The World of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLIV, Issue 20, 18 May 1910, Page 73

The World of Fashion.

By

MARGUERITE.

The Vogue for Velveteen. MONG those vagaries of fashion f | for which it is difficult, if not X impossible, to account must certainly be reckoned the present remarkable vogue for velveteen, but although the mode may have no special raison d’etre, there can be no doubt that it has come to stay. For morning wear, coat and skirt costumes in black velveteen are in universal request, and it must be confessed that they are proving themselves also universally becoming, made in simple styles, with quite short walking skirts, and semi-fitting eoats of medium length, trimmed only with black silk braid am) jet buttons.

Light in weight and of a soft and silken texture, the new velveteens are popular in colours as well as in black, partly, no doubt, because they have been prepared this season in numbers of new and perfectly lovely shades, inspired to a great extent by the autumn leaf tints, and also by the wonderful tones seen in various gems, such, for instance, as emerald and sapphire, ruby and amethyst. For the making of tea-gowns and

robes d'interieur generally, including those quaintly-named “rest gowns,” which seem to be more than ever necessary in these days of perpetual rush and hustle, these coloured velveteens are being largely used, and with a result which is exceedingly satisfactory. A very charming “rest gown,” for instance, is carried out in- leaf-green velveteen, and most ingeniously arranged in such a way that it needs only to be fastened in two places—first at the throat and then at the waist. In this way it can be slipped on easily and comfortably, when the wearer is tired, and without any of the usual worry of seeming multitudinous hooks and eyes, which at a critical moment will often refuse altogether to have anything to do with one another. Fichu folds of velveteen form the bodice, so cleverly contrived that they slightly overlap, and thus render any ordinary kind of fastening quite unnecessary in front. The soft folds which come from the right shoulder arc secured at the waist on the left side, under a large chon of satin ribbon, chosen in the same shade of green as the velveteen of which the gown is made, and finished with long ends which float away almost

to the hem of the skirt. The space between the fichu folds of velveteen is filled in with a chemisette of fine ecru Aleneon net, embroidered with small single sprays of flowers, and made up over a foundation of silver lace. The under-sleeves, which fit closely to the

arm from wrist to elbow, are of Alen.-on net over silver lace, while the upper sleeves, which hang loosely away from the arm, are of leaf-green velveteen bordered narrowly with chinchilla. Round the hem <rf the skirt there ia also a band of the same fur.

A Novel Coat and Skirt. A smart but simple walking costume, Arranged *wjth one of the new short skirts, may l»e seen in the accompanying illustration. The fabric chosen for this charming gown is one of the newest corduroy velveteens, while the colour is a soft and very becoming shade of vieux rose. Skunk, which is one of the favourite furs of the moment, is used to trim both the coat and the skirt, and makes a very effective contrast witll the soft vieux rose tint of the velveteen. The skirt, which is fairly full, is arranged at the back, just below the •waist, with a most ingeniously constructed little strap of velveteen, which by means of two buttons and buttonboles can be adjusted to various heights in such a way that it can raise the skirt for walking, and lower it again when the dress is wanted for wearing in the house. Near the horn there is a narrow band of skunk, which adds considerably to the smart effect of the gown. The coat, which is lined with soft white satin, is entirely novel in design, and although it has just a suggestion

or the l‘.i-i.in bhiii-e about it, the shape shown in oiu picture will be found more generally becoming than one which has the fulness drawn in under a bell, which (makes a straight line round the waist. Here again, ns well as al the wrists, a •bordering of skunk i' most cirerl'vely used. The skunk tic is frii-ht J *in a very pretty fashion, with a bow <.f fur at the back of the neck, while tiic large flat muff is bordered with a fringe of ■tails. 'lhe hat is of soft felt chosen in

a paler shade of Vieux rose, and trimmed round the crown with a band of skunk, finished in front with a small head. To complete this costume, there is a blouse of vieux rose Shantung eilk, very finely pleated, and trimmed down the centre of the front -with a hemstitched frill of the same silk. J* New Tunics and Shoulder Scarves. Among the most fascinating features ■of the present mode, at all events so far as dance gowns are concerned, must be reckoned those delightful tunics or overdresses, which a ft?*’made in various transparent fabrics, heavily embroidered, and destined primarily for wearing over

evening frocks in plain soft satin or in crepe de chine. Apart altogether from their decorative value, which is great, these tunics will also appeal to those who, like Mrs. John Gilpin of immortal memory, are blessed with frugal minds, since it is quite possible so to arrange matters that one and the same tunic

can lie worn at various times over totally dill’crent dresses, and always with a very successful result. livening frocks for young girls are being made in very dainty dewdrop net, lightly spangled with small crystals ami made up over ivory white soft satin. A pretty dress of this kind has quite a full skirl of dewdrop net, made short for dancing, and finished at the hem •with a gathered flounce of wide white satin ribbon, bordered along the top with

an insertion of fine silver lace. The bodice, which is draped, in fichu fashion, is drawn down' under a waistybelt of ■white satin ribbon, finished on one side with a big cluster of lilies of the valley,. Between the fichu folds, back and front, the space is filled in with a little chemi* sette of white chiffon veiled with silver lace. The short uleeves are of the dewdrop net, finished with a 'band of silver lace insertior-