The World of Fashion

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLI, Issue 26, 23 December 1908, Page 34

The World of Fashion

(By

MARGUERITE.)

For the 0101111:14, the country, and the sea, a uln.de series of models has been prepirred. Xi-vcr w,is variety greater; there is something to suit all tastes. Linen, batiste, <•<»'. ton. crepe de chine, Toile <le .limy, tussore, and foulard' are all worn. Linen ran now be obtained in us many shades as (loth. There is Nattier blue, lavender, mole and elephant greys, willow and Empire greens, reseda, rose and golden brown, to mention but a few of the fashionable* shades; while the variety of stripes and cheeks is infinite. There is. indeed, quite a rage for these “quadrilles.” most of t hem arranged with a band of plain material, which forms the trimming of the skirt. < harming linen tailor madrs are composed of coarse white linen with a coloured border and a little embroidery. ’The border forms the main trimming for the skirt and coat. 'l'hu embroidery, which is carried out in rather coarse linen thread, is of the colour of the band and white. The design, usually a bold conventional one of Howers, is so Arranged as to appear partly on the white and par tly on the- coloured linen. When it crosses the band of colour the white thread is employed, and where, the design is on linen coloured thread 3s used. (’oral pink, willow green, bine and lilac. and white lend themselves partien’arly well to this combination, while 4he costume may be further enriched by Incrustation- of lace.

Princess and other “whole-pieced” dresses that aye provided with a gnimpe in transparent material should always have this part of the dress made separately. They can be made in two ways, either with the gnimpe itself buttoning at the back and held down in its place by a couple of tapes back and front, or else with a simple three-piece batiste* bodice on which the gnimpe is mounted, and from which the. lining is cut away. This latter method is preferable, as it lends itself to the attachment of long transparent sleeves and permits of a. much more complicated gnimpe: tulle, tucked and gathered on the cross, laeo insertions and incrustations, etc. Quite a number of these guimpes should be in your wardrobe, both the simple and the ornate, for in this way the same gown may be made to serve on more or less dressy occasions. Let me turn to the important question of hats, gloves, neck ornaments, ami feet coverings. The fashions of these are. as usual, infinite, and they all depend on the other: if they clash, the. result is what the expressive Parisian (alls, “une salade extraordinaire.*’ The boots or shoes must match the gown, the gloves may be (’ream or yellow, the mil' must lone with the hat, and all the factors must harmonise both in cut and colour. A woman was recently seen in pale gold tussore, soutache, her shoes and stockings were in pale gold just like her frock, her neck ruff was pale gold tulle with a band of black

velvet, her hat was black crin trimmed with pale gold feathers, and her'’gloves were pale yellow, .rhe harmony was’ perfect, especially as she was a true blonde. The amount of Howers worn on the* high crowns of the hats is stupendous, and the price of them is necessarily in accordance, a fact which makes it impossible for the ordinary woman, whose purse has other ('alls on it than those attendant on la toilette, to have many changes in her head gear. Yet it is wise to buy good Howers and pay tiie price, for they neither fade nor get chi (Tone if care is taken, and the good Paris milliners will always them again on a new hat. just as the dressmakers will use old lace or good buttons. Concerning the Newest Blouses. In spite of the fact that the Princess style of gown seems to be ever more and more in the ascendant, the blouse still valiantly holds its own. Even in those cases where the upper part of the Princess robe develops into a pinafore bodice with shoulder straps and no sleeves, the. blouse in the abridged form of long sleeves and chemisette still plays a most important part in the toilette. It is of the blouse, however, in its original ami < omplete condition, that these notes are intended to treat at the moment, practically illustrated by the accompanying illustrations, where two very charming bodices of this kind an* to be; seen, both of them intended for afternoon wear.

Classical Coiffures. / The Psyche knot seems to accord bests with the classic mode in dress, hair is no longer dressed high but between the

nape of the neck and the crown. It is made into soft irregular waves, which seem most natural. Very wide hair dressing above the ears is the thing. Jjong coils of hair are to be twisted yound this Psyche knot. The large hats sot well over them cover them, but they are so big, that soon it will be no longer possiblt to wear them at the theatre, because there would not be room to be Bested side by side; and bunches of plumes, with every stem of a different colour, are among the newest things, sashes being knotted about all hats now. Jt Directoire Petticoats. To enable the gowns to ding in the style decreed by Dame Fashion great attention has been given to The new underskirts. Although these garments ar« non-existent ” in Paris,'we have made a compromise, and the result is an tin* <lerskirt which not only fits tightly .throughout its length, but lacks the flare at the hem which hitherto has been so fashionable. Some of the very newest and most practical underskirts are being made of ci'spc ■de Chine and louisine, the upper part of the skirt being unlined and the flounces finely pleated. These underskirts in crepe de Chine or fine soft silk, if of good quality material, are really economical, as they can be cleaned again and aagin. Many of the designs are finished off at

the hems with sets of tiny tucks or soft frills of chiffon applied in flat pleat*.

Extravagance runs to considerable lengths in the lingerie underskirts, but the actual designs are wonderfully simple. A little real lace inset by hand a few fine hand-tucks, motifs of dainty embroidery, and becoming cut and line ■being the distinguishing features, which no amount of machine applied trimming

can equal. Indeed, the Krencli lingerie underskirts. devoid of all trimming save u little tine hand embtoiTuy and embroidered scalloped edges .have grown constantly in favour. One of the most popular of all the undeisknts this season is the design with the camisole attached, made either in crepe de Chine, aoft washing silk, or fine muslin, finished at th© waistline with a hand of heading, through which is drawn soft silk ribbon.