The World of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLV, Issue 18, 3 May 1911, Page 69

The World of Fashion.

By

MARGUERITE.

STT RE the atriped materials of toj I day about to become as eensaJ 1 tional as the jupe culotte itself 1 It Is a question one cannot help asking oneself, for it seems as though fashion is looking at everything through magnifying glasses, and the stripes on the new fabrics are assuming gargantuan and exaggerated proportions, such as beat all previous records.

At Auteuil, where people pay far more attention to the rivalry of mannequins than they do the rivalry of jockeys, there appeared a satin in a dark blue-and-white stripe, which was amply large enough for the wallpaper of a good-sized

Pale pastel blue faced cloth, piped with black silk and trimmed with oxidised braid.

room, Thia represented one of the harem or pasha toilettea, but such striped materials will probably appear in alliance with the ordinary gown as well. NEAT TAILOR-MADE. In themselves, apart from exaggeration, stripes are always charming, and the striped silk and satin tailor-mades of to-day are very fresh and pretty, both in blue and wli'te, or in black, with a faint white line running through. We shall see plenty of these during the months of May and June, the square, straight skirt having a wide band at the hem on which the lines are introduced horizontally instead of perpendicularly. In serge, they are equally useful and attractive, and every woman who has many gowns should include a little striped tailor-made in her wardrobe, many of these being trimmed with a goodly quantity of little round gunmetal buttons for the black and white, or dull gold buttons for the blue and white, while sets of tiny bean-shaped satin buttons represent another expedient equally dear to the heart of the tailor. A REVIVAL. There is, besides, a great feeling this year for perfectly plain tailored garments of mannish cut for morning or country wear, the kind of tailor-mades, in fact, which were high in favour fifteen or twenty years ago. The full-length covert coat as plain as a man’s overcoat has been revived this year, and is being eagerly welcomed. On a bright day the long covert coat with a neat smart toque is an alliance which can hardly be surpassed, and a woman with a slight, lissom figure would look supremely at her best in such a garment. It should have no additional decoration whatever, its absolute simplicity constituting its chief charm. WIGWAM STYLES. v As a matter of fact, these simple plain garments stand out in curious contrast to the exaggerations of the already fully discussed jupe culotte. One of these, which was seen at the races, had a kind of tight gaiter band fitting to the calf of the leg. To this was likewise added a flat leather fringe, very suggestive of wigwams and savage tribes. The fringe set flat round the ankle spreading out upon the suede kid shoe. FASHIONS IN FOOTGEAR. A very conspicuous feature of fashion just now is Uiis soft suede shoe with its high, square heel. It goes without saying that with a short frock and the invention of the harem skirt, the bootmaker would not be behindhand in introducing some novelty of his own which would likewise call for special attention. The square heel is the latest craze, and might he ranked among the eccentricities of the moment, while in addition to its use in connection with the suede walking shoe, it also appears with dull silver or gold shoes as well, its height being that of the ordinary Louis XV. heel.

KNIFE-PLEATED SKIRTS. In spite of modified narrowness and the absolute straightness of so many of the new skirt, there are others which come very near the ideal of many years ago. These are fashioned with close knife pleats, lending ample width all round and making flowing lines as well, while in some cases there are three rows of braid carried round the hem, an expedient which recalls the style of the early nineties, and is very suitable for the woman who has passed her first youth. All the jackets are simple and quite short, in contrast to the “overcoats” mentioned above; while several boleros have likewise been launched. The feeling is strongest in favour of the little coat which covers the hips with the

roundest of lines and effect*. The boler* will, however, gain immensely in favour as the season advances, and already aoiM fascinating little cucumber green and aaure-blue boleroe have bees designed to wear with frocks either ot pure white or in silk voile of the same shade. There are endless niches which the bolero can fill when once it has established itself, and it is hardly likely to disappear again from the scheme of attire for some time to come. THE PIERROT HAT. Another marked feature of fashion is the success of the Pierrot hat. To some minds it suggests King Carnival more than anything else, but milliners have found a way to make it very becoming and very elegant. In fine bleached straw, with the narrowest upstanding brim of black silk, a bunch of waving wheatears —half white and half black—is placed on the left side, the hat providing a delightful harmony with the new striped black-and-white tailor-made costume. A fancy is besides being shown for handsome white tussore coats and skirts, richly embroidered in a willow-pattern design in dark blue. These quaint designs are wonderfully fashionable just now. the little eoat having embroidered revers and cuffs, with a band of stitchery running up the arm to the elbow, while the same trimming is introduced at the bottom of the tabliers both front and back. FOR THE MOTORIST. Curious little old rose and pale willow green suede caps have been evolved for the use of the motorist this season. These are cut with sloping sides and flattened a little at the top, while a large pointed envelope flap is folded back against the cap, with a piped edging of black patent leather, and a patent leather rosette.