Autumn Shirt Making.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLIV, Issue 10, 9 March 1910, Page 69

Autumn Shirt Making.

HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS FOR AMATEUR DRESSMAKERS. The woman who has once mastered the art of making her own tailored shirts is an object of envious admiration to

her friends. What the Americans have taught us to call “shirt waists” are among the many things that fit and wash better, wear longer, and often cost less if made at home. Much experience and a good pattern are, of course, the fundamental elements of success, and there are many women who, after a succession of failures, determine that their talents do not lie in the direction of the tailored shirt. One mistake the beginner is apt to make is that of cutting the material a little smaller than the pattern, instead of slightly bigger—on the principle that if it is too large it can be cut away, whereas if too small there is no possible remedy. The pattern should be pinned carefully on to the material so that there is no transverse pull which will spoil the set of the shirt. The grain of the material, and the stripe or pattern which is woven into it, should also be considered, and exactly the same amount of material allowed for tucks on either side of the front. A piece of cardboard marked with the depth of the tuck should be used continually when making the tucks, so that there may be no variation in their depth. The tucks are run up before tacking the pieces of the shirt together, with the exception of the long wide tuck which forms a kind of brace from the waist at the back to the waist in front, and which should be arranged after the shoulder seams have been joined, so that it may lie over the armhole at the top. The shirt in this case is made without any yoke at the back, like the model which is known as the Gibson shirt.

While the shoulder seam is joined up before making the tuck, the underarm seam is left' open, so that the front and back pieces of the blouse can be stretched out flat, and the tuck run along from end to end. Care must be taken not to stretch the material in any way, and the pins which are used to secure it should be put in across the tuck, so that they hold it in place without pulling it. Fitting the neckband is a severe trial to the beginner, who often scoops out too much on the top of the shoulder, and id then never afterwards able to make the neckband of her blouse stay inside her stock collar. It is better to cut out the neck of the shirt only when it is being fitted on the wearer. The’sleeves of the shirt, with its neat linked cuff and buttoned sleeve opening, is a matter which requires care and accuracy. The overlap must be sewn to the top side of the opening and the cuff made to button over it. The sleeve is then inserted into the cuff with a series of tiny pleat's or stroked gathers. In cutting out by a paper pattern, do not fail to make the notches where they are indicated. These will be found of immense service in making up, and in the caso.of the inexperienced dressmaker, will obviate a large amount of unpicking and rearranging.

This modri might be made of serg* in any pretty colour, and trimmed witft ■bands of contrasting material as silk, or more elaborately trimmed with soutache braid in some pretty design. This design is made with a box-pleated

simple for every day wear is shown here. This Mouse is made with a lining, and U closed at the flunk The two-seua

body .having either of two styles of sleeves in the full or Shorter length. The large collar, having the plain or scalloped outline, may be omitted as well as the shield. If the dress is made of heavy material the straight skirt would bo pleated, while for the softer materials the gathered skirt is more appropriate. „•» A pretty design for a blouse which may be developed for dressy wear or more

■ieeves may be made in the full or threequarter length.

Attached to a skirt in semi-Princesa style the model would be very appropriate for the blouse of a dress for every day'. For such general service the mohairs and serges are very practical, always looking well and being materials which do not get shabby with any ordinary wear.

The yoke of this dress might be made of tucked material, and one-half yard of tueked fabric eighteen inches wide would be required for the yoke-facing and collar. In addition to the unique-shaped yoke there is another especially attracive feature in the revers and cuffs. This model is equally desirable for a blouse for wear with separate skirts, and if for dressy occasions would be made

in satin, chiffon, or net; and as all of these come in such a variety of colours and shades, it is quite possible to match almost any colour. The well-dressed woman realises the importance of having her blouses blend well with her skirts, and most women prefer to have them match exactly. - Jt The schoolgirl's whole attitude towards life often reflects her young experience of dress. The world judges more by exteriors than by anything else, and there is no doubt that the youngest child is conscious of being better able to face the world when suitably clothed. The schoolgirl, more particularly, has critical companions to face, and it is hard to be placed at a disadvantage. Neither is there any excuse to-day for the parents, for all our big shops cater in the best and cheapest manner for the young girl’s wardrobe. Of course, simplicity should be the first essential in the choosing of garments for girls and children, and it is unwise to invest in a multiplicity of clothes, for they do not grow like their wearers, and fashions change at a surprising rate. To take hack to school two neat coats and skirts, ■with a fair proportion of shirts to wear with them, is most useful, and the best frock, with coat or cape to match, is a necessity, with, probably the Liberty satin or cashmere dress for dancing-class or evening festivities. For ordinary evening wear at school or at home the usual summer muslins or thin gowns of the past season can be utilised.