Fashionland.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLV, Issue 16, 19 October 1910, Page 69

Fashionland.

LONDON, -August 26. Shops deserted, save for Americans, counters crowded with end-of-season goods, windows with endless rows of hats at the same price, a few autumn goods-— such are London shops just now, each of them a silent advertisement of the fact that the world in general is at the seaside, on the moors, or disporting itself far from the madding crowd of shops. There is an atmosphere of laxity in August ami early September that communicates itself to shops as it does to newspapers and amusements—a rather weary inclination to "till in with anything” in this "off” time. One feature of millinery of the day cannot be overlooked, however—whatever else they use as trimming, milliners don’t seem to be able to think beyond wing', and the shop windows of an up-to-date

modiste very closely resemble rows upon rows of fowls roosting on perches'; every hat. no matter what its shape and size, has a wing somewhere upon it. or etaster- of 'feathers, tips, or marabout. Quite half the models have huge wings such as I described a few weeks back, laid flatly

across the front, and these are both serviceable and emart-looking. Toques, of most fantastic shapes, are just as fashionable now as large hats, and these, also, if not actually made of plumage of some kind, are trimmed with it. It is difficult to describe the shapes of the newest toques, for they are moulded apparently without rhyme or reason. Certain it is that one might justifiably wear stiffened headgear—for they are stiff—of any shape, and yet be in the fashion. Some are like bos irons, others have two distinct crowns, some have double rows of narrow lace, which hang down over the hair, nightcap style, but all have a tendency to stand up stiffly off the face like the helmet that used to be worn by the Royal Marine Right Infantry in the Crimea, and is still worn. I fancy, by some German regiments. Many of the large hats have the crowns and half the brims covered with soft satin or silk, and a point to be noticed is that there is no overloading of trimming. Sometimes the hat possesses one immense grenadier plume, with a group of smaller ones arranged at the base. These are. perhaps, the most popular in black, for the black hat this autumn will certainly be extraordinarily in evidence, as fashion decrees that it may be worn with any kind of gown. Shaded feathers and those of the striped variety are in vogue, and a combination of colour is the brilliant blue feather with the black hat. that is especially becoming to brunettes. There is every sign that blaek and blue will be a favourite combination this autumn, as evening dresses, house gowns, and even feather boas, as well as hats, are being made by large firms of these two colours blended. Black velvet hats will be much in vogue this season, for the furore for black velvet has reached a positive craze. Sometimes the brims are of gathered chiffon with a full velvet crown. while the hat may be draped with a white lace veil that falls in cascades at the back. Americans, it is noticed, always wear veils, often two, one thick and worn like a motor veil, the other thin and spotted, over the face. There is, so far, no sign that millinery will be anything but gigantic—when it is not very small—and some of the new felt models measure SO inches round! Scarves go out of date reluctantly, and the latest phase is exceedingly hideous in that it allows them to be made of lumpy plush and edged with marabout—an idea that is never likely to become popular with the woman who likes to look trim and well-groomed, as such a scarf cannot help but have an amateurish atmosphere about it. Buttons of suede and buttonholes edged with suede are dainty additions to coat and skirt-. From the “Shoe Manufacturers' Monthly" comes the following note:—"The men who know' say that the pump shoe and the low-cut ankle tie, with and without strap, will be the feature in women's goods for next spring. Nothing looks smarter and neater on a wellturned ankle.” • .Very few people will be found, I fancy, to agree with “the men who know” on this matter of pump shoes with ankle

ties, and “neat” is an adjective that serves only to describe their effect when quite new. A good many women* in the West End were wearing them some weeks ago. and they looked anything but neat and smart for street wear, and had not t&e effect which women naturally appreciate of making the feet look small. Wash coloured stockings before wearing them, and to set the colour add strong salt water to the boiling water that is employed for the purpose of washing. Some dyes are not good for a sensitive skin. It is said that silk stockings last much longer if they are washed before being worn. A Woman Fireman. A presentation consisting of a beautiful silver stand of roses, was made on Wednesday evening to Miss D. Lawrence Smith, at Hurstpierpoint, near Hassocks, for the great pluck she showed recently at a farm fire, when she went off with the Hurst Fire Brigade, and worked magnificently with them for 12 hours. Plucky Eady Climber. A young American lady. Miss Maris Stoll, has. according to the "Temps,” accomplished what is regarded by Alpinists as one of the most difficult climbing exploits ever attempted.

¥ Accompanied by _» guide. Miss St MI made a night ascent of the Winklerturm (8,185 ft. in South Tyrol, and _ after reaching the summit passed the rest of the night in scaling two neighbouring peaks. The climbers arrived at the top of the Winklerturm, which is reached by a succession of rocky minarets at sharp angles, at one o'clock. Their lamp was soon visible to the watchers below. It is said that the guide received £ 1.000 as payment for making the ascent.