lived in China ever since I can remember, so it is not wonderful that I should have picked up their language. My father was connected with the Embassy at Pekin until he died. I was educated in a good school, where Chinese was taught, and picked up the language very quickly. 1 was always a lover of mystery, and when I became a clei'k in the British Ambassador's office I certainly had my share of it. When this trouble arose with the Boxers I was sent out, because I knew their language and customs so intimately. I reached Ninguta in the disguise' of an unfortunate Celestial, who had been thrashed by his master, and was thirsting for revenge on all foreignei'S. I was warmly welcomed by that rascal, Tom Sing, and I have no doubt that had I stopped with them, I should have been made their head man. I have studied all the great secret societies in China, and from my own experience among them, I should say that the Boxers were the most villainous of all, and rely on it we have not done with them yet by any means." Graham's words proved true. -The next night we camped near a stream, and stupidly neglected our usual precaution. We had a large fire blazing in the centre of a clearing. Saunders was teaching the coolies the art of tying up a plant into portable form, without damaging it. Graham .and I were sitting by the fire chatting, when the man on the look-out hurried into camp with the news that a large number of Chinamen were coming in our direction attracted, no doubt, by the glare of the fire. "An outpost of the Boxers !" exclaimed Graham. " Quick, .Ross ! get the bearers across the stream !" These bearers at any rate had no leanings towards the Boxers, for they exhibited every sign of fear, and picking up the plant orates quickly crossed the stream. We concealed ourselves carefully, and presently saw a shaved head appear through the undergrowth on the other side of the clearing. This was immediately followed

by the almost naked body of a Chinaman, who was joined by several others. The firelight glinted on their brutal faces, as they ran hither and thither round the fire in search of us.

Saunders raised his revolver, and covered

the rascal nearest to us, and was about to pull the trigger when a heavy hand fell upon his shoulder, and Graham whispered in his ear : " You blundering fool ! Would you have a hundred of them down on us ? When they discover us it will be time enough to fire." Saunders reluctantly lowered his weapon. Failing to find our hiding place they went back the way they came.

" They have gone for dogs !" exclaimed Graham. " Into the stream with you boys, and follow it up." Fortunately the stream was not deep, and we waded quickly up it under an overhanging network of branches. In a few minutes we heard the deep baying of bloodhounds, and we pushed on with redoubled speed until it grew fainter and still fainter, and at last died out altogether, but we did not yet dare to quit the friendly water. When we deemed it safe to land it was broad daylight, and we could just see a small village in front of us. We met several gangs of labourers going to their work in the fields. We looked rather an imposing procession as we entered the village. First came Graham and I, with our revolvers in our belts, followed by the coolies, bearing the results of our labours, with Saundei'S bringing up the rear. We chose this arrangement on account of the advantage it would give us if the inhabitants proved hostile ; and also because, like Artemus Ward, we wanted to make an impression on the villagers. The only difference was that Artemus did not go in fear of his life. We had proceeded about half-way up the street when we heard a " nasal " voice behind us exclaim : " Mornin', stranger !" We turned and perceived a tall sunburnt man, with a goatee beard, regarding us comically out of his twinkling little eyes. He was dressed, like ourselves, in canvas. " Good morning," I said. " I presume you are an American ?" " Yes, sir. Em a citizen of the Z7-nited States. I guess you'll be the party a slant, eyed cuss, called Tom Sing, was here enquiring for about an hour or so back. He wanted you mighty bad, he did." " Oh ! he has been looking for us, has he ?" I replied. "Yes. Couldn't find you anywhere, so he wanted to slump me instead. But I soon knocked that idyer out of his cranium. See here." And this strange person produced a pair

of enormous revolvers, and brandished them exultingly. "Excuse me," said Graham, "but it seems somewhat strange to mo to sco an American in Central Manchuria." "I believe you, sir," replied the Yankeo, "and I was more nor a little surprised wlhmi I focussed you in that there gate, though you ain't American. Hut I'm 11 botanist, sir, that's what I am. I travel all over this yearth lookin' for specimen ts. And you're another, ain't you, sir ?" " No," replied Graham, " but my friend here is." " Well, sir, that's lucky," said our new friend, turning to me. He immediately plunged into a technical conversation, in the course of which I discovered that he was n botanist of no ordinary merit His name, he informed me, was Ephrairn Walsh. I felt sti'ongly attracted to him, and begged him to join our party, which he at once consented to do. We purchased food at the village, and then pushed on, being anxious to put as much space between ourselves and the energetic Tom Sing as possible. Mr. Walsh was the most enthusiastic botauist I have ever known. At times he would disappear for hours at a stretch, and come staggering back under a load of plants of every description. Then would come a lively time for the coolies. We were now in the midst of an immense forest, through which the bearers had to cut a narrow track with their long double knives. At night we selected our camps most carefully, and were veiy particular to post sentinels. One day Graham and I were plodding along slowly in the rear of the coolies when we heard a shout of delight from Walsh, who was a little way in advance Presently he dashed through the undergrowth, bearing a huge orchid. " There !" he roared. " Wat jer think o' that ? There's several more up yonder. We can get a dozen or so easy." It was truly a splendid specimen. The flowers measured fully two feet in diameter,

and possessed a richness in colour that I have seldom seen equalled. " Can you put a handle on to it, Ross ?" he asked. "It is a gigantic Dendrobium Secundum" I answered. " Ah !" he said, winking at Graham, " yer Latin words stick me the worst kind. But I can admire a pretty flower for all that, Colonel." It was the one prize I had longed for to complete my collection, for I was more than ever satisfied that the flower which was the cause of our journey was merely one of a traveller's fancy. Our bearers were getting more discontented every day, so we determined to make for the nearest port, and break up our party. # * # * #

Arrived in London, Saunders and I reported ourselves to Mr. Wilks, who was delighted to see us safe and sound. He fully endorsed my opinion about the wonderful flower of the Boxer Medicine men, and when I showed him the result of my l'esearches was very pleased to see that the fool's errand on which I had stai'ted had turned out so profitably. I met Walsh, later, in Bond Street, he had just come from Borneo. We sat late that night talking of old times. Walsh said that just before he left Vow Chow, a regiment of Chinese soldiers had been sent to exterminate the Lodge at Ninguta. " And was that villain Tom Sing caught and punished ? " I asked. " Not much ! " he replied, " why the soldiers were all Boxers themselves !"