The World of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVIII, Issue 23, 4 December 1912, Page 71

The World of Fashion.

By

The Double Skirt. IN spite of the workmanlike simplicity of the models at present, the double skirt seems to be achieving an amount of success which shows that it will be one of the most important phases of fashion during the coming summer. Some times the upper skirt is considerably wider than the lower, and stand? out above it in a manner which is reminiscent of paniers. This is, however, the last relic of the panier as regards the walking costume, and it is left for the evening dress, with its soft lace and chiffon, to keep the panier for the present at least before our eyes. I should not be surprised if the advent of the panier will be responsible for a more substantial vogue of foulards, for these soft silks may be so easily and gracefuly draped. While these silks in conventional designs are always attractive, I am afraid that they will be replaced to a great degree by those with the quaint Jouy printings, because their designs and colours add to the artistic effect of these costumes. Undoubtedly, the panier will also revolutionise lingerie froek styles — even though they will not be very practical.

MARGUERITE.

Linen of a soft sweet pea shade of pink, rather than the vivid shade which used to be called “ rose-pink,” allied to dove-grey, is responsible for some of the most charming of the new costumes. The tone of the revers and cuffs of grey linen is repeated in the eoat lining of grey washing silk. The same idea of a revers is often reproduced with excellent effect on the double skirt, giving the upper part the appearance of having been folded back to reveal a grey lining. Sunshades with twelve instead of eight ribs have made an appearance this summer. These parasols are almost domeshaped, and consequently are less spread

than the conventional shape, making them more convenient for driving use, and particularly designed to wear with the small and tall hats of the day. The Lafayette callor is proveing a very formidable rival to the Robespierre, and is made in a variety of materials. It is particularly attractive when it is made of black taffetas with a white velvet neckband; naturally it should then be seen in alliance with a white dress, or else one of a delicate shade. Again, the vogue for wearing a coat of a contrasting colour to the skirt is becoming more pronounced, and although at first it was deemed to be a very economical idea, La Mode is insisting that there shall be a bond of union between them. For in-

stance, a smart dress had a white skirt showing a narrow blue stripe; the coat that accompanied it was of navy blue with a narrow white stripe. The hat was of white linen stitched with blue. Collars of Valenciennes Lace. To be provided with sufficient lace turn-down collars is no slight task nowadays, especially when practically every summer frock and blouse is finished with a polo collar of some kind. A particularly pretty one, which can easily be made at home, is that which is fashioned of two-inch wide Valenciennes lace. A pattern collars is first traced out of white paper. The lace is then sewn round the edge, pleated into the corners, and gored and sloped away where the shape of the neck demands it. Either two or three rows of lace may be used, depending upon the depth of the collar, the last row of lace round the neck being cut away so as to give the correct

contour. When finished, it merely requires to be fitted into a narrow band of lawn, and sewn into the dress or blouse.

Striped dresses with lace or lawn guimpes and no collars, long sleeves and short skirts, are being worn with plain cut-away coats of satin, erepe de ehine, or any such light material. The shoulders are generally covered with lace or

linger. le collars and revers, and the love of the large fiat hat is increasing. Girls are wearing flowers, but married women keep faithful to aigrettes. The simple dress in crepe de ehine, foulard, or chasmeuse, is being worn without a coat, but always there is the laee or lingerie collar on the shoulders. Now that this

Kind of dress is made with long, tight sleeves, it is very much mire appropriate for street wear, and far'less expensive in gloves. Every dress is draped, except the little crepon model, which has a short basque bodiee, and the plisse silk or mousseline one. and even with this one sometimes sees a lace tunie or eoat.