The World of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVI, Issue 10, 8 March 1911, Page 69

The World of Fashion.

By

MARGUERITE.

Autumn Millinery.

/T"\ ILLINERY modes are always 111 among the fashions first to deI 1 clare themselves in a new seaJ son, and the autumn novelties in hats may now be studied. Autumn, without doubt, will be the time of the small hat. Hats are rapidly becoming smaller, and the advance modes already on view are chiefly of the toque Order. The one exception to the rule ot the small hat is the picture hat of Cavalier or Romney Order, massed with ostrich plumes. These alone retain their inches. THE HIGH CROWN. What has been sacrificed in brim, however, has been made up in crown, and the autumn hats and toques rejoice in higher crowns than have been seen for many seasons. A picturesque and becoming type for the new toque is that of Stretched satin very high in the crown, find very small of brim, the latter being bf the “Cloche” order, and prettily framing the hair. These toques are chiefly trimmed with richly coloured mounts or shaded lancer plumes. In some cases, however, a big bow of the butterfly order of satin is preferred. THE DEEP UP TURNED BRIM. Another innovation in toques is the deep brim placed very close to the crown and lifted entirely off the face all round. This deep brim, which has something of the effect of a Russian head-dress, is of Velvet or stitched satin, and is sometimes Cut in curious shapes. A drooping lancer plume placed at the back of the toque, Slightly to the left, is the invariable trimming. The deep velvet brim almost {hides the high puffed crown at the front, but at the sides, where the velvet band Is scooped out, the puffs of the crown rise prettily above the band-like brim. The beef-eater hat, which has enjoyed so many revivals, is again making a bid lor favour in black satin and velvet.

Requires very little fulness, and this is just the right shape for that material. These are, of course, the hats of to-mor-row, and for the moment flowers, toile de jouy, lacy crinolines, and Tagels still adorn the heads of women. Flowers are not quite so much in evidence as they were earlier in the season, and a popular trimming just now is of loops of silk or satin ribbon, covered with tulle. J* Autumn Colourings. Blue —a rich deep blue—and Mandarin red is to be one of the popular colour combinations of the autumn, and is illus-

trated in gowns as well as hate. In the case of the latter the red frequently appears in the form of a veiling over blue ribbon. It is a curious colour blend, but one that is not unbecoming. Light mole and wood-green is another combination of colours carried out with much success in coats and skirts for the autumn. Orange and black is also a favourite blend, especially in evening toilettes, A fashion that has had its day—and a very brief day, it was—is the black Batin Heart, which is hardly ever worn now by women with any pretensions to smart dressing. The “hobble” skirt, too, is as dead as fhe proverbial door nail, and the neyv skirts are all of the pleated order, though the back and front panels are generally plain. Tailored Suits in Velvet. Some of the newest tailored coats and skirts are in velvet, trimmed with heavy silk braid. The coats, with panel back and long revers opening to the waist-line, are shorter than the designs we have been Accustomed to lately. The sleeves arc long and smooth-fitting to the wrists, with just a narrow line of the braid used as a finish. The skirts, too; are very plain. Lines of the braid run round the hems and along the gored seams, and sometimes a small pattern in braid appears on the front panel above the hem. The new tailored suits in velvet are indeed simple in line and trimming scheme, the richness of the material being considered sufficient. Any ornamentation would perhaps spoil the handsome effect. Moire, in the same colouring as the velvet, is used to line the coats. * The Care of the Hair. SOME SUGGESTED STYLES FOR DIFFERENT TYPES OF CHILDREN. There is ample diversion in the coiffure arrangements meted out to the little girls of the generation; far more than was permitted to those who were in the nurSery when the only choice lay between two plaits, a round comb, which kept the waved tresses or the barley-sugar curls pressed backwards from the brow, and the parted locks held in their place by a fillet of ribbon, and disposed of in curls or “waves.” Once having satisfied herself that her choice in designs suited her daughter, or was suitable for her, the mother of long past days adhered to that design, until the time came for the hair to be “done up.” Then an adult device was agreed upon for permanent use. TO PRESERVE THE HAIR. Such faithfulness to a single idea, does not suit the modern mother for her own coiffure arrangement, nor does she expect nor desire her little girls to have their hair dressed, year in year but, after a stereotyped pattern. To change the mode in which it is worn from time to time is good for the hair. Even a bow continually tied in one place may cause the locks beneath it to become thin, just as a parting constantly made in one position tends to broaden.

in bUv'k velvet, with pAnel pf Jet embroidery. Such ft gowfl depends mainly on Mlt lot ite real success. But there is no doubt that the Princess Js hourly gaining In popularity, both for day and evening wear.

