AT AITUTAKI.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLIII, Issue 2, 14 July 1909, Page 58

AT AITUTAKI.

Next morning saw the Challenger at anchor off the island of Aitutaki, which is an atoll, and differs considerably from all other p'aees visited. The reef here describes a triangle about 21 miles round, with deep water inside—called the lagoon—and Aitutaki, four miles long, stands at the apex. Round the reef are scattered about eight small islands, and six low sand cays, upon which the sea breaks heavily. Opposite the reef are two boat channels leading up to a stone pier, back from which the village straggles along the beach—a shelving semi-circle of golden coral strand fringed by the beautiful yellow hybiscus and palm trees. His Excellency was received by Mr. J. C. Cameron, the Resident Agent, and escorted through a double row of dancers and warriors, who crossed their spears overhead as the procession walked up to the Government Buildings.

Legend of Rangi and Papa. The dancing took place on the road, bordered by cool green banana trees,

with the people, who number about 120®, crowding round, and making an apprecuu five audience.

The performers were most enthusiastic, and the dances were very similar to those his Excellency saw at the other islands', with the exception of the last, which told the story of the creation of the world, according to Maori the story of Rangi (the heavens) and Papa (the earth), a legend which ig common to all the Maori peoples. Forming a circle, the warriors began; a deep chant, with all their spears pointing to the centre, and with much realism they acted the lifting of the heavens from the earth —a herculean task, which was accomplished with the aid of the gods. Gradually and with a most convincing simulation of the weight of their burden, they at last succeeded in raising Rangi, their spear points getting higher at the end of each verse, till finally they pointed overhead, and a stentorian hymn of praise went up. The miracle was, in the legend, followed by ( the emanation of disagreeable odours, and to dispel these the aid was invoked of a band of women, who wafted them away with branches of leaves, to tha accompaniment of a song of prayer, the grand finale being a general chorus of thanksgiving in unison.

After lunch the guests wandered along the palm-bordered beach road, flanked by the native houses, and fraternised with the inhabitants, who pressed on them green cocoanuts to drink, oranges, and other fruit. Wherever one went one met with smiles and the hospitality which seems second nature to these! charming brown people. Subsequently there was a large presentation of gifts and fruit to his Excellency in front of the Government Buildings. The band came ashore later, and 100 men were allowed leave, much to ths delight of the people, who seemed to

fewgnhe kindred spirits in the rollicking, laughing Jack Tars. It was a comical sight to see the queer assortment of trophies and fruit the men took off to the ship.

.Landing with the hand, and marching at the head of the men in her collar of state, and led at the end of a chain by one of the seamen, was “Min,” Lieut. Grubb’s goat, the pet of the ship. Although referred to generally and familiarly as “the goat,” Min is in reality an aristocratic ibex from the island of Crete. Like her more plebeian relations, she has an appetite of a remarkable catholicity. Her customary daily menu includes half a dozen cigarettes—Turkish for preference—from sundry officers first tiling in the morning, a handful of tobacco from her owner’s pouch, as a sort of relish for her regular meal, after which she discusses any rope ends (tarry ones preferred), a few pages of any magazines left lying about by accident, any other unconsidered trifles she can unearth, and as soon as she sniffs the fact that the men are having their quotidian rum served out, she capers foriard, and has as many tots as her admirers care to stand treat. Unlike isome bipeds who share her taste for ardent spirits, Min never on any account mixes her drinks. If she starts on rum pt brandy, she sticks to Turn or brandy, or else goes on the water wagon for the (rest of the day in spite of the most coaxing efforts '' • '