The World of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVIII, Issue 16, 16 October 1912, Page 69

The World of Fashion.

By

MARGUERITE.

The Scarf Panier. ff7~r S is now universally acknowledged, /I it ia the most skilful dressrH makers who employ the simplest means to achieve great ends. Paniers, or, rather, draperies, are now formed of scarves—it may he of lace, or it may be of a soft, diaphanous material. One scarf io arranged on either side of a dress; it is coiled and twisted in accordance with the fancy of the manipulator. The character of a pensionnaire dress can be completely changed by the assistance of these scarves, and as well-nigh any colour scheme is permissible, think of the rich harvest that one will be able to reap at the sales of odd lengths of chiffon that can be utilised for these draperies; neither must it be overlooked that with the pronounced feeling for sashes, ribbons should be carefully garnered. Shantung Costumes. Delightful iu my opinion for women who do not care for linen, and prefer a dressier coat and skirt, are those in Shantung. Expensive in the first instance, and rather quick losing its sheen, Shantung is yet a most durable material, and an attractive one to boot. Dark blue Shantung of an indigo persuasion is particularly nice, and grey Shantung is really a thing of beauty. To replace your serges, then, please give Shantung at least a trial. Even more popular than the coat and skirt is the one-piece bodice and skirt that you slip on quickly. Aye! popular with elder women as with girls, and, strange to say, equally becoming to both. There is a coquettish severity about these one-piece dresses. The bodices and skirts join, and you fasten them straight down the front with washable buttons, whether of pearl or buttons

covered with the same material as the frock. Some of the skirts show an inclination to buttoning straight across, from hip to ankle. They are worn really very short, at any rate by girls, and should show the neatest of shoes and stockings, the former with coloured drill uppers. All these frocks are tub frocks, so if the material is likely to shrink, make allowance for this in the first instance. Dance Frocks. About dance frocks I must say a word. As I am aU for washable materials, I may urge that even dance frocks should be made of them. You can get white washable net and satin; and there is chiffon, which we know, if washed very carefully, will look like new again. A white chiffon skirt is lovely over one of fine blonde that is twice interlaced below the knees with blue ribbons and pink rosebuds. A chaperon might wear, if she liked, a gown of grey satin and chiffon with yellow filet lace. The fashionable silhouette is an allimportant matter. If a girl discards corsets, she wilt do well, and she need not think that she will look dowdy by «o doing. The smart Parisienne, if she be jeune tille, or even if she be nearing middle age, has discarded corsets, to a girl and to a woman, and boasts of the fact. The easiest lines are the most approved, and you, if you wish, may be rather small at the shoulders, and rather big below the waist. The novelty in the silhouette lies in the greater increase of materials that drape the skirt, which is softer and fuller than last year. The Pierrette Ruffle. Scarves and neck fitments of all kinds will be (Seen in great variety this summer. Already there are scarves of ninon, handpainted scarves of silk hand-embroidered,

and scarves of satin or ninon gauged and edged with feather trimming. There are also large flat round collars of Lancer feathers in two colours—these are most attractive—and trim collarettes and riHHes of ostrich feathers and taffetas. A pretty name has been provided for a soft, fluffy little tulle ruffle, with dainty rosettes of narrow velvet ribbon, and flat, small posies of satin. It is called the “'Pierrette.” The reason for such a plethora of attractive neckwear is not far to seek. The neglige collar, and nocollar corsage, is attractive until one assumes a hat and wrap. Then there is a horrid hiatus between the hat and wrap. The only remedy is to invest in a collarette or ruffle. This done, the result is charming, for the woman who docs not look well iu a feathery or airy tulle

ruffle is rare, and one prefers to think she does not exist. The present mode requires that the neckwear should match the hat, and the girl with clever fingers will essay the ribbon ruffle. There i.s a pretty ribbon which is a novelty of thio season. It has a picot edge, and is particularly good for this purpose. Loose, picturesque wraps are being worn for ceremonious or ‘“dress” occasions. They bear an unmistakable likeness to the burnous model which has intrigued tH for so long. They differ, however, in this, that the folds under the arms are caught up, and graceful little erossway folds result. Quite the latest whim is to have a wrap of shot charmeuse lined with fine cloth! The cloth is so delicately fine and souplo that it resembles satin. Nevertheless it is cloth. Gay-coloured .linings appear to bo well liked, and clear, jewel-bright colours—for example, malachite green —are seen, and justify their choice. Beautiful fabrics and much hand-em-broidery are characteristics of the new toilettes, which, when not exaggerated in style, are truly elegant, as our grandmothers used to say. The possessors of scraps of handembroidered muslin will do well to fashion them into frilled collars, dainty guimpes, or even to cover a hut. Delightful little coats for the email girl, to be worn over simple little white frocks, could aleo be made out of the larger pieces, and to look their best these coats should have frills on th'.» collar and cuffs in the Kata Greenaway manner.

This dress is of white charmeuse, with’ a tunic effect of dull gold net thread worked on white and edged with a fringe of dull gold. A wonderful contrast is secured- by fashioning the upper part of the bodice of white chiffon embroidered in tiny gold beads and bugles acting as o deep transparency, and the lower park worked on to the white in a scalloped design, is made of line black net and gold thread. Around the waist is rich Royal blue and gold gauze, which falls with a long end at the right side of the front to the edge of the tunic, and is embroidered at the bottom with large coloured beads, and held at the waist with a very quaint cameo buckle.