The Value of Trifles in Dress. CRITICS OF THE BRITISH SHOPPING WEEK. ENGLAND “ BEHIND THE TIMES.” LONDON, Jan. 20. Now that the plan far an AU-British Shopping Week has been fairly discussed by a special council of shopkeepers and manufacturers, objections are being voiced by many of the giants of dress-

The double overskirt is of ninon edged with beaded fringe, corsage of satin, outlined with pearl embroidery. making, millinery and drapery who declare that the scheme is altogether impossible. All the greater credit will, of course, be done to 'those who manage to stick to their guns for a short week, and refuse to show or sell anything not strictly British, but the state into which affairs in the dress-world have come is dearly shown by no less a person than Sir J. Prichard Jones, of Dickens and Jones, who stat, d a meeting of the Drapers’ Chamber of Trade this week, that his

firm cannot fall in with the plan for a British Shopping Week because British manufacturers cannot produce the class of goods that are required for West End trade, and also acknowledging at the Baine time that foreigners can produce .finer quality materials, etc., at a cheaper iprice than the same stuff supplied in this country. Another draper, in agreeing with the last contention, went further and said that British manufacturers are, compared with the French, so behind the times that they have not the necessary machinery for turning out fine goods, lie also contended that trade cannot be maintained on British goods only. AH of which is very sad if true; but the scheme is being taken up with such genuine enthusiasm by other firms that it is hoped to prove it a success in spite of gloomy prognostications and faintheartedness. Fashion is still at a standstill as far as any radical change from the style of the last few months is concerned. Large fine straw hats are already being shown, so that spring, at least in the realm of dress, is held to be within hail. Some of these shapes are in very bright colours, cerise and magenta being so far prime favourites. Some of the straws, black

on top, have some vivid colour underneath the brim, or vice versa. For these there is to be the same simplicity of trimming that has reigned for some time past. Silver roses, with the inside petals tinted a delicate shade of pale green, are very popular, and bunches of scented artificial violets share their fame. It is a pity that the value of trifles with regard to dress is so often forgotten. A good dressmaker can do much in the way of turning one out to look well gowned and up-to-date, but the injudicious use of certain jewellery, not suitable to the material or colour of the dress worn, of frilling, gloves, belts, even hat pins, can not only lessen, but absolutely ruin the smart effect of a toilette. IMPORTANT TRIFLES. Hat pins are common offenders since a hat is a very important item, and it is well to remember that a white-headed hat-pin, one studded with paste, even a cheap amethyst one, can completely spoil the distinction and sombre richness of a black velvet hat. The sattne rule applies to any dark-coloured headgear, so that, in their way, hat pins are just as important as hats. Frilling, though it is just now not nearly so popular as it was last year, gives a soft and delicate finish often to an otherwise hard outline against the neck, but there are people whom frilling does not at all become, and whose gown at once becomes commonplace when finished so. She of the very short neck must beware of its wiles more than any. The writer has seen —and her readers will conjure up many instances—a pretty and graceful frock wholly robbed of its grace by the belt worn. One such I saw this week. It was of clinging black crepe de chine, very rich and picturesque, and yet, cut in half as it was by a narrow straight belt on a large wearer, it looked only a travesty of a beautiful dress, and its dignity was completely wasted. A few people can afford to draw attention to their belt, but not all, and the ones who can't afford to do so are wise in wearing a belt of the same colour as their costume. Small waists are not by any means always to be admired, but if the hips are a little wide, as in these days of athletics they are apt to be, it is inartistic to concentrate the beholder’s attention of them by an inappropriate Ix-lt. In this respect, of course, summer and winter dresses differ, as one can often take liberties with a soft light material that are out of place on one of heavier and more costly texture. A celebrated woman writer, who is something of a satirist, made one of her women characters say, in a recent book: “ Your white gloves and your teeth are the two most important things in giving away prizes at horse parades and that eort of thing,” a, statement that would not bear too much'investigation, perhaps, hut that contains a grain of truth. As character is undoubtedly expressed in the hands, so, it must. be taken; is it 'expressed in the dress of the hands.

Jewellery, of course, adds the Anal note . individuality and distinction, or otherwise, to a feminine toilette. So many people will plaster themeelves with trinkets- and jewels as if., the finest effect were’ produced by the number displayed. The result is a very triumph of vulgarity could they but realise it. Where a few appropriately chosen jewels might have drawn admiring eyes to their loveliness, a conglomeration is in every way inartistic. - • The woman of few jewels may, any day, .with an unimpeachable taste in dress, successfully rival tha possessor of diamonds worth thousands of pounds.