BACK AT RAROTONGA.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLIII, Issue 2, 14 July 1909, Page 59

BACK AT RAROTONGA.

On Sunday morning the ship was once more at anchor off Avarua, the principal village of Rarotonga. After attending Divine service, held on the quarterdeck by the chaplain (the Rev. G. G. McElroy, M.A.), his Excellency went ashore, and was taken for a drive by Mr. Blaine, registrar of the court, who in the absence of the Commissioner was in charge of the reception arrangements. A visit was paid to the mission school conducted by the Rev. P. H. Hall, of the LM.S, and his Excellency was much pleased with •the intelligence of the pupils. He give them a short address, in the course of which he reminded them that by working hard at their studies they were not only helping themselves, but helping their people as well. In addition to the “three *R’s,” the girls are taught sewing and the boys carpentry, etc.,' and though in the islands you won’t find the traders and the missionaries always seeing eye to eye, everybody speaks very highly of the work done at the school.

On board the day was passed very quietly, till after lunch the ship was besieged with visitors from the shore, who found something to wonder about at every turn they took. During the afternoon Lieutenant Longstaff, the Challenger’s navigator, took his instruments ashore to make some observations in connection with the variation of the compass, and as the result of his sights discovered an error of nearly two degrees in the present figures. Lieutenant Mack assisted in the observations. Official Landing.

On Monday his Excellency, in full diplomatic dress, accompanied by Captain Gathorne Hardy and Capt. Shannon in their striking uniforms, made his official landing at Rarotonga. As the steam pinnace moved off, a salute of 17 guns Was fired, every man stood to attention, and the crew of the cutter taking the ship’s officers ashore tossed their oars. At the palace of Makea, the aged Queen of the island, there was a guard of honotir of bluejackets, under Lieutenant W. B. Watkins Grubb, and the ship’s band, under Bandmaster Barnett. The Go-ernor was received at ths Steps of the palace. In answer to the Speeches of welcome, his Excellency explained that when he left England His Majesty King Edward VII. told him t© go among all the Maori people as well as the Europeans •nd assure them that the affection his mother, Queen Victoria, bore towards them he also bore. Difficulties had prevented him coming before, but he had been able to come at last, in the most powerful warship that had ever visited those waters—not to Show the might of England, but to show the affection she bore the people of the islands.

His Excellency’s speech was translated by Mr. Savage, Government interpreter, tvlio acted in that capacity daring the flay.

Seated on the verandah with Makea J'ore Colonel Gudgeon, Mrs. Gudgeon, the Misses Gudgeon, Mr. and Mrs. Stevenson, Mr. Blaine, the principal white inbabL

tants and the most important ar.kis (chiefs) of the island. The gifts at Rarotonga were mostly mats, and for some time there was quite a stream of messengers up the palace steps. As each bundle was deposited in front of his Excellency, the name of the donor was announced, and a few words of welcome were added. There was also a quantity of fruit and two fine "porkers, who subsequently found a very brief home on the ship. One was converted into pork, but the other evidently had suspiciousness about his surroundings, for after a short look round he made for the rail, and taking a header into the sea, struck out for his native country.

After the presentation of gifts, the booming of the drums announced the dancers. The dresses were very elaborate, but too civilised, and the effect was not nearly so picturesque as at the outly-

ing islands we visited. Still it was very well arranged, and had the rain not come and spoiled the show it would have been most enjoyable.

Makea Ariki, who is now in her sixtyeighth year, is a big woman, with a masterful face, reminiscent of pictures of George Eliot, and one can well understand the influence she exercises over her people. She did the honours very graciously, and took much interest in everything and everybody.

