The Hat of the Day.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVI, Issue 1, 4 January 1911, Page 62

The Hat of the Day.

THE FAC E IT ADORNS AND THE ONH IT DOES NOT. A AVIATION TOILETTES. ':<ti :t LONDON, November IL - M hetlier we will or whether we won’t, an’ we wish to be in the fashion, we must still shroud our heads, be they ever so eharming. It is strange how this peculiar idea has evolved from the ungraceful no ear toque of twelve months ago. After that swathed abomination, we had “ Moujiks” —dominated still by the idea of wrapping our heads round, towel fashion. Then we made our picture hats copy the style of their smaller sisters, and arrange themselves in such weird style that, from the back, we appeared to have no neck, ears or back hair. Next we tilted, the hat up a little, if a hat, or down a. little, if a toque, and added a frill of lace so that our ears and hair might still be hidden. Now we have come to a chimney pot mode that is sported on heads young and old, large and small, and that should enable us to keep bright our reputation for hideous headgear. Its brim is stiff, and turns down, uncompromisingly, and it is only fair to the fashion to say that, on a hatstand, this newest shape looks stylish and businesslike. Moreover there are certain 'heads and faces and figures that it will suit.

But those are few in number. Stout women, thin women, and even “flappers” are donning the “ Cloche,” regardless whether it becomes them or. not, and it is an easy matter, therefore, during a walk along the principal West End streets, to pick and choose the few! who can safely wear a chimney pot bat. The tall, fair woman with generous coils of sunny hair might wear a black shape to advantage; the short slim woman also, and the ‘’flapper,” perhaps, better than either, because her hanging hair or girlish plait seems to soften the demure outline of the turn down brim.

’The woman of spirituelle countenance also would look well in one of these confections, since she can afford a nun-like severity of head such as will be the result of showing no front curls or waves of hair.

The dark, vivacious woman, also, because her sprightliness of expression would probably be only enhanced by a prim hat. But there the list ends.

Tlie woman who pads her hair in front; she of a round face and buxom figure; a downrightly plain woman; one of thin face —for all these the “Cloche” is quite out of the question. It is well for all to remember that a brim that as'closely hugs the face, however pretty, as does a hat of this latest fashion, tends to exaggerate the features. Therefore noses, mouths, ears and cheeks that will not stand the test had best not be put to it. A New Feather. Heron plumage is a favourite embellishment for millinery just now, and so fir mainly adorns toques of black velvet. Fur’s Popularity. Every day makes it more apparent that fur is to be one of the most frequently, employed dress trimmings this seas,on. It is on every dress in more or less, quantities, and from the almost invisible shaggy line that some dressmakers are using to cover the hem-stitching of the tunics, to the broad band, there is always the fur note somewhere. On low bodices it outlines the opening; on the transparent muslin sleeves finishing below tlie elbow it appears above the final hem; on the brocaded and beaded evening dresses it is seen in a narrow band at the feet. Air Dainties. Aviation costumes are of interest even to those who do not think of aviation for themselves. Mlle. Dutrieu, on; of tlie most famous and intrepid of airwomen, during her flights at Burton-on-Trent wore a dress closely resembling a French, cycling costume. The divided skirt vcis plain and neat; and had about it nothing of the Turkish trouser shape which is preferred by most French airwomen. Some interesting rules concerning clothes for the air appeared ill the “ Times ” last week.

“Aeronauts have, above all things, tn guard against cold; and that is wiry so much blanket cloth is worn for thia sport. A woollen cap has always to ba

fe. tinder whatever form of headgear the *irwc:*ian eonaidera mod becoming Und practical. A modified form of motor bonnet, almost like a baby’s Dutch cap, is popular; but to far no airwoman ascnu to have adopted the safety helmet which is now worn by a good many airmen. Those women whose ambit! m it is to fly as passengers should be reminded that any kind of veil or scarf—in a word, anything that may “catch”—may add to their danger at a critical moment.”

Renovating Black Lace and Net. d ilere is a. sc mewhat strange method for renovating a black lace shawl that has turned brown. I am assure! that it is good. An old black kid glove should be boiled and the lace spread on a board and sponged with the liquid. The lace is left to dry on the board, and the colour will •be found to be quite restored. To renovate net dissolve enough soap in boiling water to make a la ‘.her. and when it is merely warm add a tew drops of ammonia and put your net into the liquid. Leave it for ten minutes. Souse it up and down in the suds a,rd squeeze it, but neither wring nor rub it. Rinse it ■in several waters when clean, and then stiffen it in fairly hot-water starch, as, being thin, net aoes not take the stiffening very well. Dry, and then damp it an! iron it on ’the wrong side, taking care that you iron it to the width, for net has .'. way of drawing to tie length and becoming stringy; and be sure, too, to keep the edges straight during the. ironing process.

Black net requires well bruslnng before 'washing, and the colour may be restored with very strong tea. in whicii a suspicion of gum arabic has been dissolved, to give it a little stiffness. Iron it on the wrong side with strips of paper between the net and flat-iron. ® Gloves.

One of the most interesting items this month is that the fan gloves which were worn twenty years ago, wrinkled all the way up the arm over the sleeve, arc said to be coming back again to favour. There is no question as to the economy of this move on the part of fashion. Ihe glove in question will take the place to a certain extent of the white kid gloves, which were worn ad infinitum, and as it does not, of course, soil nearly so quickly as the latter, it will be welcome cn that contention alone. “Perfectly Dressed."

“Kitty stood on the steps of the porehand pulled on a pair of long white kid gloves with great deliberation. Her hat measured three and a half feet round, and the hem of her skirt somewhere about eighteen inches; her waist was well between her shoulder-blades, and lying on a chair in the porch was her muff, into which you might have put the chair. . . . She

‘had the consciousness which religion is powerless to bestow,’ of being perfectly dressed.” —From “Kitty goes to Brooklands” (Carrey).