Fashion Notes from Paris.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVII, Issue 4, 24 January 1912, Page 70

Fashion Notes from Paris.

(By Mme.

Aimee May.)

PART'S, November, 1911

Seldom has fashion appeared more attractive than this season, and there is such endless variety, that it is a foolish woman who fails to be becomingly attired.

The rivalry that Is apparent between Empire and Directoire styles on one side, and the Winterhalter vogue on the other, is very' interesting to watch. It is said that after receiving several rebuffs, the short-waisted fashions of the Empire day's have recovered their equilibrium, and are likely to become firmly estab-

lished in our mid.-t . There is nothing surprising in this victory; few women can stand the somewhat trying styles of the fifties, and though Winterhalter’s portraits are ‘exquisite, it must be left to those who are “perfect in form, and fair of face” to dare to adopt these modes. Many of the salient features of the Directoire period, the large drooping .collars, the sharply pointer! revers, the moderately short waists of the end of the eighteenth century are appreciated. There are divers possibilities of a smart expression among the vogues culled from the years that preceded the reign of Napoleon the Great. Grafted upon toilettes of the Empire, in a somewhat singular and unexpected manner, are many hints of ecclesiasticism. We are asked to try the effect of the Franciscan ropegirdle made of knotted strands of satin covered cord. There is only the slightest trace of austerity in waist wear of this description, particularly when it is made of shimmering silver ropes handsomely tasselled.

women seem very slow to learn, and one concerning xvhich they might get some very useful hints from their sisters in La Ville Eumiere. Every woman is naturally and laudably' anxious to look well dressed, but she has not yet realised,

There is, however, one important lesson in matter of dress, which some

as French women in every class seem to do instinctively, the supreme importance of suitability. For a gown to look really well, it must not only be'carefully thought out, so that it suits the figure, the hair, the complexion, and —low be it spoken—the age of the wearer, but ft must also be entirely- and unquestionably suitable to the occasions on which it is worn. No matter what this may mean, changing one’s gowns when one is enjoying a Holiday, or away for a week-end, at home, or abroad, three or four times a day, eleven oftener, the change should be made. Nothing is worse for any kind of gown than to wear it continually for days on end; it loses its shape, and gets very quickly out of condition, for gowns need an occasional rest, just as human being.*, do, and, apart from the delightful consciousness which will spread through your being, at the thought that your are looking your, very- il-est because you are part of the picture* and in harmony with your surroundings, you will also enjoy the pleasant reflection that your are economising, so far as your wardrobe is concerned.

For smart afternoon wear, the favourite thing will be the faintly striped cloth skirt. There arc attractive striped effects in all the modish woollens, broadcloths, serges, zibelines, etc., and there are lovely striped velvet and silks and chiffons, but many of them seem likely to be used as trimmings, rather than as frock materials. There are some extremely smart 3-piece and 2-piece tailored models. A black uroadeloth suit striped in hair lines of royal blue, and made up with touches of royal blue bengaline for the trimming scheme, was one of the 'best looking three-piece suits I have seen for some time. Drapery plays an important role in this season’s models, and these must be made in the beautiful fabrics that can be draped. The materials which lend themselves successfully to draping are drap souple, velours chiffon, and cashmere. Our sketch on this page represents one of tlie latest draped afternoon gown models, as seen in Faris. This very distinguished toilette is carried out in mahogany- coloured drap sonple. Note the curiously effective over-skirt, which is arranged to perfection, the long, single pointed train, and the corsage, with its lower half draped on somewhat, severe lines, right across the bust. The upperpart of the bodice is in mastic coloured liberty satin, adorned with brown and silver embroideries, while a wide band in mahogany velvet running down the front completes the colour scheme.

The short tunic of lace Is a fashion which has been introduced by the leading Paris couturieres, and which will die hard. It is so becoming, so pretty, so graceful, besides being suitable to the average woman —an advantage which is not characteristic of all the fashions of the present day. The most original of the very newest specimens are those which are very short in front, lengthening at the back. Otlrers show a cuirass apron slashed at each side. The most richness of finish sufficient to charm the heart of the most fastidious; It is one noticeable of these is the Egyptian cuirass, with its Oriental embroideries and ing gowns, and well deserves the popular favour afforded to it.