The Commissioner’s Luncheon. Afterwards Colonel Gudgeon gave a luncheon at the Whare Manuhiri (Strangers’ House), which was built by the Government, and is admirably managed by Mr. and Mrs. L. C. Grieves. At the' Official table, were his Excellency the Governor, Commander Luxmore, Rev. Mr Hutchin (head of the London Mission Society), Captain Gathorne Hardy, Mr Stevenson (Collector of Customs), Captain Shannon, Mr Blaine, Dr. Dawson, Staff-Surgeon Smith,

Mr Connal, Lieut- Grubb, Mr Reid, and Engineer-Commander Grant. Other guests were Mr Morrison, Surgeon Cherry, Mr Sharpe, Lieut. Pattinson, Mr Taylor, Sub-Lieutenant Cooper, Mr Savage, Mr Matthews, Rev. G. G. McElroy, Capt. Hoff, Lieut. Elwell, Mr Ambridge, Assistant-Pay-master Smith, Mr Wigmore, Mr Savage, and Mr Meßerney. A most elaborate menu of ten courses was served, and all manner of delicacies, unexpected in this distant corner, were met with. After the toast of the King had been honoured, his Excellency, in a brief speech, proposed the health of the host. Referring to the coming retirement of the Colonel, the Governor paid a very high tribute to the signally successful manner in which the affairs of the Islands had been administered during C«E»1. Gudgeon’s Commissionership. Colonel

Gudgeon was, said his Excellency, the finest specimen of one of the finest assets w’e had in the British Empire —a fair, honest, and impartial administrator. To appreciate the success of his term of office, they had only to contrast the present state of affairs with what they were when he came to the group. Ho had accomplished wonders, and in losing him the Cook Islands would suffer a great loss- His Excellency’s remarks were loudly applauded by the guests. Colonel Gudgeon said that he was astonished to find that he had lived to his time of life and not known that he was so virtuous. It was quite possible that he had made some mistakes during his term of office. He hoped he had. The man who had never made mistakes was a fool. But if he had made some mistakes he had never been ashamed of any of them. He was very much obliged for the hearty way in which his health had been honoured, and henceforth he would pose as a virtuous man on the strength of His Excellency’s eulogy.

Conference with the Native*. During the afternoon a conference was held at the Government Buildings, his Excellency hearing a number of matters which the natives wished looked into. The first question was the disputed succession at the village of Arorangi. Some of the representatives asked for the appointment of another Ariki in lieu of the one nominated by the Council.

His Excellency said he could not go behind the decision of the Council, whose ruling must be upheld.

On behalf of the natives Uritaua wanted to know why Colonel Gudgeon had been retired. They had heard it said certain people in Rarotonga were responsible for his removal, and it was the desire and wish of the Maori people that he should continue to live among them and be Commissioner.

Ilis Excellency explained that the Commissioner’s retirement was due solely to the operation of the law which provided that an official must retire when he reached a certain age. Colonel Gudgeon hoped the Maoris would give the new Commissioner the same support they had always accorded himself; not to judge him too hastily, and not to believe anything they heard or read, but to judge him as they found him.

During the afternoon the other guests amused themselves in various ways, wandering about the township, and some drove right round the island—twenty miles—on an excellent road.

The Commissioner, Mrs Gudgeon, and their two daughters, dined on board H.M.S. Challenger with his Excellency.

Royal Ball. In the evening His Excellency attended a ball given by Queen Makea in honour of the visit. Most of the officers of the ship attended, and everybody had a thoroughly enjoyable time in spite of the fact that the climate was more suited to sitting in a hammock imbibing something iced. Colonel and Mrs Gudgeon and the other Government officials and their wives were present, but the majority of the dancers were Rarotonga girls, who danced the European dances with much grace. His Excellency stayed till about 10 o’clock, but it was very much later when the rest of the visitors tumbled into their bunks, and there were rumours on board next morning of a small but energetic band which saw the affair out to “God Save the King,” came off in a shore boat “with the milk,” and had to be revived with the shijfs fire hose. Farewell. Next morning, shortly after daybreak, the Challenger weighed anchor, and everyone on board said farewell with unfeigned regret. His Excellency was particularly pleased with the magnificent manner in winch the people, both white and brown, entertained him, and he thoroughly enjoyed his cruise among their delightful islands.