Rival Millinery Modes.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLV, Issue 19, 10 May 1911, Page 69

Rival Millinery Modes.

ALL SORTS AND CONDITIONS OF HATS FOR WINTER WEAR.

The hat* for the winter are most varied in line, shape ami mater ml. In they are drvkted in two erne is little ami high, and the other re low and big—but all are alike in being lovely in material and colouring. The little toque framing the face closely is ntade high, with puff* of velvet or with drooping Lancer plumes, and the brims are made to turn up flatly aga<nsi the crowns, or there are no brims at all. The small toque with the appearance of extreme height is not generally becoming. It should rarely be worn by tail women, and if the brim is made to flare back a little from the face it is much more becoming than that of the elcwe straight edge with no softening line round the face. Some of the draped crowns have a tendency to run up sharply at lire back and slope off from the front and sides, the little brim being low on one side wnil turned up on the other. The trimming in all cases towers still higher than the drapery of the erown. The trimming usually consists of Lancer plumes, leather mounts, fancy feathers, winge. or stiff upstanding brush aigrettes. FUR AND VELVET. Sometimes the draped erown is caught into a band of fur. which frames the coiffure smoothly. The crown of the velvet, sloping upward to a considerable height at the back, is finished in front or at the side with a metallic buckle. Feme of the little hats made entirely of fur are not quite so high as the draped velvet designs. The narrow drooping brims frame the.face closely, and the hat itself is on the lines of the eloche. The short pile furs, such as ermine, seal, mole. etc., are used for the fur toques, with trimmings in braided cord of gold or silver. A smart little cloche toque of seal I as the slightly drooping brim shaped n a decided point in the front, and a linh> or ermine softens the brim underneath. A cluster of Parma violets droops light y on to the coiffure at each side with pretty effect. A necklet and pillow muff in th? same style accompanies this little topic. BLACK SATIN AND IRISH LACE, For the large flat hat black satin and black velvet lining is being much exploited this autumn. The shape itself varies a good deal in line and detail. Sometimes the brim is fluted all the way round from a peak in the front, in other cases the brim rolls back a little at the side and front, and the brim turning up slightly at the edges all the way round is another favourite shape. The crown is low in dome shape, covered smoothy with the satin. The trimmings after the ci aster- of Lancer plumes and the sweeping aigrettes ar? mostly in bow effects. These bews to be successful, of course require the artist’s hand. The French milliners are experts in tire art of bow making, and the piquant, simplicity of some of the hats from Paris owe their cached entirely to the French-made bows. The loops an 1 the puffs seem to have just the rijht twist, and tiie whole effect of the ribbontrimmed picture hat is entirety satisfactory. One hat of this type, made in black satin lined with black velvet, had for its

«4e trimming a huge skilfully made bow of black satin. posetl directly >n front, ot the hat and covering the sides of ths dome shaped brim. Irish laee is used with results on back hat- of the picturesque order. The lace, in rosette form centred with touches of black velvet, or in bow effects outlined with black velvet or satin, is used across the irons of the hat, and sometimes it forms the brnu.